I’ve seen Rome through your designs in your latest couture collection, tell us how it inspires you and how challenging is it to keep Rome eternal in your designs yet avoid repetition?
“Rome is such a wonderful city, so full of life. It is an important part of Valentino history and so it is impossible to not be inspired by it. Some of the romance and details found in our work can be attributed to the essence of the city and its vibrant diversity. Rome is the city where we work and get inspired everyday by its many hidden corners full of beauty and history. But Rome is also a city in constant transformation, which is experiencing a wave of creativity. We are happy to live surrounded by such inspiring diversity. Rome is and will always be a fundamental part of Valentino, because Valentino is Rome.”
Almost 7 years since you’ve held the creative direction at Maison Valentino and we are obviously seeing the re-invention of couture. What does couture mean to you and how do you see couture today at a time where most claimed “couturiers” are commercially driven only?
“Haute Couture is a private luxury experience, a unique emotion, timeless but contemporary at the same time. It is like a dream nourished and filled with new ideas, constant experimentations, intense research and individual passion. Couture is not only the expression of the high craftsmanship and tailoring which make “Made in Italy” alive, but it’s the pure essence of our Maison and we do the best to protect this special universe.
We know that most of the employees at your atelier are young dynamic talents, to what extent you think Couture requires fresh eyes at a time where at some ateliers you find employees that are there since 30 years?
We strongly believe in teamwork and working towards common goals. We have the support of a great team, some have been working for the Maison for over 30 years with an incredible experience and some have joined the atelier only a few years ago. The premieres and the seamstresses working in Valentino hold an immense wealth, which we want to transfer to the new generations. Preserve the sartorial knowledge is a long process that requires passion and time. Valentino school of Couture, recently opened in our Roman atelier, has the aim to pass down the Maison savoir faire to the youngsters, preserve its memory and the high standard of craftsmanship that Valentino is globally known for, yet convey the freshness and the energy that only new generations can bring.
Elegance, Grace and Modern Femininity are three pillars we always see in your designs, can you tell us what each one means to you?
We believe that beauty and elegance have always been essential elements of the Valentino vision. Our aim, as Creative Directors, is to use the codes of the Maison in a more contemporary way, more effortless. In this sense, elegance becomes more personal and with our clothes we want to express the subtle nuances of grace and femininity, being able to talk to different type of woman.
While watching your designs sway on models on catwalks, have you ever said, Oh I wish I did more on this or less on that?
“We both are two perfectionists and we oversee each detail of a collection until the last minute. Nothing is left behind. Our idea is clear since the start of the creative process and our effort is to achieve a natural balance among emotions and technical perfection.
Can we tell our readers about the design process of a Valentino look, the stages from the inspiration, to sketching to the show?
“It all starts from an initial idea. The inspiration can be a book, a photograph, a piece of art, a fabric or a colour. Each element is an essential part to unfold the final story we want to describe and the emotions we want to convey through the dress. It’s like assembly piece of a movie”
You are a team, how does that serve you in your work and the outcome?
“Our work is always the result of a great team effort. Our aim is to establish a positive synergy among the team, making sure everyone takes part in the creative and development process of every project. Each individual with his own specific characteristics and talent is taken into great consideration. Thanks to this diversity our work is always stimulating and personally and professionally inspiring”
Two Romans that love fashion, art, photography and film. Answer the following what fashion era you love most, what kind of art attracts and inspires you, what kind of movies you like and again what era?
There are so many pieces of art and eras in history that inspire us for its emotional impact on society and unsurpassed creativity. It’s hard to mention only one. In our collections there are always different elements which inspire us and took us to an emotional journey through art, poetry, culture and historic eras.
In our last SS 16 collection, for example, we took a journey to the beginning of time, through a primitive beauty full of emotions and spirituality.
The earthy tones of Africa, the ethic embroideries, the leather cutout garments of the Roman gladiators; all have been equally inspiring to unfold the story we had in mind.
What do you feel when you look back on when you did your first couture show in 2009?
It was an unforgettable experience. Haute Couture represents the essence of Valentino’s DNA and for us it was a honour to express the values of the Maison with our vision. Being able to express our constant research and experimentation, yet protecting the Maison’s heritage, tradition and the craftsmanship was, and still is, an overwhelming feeling.
What are the couture and RTW codes that redefine Valentino today?
The essence and the core values of the Maison are firmly rooted in our language but today our aim is to reinterpret it in a more contemporary way, like telling a classic tale in a modern language. Our style is feminine with an edgy feel. We like unexpected contrasts.
How do you think the Internet and social media have changed the faces of fashion?
Social media changed the perception of fashion. As soon as a runway show is over, thousands of Images are available on the Internet to people all over the world. The drastic change in communication instantaneously allows people to participate, follow and discuss any trend and fashion news. A form of modern democracy based on the emotional response, that lets everyone be part of something that was initially exclusive to an elite. Of course this has a greatly influenced the face of fashion, but we believe it is important to stay true to our roots and identity at all times.
Some designers are infusing technology with couture, to what extent you believe couture is emotional and do you think deviating from traditional craftsmanship leaves the piece with no soul? “We are truly interested in technological innovation and we love exploring new ways of expressing ourselves. Technology is constantly changing our job and our designs. The fabrics, the textures and the techniques used in the collection underline the surprising liaisons between natural and technological weaving in a continuous interplay of materials. This evolution perfectly matches our vision. We like to mix classic beauty with the unexpected.
How hard is it managing work and family for both of you?
Our private lives are extremely important to us. It is crucial to balance the two things. We believe that the quality of our work also depends a great deal on the quality of our life. We are both very lucky because our companions and families support us in every moment. Behind every choice we made in our careers, our families have always encouraged and supported.
How do you want the world to remember you?
We are constantly developing our personal vision of Valentino, by staying closely attuned to the world around us. Music, movies and books are a great source of inspirations as well as the people we encounter. Nevertheless our goal is to maintain the Maison couture codes and develop them, implement them, expand them in all our creations. We would like to transmit this open-mindedness to the brand and being remembered to take the Maison historic concept of beauty into the future.”
Interviewed by Lara Mansour Sawaya
