The recent announcement that Proenza Schouler would be relocating their show to Paris hit New York Fashion Week hard. The pair of designers have been a highlight of the city’s show schedule since they graduated from Parsons and joined the line-up 15 years ago. Their plan is to present pre-season and main collections during Paris Haute Couture weeks going forward, a model first adopted by Vetements to enhance sales. However, it has not been confirmed as a permanent move so who knows where the next few seasons will take the brand.
Either way, this collection was Proenza Schouler’s ‘farewell for now’ to the city and they chose to present a tough and streetwise aesthetic in monochrome with bright pops of red and blue.
The Proenza logo was weaved into the looks; it appeared several times on extra-long zippers of jackets and handbags, an on-trend idea with a lot of commercial savvy. There was a feast of outerwear to delight in, from lacquered black and white shearling jackets to oversize cloth coats with decorative zip detailing that exposed the arms.
Layering was key, with technical knits wrapped over delicate chiffon and dresses featuring multiple cut-outs and layers throughout. Sharp and geometric lines sliced the body, showing as holes and slashes. Graffiti-style scrawl was printed onto latex giving an urban feel. However, the way the dresses wrapped around the models’ bodies in a close fit ensured the look remained feminine. The mix of high-shine and matt fabrications added depth and interest to the pieces.
The two designers said that the show was their ‘representation of New York,’ and indeed it was a fond farewell to their first fashion home.