The Haider Ackermann Spring 2018 show was steady and measured, marching to its own rhythm. As models walked down the runway towards the photographers, the structure of the show had the models in mostly black turn left, and the models in mostly white turn right, giving off a controlled and organised vibe.
Signature Ackermann looks were present, from low-rise tapered pants to loose vests and longline jackets. The prints, although simple in nature, were executed with originality, with portions looking almost peeled off to reveal new versions of the prints underneath.
As the show progressed, the initial rhythmic thumping of the music gradually sped up and the opening structure began to deconstruct. Pops of colour were injected in the form of rust coloured track pants or a lilac matching jacket-trouser combo. Sweaters were slung around necks instead of worn normally, giving a sense of undress and coming undone. As the music grew faster still, a few looks for women were woven into play in a very androgynous guise.
Of the show, Ackermann said, ‘it was little bad boys in search of themselves. The bad boys are getting mature and they’re trying to straighten up.’ But let’s hope Ackermann, who tends to put forward designs that mirror himself, doesn’t lose his bad boy edge completely.
