Bulgari CEO, talks about the challenges he faces, things he would change and how luxury is evolving.
Jean-Christophe Babin joined Bulgari, the 130-year-old Italian company, in 2013. Prior to that, he was CEO of TAG Heuer for 12 years. Born in France in 1959, both his parents were lawyers and from a young age he was interested in entrepreneurship, doing business and interacting with clients. To make this dream come true, he attended business school at HEC Paris (Hautes Études Commerciales) and was the youngest MBA graduating in his class.
When it comes to jewellery and watches he believes that it is essential to know your clientele. Transitioning from a world of watches (from TAG Heuer) to high jewellery was fairly smooth. He learned about the business of the luxurious Italian company, which was jewellery, accessories, perfumes and hotels. Although jewellery was a new industry for Babin he was quick to embrace its history, values and culture – not to mention the technical aspects of its craft.
What challenges you are facing in the industry?
Credibility is the ultimate challenge. Basically gold is gold, sapphire is sapphire and diamonds are diamonds, but what makes a difference is the way you combine them – that makes the real difference. There are great brands that have very good craftsmanship, but the main difference will always be the design.
We need to express ourselves very boldly and also have consistency in what people believe Bulgari is. Bulgari is Roman history; we are inspired by architecture and Italian art. You can create something innovative and bold, but it has got to fit with the expectation of our history. When I joined Bulgari, I began to study the company’s Roman origins, its history, its expertise, and see how that expertise translates into design. That is how I discovered its incredible competitive advantage.
What can we expect in 2017?
We will present on the same week as SIHH. There will be 17 collections; we will announce important news about men’s watches, also some news for ladies. During Basel in March, the focus will be for ladies but we will have news for men too.
There will be more of what exists already today. With Lucea, for instance, we will be enhancing the line to help shape and design what we already have. Even though we take inspiration from antique times, they are very new designs. The current Serpenti watches, that we have on the market, have been relaunched in 2010. It’s our youngest Swiss watch even though we have been making snake-style watches since the late ‘60s. Our emblematic and iconic watches were only born a few years ago. Compared to other watch brands, 80 per cent are relying on icons that were made more than 25 years ago. Also, Bulgari Bulgari is still very popular.
What is your vision for the brand?
The vision is ambitious – we want to be the most desired luxury brand in the world. I want it to be irresistible. It’s a combination of getting the aesthetics right and consistent with our DNA. For ladies, the Serpenti bag and Serpenti necklace has to go well with the watch. Our craftsmanship and design makes it an irresistible brand.
LVCEA Haute Joaillerie
Did you expect the Serpenti to be a massive success?
I think no one expected such success. The challenge now is to take it to the next level. Why keep it still very exclusive? We need to multiply the creativity around the Serpenti without losing the initial idea behind it, which is what we have been doing this year with the jewellery. Serpenti is the new interpretation of the snake; it is not full bodied anymore, instead we focus on the head and the eyes of the snake, and this later translated into watches. The challenge is to reinvent, but keep the initial concept. If we do this, we have a lot of potential to increase our desirability.
Serpenti Joaillerie
Serpenti Spiga
Serpenti Tubogas
Serpenti
Where do you think luxury is going?
Luxury is broadening its scope, it is broadening itself from extraordinary objects, which are very much like art. A necklace is art and a one of a kind piece. Mankind has existed as long as jewellery has. The idea of the serpentine dates back 3000 years ago. Jewellery and mankind are ultimately bonded. However, luxury is not just about objects. People will spend money not only on a watch or a piece of jewellery, but also on a beautiful vacation. They will pay for an experience and travel can be an indulgence.
With technology, people won’t be as loyal as they use to be in the past. They receive more images and messages on a daily basis. People are far more open-minded. The possibility to travel the world and discover things are more accessible. As a brand, you need to be more clever than ever. One of the challenges is to raise the level of surprise and be more experiential with luxury. Jewellery is a multisensory experience. The point is to create emotions that you will remember forever.
A holiday can be a memorable experience that you will never forget. You remember it because you had the best time in your life. Both jewellery and a travel experiences are expressions of modern luxury.
What are you wearing on your wrist?
I wearing the Octo Skeleton. I love the look – it has a matte alligator strap and it is a modern design. I love the weight too, because I don’t feel it on my wrist and it’s very discrete and light.
Do you like to travel?
As a CEO, one of your most valuable assets is to be open-minded and to seize new ideas by being receptive to the outside world. Traveling has opened my mind to different cultures, to the arts and to different ways of life. I went backpacking around the world before rushing into my first job. When you travel, you learn to respect and accept differences. It helps you to be compassionate and understanding.
What’s your morning routine before work?
I have coffee, reset my mind and listen to music. I love music.
What music do you listen to?
I love music from the ’70s such as King Crimson and Pink Floyd, but classical music speaks to my heart – Mozart, Beethoven, Bach and Chopin.
How do you define your style?
I am very casual and informal. I like mixing and matching items. I don’t think about my style; I’m quite spontaneous and I don’t plan in advance.
Three things you hate?
I’m not sure I have three, but losing time is the first thing. I don’t like to be in places where I feel I am wasting time, so I don’t want to be surrounded by people that don’t add value to my life in some way. I’d rather be alone. Finally, we are all human beings and I don’t like those who distinguish themselves by their title or power; I like to think we are all equal.
Favourite city that you love?
I feel good each time I go to Hong Kong. Ever since I first went, at 18 years old, I loved the lifestyle and the energy. I love Asia in general for its culture and dynamic energy.
What book are you reading at the moment?
A book on humankind that is written recently. Sapiens: A Brief History of Humankind by Yuval Noah Harari. It’s amazing because he writes the history of mankind with a lot of different perspectives. He’s a historian and anthropologist. He also writes from a political angle – it’s very interesting.
How do you want the world to remember you?
As a simple person full of joy.
Are you a happy person?
Yes, deep inside I am, very much. Everyone has regrets in life and if I were to die tomorrow there are a few things I’d say on my death bed.
If you could correct something you have done in your life what would it be?
I’d gift myself (as a child) to have learned a musical instrument that I would appreciate now. It frustrates me that I cannot play an instrument well.
What’s your personal motto?
‘Carpe diem.’ I do not stress about much. I think sooner or later there will be a solution to everything.
What really upsets you?
I am a really easygoing person, it would take a lot to get me angry. I suppose, if I was betrayed by a friend that would upset me.
What do you think of the Middle East?
I love the Middle East. I feel like it is part of Asia because of its energy, spirit and creativity. The contrast of the sand dunes with skyscrapers; it’s a world full of colour and contrast. It’s a magical part of the world.
If you could be granted three wishes by a genie, what would you wish for?
To ensure my kids will be happy forever; to always have good health because that is 50 per cent of your happiness, and to find a solution to the save the planet.
Describe yourself in three words?
Energetic, joyous and determined. The lessons I learned from my parents were precious. They taught me to be ambitious, demanding of myself and that in life I could only count on myself.
By Lara Mansour Sawaya
