HM Queen Rania Al Abdullah gave a powerful speech during the HeForShe IMPACT Summit in New York as part of the UN General Assembly.

World leaders along with UN Women Global Goodwill Ambassador Anne Hathaway gathered yesterday to analyse the challenges that face women around the globe with the Jordanian royal specifically focusing on Arab women. She said:

“Through civil war and armed conflict, unemployment and forced displacement, Arab women are digging deep to hold their families together in the most testing conditions.”

 

“And, yet, they bridge that gap with a spirit of steel and a will to match. I’m so proud that amidst this instability, we’ve seen strides in women’s health and education.”

She acknowledged the effect that HeForShe movement has had around the world and said:

“As someone who travels between East and West, hearing women’s stories, I can tell you: when it comes to the issue of women’s empowerment, distances shrink and differences fade.”

She spoke of meeting Jordanian women changing the ‘landscape’ of their labour force and a platform created in 2010 for women to help showcase their skills and find jobs. However, her majesty also noted that there is work to be done with our region caming last in the World Economic Forum’s recent Gender Gap Report. She said:

“For all those standing, many more are not yet on their feet. So, I want to urge you: reach over borders and boundaries. Pull up women weighed down by hurdles you’ll never know. Light up the Arab chapter of HeForShe. Because when everyone is for she, we’re greater than the sum of our parts.”

 

Audemars Piguet announced the end of the 19-year-long collaboration with Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie, also known as SIHH.

Audemars Piguet.

“The evolving nature of the watchmaking industry is such that Audemars Piguet’s business model is changing and the Manufacture has decided to explore new directions in order to forge closer and more direct relationships with end-clients and watch enthusiasts worldwide,” reads a statement from the watchmaker. “Audemars Piguet would like to thank the SIHH for such an enriching partnership and wishes them all the best for the future.”

The manufacture from Le Brassus will attend the SIHH for the last time in 2019, and they won’t be the only ones as Richard Mille also withdraw from the annual fair held in Geneva.

Richard Mille shoot for A&E December 2017 Issue.

 

“The Richard Mille brand has developed considerably its international distribution network over the last few years, notably by opening a growing number of dedicated mono-brand boutiques. In turn, it has drastically reduced its representation through multi-brand retailers in order to qualitatively satisfy a constant increase in demand,” the company said in a statement. “Consequently, the brand’s presence at exhibitions no longer corresponds to its strategy for exclusive and selective distribution. It is with deep regret therefore that we are announcing our withdrawal from the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) following the 2019 edition.”

This leaves us to wonder what the prestigious trade fair will look like in the future with the customer tendency to attend shows, talks and presentations – such as Dubai Watch Week. The more intimate environment can lead to a closer relationship between these historical watchmakers and their target audience.

Alessandro Dell’Acqua showed the Rochas SS19 collection at the Theatre National de Chaillot that acted as the perfect setting for the artistically elegant collection.

The designer has had a busy few weeks with his No.21 show in Milan and unveiling of his collaboration with Tod’s, and yet he had time to work with fascinating fabrics and textures to create a mesmerizing collection.

He started with leopard print that he worked into a relaxed coats and statement accessories before introducing them in glamorous jacquard versions with touches of gold for evening. Then, came the core of collection focusing on midnight black. Draped silk dresses had elements of understated sensuality, while the boxy jacket and full length gown showcased structured. One off-shoulder dress in particular exuded mystery and elegance in a beautifully refined black leopard print dévoré.

He broke it up with a couple of pastel pieces that showcased his play on texture like ostrich feathers, while the sunflower yellow packed a punch and lifted the whole collection. In fact, we will be seeing a lot of this sunshine hue next season.

Dell’Acqua has managed to deliver strong couture silhouettes for everyday in a modern and wearable way.

Today John Galliano presented his first co-ed show for Maison Margiela during the SS19 season of Paris Fashion Week.

Over the last few years, the fashion houses have seen the importance of unifying the voices of their collections to establish a single language for all their customers to understand – so it’s no surprise that there’s been an influx of joined men’s and women’s lines meeting on the runway.

Not only does it help to establish a coherent message, but it also makes sense for production and for when the pieces arrive in stores. Of course here Galliano is was more interested in what ‘gender’ means today, as well championing modern day rebels who dress as they please – the new role models.

Hence there was plenty of ‘girls borrowing from the boys’ and vice versa with one male model stepping out in a grey jacket inspired by the shape of a swimsuit that was worn over a tulle dress, meanwhile one of the female models stomped out in heavy duty boots that were accompanied by a black cape decorated in white piping.

Setting boys in heels and girls in masculine tailoring aside and focusing a little less on the political message – even though it has great importance in the realm of fashion – there were sparks of design mastery to admire. The coats were cut with such precision that they looked as equally hard as they did soft – we have our eye on the elongated pink trench. The opulent jacquard gold dresses and trousers were given a modern twist with black jacket and metallic boots, while the blazers were just splendid.

A girl in boys clothing still feels a little bit more palatable than the other way round, but Galliano has always been a man not afraid to express his views and when he does it through fashion, it’s truly inspiring.

To mark 50 years in fragrance creation, Diptyque set up their first-ever pop-up boutique dedicated exclusively to personal fragrance at The Dubai Mall.

Have you ever wanted to dive further into what it takes to create a luxury scent? The temporary space let’s you learn how the senses are united with revisiting the world of haute perfumerie.

The celebration is in honor of 1968, the year the brand introduced its first eau de toilette – L’Eau – the first niche, genderless perfume. The boutique embodies the heritage as a perfumer and artist, and evolution over the past 50 years, by creating unique and interactive sensory and shopping experiences along with events, workshops and limited edition merchandising. See what to expect below.

Olfactory Scent Journey
Unique sensory immersions inspired by Diptyque’s iconic fragrances, with each immersion capturing the distinct narrative that has inspired the creation of the scent.

The Artist’s Box
Experience the entire collection of the eau de parfum and eau de toilette with unparalleled scent diffusion technology.

Infamous Oval Designs
Surrounding the artist box, the wall will display a collection of 50 different postcards created with Diptyque’s iconic imagery – oval designs, illustrations, perfumer and artist graphics, and raw material photographs.

Interact With The Perfumer’s Pallete
An interactive “bar” to discover over thirty raw fragrance materials from Diptyque’s iconic eaux de toilette and eaux de parfum.

The pop up will run until September 29.

Charlotte Tilbury, aka makeup artist extraordinaire and the go-to beauty magician to the stars including Amal Clooney and Gigi Hadid, is expanding her emporium in the Middle East.

Podium in the Dubai Mall.

Following the opening of a shiny new store in the Dubai Mall, the brand is furthering their reach in the region with two new Beauty Wonderlands finding a home at Villagio in Qatar and Yas Mall in Abu Dhabi, both in partnership with retail franchise operator M.H Alshaya Co.

Want to meet the woman behind the Magic Cream and the fiercest kohl eyes? To celebrate the fourth and fifth Beauty Wonderlands in the region – and to officially open Dubai Mall – Charlotte also announced plans for a week-long Tilbury Tour of the Middle East next month.

On October 2 you’ll have a chance to get a one-to-one session with the makeup artist and from October 4, Nikki Beach will act as a hive for beauty obsessives as they unveil the ‘House of Tilbury’ pop-up where guests can immerse themselves into the world of Charlotte Tilbury, and experience two of her magical masterclasses. All of the events are ticketed and can be purchased at her store in the Dubai Mall.

Charlotte Tilbury backstage with model Arizona Muse.

Your third and final opportunity to meet the mastermind behind the Matte Revolution Lipsticks is in Abu Dhabi where she will unveil her Beauty Wonderland at the iconic Yas Mall on October 5.

Loewe unveiled their latest campaign featuring the Moroccan-British model Nora Attal.

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Shot by Steven Meisel, the portrait shows Attal wearing black outerwear over white jeans with a maxi fur hat and will appear on kiosks across Paris during the current fashion week.

The campaign also features three other models posing in an evocatively staged port scene, representing the liberally interpreted Spanish seaside references that thread through creative director Jonathan Anderson’s collections for the house.

A third visual depicts the brand’s latest iconic bag in a graphic new variation inspired by Charles Rennie Mackintosh, evident in a bold black-and-white lattice design. The Gate Grid is set to arrive in stores mid-November 2018, in time for the holiday season.

All images will also be displayed on a billboard outside of Loewe left bank showroom and studio with the brands SS19 show scheduled for Friday 28 September.

Paris met Miami in Saint Laurent’s SS19 show with models walking on water with the Eiffel Tower twinkling in the background.

Creative director Anthony Vaccarello does two things well: sensuality and tailoring. For the latest collection, he referenced the 60’s through sparkling shift dresses and velvet blazers, before moving to the 70’s with tuxedo suits, leather and frilly shirts. There was plenty of the familiar mini silhouettes to choose from, as well as lace trim camis, bodysuits and corseted trousers.

Half-way through, he took the collection West with cowboy hats, star embellished jackets and dresses as well as tiny corduroy shorts before throwing it back to the 80’s with sheer gowns and plenty of gold accents in forms of a bomber, cape and playsuit.

As bleached palm trees lined the water covered runway that models splashed through with every step, out came the swimwear in black and fierce leopard print alongside some kaftans. The swimsuits were structured, cut out and twisted to highlight various parts of body – some were decorated in sequins that we can imagine lighting up a few yachts in Cannes and Ibiza next summer.

It was a celebration of fearless female sensuality. Vaccarello appreciates that every woman has provocative side, and in his collections,  he always gives the covered and uncovered options for them to express it with confidence.

Tod’s have launched a new series of projects with other creatives to showcase various personalities of the fashion brand, and the man behind No.21 and Rochas kicks things off.

The Italian luxury house have invited talent from all areas of creativity to give their own take on Tod’s DNA. Each of the T Factory collaborations will be made available immediately, but only in limited numbers to add further exclusivity to the partnerships.

Alessandro Dell’Acqua is the first to launch this series with a wardrobe of sensually tactile elegance. Accessories are the stars in which the unmistakable Tod’s “gommini” embrace moccasins and flat-heel ballerinas with a velvet bow or stretch ankle boots and will be available three colours: Tod’s tan and Alessandro Dell’Acqua’s signature “rosa cipria” and black.

Dell’Acqua founded No. 21 – his birthday and lucky number – to showcase his expert knowledge of knitwear and ladylike dresses and separates, combined with his experience with masculine tailoring. He is very strong when it comes to shoes that can be described as elegant mixed with a ‘borrowed-from-the-boys’ sensibility, sounds like the perfect fit for Tod’s.

The coming together of Alessandro Dell’Acqua’s vision and the Italian excellence of Tod’s creates a nonchalant glamour which has just the right amount of edge. Shop the nine shoe styles and seven ready-to-wear pieces from mid-November.

One of the top British designers and champion of ethical fashion, Stella McCartney, has designed an exclusive capsule collection just for us in the Middle East

Available only at Mall of the Emirates and The Dubai Mall boutique’s, the pieces are inspired by greeting cards of the early 1960s, showcasing a print which is a photograph of traditional floral arrangements from that time.

These greeting cards were often printed slightly off-register with oversaturated colours which you can see now in the designers classic Silk Crepe de Chine. The rest of the collection features sporty crop tops and matching wide-leg leggings and sweatshirts with floral embroidery.

The Stella McCartney capsule is available to shop now and make sure to stop by for our review of her SS19 show on October 1.

In his long career, you can count on one hand how many interviews Hedi Slimane has given.

With his much anticipated debut at Celine this Friday, the designer spoke exclusively with Laurence Benaïm for French magazine Le Figaro, with the English translation appearing in full on Business of Fashion.  Here are the key points we took away from the interview.

He Loves California

He regularly travelled to LA with many of his Dior Homme collections finding inspiration there. He notes that the city has dramatically changed but still feels drawn to the Golden States and documents the Southern Californian surf communities.

He Respects What Phoebe Philo Did For Celine

Starting his journey at the house, he is not looking to imitate nor disregard Philo’s legacy. “Respect means preserving the integrity of each individual, recognize the things that belong to another person with honesty and discernment, it also means starting a new chapter.”

On Finding Celine’s ‘Black’

The images unveiled on the brands social media page have mostly been black and white, and we know Slimane’s fancy for the dark hue. He’s been researching ways to make it part of the debut collection. “For Celine, black requires a very special attention. We go through hundreds of samples in order to find the perfect black jacket or the perfect little black dress.”

To Him ‘Millennials’ Is Nothing New

Slimane has always ‘dressed the youth’ and doesn’t see the link between fashion and a young clientele as anything new. “The previous youth was not less interesting and engaged as this one, and the next youth will be just as crucial.”

Lady Gaga was the first to receive Celine’s new bag.
instagram.com/ladygaga

His Illness Helps Him Creativity

Hedi has chronic tinnitus that he had to learn to live with. What made it bearable is the joy of creating, “Everything was put back into perspective, especially with the idea of creating new collections.”

According to reports, Michael Kors has bought the Italian luxury house Versace.

Versace FW18.

Business of Fashion learnt that Michael Kors Holding Ltd – which will be renamed Capri Holdings Limited – have valued the deal at $2.21 billion and that the Versace family will continue to play a role within the brands future. The deal will see an extra 100 stores, a new e-commerce strategy and expansion of accessories for both men and women.

No statements have been released from either sides but it is known that Michael Kors is on the path to grow their luxury portfolio in a way that Paris-based conglomerates LVMH and Kering SA have done. Last year, they purchased Jimmy Choo and now Versace with sights on Coach owner Tapestry Inc to expand their US-based multi-brand empire.

They have a long way to go to reach the peaks of the Europe-based companies, but these are big steps towards becoming biggest US-based luxury conglomerate.

Courtesy of Gucci by Dan Lecca

A disused theatre, Dolly Parton, a live cockatoo, Micky Mouse and Jane Birkin serenading the audience. Sounds like a bizarre tale? No, it’s just another Gucci show which felt like Alessandro Michele’s most wearable to date.

For SS19, the designer looked to the experimental Italian theatre duo Leo de Berardinis and Perla Peragallo and noted their ‘theatre of contradiction’ as an inspiration for the collection and a means to ‘create nostalgia for another life.’

If you’re used to Michele’s showcases, then an eclectic mashup of decades and cultures in his clothes would not be a surprise to you – we can even accept the leather pants worn by some of the male models and the Micky Mouse shaped bags.

Despite all the theatrics, the collection appeared a little bit more wearable. The styling was perfectly done as for once, we as mere mortals, can envision how to wear these slightly bonkers items without having to break each look down.  We would happily dress ourselves in a striped dress with an elongated checked blazer and a cockatoo named Kiki casually sitting on our shoulder.

For the quirks, we saw winged pig embellishment, Dolly Parton image printed on sleeveless denim jackets and sweatshirts, glittering trousers (for the boys), beaded gowns, strawberry-print jeans, jewelled tiara’s and fantastical accessories.

Half way through the show, the 71-year-old singer and actress Birkin stepped up from her front row seat to sing ‘Baby Alone in Babylone’ for the guests. Despite wearing a tailored blacks suit and a white shirt, she stood out among all the shimmer and trinkets and was the perfect person to summarise Gucci’s tribute to France.

Ever since starting her journey at Dior, Maria Grazia Chiuri has been channeling women’s strength in all of her collections – from the famed logo T-shirts reading ‘We Should All Be Feminists’ to FW18 line inspired by Paris student protests of 1968. Today we saw an equally moving tribute to female empowerment, but through a medium of dance.

‘Dance is the movement of the universe concentrated in an individual’ reads one of the quotes on the wall of the shows’ venue. The words are from Isadora Duncan (1877-1927) who was an American pioneer of dance and became an important figure in both the arts and history.

Other dancers mentioned included Pina Bausch, who pioneered modern dance in the 1970’s, and Sharon Eyal who runs a dance company was the choreographer behind today’s show. Different generations, but all with the same objective – to push boundaries that made them icons in their own field.

Inside, powerful beams of light illuminated a dramatically dark show space in a mysterious storm of white rose petals and out came the ballerina’s in draped blush pink tulle dresses, tiered maxi’s and flowing gowns in sheer fabric with floral embellishment. These elegant constructions were mixed in with sportier silhouettes like transparent camis worn over bralettes or under mesh tops.

How does this dancer get from studio to home? She throws on a denim kimono and a wool beret, or slips into a delicate leather jacket while keeping her hair sleeked back with a double headband. Every piece had movement, even the loosely fit suits belted at the waistline. The draping was romantic, the netting was edgy and the ombre elongated cardigans were timelessly elegant.

Fashion, just like a piece of choreography, should make you feel something beyond desirability. It should further enhance your believes or evoke a new perspective in your thinking. That balanced determination to encourage a conversation while creating visually inspiring pieces is something Grazia Chiuri excels in every time.

As a quote from Eyal reads ‘The most important thing is to enjoy dancing. And research inside your body, feel free – we are perfect as we are’.

After six years in charge, Josep Font is leaving the Spanish luxury brand Delpozo.

He is stepping down as creative director of Spanish label with the successor still to be announced. In a statemented, the designer said:

“I am very proud of what we have achieved together in the short space of six years. I want to thank my talented team who has been committed since the beginning of this journey.”

Delpozo SS19 collection.

His recent show during London Fashion Week highlighted the labels feminine DNA with a bold use of colour and structured shapes, born out of the couture-like approach and architectural sensibility Font applies to his collections.

The brand has significantly expanded during his time with the newest stand-alone store recently opening in the Dubai Mall fashion extension. In a statement, the company’s president Pedro Trolez, said:

 

“Josep has been a key figure for the relaunch of Delpozo. I want to thank my talented team who has been committed since the beginning of this journey.”

There is no rest for the fashion crowd as Paris Fashion Week SS19 season kicks off with Dior.

Ever since starting her journey at the iconic fashion house, Maria Grazia Chiuri has been channeling women’s strength in all of her collections. From the famed logo T-shirts reading ‘We Should All Be Feminists’ to FW18 line inspired by Paris student protests of 1968, we expect an equally moving tribute to female empowerment today.

From what we have seen in teaser clips on Dior’s Instagram page, expect the collection to be a tribute by dance and powerful movement of the body.

Sitting comfortably? Let the show begin.

Let’s address the fashion elephant in the room first.

Hedi Slimane for Celine (sans the é)  has been one of the most speculated over debuts this season, more so than Riccardo Tisci for Burberry. Whether it’s because the style crowd is still recovering from the departure of Phoebe Philo, or the sheer secrecy surrounding the show, all eyes are firmly on Slimane but something tells us he’s not too worried.

After analysing season after season of bold and beautiful collections during his Saint Laurent days, we expect him to bring something of that midnight hour sensuality to a brand that has been creating strong masculine tailoring and statement accessories. Days ahead of the show, Celine announced that Hôtel des Invalides will be the show’s location– same place that he presented his FW14 menswear collection for Saint Laurent.

Then we got a sneak peek at the show invites that included 14 photographs, each depicting historical or iconic nightclubs or night cafes of Paris; like Bus Palladium or Castel. Hedi is especially attached to The Palace where he recently celebrated his 50’s surprise birthday. Coincidentally, it’s where Gucci is staging their SS19 runway.

Alessandro Michele is bringing the Italian fashion house for a one-off event in Paris as final step in the brands tribute to France. After severed heads and dragons, nothing is off limits when it comes to Michele’s wild fantasy and with the venue being an old theatre and nightclub, we anticipate plenty of theatrics.

Courtesy Christian Rausch/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images

Maison Margiela is back but with a new show format presenting both men’s and women’s lines, and they’re not the only ones with Clare Waight Keller also opting for a co-ed ready-to-wear collection for Givenchy. The British designer must be getting used to the lime-light after designer Meghan Markle’s royal wedding dress, will there be any hints to it in the  SS19 range?

Clare Waight Keller.

Nicolas Ghesquière received a lot of praise for his recent cruise presentation and as always, Louis Vuitton will close PFW and the fashion month with, what we imagine, another trend-making collection.

Stay tuned for all the latest from Paris here and on our Instagram page.

It was a sparkling end to SS19 season of Milan Fashion Week with the second edition of Green Carpet Awards that saw the finest from the world of style celebrating the best in sustainable fashion.

This year’s Awards were hosted by Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana and Eco-Age, founded by Colin Firth’s wife Livia Firth, and reflected the commitment of luxury fashion houses to sustainability, as they work to embrace rapid change while preserving the heritage and authenticity of small-scale producers.

 

“Sustainablity is not just about environment footprint of fashion, it is also about the handprint – the social impact, which is just as important. If you address the social impact of fashion you will fundamentally change it for the better,” Livia Firth told the Guardian newspaper.

Held at Teatro alla Scala, the GCFA welcomed an array of stars like Julianne Moore – who presented a craft mashup award to 20 cobblers of Salvatore Ferragamo, Cate Blanchett – who awarded the Australian wool growers with the eco stewardship prize and Cindy Crawford who presented an award to designer Donatella Versace.

There are 14 awards in total, all of which are seen through a sustainability lens focused on people, planet, place and profit. One of these accolades was announced ahead of the event to fashion journalist Suzy Menkes who received The Visionary Award.

 

“Every recipient at La Scala is reimagining and reworking the supply chain for the future and reinvesting in the planet and in people,” said Firth in a statement. “La Scala is the night we can amplify bold and brilliant solutions to environmental and social crises.”

For the second time, jewellery Maison Chopard were behind the beautifully handcrafted awards that were designed in a shape of a woman using fairmined certified ethical gold. Caroline Scheufele, Co-President and Artistic Director of Chopard, said in a statement:

“These awards are closely aligned with Chopard’s values, especially with our work on The Journey to Sustainable Luxury and the celebration of the artisans involved in all levels of our supply chains.”

Click through the gallery above to see more of the ‘green’ carpet arrivals.

During this season of Milan Fashion Week, the designers are focusing less on the trends and more on the fluidity of shapes, freedom of fabrics and how the pieces move on the body.

For Giorgio Armani SS19 collection, the designer channeled his emotions of summer into colours and shapes that offered a different perspective from each angle. There is beauty in intricacy of his work like the tiered strapless dress with a perplex bodice, multi-hue trousers that had a sheer element at the bottoms and fringed dresses that echoed the movement of the water.

He kept the shapes light and elongated offering a slender way of enveloping the body while complimenting them by working with shades of metallic grey, silky pastels, soft blue with bold splashes of bright pink – try not to fall in love the fuchsia full skirt with drawstrings just below the hips.

No Giorgio Armani collection would be complete without neatly crafted jackets and trousers which for SS19 also have a looser silhouette. For summer nights, slip into one of the gowns that’s been crossed with pleats and embroideries and style with a small mesh bag.

His triumph was in his elegant use of transparency and how the fabrics caught the light to give them a whole new life with every step. Ever changing as the tides, these pieces capture the Armani woman today, a woman who is as vulnerable as a drop, and as strong as the crashing waves that follow.

A key exhibition exploring contemporary Muslim fashion has opened in San Francisco’s de Young Museum and welcomed speakers like Ghizlan Guenez, founder and CEO of The Modist to talk about the role of demure dressing today.

 

“Contemporary Muslim Fashions is the first major museum exhibition to explore the complex, diverse nature of Muslim dress codes worldwide. The exhibition examines how Muslim women—those who cover their heads and those who do not—have become arbiters of style within and beyond their communities, and in so doing have drawn mass media attention to contemporary Muslim life,” reads the museum’s statement.

It showcases different religious interpretations and cultures, including high-end fashions, such as those by Malaysia-based Blancheur; street wear, from brands like London-based Sarah Elenany; sportswear, such as the burkini; and commissioned garments from both emerging and established designers like Marchesa and Oscar De La Renta.

Contemporary Muslim Fashions also hopes to enrich visitors with a better understanding of Muslim communities through a series of quotes on label’s and wall panels, as well as images and videos from social media influencers.

“Fashion is at it’s best when it both adapts to the needs of society and reflects its social and political undercurrents,” said Jill D’Alessandro, Curator in Charge of Costume and Textile Arts, in a statement.

The museum has received a number of donations from around the world including a Christian Dior couture gown and matching abaya from Princess Deena Aljuhani Abdulaziz from Saudi Arabia, which will be displayed on the set designed by the New York–based Iranian sisters behind the architectural firm of Hariri & Hariri.

Exhibiting in the United States, and later in Europe (you’ll be able to see it in Frankfurt next spring), is key to developing understanding of the Muslim cultures and how modest dressing isn’t a trend, but a modern way of life for many.

During a warm evening in Milan, Angela Missoni’s celebrated the brands  65^th anniversary with a story of gossamer textures, airy volumes and craft.

https://www.instagram.com/MISSONI

Guests were invited to unwind on café tables as they watched a procession of models glide by in the familiar knits that are as beautiful as they are complicated when it comes to craftsmanship.

As Michael Nyman, a friend of Angela Missoni, played the piano during the show, the familiar display of the brand’s signature ‘Fiammato’ — zig-zag pattern – appeared in new soft pastel hues, some shimmering while others patched together in various colourways.

https://www.instagram.com/MISSONI

There were darker tones towards the end like navy blue and denim, with a sheer black sparkling knit dress worn over matching loose trousers grabbing our attention.

We were once again amazed at the intricacy and pure imagination of fabric manipulation and styling. The layering was flawless as various silhouettes blended effortlessly together – think jackets, cardigans, kimono’s or shawls draped over maxi skirts and relaxed pants.

https://www.instagram.com/MISSONI

The brand has come a long way since the family knitwear business opened in 1953. The techniques may have evolved over the years, but what remains true is Missoni’s determination to keep to the aesthetic that has made the house iconic around the world.

Following the success of their first collaboration, luxury footwear brand Aquazzura and model Claudia Schiffer unveiled the next chapter.

You can rely on Edgardo Osorio to create eye-catching shoes that we’ve even seen on the royal feet of Meghan Markle. Unlike the classic styles that the Duchess of Sussex favours, this partnership focuses on fierce boots in leopard and tiger print.

For a touch of 80’s disco fever, fans of the brand can also shop the multi buckle Debbie booties in patent or sparkling finish. For day, try the Nena ballet flats in black or animal print while the Bowie boots perfectly capture the 90’s.

The collection is available to shop on the brand’s website, but fingers crossed we will snap a pair or two at the brands boutique in the Dubai Mall fashion extension.

Third week of the busy fashion month is coming to a close and the style crowd is tired. There’s still Paris to come but thanks to Francesco Risso, the attendees could rest on one of the many beds that decorated the space for the Marni SS19 show.

Marni is one of those brands that can seem over-styled, and yet remain extremely polished. It’s not easy to make a riot of vintage-inspired prints clashing with one another appear pleasant to the eye, and yet with Risso’s touch they are in perfect harmony.

The set of beds was also a hint to the more relaxed, laid back way of dressing so we saw loose fitted coats and dresses, patchworks of design mimicking a blanket your grandma could’ve stitched together. The models were also wearing flats, which for the last few years has been the way of dressing up your feet, hurrah.

Dresses – aka the brand’s speciality – were particularly on good form today. They felt spontaneous, youthful and delicately bold. The draped and cut out silhouettes in neutral shades literally looked like cuts of bedsheets stitched together into something modern and edgy. The ‘arts and crafts’ corseted numbers were equally appealing, especially those that were decorated with embellished hemlines.

Outwear was also strong, in parts even better than dresses. The cropped versions in mish mash of fabric can be thrown over any outfit for an instant statement, while the longer coats in red and nude with brush strokes of white were extremely elegant, yet eye-catching.

Sweet dreams are made of Marni.

If you’re going to pay tribute to the King of Pop, you do it the Philipp Plein way who delivered a wild celebratory show during Milan Fashion Week.

If bling, high top sneakers, heavily printed T-shirts and skin hugging leather is your jam, then Plein’s SS19 collection is for you. Packed with edgy attitude and designed for those who like to stand out and don’t mind being provocative, the 57 looks brought a modern day appeal to Michael Jackson’s Thriller days.

While over-the-knee sparkling boots and multi-strap tube dresses were best made for the runway, the biker jackets (especially the oversized number in fierce shade of red) would be a statement addition to any wardrobe.

What Plein does well is he injects his personality into every piece and there is no doubt that he’d wear each of men’s items that stepped onto the runway – note the band blazers, studded loafers and distressed denim.

For the women’s side, the camo coat worn by Halima stood out along with a sparkling tuxedo jackets in look 52. The embellished mini dresses and skirts lit up the runway and with some simplified styling could actually be extremely wearable – if you have the confidence for them.

You have to give it Plein, he knows his audience and they want to party with him and the King of Pop into the night.

In our interview with Donatella Versace for the September issue, the designer said that the brand is “as about strength, individuality and empowering other people. It’s about supporting one another and being inclusive. It’s about enjoying life.”

This pure energy with superior craftsmanship, creativity and innovation pulsed through her SS19 collection that she presented in Milan tonight. Her Fall range was all about ‘no barriers, no rules and no compromises’ and she has continued to push this momentum with an array bold hues, psychedelic prints and fearless silhouettes.

The clash of motifs was wild, while the sheer panels, thigh high splits, and flirty fabrics added the Versace sensuality that Donatella does well – very well. Get party ready with a tailored blazer styled with flamenco flared trousers, hit the red carpet in neon orange slip dress or show off those legs in one of her daring mini’s.

But it’s the hippy inspired, tie dye denim, rose tinted sunglasses and silk headscarves that deliver something fun for every day. We guarantee that the cropped jackets, neon sneakers, medusa hair grips and flowing floral dresses would sell out in a flash.

“My goal is to keep the brand relevant in today’s society and culture and to keep on promoting those messages of women’s empowerment, equality, freedom that we have always supported. Versace will also always evolve and be excited about the future,” she said in our interview.

After today’s show, we are even more excited for the continuing evolution of Versace.

Have you ever seen a more stylish skateboarder on Venice Beach? A sea breeze of beachside glamour blew through the mind of Veronica Etro as she presented her SS19 collection during Milan Fashion Week.

She was inspired by coastal cultures from around the world – the bohemians of California, the tropical landscape of Hawaii and the modern lifestyle of Japan – and gave them an Etro spin.

The colour palette was as diverse as the places of influence with an Aloha riot of pale citrus hues – lime, lemon, tangerine and grapefruit – that were watered down with black, white and cream. Prints were a fascinating array of Paisley motifs, Matisse-inspired cut-outs, Japanese calligraphy and of course floral.

Effortless dressing does not mean undone and here we saw workwear inspired jeans and long robes in patterned jacquard denim, slim-fitting knit suits and mini dresses among the selection of wetsuits. The loose silhouettes maintained elements of structure like the Judo style jackets that were belted at the waist with long cotton bows or the wide leg trousers that reflected 1970’s glamour.

Etro is another brand this season to showcase a strong emphasis on accessories and for your next sunny getaway she has equipped you with wide brimmed cotton hats finished with a net, scuba booties, jewellery inspired by the sea like crystal encrusted seashells and the brand’s iconic rainbow bag that comes embroidered with braided straps.

Now you can ride the wave into your dream vacation in truly effortless style.

How Roberto Cavalli’s creative director, who is known for technical fabrics and sharp tailoring, is rebooting one of the most lavish Italian brands for the new generation.

In an ever shifting world of fashion, heritage brands are pushing more than ever to remain relevant. We have seen it slowly take shape at Burberry since the arrival of Riccardo Tisci, and we are sure to see a transformation at Celine at the hands of Hedi Slimane.

Pushing forward and transforming a historical name like Roberto Cavalli is something that has weighed heavily on Paul Surridge’s mind since he took over in July 2017. The British designer only had eight weeks to channel his vision before the first womenswear collection walked down the runway. It was met with positive reviews, although the long-term fans of Cavalli missed some of the more glamorous creations.

So for his second attempt, he dived into the archives for that sensual razzle and dazzle, and yet it seemed to miss some of his own voice. For the upcoming women’s ready-to-wear show this month, Surridge is trying something new that will showcase his point of view in a way that we haven’t seen before.

The transformation continued with his first men’s collection, held at Pitti Uomo in Florence where the brand was founded. He striped the Cavalli man of the embroidery and tailoring, and instead dressed him in luxe leisure and sportswear that still echo the codes of a house, but in a modern way.

Surridge is determined to push the brand forward and evolve it into the new Roberto Cavalli that appeals to the millennial shopper, and yet doesn’t shun the loyal customer base. It’s a difficult balance, but as we chat to him further there’s a sense of confidence that gives us a feeling that he knows exactly what he’s doing.

Tell us about the Fall 2018 women’s collection.

It was about capturing the essence and the flirtation of the Cavalli woman. It was a modern approach, to me, of femininity and continuation of sensuality but it was slightly more powerful. From the historic side of Cavalli, the woman is very powerful. I wanted to touch more on the areas of the wardrobe that I haven’t presented, like coats and leather and clothes that helped define the winter collection.

It was about finding a new idea of glamour, and the idea of glamour being an idea of attraction. I thought ‘what is the attraction to me, today, in 2018?’ and it’s confidence. A woman can wear what she wants, how she wants to wear it. I think a Cavalli woman is someone who empowers herself and doesn’t follow the rules.

How do you think the image of the brand is changing under your direction?

The brand is 48 years old, what I’m trying to do is to concentrate on other areas. Roberto Cavalli is renowned for red carpet and evening wear, but I feel an area of growth can come from approaching the concept of daywear.

The recent shows concentrated on embroidery and evening dresses and very worked pieces, which were very limited in terms of use, and very expensive, so for me it was about bringing it into the daywear concept and appealing to the global market, in particular Asia. If you’re not looking at Asia, you’re not really relevant. The idea of sportswear, leisure, down dressing rather than traditional evening dresses. It was an instinctive approach to make it modern and make it a global aesthetic.

I’m trying not to make it too disruptive as I understand there’s a loyal fan base that I don’t want to lose while I’m looking for a new one. Also approaching the idea of beauty, and body. It’s an ongoing discussion of how to approach sensuality in fashion which has always been a big part of the Cavalli world. We are trying to make it attractive and relevant for the new generation.

Who would you say is the Roberto Cavalli woman today?

She is empowered and a creative thinker. Someone who follows her own rules, someone who is respectful and mindful about walking into the room and the power of the mind. Someone who is confident enough to follow her own instincts, someone who is not shy. It could be anyone, I think it’s a community of global woman who want to stand out, but for the right reasons.

Tell us about your inspiration for your first men’s collection for Roberto Cavalli.

Our menswear business is very small and it’s almost like a start up. The idea was to capture a less traditional and more leisure, more sportswear and a more urban attitude. I have to make it attractive for wholesale and retail. Historically, the Cavalli man was tailored and very rock and roll, and very dandy, but no one is really looking at ‘dandy’ and no one is buying tailoring. It was almost an instinctive approach to modernise the wardrobe and put it into an eclectic sportswear content. I wanted it to be a younger vibe, someone who wants something special and looking at the idea of utility, practicality and sportswear but in Cavalli codes. Looking at how to modernise the artisan value of the brand in a slightly more sportier leisure context.

Were you worried about the response the collection would have?

There’s always concern. At the end of day my job is to make the brand relevant. I always follow my own creative instinct, but there’s always a concern, ‘is there enough of the past without changing the DNA?’ but I also feel Cavalli needs to modernize and be brought into the context that makes it attractive in today’s market.

What shift have you seen in the men’s fashion scene?

There is less traditional clothing, less traditional luxury in a way. We moved into this whole sportswear epidemic which created a rise in T-shirts and sweatshirts, but today you can also have a T-shirt that is 1000 (Approx. AED4,205), and you can have a suit that’s 600 or 800, so it’s not so much about the value, it’s about desirability and status. It’s cooler to have a limited edition T-shirt or limited edition sneaker than a beautifully crafted suit or a leather jacket.

It’s a cycle, and tailoring will come back but right now we’re living with a sportswear urban attitude, which I think is going to come to an end. We are going through the last part of the cycle, but it is a change in traditional luxury into more sportswear. As a creative director, you have to trust your instincts, today I think authenticity and courage is what people respond with. They want something that is personal and storytelling from a specific point of view.

How do you want men and women to feel in your clothes?

Definitely comfortable, confident and empowered. I want people to buy the clothes because they feel good in them. I think today the most important thing is to make people feel good.

I want them to stand out. Roberto Cavalli was the brand you’d wear to communicate something, so I want to create clothes that people wear because they want to stand out, but stand out for the right reasons. That will be an ongoing journey through this idea of glamour, sensuality and body.

I’m obsessed right now with the way the body is a receptor. When a person walks into the room, you’re aware of their physical presence, and then you notice clothing. Cavalli, for me, was about beauty and making a woman feel beautiful, and making a man feel urban and cool and it’s all about putting all those things into a context that’s right for 2018. We’re no longer 2004, and the brand has to move on.

How do you balance the demand of luxury consumers with your design process?

People want something special and stands out. If you’re buying something expensive, it has to be quality or it has to be unique to the point where you’re buying into the aesthetic and into the vision of the brand. Today is about getting a unique experience or giving them a reason to buy into the brand.

How do you capture the new millennial mindset?

Values have changed. People want to buy something for a special occasion or something that makes them feel good because the occasions have changed. You have to provide something that captured the imagination of that generation. Their lives are about validating their existence, recording their presence, proving that they had a contribution, it’s a very different approach to image and documentation, and with that they are looking for something that gives them credibility. It’s about standing out and fitting in. It’s going to be harder for brands to stay on top, but millennial is one type. On one side you have to attract the millennial business to keep it credible, and on the other side you have to keep a historic customer happy.

What is the most rewarding part of being a designer today?

The most incredible part is that it doesn’t feel like a job, it feels like an extension of yourself. I never had the feeling that I go to work. The best part is that you’re also in motion, you never do the same thing twice. You’re constantly creating and travelling. It’s incredibly hard, but you’re constantly moving and as a creative director, you can inspire people. It’s not about just clothing, it’s about the world around clothing. Your mind is never in once place.

Explain your design process.

I start with a couple of adjectives: is it retro, futuristic, modern, sensual? I create three key words. Then we think about the silhouette: is it bodycon, oversized, are we more fluid or tailored? We go through the selection process. The new collection (SS19) is new for me, it’s less about the archives.

Describe your office / creative space.

I have both an office and studio. My working office has a desk and a meeting table and I’m only there in the morning and the evening. It’s extremely tidy, I’m obsessed with order and discipline. It’s a thinking space so I can’t stand mess and disorder.

What attributes does a strong leader need?

You need to be patient, generous, you need to listen and you also need to be strong and confident and call things out when needed. You have to trust your instinct, the worst thing is to make the wrong decision and know that you’re making the wrong decision. The most important thing today is to lead by example. You have to be likeable but also powerful, clear and focused – it’s a very complex. We are all looking at survival, there’s a lot of challenges and it’s all about relevance. We have to create something that’s meaningful and special, listen to the new generation. You have to empower the younger generation, and educate them.

What has been inspiring you recently?

I started watching a show called Pose. I’m always inspired by friends and people who set off to do their own projects and set up their new projects.

What other designers do you love wearing?

I’m very basic, always wearing the same thing. I love Comme des Garçons, Jil Sander, I started to wear Cavalli. I’m simple in a way, I’m a white T-shirt and jeans guy.

Who do you turn to for advice?

I turn to sometimes my partner and sometimes to [my friend] Carmen, she’s a life coach and she helps to advise me on certain things.

Can you remember the last thing that made you laugh?

I always find something that makes me laugh, I’m someone who likes to laugh a lot. Stupid things on YouTube, animals being silly. My friends made me laugh on holiday!

How do you deal with a creative block?

I just leave the situation and go for a run. I can’t always do it at work, so if there is a creative block it’s about asking a few questions. If I do feel blocked at all, then I go for a run and take my mind of it.

Who would be your fashion dinner party guests?

I would like to see all my old employers, people that I have actually met and got to know at some point. Miuccia [Prada], Calvin [Klein], Christopher [Kane], Raf [Simons], Kate Moss as I think she’d be an amazing energy. A singer that was part of my adolescence like Kylie Minogue, and Yves Saint Laurent. To bring someone back and ask how they feel about fashion today. And my long time hero Helmut Lang who changed my world and perception on fashion.

What is the one item of clothing you think is essential for a timeless wardrobe, for both men and women?

There’s something powerful about a beautifully about a well-made cotton shirt. It brings a touch of class to any outfit.

What can we expect from SS19?

When I first joined, I found the company a little bit confused. I wanted to simplify and bring a little bit of elegance. One of the critics (of the first collection) said ‘it’s beautiful, but where is the glamour?’ so the second collection was more heritage based, and capturing the glamour of the Cavalli past. Now, I realise I have to bring something of myself to the table so this next collection is less about heritage and more about capturing the attitude and spirit. I like to keep things moving. It’s time to show who I am, if I don’t show that, why am I doing it? I have to move the company forward, because the past didn’t work, the past failed. I like to experiment and express myself because that’s my responsibility and my job.

It’s a very edited collection. The winter collection fluctuated between too many different types of clothing. The new collection has powerful silhouettes, lots of beautiful tailoring and completely new proportions to what I worked on so far.

Karl Lagerfeld and Silvia Fendi continue on their quest to deliver daytime glamour that is modern, chic and manageable.

fendi ss19 runway mfw

What does an accomplished and stylish woman wear today? Denim blazers, utilitarian coats with oversized pockets, and sporty bombers styled with neat secretary pleated skirts – well at least according to Fendi SS19 collection.

Staying relevant is the main objective for any house, as well as feeding the demanding millennial shoppers who love pieces drenched in logo – which to our delight we saw very little of, and when it did appear it was elegantly subtle. The focus was more on functionality. Multi-pocketed shirts and jackets, khaki belted trousers, cargo pants and mesh bombers that also featured plenty of storage space. Totes and belt bags offered extra compartments and it was all expertly bundled together in a fresh colour pallete of white, beige and navy with splashes of sunset orange and deep purple.

When taking a break from extremely stylish safari ensembles, there were pretty dresses to frill with layers of sheer fabric and floral embroidery. Tailoring was also strong, in particular the plum suit featuring a blazer that curved at the hips with gathered pockets and styled with slim cropped trousers.

Karl Lagerfeld and Silvia Fendi should not worry about staying relevant, they are already ahead of many other brands with their take on how a woman wants to dress. The SS19 line is fresh, wearable and enormously shoppable.

For the 2019 Spring/Summer Prada womenswear show, AMO transforms the Deposito, the most dramatic space of the Fondazione Prada complex, into a multifunctional venue for performances.

And what a performance it was. Miuccia Prada showed another intriguing and captivating collection packed with daring cuts and statement accessories.

The designer portrayed various sides to a woman – the preppy student, the athlete, the lady and the temptress – all equally compelling and beautiful in the own right. Out came satin elongated shorts styled with a high neck tops verging on a elevated cycling attire.

Then came the skin baring leotard tops worn with pencil skirts in various neon shades that she mixed in among the girly bell dresses, some in cute pastel pink, others in tough girl leather. The ladylike coats were elegant and beautifully crafted, in particular the quirky printed navy version.

She presented many interpretations of modern femininity ranging from swishing A-line skirts belted at the waist and paired with delicate knits, to transparent dresses revealing tiny shorts underneath.

Bags were splashed with tie dye colours, while others mixed a classic shape with embellishment and hardware – beauty meets power. However, it’s the sheer knee high socks and headbands worn on most the models that had the fashion crowd reaching for their phones. The combination of both seems to capture the Prada woman perfectly as someone who embraces her femininity with great strength and sensuality.

Is there anything Miuccia Prada can’t make desirable?

Following Arab Fashion Week in April, the Kingdom announced first Saudi Fashion Week to take place in October.

Fllumaé showed in April.

Taking place Riyadh, the SS19 season is set to kick off on October 21 and last four days. In a statement, the organisers spoke of emerging Saudi talent who will be included in the schedule:

“The Saudi Fashion Community is thrilled to announce that a program was created for Saudi Top Emerging Designers. We will shortly be revealing the six shortlisted designers that will be part of the second edition of Saudi Fashion Week in October.”

In April, an array of brands from around the world including United Arab Emirates, Egypt, Italy, Kazakhstan, Lebanon, the United States and Saudi Arabia showcased their ready-to-wear and pret-a-porter collections. There were also trunk shows in partnership with Harvey Nichols that gave visitors a chance to meet the creatives and place orders, including Arwa Al Banawi and Jean Paul Gaultier

Tony Ward showed in April.

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Saudi Fashion Week will be held at the Al Faisaliah Hotel and Al Faisaliah Tower in the Kingdom’s capital and will welcome designers including Arwa al Banawi, Yanina Couture, Dar Walid Attallah, Yahya Al Bishri, Lama Askari and Robert Abi Nader.