Wedding Day Style: The Groom’s Glossary

Lara Mansour   |   15-05-2017

While the focus of a wedding remains traditionally, and quite rightly, on the bride, she’s not the only one under pressure to look their best on the big day.

The challenges faced by the groom are threefold, firstly he must set the tone of the dress code, doing so while still managing to stand out among his party, yet thirdly, and most importantly, he must not upstage the bride.

The dress code chosen for a wedding plays a crucial part in determining the level of formality, and, in turn, the general mood of the ceremony. So, here we have put together a definitive guide to wedding dress codes, to ensure you are looking dapper on your wedding day.

Morning Dress

This is the most formal Western dress code for daytime wear. You will be wearing a single-breasted, one-button wool morning coat in black, grey striped or hound’s-tooth check trousers, and a single-breasted linen or double-breasted wool waistcoat, depending on the season. There is no regulation on tie colour, but softer tones are preferable. There is no scope for experimentation here, follow the rules to the letter and employ a good tailor.

Black Tie

A common choice for formal weddings taking place in the late afternoon or early evening. This is a formal dress code, yet still offers some flexibility when compared to morning dress. Experiment with different cuts and fabrics of the dinner jacket, or try satin or silk lapels. Trousers should be matching trousers with braiding or a grosgrain trim on the outside leg. A hand tied bow tie is preferable, so if you need help mastering the art of tying it, head to YouTube for a video tutorial.

Lounge Suits

Otherwise known as ‘day suits’ or ‘semi-formal’, this popular dress code requires that male guests attend the ceremony in smart business suits. With less formal dress codes it becomes increasingly important to consider the setting and context. Roughly speaking, opt for modern in the city, and traditional in the country. However, remember that while a semi-formal dress code allows the groom the opportunity to experiment with colour, pattern, fabric and cut, this is not a privilege that necessarily extends to male guests.

Beach Formal

A dress code usually used at weddings taking place in warmer climes, beach formal implies a smart-casual dress code but with an emphasis on lightweight fabrics and neutral tones. Choose a linen suit or suit separates, a linen shirt, and loafers. Ties are optional, and there is something particularly romantic about this spontaneity, however it doesn’t mean scruffy.

And…. For the Guests

With such a well-dressed groom, it’s important that the guests follow suit, and here are our top rules to keep you on track.

Consider the Context

Style is a function of the outfit versus the situation. What works in a downtown registry office is unlikely to look ideal in the country, so dress appropriately.

Smarten Up

Pay the bride and groom the compliment of making an effort. Plan ahead to ensure that your suit is well pressed and spotlessly clean, your shirt is ironed and your shoes are polished.

Check the Weather

If you aim to look good at a summer wedding then some advance warning about the weather will be invaluable. Of course, you will be aware that an umbrella is useful in the rain, but you may also want to consider whether suede shoes will work well in the wet.

Conform with Codes

If the invitation asks that men wear a dinner jacket, then that is what you’re expected to wear, so don’t go off piste. The reason James Bond is a style icon is that he wears his tuxedo straight up and unadulterated.

Suit Up

We are advocates of wearing separates, rather than suits. However, separates are less formal than suits and unless the invitation contains the word casual, they’re inappropriate for a wedding.

Keep Cool

Fabric makes far more difference than colour when you are in the heat, so we suggest you wear a 100% linen suit, with a 100% linen shirt underneath. It may seem counterintuitive but you’ll be more comfortable wearing fine cotton socks than if you go sockless.

By Eliza Scarborough