Zuhair Murad’s regal dazzling collection for haute couture spring/summer 2016

  |   01-02-2016

Zuhair Murad’s latest collection was inspired by the period of Elizabeth I. The designer said: “I love the possibilities of corsets. You could say I wanted to put women in a gilded cage.” He focused on stately silhouettes. Muses gilded in sun-kissed cages. Panniers galore in jaunty horsehair walked in a flowering of artfully rounded volumes suggestive of virtuoso birdcages: structured curves of crinolines, basques and whalebone forming ethereal cage bars and dazzling, delicate openwork. 

A cascade of 3-D floral embroideries (each petal sewn on individually) gracefully poured over dresses short and long. We adored a series of sexy, bouffant mini-dresses, über-chic tulip skirts, and architectural, show-stopping eveningwear with glamorous red-carpet trains. 

Charming arbours and bowers of bliss formed a blaze of ornament; embroidery flourished over decorative metal that all loosely enfolded revealing a silhouette wreathed in gracious shades of rosewood and raw silk, lavender and celadon, glittering ash, crystal white, or vibrant vermillion.

A revelry of plunging backs and necklines, in spellbound asymmetry, amplified by abundance. Transparency exposed the beguiling enchantment of tulle, organza, silk gazar, crêpe de soie, lace, brocade, guipure and silk chiffon.

The grand finale was a breathtaking bridal gown. A regal vision with a 13-foot train and matching veil. Murad takes wedding attire seriously. His ateliers turn out five or six gowns per month.