Buccellati, Family Matters

Lara Mansour   |   11-05-2016

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Buccellati’s Jewellery excellence is passed from generation to generation

Tradition, skills and excellence in handcrafting, together with the highest quality materials, have always been the core values of Buccellati, a long-established family firm. Reviving centuries-old goldsmith traditions, is central to the Italian jewellers, who have passed their skills and success through the generations. Buccellati is the Italian “bottega” of Renaissance times brought into the 21st century, Mario first, then Gianmaria, and now his son Andrea with his daughter Lucrezia. They combine a touch of tradition with culture to create jewellery of a true excellence, which is now recognised and admired worldwide for its timeless beauty. We chat to Andrea Buccellati, who since 2013 has stood at the helm of the company as President and Creative Director, together with his sister, Communication Director Maria Cristina Buccellati, about their legacy and refreshing the brand identity.

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ANDREA BUCCELLATI

What is special about Buccellati, and tell us what sets you apart from other brands?

The Buccellati craftsmanship and tradition began with my grandfather, and his very special sense of style. This unique style has remained central to the brand, together with the original techniques and systems that were used 300 years ago. The crafting of the jewellery was done by artisans and even now we still use the same artisans who create the pieces by hand. The most evident part is the engraving, which is something that we are renowned for and still do to this day. This workmanship is what makes Buccellati different and recognisable.

When did Buccellati come to the region?

About 32 years ago we started working with private clients in Dubai, beginning with connections that were made with the Royal family. However, it was only recently that we approached the Middle East market with a store.

What is a favourite design in the region?

Of course our signature honeycomb is always a very popular range, and our clients out here to favour this together with our intricate lace details pieces and the designs using different colour gold materials.

What is your view on high jewellery becoming more in demand?

I think people are now looking for more exquisite and thought through pieces. They want to be able to buy into the history of a brand and understand the techniques that have been used to create the masterpiece they are investing in. Luxury has been massified over the past years, and it is no longer just about the stone you are wearing. Customers want to be able to purchase an item that is individual, unique and will create an emotion. Luxury is when you are the only person to have something.

Buccellati designs are timeless, do they tend to be purchased as heirloom gifts?

Many of our clients tend to go for the eternity rings and pass them from mother to daughter. They are designed with our exquisite identity and will timelessly transfer through the generations.

Are you planning to look into your archives and revive any older pieces?

This isn’t a priority for us as we don’t like to reproduce items. Instead we hold onto the history of the brand through the way that the jewellery is created and always aim to produce unique, new pieces.

What stones are popular with your clients at the moment?

Opal is a very special stone which is loved by our America, Asian and Japanese clients. It is a stone that we have always used, and currently we have a beautiful necklace and ring made with it.

How challenging is it for you all working together as a family?

It is a passion rather than a job, which we do with our heart. This makes it an enjoyable process that we as a family live and breathe together. We all have very different roles that are equally as important. Andrea is very creative in terms of the product and Maria with the image, although we all discuss what we are doing together, but don’t interfere with each other.

Tell us about your collaboration with your daughter?

The Buccellati business has always been passed from generation to generation and this concept will continue to my daughter. This is how the brand still remains with the same style after 100 years, although it may be translated through slightly different feels over time. I now face the same challenge as my father did before me, in having to pass the reins to my daughter. We already discuss many details and share designs, and when she is here in Italy I show her how the workshop runs, so that she can understand how to translate her design to the artisan.

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MARIA CRISTINA BUCCELLATI

Where can we see the brand going?

We will always work with the point of view that the most important issue is to ensure that the quality and workmanship remains. As we expand we need to guarantee that we have a large enough team of skilled artisans to complete the larger production. Presently we are a strong brand in Europe, Japan and Malaysia, however we are aiming to develop and focus more on the Middle East and Asian market.

What is the Buccellati brand moto?

Timeless beauty.

Who is the Buccellati woman?

She is elegant, sophisticated and cultivated. She doesn’t need bling and flashy items to show off, but loves to translate her culture and passion for beauty.

What is your view on having a face of the brand, or do you think the jewellery talks enough on its own?

For our younger collections it works really well having the beautiful Elisa Sednaoui as an ambassador. However, it depends on the product that we are communicating. For the higher collections we feel that the women who is investing needs to be able to interpret the piece herself, and not be confused with an endorsement.

What would you like to tell our readers about Buccellati?

The most important thing to know, is that when you invest in our brand and own one of our pieces, you will have a unique piece of art that can be passed through the generations. We are so in love with our work and the history behind it, and this can be felt when you are wearing the jewellery.

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What can we look to see next from Buccellati?

At the moment we are focusing on our bangle bracelets using different techniques, as these are becoming one of our iconic pieces. We will also be concentrating on our important pieces as these can take up to 2 years to prepare and create.

Interviewed by Lara Mansour Sawaya

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