The Spring-Summer 2018 Berluti collection was inspired by a photo by Erwin Blumenfeld. The acclaimed American-German photographer was famous for his experimental double-exposures and reworking of colours until they morphed into abstract delights. He was unique in his ability to nuance colours, creating subtle new hues of “gorge de pigeon“, “rose grisé” and “ambre acides,” combining them with a delicate artistry that Cecil Beaton described as “infinitely touching.”
This Berluti collection was the story of a reinvented palette where traditional summer hues were seen through a modern and dynamic lens. The perfecto has been refined thanks to an icy blue or milky white bonded leather lining. The raw seam finishes were softened by colouring the hems, a technique that brings to mind the leather savoir-faire of the Maison. For this season, the bomber jacket was made of Ottoman leather.The light cashmere coats were seen in a variety of cool colours to wear for summer. Silk punctuated all of the silhouettes: a jersey silk tank top, the lining of a jogging pant or a silky band on a trouser. Haider Ackermann played with the codes of the materials and twisted the casual pieces.
Bags took their inspiration from a sensual desire for tactility. A tote bag in double-faced leather was black on the outside and dove-grey on the inside, while a day bag could transform into a weekend bag thanks to its adaptable volume. Its strap looked like an alligator belt with a soft nubuck touch.
In reference to the emblematic Alessandro Oxford shoe, it took the form of a soft nubuck flat slipper made of one single piece of leather, while boots featured a lower cut than previous seasons. The patination of the footwear palette was both a continuation of the Maison’s heritage and an ode to Blumenfeld’s experimental techniques.
