At the time of his death in 1997, Gianni Versace was one of the most famous fashion designers in the world. In less than twenty years he had created an international company that put Italy on the fashion map and forged an unrivalled reputation for luxury and glamour. Twenty years later and his sister Donatella celebrated his life and works with a collection in tribute to him for Versace SS18.
The retrospective delved into the archives, focusing on Gianni’s most glamorous catwalk moments, from the chainmail dresses at the brand’s couture show in 1997, to the iconic baroque print of the late 1980s.
‘Each year Gianni lived he lived to the fullest: throughout his career he created collections that to this day are considered a cultural point of reference and inspiration to many. It would be impossible to commemorate Gianni’s entire world in a single collection, therefore, I have decided to honour his legacy with his beloved prints and dazzling metal mesh.’ Donatella Versace
The show opened with the glamour of baroque and leather in a palette of black, white, and gold, together with a sea of pastel body-hugging gowns reminiscent of the AW97 show and a rivetted dress which echoed the famous safety pin dress, while shoulder pads harked back to the 80s. Rather than music tracks, instead there was a soundtrack thanking and proclaiming love for Gianni, celebrating the genius.
Pop art prints brought in the 90s switching from the muted pastels to fluorescent colour pop concoctions worn with leotards and oversized earrings. The jewel-encrusted dress emblazoned with Warhol’s Marilyn Monroe prints, originally worn by supermodel Linda Evangelista in the SS91 Pop Art collection was revived in the form of dresses and matching thigh high glittering boots.
Following the finale, the lights dimmed before the famous metal mesh dress was unveiled. Using Gianni’s trademark technique, turning chainmail into a fabric so fine it moves like glittering silk, the supermodels of the 90s modelled the gowns in a glittering finale. To a standing ovation, Donatella led Cindy Crawford, Naomi Campbell, Claudia Schiffer, Carla Bruni and Helena Christensen down the catwalk.
This was a gloriously retro collection, full of life and glamour which mirrored the way that Gianni celebrated each day of his life as though it was extraordinary.
