At the preview of the Erdem Resort 2018 collection, Moralioglu described how he had looked to the worlds of two female artists in the ‘30s and ‘40s; surrealist painter Leonora Carrington and Dada artist Hannah Höch. This influence, alongside Japonaise screens and textiles of landscapes and birds provide the base of the collection that was reflected in the flowery jacquards and embroideries and the ’40s tea dress silhouettes.
His take is always romantic and full of detail; prints are his strong suit and there was no change in this collection with artful colour combinations and gorgeous pops of lilac and yellow florals on dark bases. Feathered boas draped off the models added an English eccentricity that suited the presentation’s surroundings of Chatsworth House in Derbyshire. You could imagine the old inhabitants of this residence wearing his creations, at once demure yet glamorous and so full of detail and richness. Erdem is growing the accessories collection in an astute commercial move, and the stand out touches were the insect brooches that added a real retro feel to tops and floor length dresses.