A luxury scent where gemstones are the muse. Valeria Manini, Bulgari Fragrance Business Managing Director tells us about the latest addition.
Gorgeous, glittering gemstones, playing on the senses. However, it is not high jewellery we are talking about, but elegant luxurious fragrances. Bulgari’s latest offering of precious fragrances, this time for men, are inspired by gemstones. Echoing the first Le Gemme collection for women, this new perfumery collection revisits an entire aspect of ancient history following the precious stones and perfume roads that the great conquerors and luxury nomads of Antiquity discovered during their travels and conquests. Meaning it was only fitting that we were introduced to this journey through a trip on the Orient Express from Prague to Venice, snaking through the countryside and the Alps.
Valeria Manini, who has 25 years of professional experience in the luxury industry tells us about this new creation for the Bulgari Maison, and about how it shakes up the codes of luxury perfumes for men. The Business Managing Director, who has also been key to the launch of previous pillar fragrances for the brand, explains how in the same way as stone cutters reveal the beauty of gemstones with their skill, Jacques Cavallier has worked exceptional raw materials to the limits of the possible so as to exalt their richness and reveal them in a new, unexpected way.
What was the incentive behind creating a high perfumery collection for men?
The men were the incentive. There was nothing for them, so the objective was to cover a segment that didn’t exist.
How long did it take for the collection to be conceived and produced?
It took two years, but it benefitted from the previous research that had been made for the Le Gemme for women. It was a bit quicker for us as we already had all of the milestones for the product defined.
Why did you choose Jacques Cavallier to create the scent?
He is the master. Right now he really is the best person for the job.
What similarities and differences do you see between the male and female ranges?
Similarities are that every man and every women needs to express their own personality with luxury and not have something generic. The differences are that women are emotional and more intuitive in capturing the link between the gems and the scent, whereas men tend to be more analytic and want to understand how and why the concept and scent has been conceived.
How do you feel the colours and types of stones associate with smell?
We try to capture the vibe and colour of the gemstone with the fragrance, and recreate the similarity. For example a citrus scent. For women this would be paired with a citrine stone and for men the tiger eye, evoking the sun, the brightness, the energy. Colour is very important as it guides you in the research of the ingredients.
What are you favourite memories that are sparked by notable scents?
For me it is incense as it is the church and my childhood. I smell incense when I go to Asia and visit the temples, and also when I visit the Middle East. It is a scent that I can enjoy all over the world and it makes me feel very connected and brings me peace. It makes me feel comforted and reassured.
Which scent represents you best?
The iris flower, as I feel connected the vibe of the violet and the amythest colour of the flower.
What particular gemstones inspire you?
The amethyst, for its spirituality and wisdom.
Which do you see as the hero of the collection, particularly in the Middle East?
It will be a tough battle between the blue sapphire and the oud.
How challenging is it to make a collection of fragrances that is appreciated by consumers in different regions of the world?
The regions of the world aren’t the challenging part, because it is actually about the different masculine personalities. Wherever someone is living or has been brought up, the common trait is their feeling and personality. Whether someone is from China, Europe of the Middle East, if they are feminine, or nostalgic, or strong willed, they will share the same taste, wherever they are from.
Where do you see stepping into haute parfumerie for men leading to in the future for Bulgari?
I don’t have the answer just yet. For us it was already a big challenge, as to make men trust in a product is a big project in itself. So now we need to wait for the response to this collection, and then see what direction to take it in next.
By Eliza Scarborough
