Cruise 2019 shows brought a playful and creative mood to the runway. Sixties vibes, loose layering, relaxed denim and nautical inspirations were everything you need for a stylish summer getaway.
CHRISTIAN DIOR
CHRISTIAN DIOR
Christian Dior’s cruise show was held at the town of Chantilly, just three hours outside of Paris. The town has links to the French equestrian tradition and this was reflected in the show which was opened with a performance by Mexican female horse riders The Escaramuzas.
These women riders have claimed the right to participate in the charreada – an equestrian practice of performing several challenging routines before a crowd – just as the male riders do.
And it was these strong, inspiring women and the costumes they wear, that were the basis of Maria Grazia Chiuri’s Cruise collection. While the rain came down heavily it failed to stop the show, and models walked the runway through a storm, making for striking images.
Maria interpreted the traditional dress of the Escaramuzas in a modern way. Extravagant skirts were paired with fitted jackets. Waists were clinched to create a strong hourglass shape. Tulle gowns were layered with blazers and utility trousers and jackets were juxtaposed with ruffles and laser cut lace. Prints featured the image of the Amazon, a mythological beauty from antiquity. While the inspiration of this collection was unique, it was undoubtedly Dior with a feminine silhouette and magical feel.
Accessories came in the form of riding boots, large brimmed hats (created by Stephan Jones), and skinny ties. There was also the comeback of the Saddle bag, as redesigned by Maria Grazia Chiuri.
The collection is created using different materials, including the great French classic ‘toile de Jouy’, which has been revisited and modernised, its picturesque scenes featuring the introduction of a series of wild animals, including tigers and serpents. Lace was prominent and set off by black rubber boots that contrast with the more contemporary elements.
LOUIS VUITTON
Located in South Eastern France, the Foundation Maeght, a private art foundation in Saint Paul de Vence was the chosen location for Nicolas Ghesquière’s Louis Vuitton’s Cruise collection presentation.
This collection was a celebration of eccentric ways of dressing, assembling outfits that were unconventional by pairing unusual matches together to create unique ensembles. Models meandered through sculptures created by Joan Miró for the Sixties-era and the runway collection mirrored the works of art.
Futuristic but with a nod to the 1960’s. Clothes were loose-fitting and layered. Comfort met style with angular shoulders, clashing prints and layered feathers, combined with loose fitting floaty silhouettes and fabrics.
There were variations on key pieces from the spring 2018 collection including puff-sleeved tunics, Botticelli gowns and silky shorts of the latter embellished with lace trims.
What was interesting was the layering and unusual pairings. Sequined jackets were worn with silky shorts, heavy biker jackets were paired with light floaty dresses, and feathered tops worn with boudoir-style shorts. This collection was one for the masses.
Whether you choose to wear it mismatched as it was styled in the show or take individual pieces, what was interesting was the wearability.
The show also celebrated the brand’s collaboration with Grace Coddington. The writer and editor is known for her love of animals, and particularly cats. For Louis Vuitton she has created a line of accessories featuring a playful sketch of her favourite animal.
GUCCI
Reportedly inspired by ‘the idea of death,’ Alessandro Michele put on a theatrical show, at the Promenade Des Alyscamps; France’s oldest Roman necropolis in the southern city of Arles. The creative director chose late evening for the show using smoke, candles and fire to create a truly spooky atmosphere.
The eerie show featured a total of 114 looks for men and women, with so many aspects to them, if you blinked you missed something crucial! This collection ranged from costumes inspired by fantasy characters of the 19th century to outfits fit for a 1980’s rock band, and everything in between.
Prints came in the form of plaid, florals, paisley, animal and even geometric. While the colour palette ranged from soft pastel hues to deep reds and browns. Fabrics included brushed velvet, silks, fur, cotton and leather while outfits were set off with sequins and embellishment. Capes, veils and trains brought drama to the looks.
Amongst the chaos were references to the local history. Including some of the city’s former names. While some outfits featured verse by Italian poet Dante Alighieri, one of the artists to take inspiration from the Alyscamps.
Taking the collection apart there were key staples that could work well paired trousers or jeans, while the statement pieces will surely be saved for the red carpet.
PRADA
This was Prada’s first show in New York and the second Cruise offering from the brand. A location chosen for its cosmopolitan and mix of styles. Something that was reflected in Miuccia Prada’s designs.
Miuccia Prada never short of attitude, embraced the nineties in full force for this collection. Designs were reminiscent of the iconic Glen Luchford’s Prada featuring Amber Valettaa; introducing a series of short-sleeved turtlenecks, narrow-waisted silhouettes and heavy gauge tights. Mismatched prints, leather fabrics, layering, and carefree dressing brought to life the image of Miuccia’s Prada woman.
The designer also showcased a new logo; unveiling a new seventies-inspired motif which was printed onto cotton and leather t-shirts, polo tops and strappy vests. The logo was printed in a graffiti style, giving a street-wear feel to the pieces.
Rather bizarrely oversized ushanka hats were the must-have accessory of the show, looking more autumn/winter than cruise while belts were worn low on the waist and oversized necklaces thrown over cosy knits.
CHANEL
Karl Lagerfeld’s 2018 Cruise collection mimicked that of a real life cruise. Taking place on a custom-built life-size cruise ship inside the legendary Grand Palais, the La Pausa liner provided the destination for the show and after party.
There is a focus on travelling comfortably and in style, wearing soft cotton fabrics, tweed suits, and a chic silhouette that’s classy and understated.
Inspiration is taken from sailors (hence the fitting show space), with stripes layered over white blouses, prints of boats and shark’s teeth, porthole motifs, and waves created by aqua sequinned embroideries.
From tweed to silk to chiffon, all the fabrics come with a lightness about them, floaty yet warming as appropriate for a sea breeze. Tweed dresses are narrow and short while the iconic Chanel jacket becomes a blazer-dress and is finished with La Pausa stamp.
Pleats are constant throughout the collection while waists are accentuated and finished with smocking. Long, lightweight cotton coats are embroidered with multi-coloured threads and trousers come in the form of Capri pants or carrot-leg.
Accessories come in the form of oversized round sunglasses, berets, fingerless gloves and beaded belts. While the BOY Chanel becomes a satchel and the Gabrielle bag is adorned with exotic leather in sunset hues. The new Chanel 31 bag comes in silver leather or as a small two-tone clutch.
This collection creates a story. An image of celebration and excitement on-board a cruise liner, and every part of the collection was designed to generate this.
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