Friday brought a fresh and exciting day to Milan Fashion week with shows from Versace, Tod’s, Marni, Etro and more.
As always Tod’s brought Italian timeless chic to the runway for its autumn/winter 19 collection. An autumnal colour palette of rich tones made up slick shapes in luxe fabrics. Leather was key with the fabric coming in various colours and styles. This collection was simple and classically Tod’s but felt completely relevant for today’s woman. Of course the accessories were on point. There were bucket bags in various colours and prints and the ladylike D-styling bag in endless shades and sizes. Calf and knee-length boots provided comfort but also style, while the classic loafer was embellished with gold plaques. Perhaps our favourite addition was the leopard print, which added an edginess to the looks.
There was great anticipation in what was Daniel Lee’s first collection for Bottega Veneta. Set in a bright and airy greenhouse style tent, the location gave way to the fine details of the collection. Geometric lines were highlighted in luxurious fabrics that came in warm tones. With a somewhat futuristic twist on leather shapes and lines were laser-cut into fabrics for the ultimate biker-chic look. There were also some menswear looks which as well wouldn’t look out of place on the back of a motorbike, with leather leggings ripped woollen jumpers and longline coats. There was intricate weaving in the form of the maxi intreccio pattern and even the odd sequin dress and spash of colour to bring some femininity to the collection. With this collection Lee respected the heritage of the house but put his own stamp on it.
If there’s one thing Etro does best it’s the paisley print. Veronica Etro took inspiration from her family’s archive of 18th-century paisley scarves which was given a modern twist in rich autumnal tones. Printed pieces were juxtaposed against black separates and the print even made its way onto bags and shoes. Boho dresses were belted at the waist with thick black belts and worn with biker boots and large earrings. There was heavy embroidery, crocheted lace and rich velvet fabrics. Towards the second half of the show things took a turn to Cool Britannia. With logo jumpers, stripes and checks. There were big bows, velvet trousers, neck scarves and collared dresses, all vibrant and bold in their own individual way. This was a show of mash ups and unlikely mixes that turned out to be effortlessly seamless.
Pyjamas and pleats, checks and silky fabrics with a punk edge were the basis of Marni’s autumn/winter 19 collection. Dark lips, black accessories and full fringes gave a gothic edge to this collection which, for the first half was mostly black, white and red when it came to the colour palette. Digital prints were bold and striking. For the second half of the show colour became bolder and brighter with red and orange tones adding some welcoming fun. This was a daring collection.
One of the most highly anticipated shows of every season is Versace. Donatella had been teasing the collection through her Instagram account for the last few days and she didn’t disappoint. Speaking before the show Versace said: “A little bit of imperfection is the new perfection.” And it was with this in mind that she designed the autumn/winter collection. Once again we were taken to the era of nineties grunge, which was given a Versace-twist with the classic yellow print. Shoes came in the form of lace up boots, while bags were either belted onto the waist or handheld clutches. There were knits finished with safety pins, slinky pencil skirts hemmed with lace, bra-style corsets worn over clothes and unusual layering. It’s safe to say this collection was the unexpected but it had strong links to the brand’s heritage.