LFW AW17: Mary Katrantzou

Natalie Hanson   |   20-02-2017

For her AW17 collection, shown yesterday in the concrete chamber of Tate Modern’s Turbine Hall, Mary Katrantzou collaborated with Disney to bring us a ‘Fantasia’ inspired show full of magical imagination.

Fantasia was a ground-breaking film when it was first released in the 1940s as it was the first film to be presented in glorious technicolour; much like Katrantzou when she first burst onto the scene manipulating colours and prints in new digital ways. Perhaps that’s where she first found the connection that inspired this season’s theme. Over time, Katrantzou has been forced to bend to the will of more commercial offerings, however, now she has proved herself as wearable, maybe this the beginnings of a return to her origins as a more radical and exuberant designer.

In line with the musical tones of the film, the Royal Philharmonic Orchestra played in the corner. They played ‘Time’ by Hans Zimmer, also recognisable as the music used in the film ‘Inception,’ a piece that Katrantzou herself has an emotional connection with, saying backstage ‘I always cry when I hear it.’

Fantasia was a surreal cartoon animation, and this was represented through colourful flowing prints and embroideries mimicking soundwaves. There were sugary pastel colours used on fur collars and cartoony surreal landscapes depicted throughout. Tessellated swans were used to create an eye-catching geo-print on several pieces. Textures were rich and varied, with velvet adding a luxe and wintery touch to midi and shorter length dresses. There were also more literal interpretations, as Disney characters, including Tinkerbell and the Little Centaur, were printed onto jackets and dresses.

The date of the film also offered inspiration for the shapes in the collection, with ‘40s style silhouettes, furs and tweed suiting all featuring and offering a way to calm down what otherwise could have been a cartoonish, sugary collection.

The time feels right for a little fashion escapism and Katrantzou certainly provided it with this collection.

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