Sandra Choi On the perfect Choo

Lara Mansour   |   17-03-2016

How Sandra Choi has been steadily building her accessories empire, one pair of heels at a time

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Shoes are memorable. They mark pivotal life events. You will remember the pair you wore when you got married, or those that won you your first job. They cause judgements, are the much needed finishing touch to your look and will transform any outfit. The talented Sandra Choi, Creative Director of Jimmy Choo, has designed some of the most iconic styles we know.

Born in the UK on the Isle of Wight, and educated in Hong Kong, Choi relocated to London as a teenager to finish her secondary school education. It was a jacket from John Galliano’s graduate show that was the catalyst and persuaded Choi to pursue fashion. Thus aged 18, she started working for her uncle, Jimmy Choo, and enrolled in the foundation design course at Central St Martins. Choi eventually abandoned her studies so that she could devote herself full-time to design and the management of the atelier, which was catering to the global jet set, including Princess Diana.

In 1996, the Jimmy Choo brand was born with Sandra Choi serving as the company’s Creative Director, a position she holds to this day.  Tamara Mellon, the glitzy, Vogue girl turned entrepreneur, then joined Jimmy Choo and was the key force behind the company’s explosive growth.

The fate of the brand was officially and fantastically sealed when Sex and The City hit our screens in the millennium. There were two or three storylines that specifically related to Jimmy Choo, together with those that generally highlighted the emotional attachment women have with their vertiginous friends. Iconic moments such as Carrie Bradshaw exclaiming, ‘Wait, I lost my Choo!’ could never have happened had it not been for her feathered, flesh-tone sling back.

The Oscars, too, were a turning point for the brand. Tamara and Sandra travelled to Los Angeles to produce dyed shoes to match actresses’ dresses for the Oscars. The red carpet proved to be the ideal runway for shoes and then handbags, as actresses such as Halle Berry, Penelope Cruz, Gwyneth Paltrow and Natalie Portman prominently wore Jimmy Choo. Mr Choo departed the company in 2001, and later Mellon in 2011, leaving Choi to continue steering the internationally recognised label forward. The company is now owned by a private investment firm and has 183 stores in 36 countries. Sandra, who for so long was the unsung back-room toiler of Jimmy Choo, hits a milestone twenty years this month, and now takes centre stage.

As the hotly-anticipated SS16 collection is launched, we catch up with Sandra Choi, the creative force behind the glamorous, Great British brand.

Have shoes always been a personal passion of yours?

I have always had a keen interest in fashion and an early appreciation for tailoring and architectural design in ready to wear. Shoes didn’t become part of my life until I was 18, when I started working with my uncle. He taught me the disciplines of design and the importance of the foundations of a shoe. Now I live and breathe shoes.

What are the first pair of shoes you remember wearing?

I remember my very first pair of shoes. They were white patent Mary Jane dolly shoes with block heels. I loved them because I got to dress up and feel like one of the big girls.  There is an element of fairy tale and magic about shoes.

If you hadn’t been part of the shoe industry, what would you be doing?

I think something definitely within the creative industry. I have a huge passion for architecture and photography.

Why do you think women are so obsessed with shoes?

Women have always had a special relationship with shoes. It starts from a young age when you are introduced to the fairy tale of the shoe in stories such as Cinderella. The transformational power a pair of shoes has is ingrained from an early age. The ability to literally and figuratively allow the wearer to step into character. Whether it is a powerful woman with black stilettos, a glamorous siren with strappy silver sandals, or rebellious cool girl with biker boots.

What elements make a flattering shoe? Do you put comfort or appearance first when designing?

For me, a great shoe has to be fit for purpose, together with incorporating great design. When I design I am focused on keeping the balance between the aspiration of the catwalk pieces and the broader appeal of our main collections. It is all in the attention to detail of the design, the cut of the shoe, how the foot is pitched, where the straps fall, and how low the toe is cut. The smallest changes will make a difference when designing a shoe, and every millimetre counts. Shoes have always had the power to transform, both physically in how you hold yourself, but also how you feel emotionally. You need to know which styles and heel heights work for you, how they make you feel, and then consider whether they are appropriate for the occasion you are wearing them to. A great pair of heels can make you feel confident, sexy, glamorous and powerful but only when the occasion calls for it. If you need to be fast on your feet, then a sneaker or biker boot will be just as appealing, giving you the confidence to look good whilst you are on the move.

Of all the accessories that you’ve designed, which has given you the most satisfaction?

I think my designs give me the most satisfaction when I see people wearing them. Whether it is someone on the street or Michelle Obama, both make me equally proud.

How has your work evolved over the years?

I am focused on evolving the brand, ensuring the product remains modern, relevant and creative. The Jimmy Choo customer has a very strong emotional connection to the brand, and we need to feed that passion, to keep surprising them and delivering what they want. The men’s collections have been phenomenally well received and we are expanding these collections for future seasons.

It is about building on our brand heritage yet staying relevant, together with constant innovation and also throwing in a few surprises along the way.

How would you describe your personal style?

I like strong silhouettes in a muted palette. I rarely wear patterns or prints, focusing instead on the cut and tailoring. I have quite an androgynous style, although that being said, you will see me in pink, but it will be my kind of pink! For day I like skinny jeans or trousers and a silk or cashmere top, I will always work my look around my shoes which will usually be a pointy toe heel. I am currently building my jewellery collection, with vintage and contemporary pieces, and I am a big fan of Solange Azagury-Partridge.  I also love vintage fashion, not necessarily to wear but because I love the way they look. In terms of designers, I love Simone Rocha, McQueen and Erdem

What is your ideal heel height? Do you tend to opt for flats or skyscrapers?

Like most women I love shoes and I have over 500 pairs! They are mainly Jimmy Choo, peppered with some vintage styles which I have collected over the years for personal design reference – it is an occupational hazard!  My go-to style is the Romy 100mm stiletto that works for all occasions, I need the extra height as I’m quite small, but I also can’t live without my Demi skate shoes.

If you could only own one pair of shoes, which style would they be?

There is no way I could choose!

What fascinates you right now and how is it influencing your work?

I am inspired by so much. A designer cannot ever switch off, so different objects are always catching my eye.  I am constantly collecting pieces of inspiration every day, whether it may be a picture from a magazine, a fabric swatch or a vintage reference, but I think this is what helps inspire me. I never restrict myself to certain fields. We are a global brand now who caters for an international woman and I want my inspirations to reflect this. When I travel, I adore visiting different galleries, museums or vintage stores. In LA, I love the Lachman or in Paris I will take myself off to Monmartre on a Sunday morning. The other thing that my husband, who is an oil painter, and I love doing is visiting salvage yards and brocante markets

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Tell us what inspired your new Spring Summer collection?

For Spring Summer ’16 I was inspired by L.A and wanted to convey its upbeat attitude and laid-back glamour. The sunshine, the outdoors and the sculptural grandeur of architects Richard Meier and Frank Gehry were the starting point for the collection.

Is there a piece from the collection that sums you up, through its style and design?

It would have to be the Merry clog for SS16. It’s an oversized mule silhouette with a playful Perspex heel injected with glitter. It is glamorous, but also has a sense of fun. For bags, it would have to be the new Lockett Petite. It’s the perfect cross-body mini bag and offers a refined, lady-like silhouette, but with statement hardware and glamorous finishes.  I will be wearing it with everything!  It is so versatile.

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What can we expect from the next 20 years of Jimmy Choo?

Being twenty years old you have achieved your set characteristics for your brand. My vision is to maintain the integrity of those characteristics, whilst pushing the boundaries and instilling a firmer creative code throughout the brand.

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by Eliza Scarborough

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