4 Decades of Fashion- Giorgio Armani A name that echoes prowess and success

Lara Mansour   |   18-09-2015

 

Giorgio-Armani-at-work---Credit-Roger-Hutchings

Giorgio Armani at work – © Roger Hutchings

From fashion buyer to one of the most coveted fashion designers, entrepreneurs, and humanitarians in today’s world, Giorgio Armani’s empire can be traced back to his entry into the fashion world through the doors of a department store. In 1964, he began to work as a designer for Hitman, Nino Cerruti’s menswear line and from then on his ambition to go big and solo, came into objective. Since its launche in 1975, The Giorgio Armani Group has managed to become one of the leading fashion and luxury goods groups in the world today, with over 6,500 direct employees and 12 factories.

It designs, manufactures, distributes and retails fashion and lifestyle products, including apparel, accessories, eyewear, watches, jewellery, fragrances, cosmetics, furniture and home furnishings under a range of brand names: Giorgio Armani Privé, Giorgio Armani, Emporio Armani, Armani Collezioni, AJ | Armani Jeans, A/X Armani Exchange, Armani Junior and Armani/Casa. The Group’s exclusive distribution network comprises 2,203 directly-owned stores worldwide but still gave Giorgio Armani enough time and willpower to delve into humanitarian work, making him a UN Goodwill ambassador in 2002. His success as a fashion designer was always on the forefront, not forgetting that he became the first designer after Christian Dior to be featured on the cover of Time magazine. Of his many accolades, he was named Best International Designer in as early as the year 1983 by the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA), and received many honourary awards by the nation of Italy, Lifetime achievement awards, Man of the Year awards by GQ USA to name only a few. His style and collections have always been inspired by the city of Rome and its powerful and rich history.

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“As beautiful as the most sumptuous of sets, he says, it never ceases to enchant me. It is the city of a thousand films; a city that seduces the world, contributing to that sensual, sunny image for which Italy is known, and which characterises a style of life that has come to be generally perceived as the expression of a dream and of strong, positive values.”

A dominant element he is also very known for, is the colour Greige. Not Beige, but Greige. These two are very close in tone, but are not the same colour. As proven in his SS15 Haute Couture show which took us on a trip to Asia with its Bamboo inspired set and collection, Armani knows how to make spectacular garments out of such a demure shade.

The colour greige, which opens up a wealth of possibilities for a designer, matches the soft richness of the Armani style. A non-colour, greige is a special hue that is a cross between beige and grey.

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Armani Casa Exclusive Textiles by Rubelli 2014

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Armani Runway lab palette

“I love natural colours – including greige – because they offer tranquillity and serenity, and are a base to play with as you desire,” – says Giorgio Armani.

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The colour Greige – Armani’s signature style

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Giorgio Armani SS2015

“They are also a way to connect with other colours – and pair well with these. Greige is like a palette background. It’s something that remains constant, and on which to envisage other things.” Giorgio Armani’s collections have been exhibited around the world, in some of the most prestigious museums and galleries. Day by day, the value and significance of these archival pieces immensely grow, as Armani’s seasonal collections always welcome rave reviews from industry insiders.

The Power Suit

For the production of “Fair Game” in 2010, Giorgio Armani collaborated with costume designer Cindy Evans on select wardrobe looks for the Naomi Watts character, Valerie Plame Wilson.

The Giorgio Armani film fashions echo the real life Armani wardrobe of Valerie Plame Wilson. The costumes include classic Giorgio Armani skirt suits, as well as jacket and trouser ensembles.   In fact, Valerie Plame Wilson wore Giorgio Armani while the events depicted in the film were unfolding, particularly when she testified before Congress.

Naomi-Watts

“When I saw the photo of Valerie courageously testifying before Congress, I wanted to play a part in this project. To me, that exemplified a power suit moment. After meeting Naomi and Valerie in Cannes this year when the film was in competition, I was proud to be associated with and dressing these strong and stunning women.”

In the year 2013, Giorgio Armani collaborated with costume designer April Ferry to create the style and wardrobe for the character of Secretary Delacourt, played by Jodie Foster, in the futuristic film “Elysium.” Foster wears select Giorgio Armani suits throughout the film.

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“My real personal pleasure with ‘Elysium’ was to be given the honor of outfitting my longtime friend, Jodie Foster. She remains one of my favourite actresses. I admire her work, her talent, her life. In the film, I’m captivated by how she personifies the world of 2154 while also making my designs utterly timeless.”

Armani lent his signature style to director Joe Wright’s Hanna in 2011, outfitting Academy Award winner Cate Blanchett in select wardrobe for her pivotal role in the boldly original Focus Features adventure thriller, filmed on location in Europe and Morocco. Given Mr. Wright’s weaving elements of dark fairy tales into the story, his vision of Marissa as the Wicked Witch of the story meant that her colors would be red, for her hair, and green in her attire. Giorgio Armani discussed with costume designer Lucie Bates and Ms. Blanchett how to best achieve selected looks for the character. The resulting silhouettes included elegantly tailored suiting and a striking green-colored cashmere overcoat.

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“Working with Cate Blanchett, on and off the screen, has always been a highlight for me,” notes Mr. Armani. “She embodies the perfect combination of consummate actor and world-class fashion icon”

From runways to airlines, movie screens and Football fields

In 1991, Armani showed off his Italian pride by creating a wardrobe for Italy’s ALITALIA flying attendants. He also briefly gets a taste of interior design by designing the interiors of the Alitalia MD 11 aircraft, one year later. This passion will be revisited more than two decades later, in a global hub that would prove to be one of the fastest developing cities in the world. Until then, Armani would have solidified himself in the performing arts sector dressing members of Milan’s “Orchestra Verdi” in 1998, Ballet dancers for the Hamburg Ballet and the theatre cast of Il Barbiere Di Siviglia by Paisiello, amongst many others along the years.

Hollywood also witnessed the talent of Giorgio Armani as his signature style was front and center in Academy Award nominated director J.C. Chandor’s much anticipated film, “A Most Violent Year.” The film, starring acclaimed actor Oscar Isaac and two-time Academy Award nominated actress Jessica Chastain, is a searing crime drama set in New York City during the winter of 1981, statistically the most dangerous year in the city’s history. For the production, Giorgio Armani worked with director Chandor and esteemed costume designer Kasia Walicka-Maimone. Chastain and Walicka-Maimone traveled to Milan to visit the private, burgeoning Giorgio Armani archives. In addition to some contemporary looks clearly inspired by the 1980s, most of the pieces that were worn are well-preserved vintage garments from the same period.The Armani design team was very open minded to create new combinations of pieces from the archives and timeless pieces from more recent collections. The film team followed with an extensive search in U.S. and Europe for vintage Giorgio Armani casual pieces according to Kasia Walicka-Maimone.

Giorgio Armani has been on the forefront of creating wardrobe looks for major motion pictures since he pioneered the movement by dressing Richard Gere in “American Gigolo” in 1980. In 1994, he also entered the Sports world by designing the football jerseys of Italy’s National team for the World Cup. It wasn’t long until British players also grew aware of the designer’s knack for the sport, as the Football Association also signed him up to design the official off-field wardrobe for the England Football Team in a three year contract. Following Italy and England, Armani also created the clothing for the 2014 champion team of Germany’s Bundesliga and winners of the Champions League 2013 and the FIFA Club World Cup 2013, FC Bayern München. The wardrobe came from the Giorgio Armani Made to Measure Collection, and the all the garments were customised with a label stating: ‘Giorgio Armani for’, followed by the name of the wearer.

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Richard Gere on the Poster of American Gigolo dressed in Armani

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Vintage advertising from Spring Summer 1985 – © Aldo Fallai

Beyond fashion Entering the realm of hospitality

Giorgio Armani did just that as he ventured into the interior design industry in the year 2000. In addition to Armani Casa, his home furnishing division, Giorgio Armani Cosmetics also launched during the same year. “Over these years, my idea of style has always moved with the times, but without altering the key elements of my philosophy and my aesthetic,” he says. “My personal taste has remained the same as when I started, expressing a deep appreciation for all things simple and straightforward. However, my focus has always been on the future rather than the past, because I think we should always look forward.” Forward he looked, as he signed a contractual agreement with EMAAR hotels & Resorts LLC. foreseeing the opening of at least seven luxury hotels and three vacation resorts within the next ten years. Emaar is the property developer that inaugurated Burj Khalifa, the world’s tallest building and free-standing structure, as well as the Dubai Mall, the world’s largest shopping centre. In 2007, The “Armani Residence” is unveiled in Burj Dubai and three years later, world’s first Armani Hotel also opens its doors in Dubai. Every aspect of the hotel’s design and service offerings was designed and planned by Giorgio Armani, from the bespoke furnishings to restaurant menus and in-room amenities. “It has long been my dream to have a hotel in which I myself would like to stay and entertain family and friends, where the Armani aesthetic is combined with Italian-style warmth and hospitality,” says Giorgio Armani. Dedicating nearly five years to the project, Armani personally oversaw every aspect of the hotel’s design. The result is a property that feels bespoke, from the Eramosa stone floors, zebra wood paneling and fabric covered walls to the scents of the bath and spa accessories. Marking the designer’s first foray into the world of hospitality, the Armani Hotel Dubai brought to life the Stay with Armani philosophy, promising a “home-away from-home” experience.

The Armani Hotel Milano would become the second hotel to be launched within the Armani Hotels & Resorts project marking the continued collaboration with Emaar Properties PJSC. Interestingly, this Armani hotel, created within a palazzo, is shaped by the architectural ground plan as an immense “A”. This can be seen in the original Griffini drawings, and is something that is only visible from above.

An Armani restaurant, spa, business centre, lounge, and bar, all span across the 1,200 square metre area occupied by the hotel. Having mastered the art of fashion design, Giorgio Armani’s growing ambition was expected to have no limits. Introducing new concepts and projects year after year, the most recent being his first Emporio Armani Swiss made watch collection, the legend of Armani will see to it that no terrain is left unconquered.

 

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“What I have achieved and built in the last 40 years makes me very proud indeed. I managed to create a complete Armani lifestyle, which reflected my ideas and could be applied to a number of different areas, even outside of the fashion industry, such as interior design or hotels.” – Giorgio Armani

 

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