The Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer show had a decidedly un- Spring/Summer feel to it. There were black blazer jackets, heavy leather biker jackets (some with shearling lining), oversize trench coats belted tightly at the waist and thick intarsia knitwear.
The only real hint at the warmer season was a romantic white cotton tunic and trouser set with broderie anglaise edging and a lace sleeveless tank top that was styled with Prince of Wales check pants. However, to present a seasonally appropriate collection did not seem to be Sarah Burton’s concern, rather a harmonious overlap of her menswear with her last womenswear collection, which was a dark, pagan journey inspired by the dreamy energy of Iceland.
The collection started regularly enough, with a collection of top coats and suits, but was quickly mixed up with heavy leather jackets, bright red accents and unconventional layering. There were Icelandic inspired Fairisle knits, pagan necklaces and roughly tied rope belts.
The collection went from strength to strength as it progressed, culminating in a series of top coats made of beautifully draped silk fringing and one with a glittering crystal embroidered motif of a tree with more of a couture edge than ready-to-wear. A stunning union of the male and female collections.
