A&E Interviews: Zaid Farouki

Eliza Scarborough   |   18-01-2018

Emerging Arab American atelier designer Zaid Farouki always wanted to design, but when it came to the idea of applying to universities and picking a major he was told that as long as he got a degree in business, he could do whatever he wanted afterwards. So, that is exactly what he did, moving to Washington DC to attend American University, where he majored in Business Administration with Marketing. During this time Zaid’s artistic side felt starved, so he started art classes and completed a studio art minor, which included painting, sculpting, and multimedia. From here a fashion design degree followed at Istituto Marangoni, Milan, together with specialised courses in couture techniques, embroidery, and hand-painting at Central Saint Martins, before launching his first atelier collection in 2016 in Dubai.

 

Farouki is from a global background, finding inspiration in the fusion of cultures, and imagining a woman adorned by European clean cuts, true American liberties, and the ever-existing Arab dramatisation. His designs are individually and specially painted by him, which makes his pieces extraordinary, combining couture techniques, embroidery, and unique artwork.

 

Tell us about how your interest in fashion began, and what inspired you to become a fashion designer?

I always wanted to become a fashion designer, so when it came to the idea of applying to universities and picking my major I was told that as long as I got a degree in Business I could do whatever I wanted afterwards. So that is exactly what I did, I moved to Washington DC and attended American University and majored in Business Administration with a Marketing concentration, but I always felt that I wasn’t feeding my artistic side, and consequently enrolled myself in art classes adding a Studio Art minor, which included painting, sculpting, and multimedia. I also started my own fashion blog zaiddor.com where I shared my views, ideas, and anything that inspired me. During my final year in DC, I applied to Istituto Marangoni, Milan and was accepted, and at that point I knew that’s where I was meant to be and what I was meant to do. After receiving my degree in Fashion Design, I moved to London and attended Central Saint Martins, taking specialised courses in couture techniques and embroidery, as well as hand painting.

Can you share with us the brand DNA, and who the Zaid Farouki woman is?

With such a global background being an Arab American as well as being educated in Italian fashion techniques, I found inspiration in the fusion of cultures. Imagining a woman adorned by European clean cuts, true American liberties, and the ever-existent Arab dramatisation has helped me to create the global hybrid woman, a representative of a new globalised world and the woman whom I yearn to design for. A woman who is confident and unafraid to express herself. My pieces are all handmade and abide by couture techniques, embroidery, and finishing. Furthermore, all my prints are hand painted onto the fabric, making the wearer a walking piece of art.

What was the catalyst behind starting your own label?

I had to realise my alternate reality, so there wasn’t any other option than to start creating right away.

Tell us about your breakthrough into fashion, and how you have found the journey?

I got to learn about Dubai Design District in its beginning phases while I was still living in Milan, and I knew that I wanted to be part of the community. I have an Arab name, features, and identity, so if I had gone back to the US or stayed in Europe I would be called ‘The Arab American designer’, so I believed that moving back to my region and being part of the creative community was the best journey.

Why did you choose to create a fashion line based around art?

When I was at university and gave up on the finance side, I walked over to the art school and registered myself, studying sculpture, photography, painting, & drawing. Therefore, upon graduating and when I moved to fashion school, I felt my background in art needed to speak for itself, and by allowing the wearer to impose a point of view to the viewer, each piece had to have a purpose.

How do you combine both fashion with art?

My creations are wearable sculptures, light installations, and wearable paintings.

One unique aspect of your designs is that you hand produce all the artworks exclusively for one of a kind garments, why is the uniqueness important to you?

When I paint or sculpt a piece it is impossible to exactly duplicate it again, no matter how hard I try. Taking that concept into mind, and also understanding how much exclusivity means to my clients, uniqueness is key for my designs.

Do you always paint the artwork on a mannequin? Tell us why, and how you learnt this process?

Not necessarily, as each piece is painted in a different technique to achieve the desired look of how the paint falls and its reaction with that specific fabric. Most of our work is based on research and development, and therefore developing the piece takes the longest time to achieve the best technique and quality.

Have you always been passionate about Haute Couture and the highest class of fashion design?

I am obsessed with details, and one-off creations allow you to focus on the details, especially because you don’t have budget and retail price targets like Ready-to-Wear.

Would you look to branch out into Ready-to-Wear, or will you always look to continue with Haute Couture?

We actually just launched a menswear Ready-to-Wear collaboration with MINI Cooper last October. Moving on we will always have our creative one-of pieces as well as the Ready-to-Wear pieces.

Tell us about the global hybrid woman, and how all the cultures combine?

Having been exposed to so many cultures throughout my life has allowed me to imagine a hybrid human, a person that rises from combining different factors of their ancestral roots leading to this globalised jet setting powerful individual with nothing holding back their ambition and power.

Has your global background helped inspire your work heavily?

I am inspired by Arabs and the way they dress, the way they interact, and our culture as a whole. Moreover, I am inspired by the fashion brands and heritage that the Europeans managed to create. Lastly, there is this laissez-faire style that rises out of the US and the individuality and subgroups that are formed in the country.

Where does your core inspiration come from?

My life and experiences.

Do you have a muse?

To create a collection there is always a person that I imagine wearing the collection. I Imagine my creations with every breath and living moment, I envisage my woman in her surroundings moving to the sound of her own drums. Then one day my eyes encounter a beautiful subject across a pond, allowing me to forget the past and move forward wondering and studying her art of seduction, it’s features, and its ever-growing beauty in my eyes, and therefore a new muse and theme arise.

Is there anyone in particular who you would love to see wearing your designs?

No there isn’t anyone in specific, I love dressing any powerful Arab woman proud of her identity and heritage.

Tell us more about your current couture collection?

My latest creative collection is called ‘Revival’, and I imagined a woman walking through the hallways of a 16th century château with nothing other than candles lighting her path. As a descendant of the residents she explores the estate through the night discovering her heritage and identity. Throughout the night, candle wax drips onto her clothes as it is the only form of illumination, with her later emerging as a different woman, knowing her true stature and heritage. She is a great grandchild of an Arab queen that rose against her people, and as the social struggles of centuries come to a complete halt she realises that only she can uproot social norms and free herself from the shackles of male imposed measures. She despises her gender’s definition as receptors of male hand-me-downs, and as the night gets darker, resentment grows stronger. She declares herself free of male-imposed constraints and vows to pave a way for her own people, so as morning rises, she declares victory by stripping her former commanders of their powers by feminising their clothing and making them as daring as ever.

Can you share with us which piece is particularly special or memorable?

It’s very difficult to choose, as it’s like picking which child is your favourite. However, the pieces that I really enjoyed creating were a dress fully hand embroidered with green silk threads and inspired by candle drippings. To further emphasise the candles’ drops, the dress was fully hand painted with seven different colours in the back. It was then hand embellished with 1200 peacock feathers. I also enjoyed making the wedding veil which is like no other. This was made from a single golden thread which was turned into a rope and attached by hand to create a fishing net. Then 9000 Swarovski crystal pearls were hand embroidered onto the veil. Finally, a wearable sculpture adorned with a headpiece inspired by the falcon is memorable. There is a metal cage corset inspired by Arabic geometry and mathematics worn over a black leotard. First, she is spray painted by me and then as the lights turn on she turns into a light installation due to the shadows that the cage reflects on her clothing.

Do you enjoy the freedom of running your own brand?

I think this is an entrepreneurial dream that we feed to people. Creatively and decision wise you have the freedom of deciding on whatever you want and in which direction you see your business going, but at the end of the day launching your own company has no freedom, and on the contrary you must ensure that all bills and salaries are paid, you need to be present and set an example to your team, and put in the most effort as if it is your child. Yes, you have certain flexibilities concerning where you wish to invest your time, but when your name is on the door freedom as a business owner is barely present.

What drives you to continue creating new and inspired designs?

It’s a feeling which drives me, when I can’t design or create it is like a piece of me is being chipped away little by little.

Do you feel that your business education has helped with starting your business from scratch?

Yes of course, I wouldn’t have been able to manage without it!

After living in many different countries, why have you chosen to have your atelier in Dubai?

I am Arab, and my family relates to 5 different Arab countries. Dubai gave me the opportunity to move back to our region and launch from there, allowing me to build my brand and become part of the growing regional talent pool making this city a destination for design and fashion.

What are your feelings on how the fashion industry is growing in Dubai?

The industry in the region is growing as a whole. People are getting more into purchasing and endorsing regional talent, with designs and products that cannot be found anywhere else in the world.

What can we look forward to and expect in the future from you?

Creating more, being out there more, and opening the doors to be as creative as we can.

Finally, what is your ultimate goal to achieve in the next 5 years?

Not to only be recognised regionally but also showing signs of our global presence and maybe opening a second atelier in a different city.

By Eliza Scarborough

 

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