Schiaparelli’s Bertrand Guyon calls on sensuality.
The makings of Bertrand Guyon for Schiaparelli Couture collection presented a streamline of white tailoring and feminine gowns. As usual Schiaparelli’s eccentric direction is extreme, heavy embroidery, drop-down earrings—long tulle gloves and a neutral face. A polka dot midnight dress with a strapless cut and a pleated bottom was especially striking.
The “Shocking Society” collection debuted several evening gowns that exhibited similar long fluid silhouettes, along with jackets with a hint of Picasso patchwork paired with a silk-chiffon skirt and flat boots. This year’s theme gave Guyon a lot to play with, from a collared Swarovski sequins dress with white chiffon sleeves, to a floor-dusting gown in shocking pink.
“Calling on sensuality, merging intensity and freshness. A new femininity gives life to a strong yet delicate personality,” as stated in the show’s notes; Guyon explored the Elsa-ism in a light touch, as he used transparency for both opulence and simplicity. Astrological prints are known to be dear to Schiaparelli, as they appeared on leather jumpsuits, mini collared dresses and bustiers; and the closing gown in delicate white was super lovely, with layers of chiffon and a beaded belt to accentuates the waist and give it a subtle shine.
