New York Fashion Week AW17: the trends

Natalie Hanson   |   23-02-2017

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New York Fashion Week AW17

RELAXED MENSWEAR

RELAXED MENSWEAR

RELAXED MENSWEAR

GREY SUITS

GREY SUITS

GREY SUITS

GREY SUITS

GREY SUITS

GREY SUITS

BRUSH YOUR SHOULDER OFF

BRUSH YOUR SHOULDER OFF

BRUSH YOUR SHOULDER OFF

BRUSH YOUR SHOULDER OFF

BRUSH YOUR SHOULDER OFF

BRUSH YOUR SHOULDER OFF

FRINGE BENEFITS

FRINGE BENEFITS

FRINGE BENEFITS

FRINGE BENEFITS

FRINGE BENEFITS

GLAMOROUS FUR

GLAMOROUS FUR

GLAMOROUS FUR

GLAMOROUS FUR

GLAMOROUS FUR

GLAMOROUS FUR

WRAP IT UP IN A BOW

WRAP IT UP IN A BOW

WRAP IT UP IN A BOW

WRAP IT UP IN A BOW

METALLIC GODDESSES

METALLIC GODDESSES

METALLIC GODDESSES

METALLIC GODDESSES

METALLIC GODDESSES

METALLIC GODDESSES

SEQUIN EMBELLISHMENT

SEQUIN EMBELLISHMENT

SEQUIN EMBELLISHMENT

SEQUIN EMBELLISHMENT

SEQUIN EMBELLISHMENT

SEQUIN EMBELLISHMENT

MONOCHROME

MONOCHROME

MONOCHROME

MONOCHROME

MONOCHROME

MONOCHROME

PRIMARY POPS

PRIMARY POPS

PRIMARY POPS

PRIMARY POPS

PRIMARY POPS

PRIMARY POPS

YELLOW HAZE

YELLOW HAZE

YELLOW HAZE

YELLOW HAZE

YELLOW HAZE

YELLOW HAZE

TAN-TASTIC

TAN-TASTIC

TAN-TASTIC

TAN-TASTIC

TAN-TASTIC

LEOPARD PRINT PARADE

LEOPARD PRINT PARADE

LEOPARD PRINT PARADE

LEOPARD PRINT PARADE

LEOPARD PRINT PARADE

SAY IT LOUD

SAY IT LOUD

SAY IT LOUD

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New York Fashion Week AW17

Click through the gallery to take a look at all the major trends from the week...

RELAXED MENSWEAR

There were menswear influences at nearly all the shows. Pieces were often oversize and looked relaxed and comfortable for easy but smart wardrobe solutions.

At 3.1 Phillip Lim the oversize pantsuit came in a vibrant pop of pink.

RELAXED MENSWEAR

At Michael Kors, grey wide leg suit trousers were combined with a beige wool coat coolly slouched over the shoulders for a chic menswear look.

RELAXED MENSWEAR

At Victoria Beckham, loose grey trousers were paired with gorgeously comfortable looking knitwear.

GREY SUITS

One specific area of suiting that stood out was the grey, wool fabrication, often with a tweed or check finish. The look was smart, sharp and provided women with an armour to face the world.

At Alexander Wang a blazer was layered over a jumpsuit of the same Prince of Wales checked material.

GREY SUITS

At Altuzarra the jacket was subtly flared and the wrap-around skirt had a sensual split.

GREY SUITS

Jason Wu didn't layer anything underneath his check blazer and had a simple trouser shape that tapered slightly at the ankles.

GREY SUITS

At Calvin Klein the blazer swung open in a relaxed way and the trousers showed a subtle flare.

GREY SUITS

Monse deconstructed the suit shape to give an alternative off-the-shoulder look.

GREY SUITS

At Thom Browne, added details came in the form of fur lining and a tie.

BRUSH YOUR SHOULDER OFF

Whether executed with a dramatic slash or a more subtle geometric structure, asymmetric pieces that exposed one shoulder were a key shape for tops and dresses alike.

At Jason Wu, he cut a relaxed yet sensual silhouette.

BRUSH YOUR SHOULDER OFF

At Michael Kors draping complemented the exposure of the shoulder and a bit of sparkle was used for an evening look.

BRUSH YOUR SHOULDER OFF

Monse exposed the shoulders for their suiting pieces to deconstruct the formal look.

BRUSH YOUR SHOULDER OFF

Oscar de la Renta used an angular neckline to add clean modern lines when paired with a fur skirt.

BRUSH YOUR SHOULDER OFF

Proenza Schouler accentuated the look by having one arm completely exposed and the other completely covered.

BRUSH YOUR SHOULDER OFF

Victoria Beckham gave a subtle nod to the trend with a more modest neckline.

FRINGE BENEFITS

From 1920s glamour to Western influence, fringe was everywhere on the catwalks. At Michael Kors, Kendall Jenner modelled a sequined party dress with dramatic extra long fringing.

FRINGE BENEFITS

Another extra long fringe moment at Marchesa, this time in delicate rainbow colours.

FRINGE BENEFITS

At Alexander Wang fringe was used to give shirts a subtle cowboy Western touch.

FRINGE BENEFITS

Jeremy Scott also opted for a black fringed party dress.

FRINGE BENEFITS

Fringe worked well to give a top-to-toe Ox-blood outfit some texture and movement.

GLAMOROUS FUR

As with many Autumn-Winter runways, fur was present in various guises. Rich dark jewel colours were popular as well as neutrals. At Anna Sui a deep teal jacket highlighted the print colour of the dress beneath perfectly.

GLAMOROUS FUR

Brandon Maxwell delivered sumptuous dark forest green fur slung over shoulders.

GLAMOROUS FUR

At Monse the fur was styled off the shoulder for a sultry look.

GLAMOROUS FUR

A key image from the week, Ashley Graham oozing womanly sophistication in a full cropped grey fur jacket.

GLAMOROUS FUR

Prabal Gurung was less traditional with his interpretation in jade.

GLAMOROUS FUR

Fur was a key element in Marc Jacob's homage to hip hop culture.

WRAP IT UP IN A BOW

Bow were a popular feature to give pretty and feminine detail to dresses, blouses, jackets and coats. At Marchesa, oversize bows wrapped up the models in satin dresses.

WRAP IT UP IN A BOW

Carolina Herrera added a feminine touch to her oversize coats.

WRAP IT UP IN A BOW

Altuzarra added a fun edge to a sharp shouldered blazer.

WRAP IT UP IN A BOW

At Tory Burch, the bows were oversize on ladylike blouses.

METALLIC GODDESSES

Metallics were a key feature in most collections. Often applied top to toe to create an army of metallic goddesses. At Naeem Khan he delivered red carpet ready creations.

METALLIC GODDESSES

At Michael Kors, a gun metal jumpsuit was strong yet still womanly.

METALLIC GODDESSES

Carolina Herrera broke up head to toe metallics with a deep V neckline to reveal a flash of skin.

METALLIC GODDESSES

Brandon Maxwell's models looked ready for the disco in sexy metallic suits.

METALLIC GODDESSES

Jeremy Scott added leopard print as an extra twist to his silver pant suits.

METALLIC GODDESSES

Proenza Schouler gave the metallics a streetwear edge with loose fit trousers.

SEQUIN EMBELLISHMENT

The shine didn't stop at metallics; sequins were present in abundance as well. Some were used all over and some to highlight key areas. At Monse the two colour sequined tunic was a stand out piece.

SEQUIN EMBELLISHMENT

Marchesa gave their low cut evening gowns the sequin treatment.

SEQUIN EMBELLISHMENT

At Oscar de la Renta, silver sequins looked divine with a pale pink pant suit.

SEQUIN EMBELLISHMENT

Prabal Gurung anchored his sheer gowns patches of sequins.

SEQUIN EMBELLISHMENT

Narciso Rodriguez added sophisticated sparkle to sheer black pieces.

SEQUIN EMBELLISHMENT

Naeem Khan threw back to the 1920's by combining his sequin patterns with fringing.

MONOCHROME

Black and white colour-blocking served to give workwear a clean finish and provided bold contrast for eveningwear. At Carolina Herrera her signature white blouses were paired with simple black bottoms.

MONOCHROME

This evening gown from Oscar de la Renta really popped with it's eye catching contrast.

MONOCHROME

Tory Burch made a simple tunic bold with black and white contrast.

MONOCHROME

At 3.1 Phillip Lim they flipped the script with black top and white loose trousers.

MONOCHROME

The Narciso Rodriguez take on monochrome was sensual with a thigh high split and styled with stockings.

MONOCHROME

Thom Browne used monochrome to stark and bold effect.

PRIMARY POPS

Colour palettes were limited at NYFW. Grounded with a base of monochrome and neutrals, bright pops of primary colours were used throughout the collections to draw the eye. At Marc Jacobs this worked perfectly with a red dress and the model's blue hair.

PRIMARY POPS

At Monse, red, blue and yellow were layered over black and white.

PRIMARY POPS

Jason Wu gave a ladylike coat some flattering appeal with a deep V cut and bright pop of red.

PRIMARY POPS

Raf Simons at Calvin Klein paired red and other primary colours against white for his all American looks.

PRIMARY POPS

Patches of blue jumped out from black ensembles at 3.1 Phillip Lim.

PRIMARY POPS

Bright blue gave black and white some modern life at Oscar de la Renta.

YELLOW HAZE

Yellow appeared frequently in head to toe looks, from more golden hues to bright primary shades, as with this Altuzarra velvet dress.

YELLOW HAZE

At Calvin Klein a golden yellow coat was layered with transparent plastic for a high shine finish.

YELLOW HAZE

At Jason Wu, he showed a stunningly rich satin gown.

YELLOW HAZE

Monse gave their yellow gown a slash at the shoulder and asymmetric panelling to break up the colour.

YELLOW HAZE

Prabal Gurung showed a slightly lighter shade with more summery connotations.

YELLOW HAZE

Marc Jacobs' yellow had a more faded '70's vibe.

TAN-TASTIC

Brown was spotted in rich tan shades, from outerwear to corduroy trousers. At 3.1 Phillip Lim brown was used for a leather peplum tank top.

TAN-TASTIC

Tory Burch showed traditional brown corduroys with a printed blouse.

TAN-TASTIC

Proenza Schouler tried an unusual combination; a shiny black coat with rich brown fur lining.

TAN-TASTIC

Marc Jacobs slung brown jackets over his models' shoulders.

TAN-TASTIC

The brown jacket at Narciso Rodriguez was neater and more grown-up.

LEOPARD PRINT PARADE

Leopard was the print of choice for the week. Here at Jason Wu it was rendered in soft green velvet for a super luxe texture.

LEOPARD PRINT PARADE

Jeremy Scott used leopard print in a fun way paired with printed trousers.

LEOPARD PRINT PARADE

Michael Kors dressed Bella Hadid in a grey velvet number with tasselled belt.

LEOPARD PRINT PARADE

Alexander Wang used leopard print on tights.

LEOPARD PRINT PARADE

Naeem Khan used large scale leopard for a deep cut sequined gown.

SAY IT LOUD

Several designers chose to make statements with words, often to make reference to the political climate. Jeremy Scott made his statements with sequins.

SAY IT LOUD

Prabal Gurung declared that the future is female.

SAY IT LOUD

At Yeezy, Kanye West chose to use branding for the first time, printing the name of his new album onto pieces.

AW17 New York Fashion Week is behind us, and it was a season of change for the city. With departures by Rodarte and Hood by Air, along with the last show from Proenza Schouler (for now) as they make the move to Paris, the fashion pack entered the week unsure of what New York may have to offer.

A few of the designers chose to speak out on political issues currently at the forefront of discussion in the USA. Most evidently Prabal Gurung utilised the power of the slogan tee to speak out, much like Maria Grazia Chiuri did for Dior the previous season. Others, like Carolina Herrera and Michael Kors, chose to stick to what they do best and delivered polished and commercial shows that were surely going to please their loyal customers.

Marc Jacobs responded to the backlash over the cultural appropriation in his last show (white models walked the runway in faux multi-coloured dreadlocks) with a silent show in homage to the way hip-hop culture has influenced the sartorial zeitgeist. Also, Raf Simon’s made his much-anticipated debut for Calvin Klein and it was a highlight of the week as we saw him set the tone for the brand’s future with him at the helm.

Take a look at the gallery above where a&e rounds up the main trends that emerged over New York Fashion Week.