There were no points for guessing the era that influenced Giambattista Valli’s SS19 collection, with a mellow soundtrack by John Lennon it was easy to recognise that it was the seventies inspired this boho glam collection.
But it was quite a different approach for the Roman designer who added many casual looks and even masculine suits to his usual catalogue of feminine dresses. Opening with monochrome tuxedo style suits, the designer set the tone for the collection which, like many other houses this season, recognised the blurring lines between masculine and feminine dressing.
This was followed by utility wear (yes, that’s right) and black and white day dresses. Animal print was very prominent in the collection too – with a pair of velvet leopard print trousers being a very unexpected addition. There was a rock and roll theme, with flared leg trousers and embellished vests, as well as fringed jackets and studded trousers.
The colour palette was varied. While white was the basis for many of the looks, there were bohemian multicoloured gowns, and clashing colours and prints which contrasted with the darker more severe colourways. Lace came in either black or white, while prints had a bold seventies influence.
No decade was more diverse than the seventies, and that was highlighted by Valli’s designs as he moved from rock and roll to bohemian princess. Long floral printed dresses glided down the runway created in soft chiffon and lace. Of course then came the tulle. A vast selection of white day dresses all encased in layers of lace and tulle highlighted the feminine elements of this generation. The embroideries were exquisite, with fully embroidered dresses and two-piece embroidered suits making a real statement. As the collection went on, it became more typically Giambattista Valli, with ethereal drop hem dresses, floral prints and elegant evening gowns, but there is no doubt this collection highlights the every changing trends in ready-to-wear. Something that has been very much a talking point this season.