Alessandro Sartori’s latest collection for Ermenegildo Zegna couture provided a spectacular opening to the Spring 2019 men’s shows in Milan. Set against a stunning backdrop; models were presented against the arched facade of the Palazzo Mondadori Palace by Oscar Niemeyer just outside the city. A purpose-built mirrored runway was set across a lake on the outside of the venue.
Presented at sunset the collection, coined “Weightlessness,” reflected the mood of the show. Soft, relaxed and comfortable, the 48 looks were a collection of functional pieces with a purpose of taking style from day to night.
Active wear, distressed denim, day wear and slouchy suits; were all relaxed and laid back. Nothing in this collection was formal, with even blazers evoking a slouchy silhouette. Suits were causal and mismatched with blazers created in mesh fabric and loosely cut trousers rolled up at the ankle.
Technical techniques and fabrics formed the basis of the materials for the collection with laser-cut leather, fusions of mesh, wool and silk, prints on cashmere, and checks in linen crepe. Elsewhere materials were soft and slouchy. Active trousers (that could also be turned into shorts) and hooded jackets were worn over mesh knits. Drawstrings were found on longline shorts and trousers. Even the smartest trousers were oversized and slouchy, created with a relaxed loose cotton, pleated at the front.
Prints came in the form of checks and stripes – with the pinstripe blazer making a comeback and check printed jackets worn over laser-cut leather. A sports print was also presented on blazers and trousers highlighting the brands love for tennis. The colour palette, much like the shows backdrop, was soft and neutral. Soft khaki gave a utility feel to the pieces while pastel hues and primary colours made their mark in the second half of the show, with looks being one-toned.
Accessories come in the form of the brand’s Triple X sneakers, worn with sports socks pulled up over the ankle. As well as sandals, oversized holdalls and mesh visors. – giving a sporty feel to the relaxed looks.