Following a very commercial Spring Couture week in January, where Maison Margiela was heralded as one of the only houses to present ‘true’ couture in its rightful artistic form, John Galliano continued to sprinkle his eccentric magic over the ready-to-wear AW17 collection today in Paris.
Before the show, we were treated to some peeks of collection details by the brand. They revealed delicate nude peacock feathers and flashes of multi-coloured yarn, giving a little insight into what might be in store. The show was called ‘Défilé’ which, when translated to English means ‘Parade.’ The show was set in a bright open white space; giving the impression of a blank canvas waiting to be filled in.
The show opened with a run of looks in neutral colours; nude had a large role as Galliano played with ideas of negative space. There were several familiar details from his couture show, with cut-outs and long strands of fabric playing their part in the effect.
Then more colour started to show with red being the dominant hue. The final look struck carnival chords, as the model walked the runway in a belted jacket and matching skirt with striking embroidery of bright blue, red, yellow pink and green.
Galliano always likes to turn things on their heads; and he did so quite literally in some parts as he had models walk wearing handbags as headpieces in his traditional disruptive style. It was a ready-to-wear show, so of course we saw a more toned-down version of Galliano today, but evidence of his personality shines through, even in this more commercial arena.