Tell us more about the design DNA of Dior timepieces, and what sets you apart from other watch brands.
The Dior timepieces vehicle the idea of the Dior Haute Couture and Ready-to-Wear which means a combination of timeless elegance, extreme craftsmanship and innovative ideas as well as a more daywear wardrobe expressing the colours and the modernity of the season.
You’ve been with Dior since 2008. How did it feel to become President , and what’s an objective you are still aiming to achieve?
My main challenge was to put the timepieces in line with the other activities of the house. The Dior VIII Grand Bal collection represents the idea I had of a timepieces collection at Dior: thanks to the development of our Dior inverted calibre which places a functional oscillating weight on top of the dial, but, before all, allowing our Parisian studio to create new designs every year and in line with the heritage of Mr Dior who was passionate about balls. Indeed, the oscillating weight represents the swirl of a ball gown so it had to look like a ball petticoat (being open-worked, set, made of feathers and made in lace).
What do you think customers are looking for nowadays and who is the Dior Timepieces customer?
Customers are looking for audacity, refinement and sincerity. The Dior Timepieces customer is mostly a woman, buying a piece for herself after a love at first sight.
Tell us more about the Basel novelties and how the collection was received.
2015 is a turning point for us, because more than ever, we are proposing haute couture pieces through all our Dior VIII Grand Bal watches (limited editions and one-of a kind) and Dior Grand Soir (only one-of-a-kind) but also new ready-to-wear pieces through a new seasonal Dior VIII Montaigne collection in phase with the outfits of the show and new audacious La Mini D de Dior.
Clients were really and particularly receptive to the following novelties:
Dior VIII Grand Bal “Fil d’or” (88 ex limited edition) which was born from the collaboration with one of the last French bobin lace-maker.
Dior VIII Grand Bal “Cancan” (88 ex limited edition) whose feather oscillating weight dances on a 2 raws feather dial.
Dior VIII Grand Bal Pièce Unique “Envol” (one-of-a-kind pieces) whose scarab beetle marquetry mixed with an hypnotic oscillating weight vehicule the modernity of Raf Simon’s couture collections
Dior Grand Soir “Frou Frou” (one-of-a-kind pieces) whose sophisticated 3D dials evoke ribbons, ruffles and fabrics…
Dior VIII Montaigne Spring Summer and Fall Winter whose combinations of colours are so close to Raf Simons’ ready-to-wear collections
La Mini D de Dior whose degrade colours bring a rainbow effect around the wrist.
Chiffre Rouge C05 (the only masculine collection) who is equipped with a Zenith 682 Elite for a dual timezone.
How do you assess the luxury watchmaking industry now in comparison with the last 5 years? What are the obstacles and challenges that you are facing?
This industry is facing a re-birth thanks to the arrival of connected watches. Ultimate timepieces won’t be challenged in the future because we don’t care they give time. People buy them for the beauty of the piece. For our affordable lines: we have to be different.
What’s the strategy you adopt to stay ahead of competition?
Stay the same proposing exclusive pieces in phase with the couture universe and bring fresh air into the more affordable timepiece business thanks to a seasonal rythm. Being part of a House like Dior allows us to imagine our timepieces as a complete wardrobe.
To what extent the fact that your relationship with the customer, at some level, is greater than just an economic transaction? Do you believe that luxury is an emotion?
Yes definitely. When you buy a Dior timepiece, you buy a part of the universe that is translated in our piece. Can you imagine another House asking a lace-maker to create a very important part of the movement (the oscillating weight)? We made it and this kind of collaboration is what we like. When you buy a Dior VIII Montaigne Spring Summer 2015, you can feel the atmosphere of a Dior show. You don’t only buy a Dior timepiece, you buy the Dior Spirit.
Tell us about the synergy between the fashion design and the timepieces design?
Our studio is based in Avenue Montaigne and works also for other lines with Raf Simons so they are really well informed of what is going on in the House. This allows us to be very reactive to create seasonal collections. Indeed, till the last moment before the show, an outfit can be cancelled so we absolutely need to study the feasibility beforehand but we need also to be very fast in production right after the show, having in mind that the production rythms for RTW and Timepieces are absolutely not the same.
To what extent you believe endorsing a celebrity serves the brands performance in terms of selling?
Charlize Theron was our ambassadress for the launch of Dior VIII. Of course it creates an immediate impact, especially with such an actress. But after, the House is strong enough to promote the line by itself.
What are the couture codes that we can see in the Dior timepieces?
We are translating couture in different manners:
- The Design of all our Dior VIII Grand Bal oscillating weights representing pleats, plumetis, embroideries, lace… the design of our dials especially in the Dior Grand Soir collection (3D Frou-Frou dials, Origami dials…)
- The Material. The feathers oscillating weights for Dior VIII Grand Bal “Cancan”, the pleated satin straps for Dior Grand Soir.
- The same idea of modernity in Raf Simons designs, you will see in the Dior VIII Grand Bal Piece Unique “Envol”.
- The fact that our “linings” are really refined as well (lacquered oscillating weights, crystal sapphire glass, label inside the strap).
- The colours of the collections in line with the colours used at Dior.
What’s in the pipeline for Dior timepieces?
You will discover it during next Baselworld Fair.
What’s your personal motto?
Are you sure we cannot make it ? Let’s try.
What’s on your wrist from Dior watches?
A Dior VIII Grand Bal Plissé soleil, La D de Dior 19mm or a Chiffre Rouge sand colour, depending on the days.
Interviewed by Lara Mansour Sawaya
