One of Lebanon’s most successful designers, Rani Zakhem is the new fashion innovator with a reputable presence across the Middle East all the way to Hollywood. Born in Lebanon and raised in Kenya, from a very young age Zakhem knew he was destined to be part of the design industry; that led him to pursue a degree in architecture in Lebanon, and then fashion design at Parsons the New School for Design in New York.
Charmed by the colourful beauty of the African lands, the label features three main lines including ready-to-wear, couture, and bridal. We get personal with the designer as he tells us how he went from being in interior architecture to fashion design and the triggers behind his timeless creations.
How did growing up in Kenya help your aesthetics and daily inspirations?
For people who grow up in Africa, it never leaves them. Definitely, it still inspires my work to this day, the colours, the landscapes, and the memories influence my tastes. I like two extremes, personally I love monochromes as for me the absence of colour is very soothing, especially when you work with colours all day. But when it comes to my own designs, I am known for my vibrant tones.
What triggered your passion for design?
I have always known that I wanted to be a Fashion Designer, and my love for architecture compliments it all.
What is one thing that makes your process different to other designers out there?
I believe every designer has a way of processing a collection, for me there isn’t one process per-se in specific. Sometimes a love story can start with a fabric or a dream, and sometimes it is inspired by the women you work with, as many times they have new ideas, they have a flair with their choices or with their taste level and their way of life.
Is there anyone in specific you are thinking of right now that heavily influenced your work?
There are many interesting women that compliment my way of thinking and sometimes you adapt to their way of thinking and living that takes a big part of the process.
What is your take on the world of Fashion in the Middle East? Is it growing positively or negatively?
Fashion is a very industrious business; sometimes I do feel that everyone just wants to become a designer, which is sort of ridiculous. I just think that some don’t understand what being a designer is, because fashion design isn’t as glamorous as it seems, there is a lot of mathematics and architecture. For me I believe they are praying on the business. Many are masterful accomplished designers that know what they are doing, and are worth being named as designers because they studied and practiced. However, some others are just intruding.
What is Rani Zakhem’s main philosophy?
I would say understated elegance with a touch of quirkiness. It is for an elegant modern woman, because I personally am an advocate for the form-loving silhouette and like to show her curves and to experiment with shapes that help women feel sensual and seductive.
What is your biggest design inspiration for the coming year 2018?
For next year we are experimenting with new horizons! The main trend we are working on is fringes and incorporating macro-main knitwear.
You have dressed a star-studded list of clientele, who else is on your wish list?
Charline Theron! Others from the Arab world that I look up to would be Queen Rania of Jordan, I think she is an icon of style, and also Sheikha Mousa and Queen Leila. There are a lot of remarkable woman who symbolise the modern Arab woman of today.
If you were to go back in time, what era would you choose to be a designer in?
I would love to go back to the 1920’s and ‘30’s!
What’s your take on social media? How important do you think it is towards building a brand?
Social media today is an important tool to show your work and craftsmanship and give more exposure to the brand. However, I do believe that there are a lot of people, such as bloggers and influencers who are praying on the business, and for me personally they are not adding a plus to the industry, and are given more credit than they should. While the designers are the ones who are doing all the work and coming up with the creations, they are the ones who are getting all the hype. So I believe somewhere down the line I think people’s ideas got a little bit skewed or confused, because we are the ones who are supplying them with the materials that they are influencing with. This is a topic that is very subjective, but of course social media is important to give awareness for the brand, and to put it on an international platform where it is visible and accessible to everyone.
Can you share with us your least favourite Fall 2017 trends?
The rainbow coloured Gucci platforms, I think they were a big no-no!
Latest song that you have on repeat on your iPod…
“Feel it still” by Portugal. The Man.
If you were a city…
That’s debatable; it would be Paris and New York!
Name a movie that made you laugh very hard.
White Chicks!
What advice would you like to share with young designers trying to break into the industry today?
Never give up! It is a very tough industry and sometimes designers or artists are always self-conscious, searching for ways to validate themselves, which makes them discouraged. Even now after 9 years in the business I question my designs. The key is to always work on improving; never stop from creating new shapes and different silhouette details; if this time it didn’t work out it will eventually the next time around. So, I say to them to always stay true to your identity as a designer.
What is Beirut to you?
Beirut is a lot of things- it is passion, anger, home sweet home. It is really a city that is indescribable, but it is full of colours and warmth that is not found anywhere else; and of course good food!
What is next for Rani Zakhem?
Hopefully, opening a freestanding store here in Lebanon; and to show our collections in Paris. I personally think that things are meant to happen effortlessly; because if you force them they either don’t last or happen in the right way you want them to. Things do really happen for a reason!
By Dana Mortada
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