As Alessandro Sartori returned to Milan with his new position as artistic director of the Ermenegildo Zegna Group, it was more sentimental homecoming than first day on the job. His connection with the company goes back a long way, and the reunion will no doubt continue far into the future.
Sartori was born in Trivero, where Ermenegildo built the family’s first mill in 1910. He then joined the company out of design school in 1989, left, came back to spend eight years as designer of Z Zegna until 2011, when he moved to Paris for Berluti. However, with his return comes a new title of artistic director, which suggests a far broader remit of creative administration than designer. He sums this up as, ‘combining my previous design job with the idea of co-ordinating and putting together the work of a beautiful team.’ This is a huge step for the Zegna Group, as it is the first time so much power has been handed over to one person, amalgamating under one title responsibilities that were covered by a handful of people before.
We travelled to the Ermenegildo Zegna Global Store opening in London, which was not only an occasion to unveil the first project of Alessandro Sartori since his appointment, a unique bespoke shoe collection, but also a look inside the newly renovated flagship boutique on New Bond Street. The store was first opened in 1987, and now after a 20-month renovation project, the reinvented and expanded store reimagines what a luxury boutique should be in the 21st century. The finished store is the result of a fruitful partnership between Zegna and architect Peter Marino, whose design for the 600m2 space echoes the brand’s use of quality materials, integrity, and modern style. Rich colours, materials and fabrics are used throughout the store to immerse the visitor in the true world of Zegna and its history. In keeping with Zegna’s approach to fabric and tailoring, each design detail is considered and realised to the highest quality.
Here, Alessandro shared with us about how the company is being moved towards a more one to one approach. However, with a new updated spin, as he explains, ‘I think that more than made to measure, personalisation is the future. This store is the first milestone into this new level of personalisation. Today is more than just tailoring, we have sports jackets which can be personalised and that part of the business is booming, and we have to keep increasing the number of people in the atelier to keep up with the demand for this.’ Of course, he understands that the DNA and heritage of the brand remain paramount, and it is about combining this with design to maintain a modern approach. ‘I don’t pretend to know the recipe, but I think that there is a way of keeping the craft if you respect the construction of the pieces, together with pairing with a modern silhouette. You can meet at a good point with the two components, the craft with modernity, the design with the artisanal expertise.’ This brand identity is designed for an international man who doesn’t have a specific age. Alessandro sees the Zegna man running over four of five generations, not just two like a father and son. ‘They may not have the same identity and personality, but some common points, such as a strong sense of style, authentic values, and Italian taste.’
Inspired by nine of his friends, Alessandro’s bespoke shoe collection, which is debuted at the store opening, has been handcrafted by the English shoemakers Gaziano & Girling. He explains how these bespoke shoes are completely hand made from scratch, with a shoe last made from raw wood, before the shoe is moulded and stitched entirely by hand. From the laced casual to the biker boot, the collection is a complete range designed for the modern man. The shoes can only be purchased from the new flagship store and each one will be made for the wearer in this entirely handmade process. Alessandro finds the approach for designing shoes very similar to that with fashion materials, however it is when he gets to the technical stage that the two differ, with footwear being far more complex, made in different steps with different layers. Here Alessandro Sartori introduces the nine characters who inspired the shoes, and each tell a unique story of an authentic and style conscious man.
