Corneliani is something of a rarity in the fashion industry, in that it is set up in such a way that it does not have a conventional creative director, and instead has the visionary Stefano Gaudioso at the helm as General Merchandising Manager and Style Director. As such, Stefano increasingly finds himself in a supervisory role overseeing the company’s operations and creative direction from top to bottom, facilitating the work of others.
Born in Milan in 1973, Stefano is a man who grew up around the kind of sartorial elegance Corneliani is famous for. From an early age, he cultivated a passion for the fashion industry largely down to his grandparents’ fur atelier in the centre of the city, where he spent many a long afternoon after school, observing the craftsmanship of the tailors, getting inspiration from the designers and, without knowing it at the time, gaining a head-start on the development of his future career.
Then, at the age of 22 he joined the Ermenegildo Zegna Group, handling different roles, from sales to brand management during his 15-year tenure, before finally taking the lead of product development and merchandising. In this last role, he struck the right balance between his creative skills and business acumen, before being appointed at Corneliani in September of 2016.
Rich in heritage, Corneliani was set up in Mantua in the 1930s by Alfredo Corneliani, a pioneer in the Italian menswear sector, making raincoats and overcoats. Production was halted due to the start of the second World War, until Alfredo’s sons Claudio and Carlalberto went on to reintroduce the company in 1958, growing it to become the brand it is today. Here, we talk to Stefano about the growth of global fashion, balancing the values of tradition and quality with current trends, and his future strategy.
When did you first realise that you wanted to have a career in fashion?
I was born in Milan in the 70’s and part of my family was already active in the fashion industry.
I don’t think I realised by then that this would have been my path, but it certainly influenced my choices. I started working properly in fashion by the time I was 20 years old and I immediately had the feeling of being in my natural environment. I love the fact that my job is never boring, and there is both a creative side and an analytical side.
What brought you to Corneliani?
The brand has a fantastic heritage and an elegance which has been built over the past 60 years. Investcorp asked us to build the future of Corneliani and we are touching on every single element, with a new digital platform, new store concept, new corporate ID, and of course a new energy in the product development.
Who is the Corneliani man?
He is both refined, sophisticated, and cultured, he knows what’s going on. He has a sensitivity for beauty and authenticity, he’s connected, and he’s spending money to live an experience, not just to own a product.
How do you set yourself apart from other leading brands in the market?
We don’t want to just sell a product, instead wanting to sell an experience. Every single aspect of the brand has a purpose, we aim to become the curators of Italian sophistication.
Tell us about your role, and what it entails?
My role and how it is designed is not so common for our industry. I’m the Style Director but at the same time I’m also the General Merchandising Manager. This means that I have ownership of the creative aspects of the job, but on the other side I need to be very analytical and aware of the competition. I have a great team supporting me with both roles, Style and Merchandising. We analyse everything, and we do a quantitative briefing containing all the numbers, complexity, target price and positioning. At the same time, we are creating, designing, and developing all projects. It is really exhausting but very rewarding at the same time.
How balanced are the creative and business sides of your role, and which area do you prefer?
It is really a 50/50 balance, in terms of time and in terms of preference.
Do you feel that all your experience has prepared you for your current role?
Absolutely, my 24 years’ worth of experience in the industry has given me a very broad vision of this world.
Tell us about how you introduced new logos, new packaging, and a new e-commerce site, what was the catalyst for this?
Everything has a unique purpose. We aim to shift our brand perception to an experiential one and less product driven.
Do you feel the rebranding has allowed you to introduce a new cliental?
Absolutely, we have created it in a way that it is open to new clientele as well as allowing us to keep our loyal existing ones.
Tell us more about how you ensure that you continue satisfying your loyal client base, while encouraging new customers?
Staying true to our roots whilst always striving for advancements of our product, through conducting the right research and striving for innovation.
Tell us how you balance the heritage of the brand with modernity?
We always try to put all our sartorial knowhow into every category. Hybridisation between sartorial and sportswear, together with new technology on formal fabric and new constructions on sportswear. Mixing all elements is the name of the game.
To you, what is key to the design process at Corneliani to ensure the best outcome?
A good collection plan and a good selection of the colour cards is already 50% of the job, so the starting point is maybe the most important part of the process.
Does the sudden expansion of global markets mean that the brand’s style is being driven in a certain direction?
I would say no, we are an Italian brand with a great history and we will continue to promote our Italian style and the elegance and sophistication that we have in our DNA.
Which region do you think is the most stylish?
Japan and Korea are certainly two of the most elegant and sophisticated countries.
Do you enjoy travelling, and where in the world do you feel most inspired?
New York remains one of my favourite cities. The energy and the people are amazing!
To you, what is elegance and luxury, do they work hand in hand together?
Yes, they do work hand in hand, but I must clarify that elegance is something you cannot buy, it is innate. As for time, it is the ultimate luxury.
Tell us about your personal style?
Very simple and clean. Less is more for myself.
Who is your style icon?
Gianni Agnelli, the most successful and elegant Italian entrepreneur.
What is your biggest luxury?
My biggest luxury is having the time to do things that I like to do, without any obligations, which is really rare nowadays.
Although you have already introduced many changes to the brand, what else can we look forward to seeing next?
Until recently we have been working on many new projects, and the market will see the result of this work in the next 12 months. Following from here, the objective is to continue to train our team in order to become an experiential brand in terms of shopping experience, communication, and digital approach.
By Eliza Scarborough
