Elie Saab’s new Madison Avenue store opens in 2017 in New York so it seemed fitting that the house based the new couture collection around the Big Apple. There were sirens and horns blaring on the sound system; energy, hope, magnetism and an intoxicating skyline. Alluring and accentuated femininity reveal the influence of mid-century silhouettes, from an era when European style fused with the city’s melting pot and its fast-paced essence and edge. Elie Saab also made an effort to inject youthfulness into his aesthetic. He showed a handful of mommy-and-me dresses, the little girls’ frocks every bit as lavishly detailed as the women’s.
Draping and luxurious details of embroidery, plumage and fur suggest a gala of festive opulence, signed by exceptional savoir-faire. They evoke moments in a city’s rhythm when the sky lights up with energy and the streets with elegance, as evening begins to descend.
Contrasts of nature and industry, skyscraper heights and human streets, appear throughout the collection. Architectural structures are embroidered, beaded and printed upon gentle yet generous forms whilst birds alight across the collection – uplifting nature’s presence in the city, a sense of freedom, and an invitation to dream.
Silhouettes were striking – powerful and assuming. Rounded shoulders descend along slim bodices to skim body contours or lead to expressive, voluminous skirts while separates speak to a more urban ambition. Birds flocked on the skirt of a gown with a black velvet bodice; hearts appeared as prints and as crystal embroideries. And there were all manner of flowers—picked out in yellow, light blue, bordeaux, and black beads on tulle; embroidered in 3-D on Chantilly lace; and appliquéd in watercolour silk on another graceful gown.
A colour palette of rose, plum, beige and jasmine contrast shades of blue, cobalt and black to paint the city landscape against sky. Elaborately wrought jewelled necklaces, belts, bracelets and brooches add drama and emotion. Bags, clutches and shoes in precious skins are adorned with bird motifs embroidered in metal, organza and lambskin.
Viewed from outside toward the city skyline, or from within looking up to the dramatic heights and bright lights, as well as the infinite human perspectives inside, each angle speaks of positive modernism in a hymn to Old New York.
