The perfect trouser suit is a secret wardrobe weapon with endless styling possibilities, and its impeccable tailoring is what Racil Chalhoub based her London-based concept line on. Launched in 2015, her contemporary tuxedos feature bold colourways and feminine silhouettes, making them a wardrobe essential for modern power dressers. Quite possibly the best masculine item women have ever made their own, founder and designer Racil reinvented the classic Le Smoking with a thoroughly modern eye, building her entire label around the tailored staple, complementing the multi-coloured jackets with silk slip dresses, cotton shirts and cigarette trousers.
Racil Chalhoub was born in Beirut, grew up in Paris, and is now based in London, where she launched her eponymous label. Before that, she ran a unique fashion concept store and organic cafe, nestled in an authentic Lebanese house in the artsy district of Gemmayze, where she started her career in fashion as a buyer for 8 years, closely observing what women want.
In an exclusive interview, we caught up with Racil to find out how she became what she wanted to be, why the tuxedo remains a perennial wardrobe item, and what’s next for the growing label.
What inspired you to become a designer and launch Racil?
I studied Fashion Design & Marketing in London but wasn’t ready to start designing when I graduated, so I moved to Beirut and opened the first concept store in the region with my childhood best friend, a boutique, café and bakery under the roof of an authentic Lebanese house. That was my first adventure, I ran the fashion side of ‘Kitsch’, did all the buying, merchandising and dealt closely with clients for 8 years until I felt that I hit a crossroad in my career. I needed something new and had the itch to start designing, which is what I always wanted to do. As soon as I felt ready, I moved back to London full time, and focused on launching my brand.
‘In a tuxedo you are neither exposed as overdressed nor underdressed.’- Racil Chalhoub
When did you first realise that you wanted to be a fashion designer?
I have always dreamt of becoming a fashion designer ever since I was 10 years old, when my mother took me to a fashion show in Paris.
Tell us about the process behind launching your own label?
I was living between Beirut and London at the time. I moved back to London full time and took a year to figure everything out. There is so much to do, such as setting up a company and all the legal paperwork. I then put together my inspirations and moodboards, worked on my brand identity, did all the drawings for my first collection, as well as all the research in order to find suppliers and manufacturers. I made a list and took it one step at a time. I then launched Racil 14 months later in Paris.
Why did you choose to focus on tailoring and tuxedos?
It was a ‘want’. I have always been a fan of tailored jackets, and even like wearing them over a long boho dress. I owned so many black blazers and felt like a Tuxedo would be a great upgrade. When I couldn’t find one that fitted me and my lifestyle, as everything was either too androgynous, not feminine enough, or too corporate, I decided to create it and a whole world around it.
Do you feel that your upbringing across different countries has influenced your designs and helped you create an individual brand?
I feel very lucky to have lived in different cities, it gives you a great richness, but I don’t think it has necessarily influenced my designs per se. Paris gave me that passion for fashion and elegance, Beirut gave me my core ethics, and London taught me that fashion rules are made to be broken! So, I guess I did pick up something from each city.
Why did you settle on London as your base for Racil?
I was already living between Beirut and London, but really felt like I needed to be in Europe or the US to do this. I had my flat in London where I always felt at home, so it felt natural to come back here to start my brand. I was thinking of moving to New York for a hot minute, but then it would have been too much ‘new’ to deal with at once, a new city, new work, and new friends.
Who is the Racil woman?
She is one hell of a woman! The Racil woman can be 22 or 82 but she likes to live life to the fullest, she is confident and elegant above all. She is playful and a little daring too.
What is your bestseller?
My signature Tuxedo jacket in black double-breasted with shawl lapel.
What sets a Racil tuxedo apart from others on the market?
It has flair and is easy to wear. It can be worn in the day with trainers and a t-shirt, or in the evening dressed up with heels and some earrings. It is very versatile.
Tell us about your typical day and the design process at Racil?
I wake up at 6.45, and scroll through my phone before jumping out of bed. I make my first cup of coffee, answer urgent emails, and try to squeeze in a workout before heading out to the studio.
Once I am there I hardly leave during the day. I sit with development and production, and then with my studio and sales manager. Depending on what stage of the season we are at, I will spend more time with one side of the team. When it is design time, I normally lock myself up at home for days and put together my new concept, pick fabrics, and do all my drawings from my dining room table- turned desk.
Do you have a favourite moment in the process?
I must say I enjoy the full process, although I love creating the designs and seeing them come together the most. The design and development process can be a long one, so it is so exciting to see a drawing come to life when the first samples arrive.
What is your secret to switching off and relaxing?
That’s a tough one. I find it very difficult to switch off to be perfectly honest. In London I will switch my phone off and go for a long walk in Hyde park, otherwise I actually need to get out of the city for a couple of days.
What is key to keeping your tuxedos modern when designing them?
A lot of attention to detail, and a comfortable fit.
Can you share with us the inspirations behind your current SS18 collection?
I took a trip to Japan last year and that was the main inspiration for SS18, entitled ‘Memories of Gion’.
Is there one piece that is a favourite, or you are particularly proud of?
My Tuxedo jacket. I am happy to have created a signature product that women want to get multiples of.
What drives and motivates you to design each new collection?
I love what I do! So definitely passion, but also my customers! When someone tells me they love a piece they bought, it makes me want to keep giving them more and better each season. I am always so thrilled when I see a woman in clothes I designed, or when they tell me how great they felt in one of my outfits.
Can you share with us your career highlights so far?
Launching the brand in 2015, and then seeing a rail with my name on it in some of my favourite stores worldwide.
Who have you been most excited to see wearing your clothes, and who would you like to see wearing them?
Women on the street, women I don’t know. It always makes me so happy because I know they loved the piece and chose to wear it. That means the world to me. I would love to see Bianca Jagger and Iris Apfel in my clothes.
How would you describe your personal style?
Sophisticated, bohemian, and a little daring.
What is your failsafe outfit?
Jeans, a white t-shirt and a black Tuxedo jacket, and if at night I add large earrings.
Do you go for heels or flats?
Flats in the day, and heels at night.
Have you got a style muse?
Bianca Jagger and my mother!
To what extent is your personal taste and style reflected in Racil?
It is very much present. I am a woman designing for women, and couldn’t create anything that I don’t love or wouldn’t wear.
How should women approach tailoring, and should every woman have a tuxedo in her wardrobe?
Absolutely! In a tuxedo you are never under-dressed nor over-dressed. It is such a fail-proof outfit, and can carry you from day to night so easily. It is also so versatile, meaning you can get so many different wears out of it.
What are your styling tips for women when they wear tuxedos?
Less is more. Just wear it and own the room when you walk in! Don’t be afraid to dress it up or down, and also mix it with other pieces in your wardrobe. Your Tuxedo jacket is meant to become your bestie.
How do you feel your brand has evolved since its launch?
It has evolved quite a lot. It went from being a capsule of 20 mostly black pieces, to a collection of about 80 to 100 different items in different colours and fabrications. We have also added dresses for the odd night where you want to hang your Tuxedo jacket up, and accessories too.
What is the secret to a successful label?
I am not sure. Focus, discipline, and determination I would say.
What can we expect from the next chapter of Racil?
That is a surprise. There are many more chapters to come…
By Eliza Scarborough
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