With L’Afshar, Lilian Afshar has built an accessories brand focused on material, form and a strong visual identity. In a region where a new generation of designers is reshaping the language of luxury, her work stands apart for treating accessories as objects to be both worn and collected.
Since launching L’Afshar in 2013 with just five pieces, the brand has grown into a globally recognised name, known for its sculptural clutches that sit between accessory and objet d’art. What began as a prototype during her time at Esmod has expanded into a wider creative universe, now including furniture and objets d’art alongside her signature designs.
Working primarily with acrylic, a material she describes as balancing structure and light, Afshar has developed a design language that feels both architectural and instinctive. Each piece begins as raw material, shaped and refined with a jeweller’s eye for detail, resulting in precise, considered forms.
Here, Afshar reflects on the evolution of her brand, the role of craftsmanship and material innovation, and the realities of growing a business in an ever-changing industry.
What first inspired you to launch L’Afshar, and how has your vision evolved since those early days?
I was initially inspired by a desire to create something sculptural yet functional. Pieces that felt like objects of art but could still be worn and used. There was a gap for something clean, architectural, and material-focused. Over time, that vision has evolved beyond handbags into a wider world of design, including homeware and furniture. The core has remained the same, but it’s grown into a more complete expression of the brand’s identity and aesthetic.
Your designs have become instantly recognisable. How would you describe the design philosophy behind L’Afshar today?
The design philosophy behind L’AFSHAR today is rooted in creating sculptural, timeless pieces that sit between art and function. I’m drawn to clean lines, architectural forms, and a sense of balance where each piece feels considered from every angle. Materials play a central role, particularly acrylic and resin, which allow me to explore light, texture, and structure in a very distinct way. The goal is always to create something refined, impactful, and modern, with a lasting presence.
How has Dubai influenced your creativity and the growth of your brand?
Dubai has given me the freedom to have an idea and act on it almost immediately. Whether it was creating my first prototype in Al Quoz 13 years ago and then starting the business or taking a much bigger leap in 2019 by opening our own factory.
Being based here in Dubai has allowed me to experiment freely and scale the brand internationally, while still maintaining a strong connection to where everything is made. The energy, diversity, and ambition of Dubai constantly push me to think bigger and evolve creatively.
The Middle East has seen a significant rise in homegrown luxury brands. How do you see the regional fashion and accessories industry evolving?
I love seeing it. There’s so much creativity in this region, and it truly deserves to be highlighted globally. What feels different now is the confidence. Designers are building strong, distinct identities rooted in their own culture, rather than looking outward for validation.
Our region is an incredibly strong market, and it’s been truly powerful to witness the level of support and engagement from clients here. They’re no longer looking abroad to meet their needs. The same applies to tourism; when I travel, I’m always drawn to discovering designers that are unique to that city.
L’Afshar has gained international recognition and a global clientele. What do you think resonates most with customers both in and outside the region?
I think what resonates most is offering something truly unique and distinctive. There’s a strong sense of identity in the designs; you can always spot a L’AFSHAR piece.
It’s that balance between sculptural form, materiality and a clear point of view that connects with customers both within the region and internationally
How important is craftsmanship and material innovation in your design process?
Craftsmanship and material innovation are integral to my design process. Acrylic and resin are complex materials with many limitations, but that challenge is exactly what drives me to push their boundaries and explore new possibilities with my team.
At the same time, every piece is handmade in our Dubai studio, ensuring a sense of precision and individuality. It’s that balance between innovation and craftsmanship that defines the brand.
What have been some of the biggest challenges in building an independent luxury brand from the region?
One of the biggest challenges has been growing and scaling the brand from the region. International buyers and department stores have become more cautious about adding brands from here, especially as costs like shipping, duties, and logistics have risen significantly in recent years. At the same time, the industry here is still relatively young, and the region isn’t yet fully recognised for its craftsmanship, which adds another layer of challenge when building credibility internationally.
As a female founder in the region, what advice would you offer to emerging designers and entrepreneurs?
We need to stop glamorising entrepreneurship and the whole “girlboss” narrative. Running a business requires real resilience, vision and grit, but that label often creates pressure to constantly perform and overachieve. In reality, 99 per cent of the time, it’s about navigating challenges and constantly adapting to whatever comes your way. It’s so important to maintain a calm, regulated nervous system while building a business, and to have an outlet. Otherwise, you risk compromising your health.
What inspires you and when are you at your most creative?
I’m often most creative on a plane, I get a rush of energy and ideas seem to flow effortlessly, only without the kids, though!
Inspiration comes from many places. Some days it’s in the simplest details, like observing how petals are naturally formed, and other days it’s immersing myself in different cultures or getting lost in an antique market
What’s the professional motto that you live by?
A lot can change in a day, for the better.
Are there any new categories, collaborations or expansions you are currently exploring?
Having two categories already is essentially like running two separate businesses. For the next few years, my focus is on rediscovering and expanding the homeware and furniture category. Something I launched six years ago, but which naturally fell onto the back burner after having two children back-to-back.
What’s in the pipeline for L’Afshar this year?
A much stronger focus on homeware, as it’s a category showing significant growth. I also want to lean more into in-person events with my clients and community. I’m seeing a real appetite for connection and shared experiences.
By Lindsay Judge
