Lucas Ossendrijver joined Lanvin in 2005, employed by creative director Alber Elbaz, who gave him a free reign in restructuring Lanvin Homme. His close relationship with detail and materials have significantly advanced the components of shape that define Lanvin’s menswear. Ossendrijver was born in 1970, in the small Netherlands village of Amersfoort. His father ran a construction business, though Lucas knew early on that he wanted to take a more creative path, and this crystallised during his studies at the prestigious Fashion Institute Arnhem.
He joined Kenzo menswear in 1997 and in 2000 he moved to Munich with German-Greek fashion designer Kostas Murkudis. Next was Dior Homme in the Hedi Slimane years, before being charged in 2006 with translating Alber Elbaz’s success at Lanvin to the men’s market. Ossendrijver did exactly this, putting Lanvin menswear on the map, creating luxury clothes with a fashion edge. His shows were a highlight, while his sneakers became both a design classic and a sell-out hit.
What are your own wardrobe essentials?
Buy something versatile with which you can mix and max for different occasions. For example, a suit you can wear with Lanvin trainers or separates that can be worn with jeans for less formal events. You should always dress to underline your personality.
Who is your style icon, and in your eye, what embodies elegance?
I don’t really have a muse or famous actor who I find really fabulous. It’s really people that I know, people that I work with, people that I see in the street. You can be inspired by just walking around and seeing how people are dressed, going to an exhibition, things that people bring into the studio, or even a conversation with somebody.
How would you define Lanvin’s menswear aesthetic?
It’s about freedom and choice. I do not want to dictate. We propose options for different men and different body types. It’s all about the individuality and expression of the wearer’s personality.
At what stage did you realise that fashion was a career path you wanted to follow?
As a child my father had a construction company. I was always building things in the garden and knew that I wanted to work with my hands. At first I thought of becoming an architect but later when starting art school, I did a foundation course and it was then I found my true calling.
Do you have a fashion memory that remains engraved in your mind?
I worked for quite a lot of companies before joining Lanvin. Kenzo, Kostas Murkudis and Dior. All gave me a different experience. I think it really shaped me. You meet people, experience different ways of working, and different cultures. Without that experience I wouldn’t be able to do what I am doing now. For me my biggest step into the industry was coming to Lanvin, and working with Alber, whom I love and respect a lot! At the time I wrote him a letter, which was received the week after by him and Madame Wang. That’s how it all started. I never thought about how long I would stay but it has proven to be a great environment to work in, with a lot of freedom and possibilities. And of course, I feel an affinity with the brand, what is stands for and what it represents, as one of the oldest couture houses still functioning today. Also, don’t forget that brands are about the people behind them. The people that make things happen, from the seamstress to production. You do get attached, and after a while it feels like family.
Can you tell us about key moments in your career?
When I think about the key moments in my career and especially Lanvin, I think of all the people I’ve worked with, the journey it has been, and the opportunities I’ve had to meet these people. Designing is not a solitary occupation, it is about teamwork, from my team that I love, to the factories, to the press, and then to the clients. Step by step we’ve been able to build a business that still grows. It’s difficult to last in fashion because the attention-span is very short nowadays. One day you’re in and the next day out! So maybe that’s what I’m most proud of.
How do you feel about the fanaticism that surrounds hero products, like the high top trainers?
Regarding the trainers, I am very proud of how they have developed over the years. Trainers play an important part within the men’s accessory collection. They are almost like handbags for women. For me, trainers are an integral part of man’s wardrobe and personally I wear them most of the time, so I felt it was necessary to create then at Lanvin. When I started 10 years ago there were no trainers at Lanvin, so it has been a huge development to see them become an iconic product.
How do you feel men’s shopping habits and fashion tastes differ from women?
People don’t change and men don’t change, it is our lifestyle that does. What I’ve seen is that in general there is far more interest in fashion than there used to be. Men’s fashion has become a growing business, with men being more open to fashion. The way we live now means that all the information about fashion is immediately available worldwide, no matter where you are. Fashion has become democratic and everybody has an opinion about it. It is less elitist than it used to be. The speed has also changed. For men we have also started creating pre-collections so instead of two shows it’s four collections now. This constant demand for all things new has put a lot more pressure on us designers. Men have started to buy clothes more like women do, less about needs, and more because they want certain things. They are more impulsive and outspoken. It is important to deal with these factors and adapt. It also creates new opportunities for us. That’s what I love about fashion. The constant questioning of things.
What is your fashion must have for Spring Summer 16?
For a man there is nothing better than a well cut tailored jacket or coat. I love the light summer coats we did for summer, fully canvased, with a soft shoulder, and patched front. They are hand stitched and finished in a light wool mohair. Also I love the embroidered bowling shirt and look forward to wearing it this summer.
by Eliza Scarborough
