Roland Mouret; the man behind the magical art of drapery

Lara Mansour   |   10-03-2017

London-based, Lourdes-born fashion designer Roland Mouret’s charming demeanour and striking looks have made him a magnet for the fashion elite, but it is his flattering and feminine designs that have put his name on the map. The dresses have become famous in their own right, some known simply by their first names, Galaxy, Moon, Pigalle and Titanium.

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Mouret worked his way into the fashion industry, gradually making his way up the ranks as a student, a model for Jean Paul Gaultier, and a fashion stylist for French Glamour. He then decamped to London where he made a living from art directing pop videos, with Kylie Minogue and Bananarama being among his clients, before opening a café and gallery space in London’s Soho and launching a now-defunct streetwear brand called People Corporation.

Mouret, the son of a butcher, cites his father’s work apron as the first fabric he learnt to deal with, playing with the square of fabric to get it to fit the body. Although it wasn’t until 1997 when these skills were showcased, and he set up his own fashion label with 15 one-off, handmade pieces that he had created by pinning cloth directly on to a tailor’s dummy. Cue the Galaxy dress which was introduced in his Spring 2006 collection and first worn by Scarlett Johansson and Dita Von Teese, then by Cameron Diaz, Sienna Miller, Naomi Watts, Rachel Weisz and every other red-carpet starlet who fell in love with the frock’s old-fashioned glamour. However, the relationship with his backers came to a grinding halt and a split was announced, just 2 months after the frock with its superstar status was created, citing managerial differences. Unfortunately, Mouret had signed a deal that compromised his rights, and even the ownership of his name, yet as he was still contracted to the company he continued designing his iconic hits.

When he was eventually released from his contract in 2005, Mouret took a two-year hiatus, only returning when he found a new backer in Simon Fuller, the man behind the Spice Girls and the Pop Idol phenomenon, forming the company 19RM. The launch in 2007 was designed as a global interactive event and featured 21 ‘easy-chic’, geometric dresses which were available to purchase online the day after, making him a pioneer of the now popular ‘See Now, Buy Now’ trend.

Fast-forward to today and Mouret has bought back the rights to his own name and there are a host of new high-profile fans, including the future Queen of England, the Duchess of Cambridge. There are also shoes, bags and a bridal collection. Conjuring curves in all the right places, there is no denying the allure of the Frenchman’s frocks, so we chat to him about what inspires these skills and the tumultuous time he has had over the years.

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When did you first realise that you wanted to be a fashion designer?

I was the son of a butcher, and I used to watch him fold his apron in ways to hide the blood. I learned my technique from watching him, and developed it into what I do today.

What is the secret to a successful label?

I think some of it has to do with listening to my customers, and taking her needs into consideration during the design process. The women who wear my pieces are the ones that take it from sexy to sophisticated and elegant. Being a designer, my tools are to elevate a woman’s confidence, she brings the pieces to life.

Who is the Roland Mouret woman?

She is constantly on the move, and requires a wardrobe to take her from place to place. The reason separates are so important in my collections are because it allows her to interpret and reinterpret her look, without compromising her style.

What drives you and keeps you inspired over the years?

Confidence inspires me, it is the foundation of all my work. I want the woman I design for to feel this, walk with confidence and have the reassurance that they are wearing something in tune with their lives.

Why do you choose to drape rather than sketch?

For me, draping directly onto the female form is the only way to fully understand the potential of the silhouette. When something is three-dimensional it has life, it has movement and that is the most important quality for me.

How has the fashion industry changed since you started?

Fashion, like life, is an evolutionary process. It goes onwards, and you can look to the past to better understand the future. The sands are shifting more and more, and where they settle, no one truly knows.

What are your career highlights so far?

Nothing will ever top the feeling of your first red carpet moment. It was with Scarlett Johansson and she wore a peachy coloured gown with an essence of Marilyn Monroe. It was to the 2005 Golden Globes.

Who have you been most excited to see wearing your clothes?

Every actress and woman who has worn my designs have given me so much pleasure. However, I will always cherish the Demi Moore moment, who was the first to wear the Galaxy dress in LA. She took the dress and made it her own, styling it with a long strand of pearls. It was at that moment when I realised what an ‘icon’ was.

How do you feel about the constant focus on your hero Galaxy dress?

The Galaxy dress is a dress for all women, which is how it should be. I designed it with the gift of confidence and it has stood the test of time, today I am happy to see it as my house’s icon.

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Why set up your atelier in London as opposed to Paris?

London will always be my creative home. After all these years, I feel as though I am on the set of a movie, with the grandeur of architecture, and the rich history. It’s a melting pot of the best of the world’s cultures.

What is your secret to switching off and relaxing?

Aside from Roland Mouret the designer, I live a quiet and private life in the English countryside with my family, walking my dog, and pottering around in my garden.

How would you describe your own personal style?

Black shirts and khaki trousers take me from day to night.

If you could give one piece of style advice to a woman, what would it be?

It’s all in the attitude.

By Eliza Scarborough