Born in Ireland, raised in South Africa and now living in London, designer Catherine Deane designs take cultural references from her nomadic lifestyle and her passion for long forgotten craft techniques. Traditional techniques with a modernist twist of simplicity, form the foundation of Catherine’s work and are fuelled by the constant search for new methods from around the world that can be incorporated into the designs. All of these elements combine to create one of a kind pieces that have garnered a celebrity following, including Beyoncé, Lana del Rey and Pippa Middleton. Deane’s goddess gowns, made from sumptuous and luxurious European fabrics, are opulently embellished with leather, silk, tulle and beading. They may appear simple, yet they are intricately detailed at the same time.
What inspired you to become a designer and launch Catherine Deane?
From a young age, I loved to make beautiful things. I started knitting and embroidery with my grannies in South Africa where I grew up, and then graduated to a sewing machine when I was about 12 years old. My mother taught me how to sew, and I loved it! I would experiment with different fabrics and shapes, and by the time I finished school, I was sure that I wanted to study fashion, and pursue this as a career. I had a clothing business in South Africa for three years, which was a lot of fun, and I learned a valuable foundation in business, design, and manufacturing, following two years working for a start-up luxury label in London, designing collections, taking manufacturing off-shore to Asia and selling at international trade shows. Basically, I threw myself in at the deep-end in both instances, but learned enough to give me the confidence to set up my own label again, in London in 2005.
What would you say is the DNA of the brand?
Classic, romantic, and feminine, with a little edge.
You began your label as a purely ready to wear brand, what made you move into bridal designs?
I have been tinkering around making wedding dresses since the beginning of my career in fashion, including my sister’s wedding dress and a few private commissions. When I started the label in 2005, it was not with the intention of creating wedding gowns, but clearly there were better plans on the horizon for me! I began creating some of my ready-to-wear gowns in oyster and cream colours, by request from some of my middle eastern customers who wanted to buy my gowns in pale colours, and then then the bridal industry started knocking on the door. It was not until 2010 that the category really took off when I started to supply BHLDN, an American clothing retailer that specialises in bridal wear. Six years on, and we have opened our own bridal retail channels, including a showroom in London & New York, e-commerce for the UK, Ireland, and European markets, together with over 60 bridal stockists worldwide. I absolutely love creating in this category, especially as it is such an honour to be part of dressing women on such a significant day in their lives, a day so full of love and happiness.
How do you feel your brand has evolved over the years?
The product has not changed that much, rather it has taken time for me to find the right fit in terms of retailers, customers, and product offerings. My role is as both creative and commercial director, which I believe gives me a unique viewpoint on how best to navigate the brand.
What has been your biggest achievement?
Creating a company that is operated in a style of gentle feminine leadership. Where our culture, values and teamwork are at the forefront of all we do.
What drives and motivates you to design each new collection?
I really love what I do, I am a natural seeker. I love creating beauty and I love to make people happy. I think we are in an important time where women can be more expressive and empowered than ever before. I simply want my dresses to support the goddess in all of us.
Do you have a favourite moment in the process?
The element of surprise. I like to work three dimensionally on the mannequin so that I can observe the evolution of the dress. I am open to the mystery of how that particular design will unfold, and I like to let the fabric move in its own direction, or the embroidery to sculpt and frame the feminine form as it chooses to.
Lace is a fabric you use extensively in your designs, what is your trick to give the traditional fabric a contemporary feel?
I have had a love affair with lace from a very young age when I started making my own dresses. There is something so sensual and feminine about lace. There is the fact that it is partially sheer, a little naughty, yet it can also be made to look rather ladylike. Lace is so versatile and expressive as a medium for me and I will never get tired of working with it. In design, as in life, I am constantly looking at duality and balance, and I so enjoy exploring this medium while bringing in a little bit of edge, hard meeting soft, light meeting dark, masculine meeting feminine. It’s a dualistic universe after all.
Is there one dress that is a favourite, or you are particularly proud of?
That would be like choosing a favourite child!
What are your bestsellers?
There are certain gowns that our brides just adore, like the Laverne gown, with her soft silk tulle body and beautiful lace back detail, and our bridal separates collection has also become extremely popular in the past year.
How would you describe your own personal style?
To dress in a way that makes me feel comfortable, feminine, and free. I always default to classic shapes with a little edge.
What is your failsafe outfit?
A little black dress.
Do you go for heels or flats?
Barefoot is my preference!
What can we expect from the next chapter of Catherine Deane?
A global bridal and occasion wear e-commerce platform, that can bring our dresses to all our beautiful customers within 3 days, instead of the usual 6 months’ wait in the bridal world.
By Eliza Scarborough
