Velvet by Massaro

Velvet by Massaro is a line designed to reveal the visionary facet of femininity. It epitomises the creative muse, the revolutionary passionaria, exploring the fascinatingly eccentric side of women who are fearless in revealing their true selves.

Blossom Velvet

Blossom Velvet Pink is a multi petal expression of ageless sensuality, with three one of a kind and even more elaborate interpretations, assembled as an exquisite set nestling in a superbly crafted marquetry worked box.

Automatic Skeleton

Technical excellence and powerful design are the signature characteristics of the Excalibur collection. Embodying an expression of style and watchmaking mastery, the deliberately extravagant line is driving fine watchmaking towards whole new horizons. It captures the spirit of Roger Dubuis so completely that it has become the real icon of the brand. In the tradition of excellence that has forged the brand’s reputation, each model in the Excalibur collection meets the new requirements of the Poinçon de Genève.

Velvet Secret Heart

The mechanical self winding RD821B movement with its double retrograde date function makes an ideal match for the tonneau shape since it follows the symmetry of the dial and sensually hugs its every curve.

Chaumet’s precious watches are the timekeeping interpretations of the Maison’s creations. Designed as ‘jewels that tell the time’, they perpetuate the Chaumet tradition of jewellery watches, since 1811. Created with the same attention to detail and creativity that is dedicated to jewellery, these watches compliment the collections, offering women both elegance and modernity. 

Lit by the radiant lustre of white mother-of-pearl and the sparkle of diamonds, the dial of the new Liens Lumière watch adorns the wrist by day and by night. Mother-of-pearl, much sought after for its shimmering reflections, has enhanced the most exceptional timepieces since the 18th century. It offers its radiant hues to the new watch’s soft curves. Creating endless plays on light and colour, it evokes changing skies or water touched by sunlight, making each watch unique.

Limelight Gala

The Limelight Gala is the epitome of absolute femininity according to Piaget: inherently elegant and supremely sensual. Born in the 1970s, a period pervaded by freedom, boldness and extravagance, the Limelight Gala bears eloquent testimony, alongside cuff-watches and sautoir-necklace models, to the inimitable Piaget style based on a powerful design vocabulary that appealed to the jet-set and countless celebrities of the time. Buoyed by the boundless creativity of the Maison, it symbolises immutable feminine elegance, while also asserting Piaget’s desire to create watches entirely dedicated to women. Everything is about aesthetics, balance, proportions, and details. Revisited for the first time in 2013 on a satin strap, it now appears in an exclusively gold-clad version featuring a Milanese mesh strap complementing its generous curves. Seamlessly integrated within the case and meticulously adjusted, the mesh bracelet makes a perfect match with the bezel and its diamond-set elongated asymmetrical lugs.

Piaget Polo S

Not every year, not even every decade, does a watch become an icon of its generation and an expression of the spirit of its time. In 1979, however, Piaget created just such a timepiece with the Piaget Polo. The new Polo S features an ingenious shape-within-shape that is Piaget’s distinctive hallmark, and displays the unique association of a cushion-shaped dial within a round 42mm case. Designed by Piaget, its automatic movement discreetly reveals its beauty through a sapphire case-back. A bracelet of meticulously hand-assembled links alternatingly polished and with a satin finish, completes the experience.

On the beautiful cliffs of the French Riviera in St Tropez, Louis Vuitton unveiled its high jewellery collection, Blossom, a story of metamorphosis with the four-petalled Monogram Flower constantly reinventing itself. The collection features a flamboyant bright 7.13 carat mandarin garnet, a 53.01 carat black opal with its kaleidoscope reflections, and a 29.75 carat tsavorite, whose rarely seen bright sage green originates from a mine recently discovered in Merelani, Tanzania. These unusual gemstones are hunted out to add drama and intrigue to its high jewellery designs, with the Louis Vuitton flower adapting beautifully to every new design.

‘Our high jewellery is not just there for show,’ says Hamdi Chatti, head of watches and jewellery at Louis Vuitton, and the man who engineered the opening of a high jewellery atelier and an elegant boutique on the Place Vendôme in Paris. They may only have started making fine jewels in 2009, however the brand now offers a full range of jewellery, with Mr Chatti, formerly at Cartier, Montblanc and Harry Winston, at the helm. We chat to him about stones, success and the sunny climes of St Tropez.

Why is it that coloured and rare stones are concentrated on rather than diamonds?

This is to remain unique as it’s far easier to have diamonds. We wanted to select the most incredible stone out there in terms of size, colour and the way it has been cut. We like the idea that we travel to search for these stones, as that is at the core of the Louis Vuitton brand, finding something that no one has seen before. For us, it is all about the travel to be unique, and not like anybody else.

Can you tell us about how the beautiful stones are found?

We have a team that are all around the world, together with some very good connections. Sometimes they come from Africa or Asia, and sometimes South America or Pakistan, we go everywhere.

What was the inspiration behind reinterpreting the Monogram Flower for this collection?

It was one stone, a 43.05-carat aqua green beryl. The designers saw it as said it looked like a petal and then this was a starting point, before it became a petal on a diamond and chalcedony pendant. Usually the monogram is flat, however now for this collection the monogram blossomed to become three dimensional.

Why did you choose the French Riviera for this launch?

For the light, the colour of stone is about light. Only here can you find great sunlight, blue sky and water, all of which complement the high jewellery stones.

What is your personal favourite from the collection?

The main beryl, diamond and chalcedony pendant, at is was the genesis of the collection. I also like the mandarin garnet pieces because of the vivid and unusual hue of the stone, and in terms of design it would be the merelani stone bangle, which you could wear every day.

The high jewellery collection is still a relatively new for the brand. How do you feel it has grown and what do you think Louis Vuitton offers to the fine jewellery sector?

It is an easy collection to wear, which isn’t always the case with high jewellery. The mix of bold design and elegance is not traditional at all. We also use new and original colours and stones which keep it modern. We are a house that makes trunks, fashion, bags, shoes and jewellery, all of which sit together in harmony, this is a specific skill, as I feel that you use a bag every day and it is the same with the jewellery.

Being a young jeweller, does it give you the opportunity to do things differently?

Yes, absolutely. We are authentic as to what we stand for as a house, in terms of craft, codes and style. We prefer to avoid traditional stones, such as emerald, and instead use tsavorite or merelani.

Tell us about the identity of the high jewellery collection and who the Louis Vuitton woman is that is being designed for?

First of all, it is about emotion. All of our customers trust us, which is important, and if they have the right emotion with the right piece then they tend to purchase it. Most buy one piece rather than a full set, as you can’t love everything.

What do you find most interesting about Louis Vuitton’s high jewellery journey over the past collections?

I think that when the client wears the collection is the most interesting part by far. Most of the time they say I wear it often and even wear it to the office, especially rings and bangles. As much as we are there in terms of design, they are there in terms of wearing. It is surprising and the best part of it.

Moving forward, what is your strategy and ambitions for fine jewellery?

To have more and more collections and more people loving them. We want our customers to be happy, and wear the pieces. We would like them to enjoy the jewellery and not keep it in the safe.

By Eliza Scarborough

Slim d’Hermès 

The Slim d’Hermès inspires a cadence based on pure, restrained lines. From the design of the case to the outline of the numerals, the collection sets the pace for a return to the quintessence of the watchmaking art. Graphic arts and horological skills meet and mingle in perfect harmony in a quest for aesthetic purity. The in-house expertise is expressed through the dial, the case and the ultra-thin Manufacture calibre. The exceptionally understated lines are accentuated by the slenderness of the case, while the design of the lugs forms a right angle.

Arceau   

Hermès has extended its signature Arceau line with new 36mm quartz timepieces for ladies. The steel set version is offered with 1 ct of diamonds and comes with a mother-of-pearl dial, the non-set version features a white lacquered dial. There are over 60 interchangeable strap colours available, in both alligator and calf.

Designed by Henri d’Origny in 1978, the Arceau combines elegance and style with harmoniously balanced proportions and is the most classical of Hermès watches. Inspired by the characteristic elegance of horses, its asymmetric lugs echo the shape and curve of a stirrup.

Pocket Plein Cuir

The Pocket plein cuir honours the leather-making and watchmaking expertise cultivated by the Maison. Finely crafted in the Hermès workshops, this new pocket watch is comfortably nestled inside a colourful alligator jacket. It features a surprising fastening system and an equally unusual leather sheath. This horological object harmoniously associates the science of time measurement with the art of travel and leather craftsmanship.

Two saddle-making techniques are combined in this timepiece, through-seam stitching and so- ‘full-grain leather’. Production continues in the sewing atelier with the indenting operation, then comes the sewing phase as such. The model is then beautifully finished by heat-smoothing the outer and inner edges edges and dyeing both parts, before coating them with protective beeswax. The watch itself is also created in the Hermès workshops. Its 750 white gold case frames a precious and rare dial crafted using the ancient Grand Feu enamel technique that implies several manual operations.

Happy Diamonds

Since 1976, Happy Diamonds have been joyfully lighting up the eponymous creations from Chopard. Over the years, the famous moving diamonds have been staged through a myriad of precious and playful watch and jewellery creations. This year, Chopard is revisiting the iconic model in which they were first introduced. Paying tribute to the original cushion shape, but this time designed for ladies, today’s Happy Diamonds watch is a precious jewelled timepiece exuding a vintage charm mixed with a contemporary feel. The prong-set diamonds circling the dial emphasise its gentle curves, while moving diamonds whirl freely across a textured white mother-of-pearl background.

Happy Sport 36mm

Happy Sport adopts a strap to be changed at will in step with your moods and the changing seasons. A heritage of simplicity and a penchant for boundless fancies enter the new Happy Sport. In a spirit of do-it-yourself customisation, it offers women the possibility of changing the strap of their watch in the comfort of their home and whenever they feel like it. Matching, mismatching, energising, soothing, dreaming, anything goes as colours interpret ever changing desires.

Imperiale Joaillerie

The Imperiale collection welcomes an exceptional creation reflecting its inherent nature. A stunning watch, a technical feat transformed into an aesthetic treasure. An array of sapphires like the sky after a storm, serving as the backdrop for an extraordinary rainbow. Made from 581 sapphires, more than 1,000 hours of work to select, cut, sort and set stones totalling 47.98 carats. This jewellery masterpiece is adorned in subtly graded shades covering the entire colour spectrum.

L.U.C XP 35 mm Esprit de Fleurier Peony

Its understated elegance and its technical sophistication have made the L.U.C XP a flagship model among the Chopard Haute Horlogerie collection of L.U.C watches. In 2014, Chopard created a version with a 35 mm diameter, in smaller size, intended for women. The beating heart is the L.U.C 96.23-L calibre. It’s produced by Chopard Manufacture and graced with Fleurisanne engraving, an almost extinct handcraft. Where beauty meets precision, a gorgeous peony blossoms in a 8-piece limited edition watch: the L.U.C XP 35 mm Esprit de Fleurier Peony.

Mille Miglia 2016 XL Race Edition

Issued in a 1,000-piece stainless steel limited edition, the Mille Miglia 2016 XL Race Edition throbs to the tune of a unique ‘engine’, the new Chopard Calibre 03.05-C, a chronograph movement with COSC-certified precision. Surrounded with a tachymetric scale, the dial revives the aesthetic of vintage dashboards and ensures maximum readability thanks to its large numerals and luminescent hands. Inspired by leather car-bonnet tie-down straps, its beautifully weathered strap in Suportlo® calfskin echoes the legendary spirit of the Italian competition that Chopard has been serving as partner and official timekeeper since 1988.

Tiffany timepieces are meticulously handcrafted in a 169-year horological tradition established by founder Charles Lewis Tiffany, who invented the New York Minute with watches that symbolised the city’s driving spirit and creative energy. Mr. Tiffany’s dedication to quality and style is reflected in the watch’s self-winding, mechanical movement of the finest Swiss pedigree.

The Tiffany CT60® Bicolor

This watch is fitted with a bracelet of stainless steel and 18 karat rose gold, featuring a bezel and crown in 18 karat rose gold. The Chronograph’s dial with white soleil finishing and gold poudré numerals, and the white flinqué finishing on the 3-Hand versions further distinguish the rich contrast of metals.

The Tiffany CT60® Dual Time

The timepiece is inspired by the pace and energy of New York City, it features a second time zone with red accents that allow the wearer to easily differentiate between day and night. Other handcrafted details include a 40 mm case of 18 karat rose gold or stainless steel, a dial with white soleil finishing and gold poudré numerals, and black alligator strap, or a stainless steel case and bracelet, a dial with blue soleil finishing and gold poudré numerals.

Chronoliner Blacksteel 

The Chronoliner Blacksteel teams a high-tech ceramic bezel with a black steel case, along with a matching dial and rubber strap. Providing a technical and elegant uniform for the authentic flight captain’s watch, the new model is equipped with a steel case coated with a high-resistance carbon-based treatment. The watch’s dark touch continues on the dial which features tone-on-tone counters, as well as on the original rubber strap which picks up the design of the steel mesh Aero Classic bracelets. The back of the model bears a depiction of the stylised planes that were a long-time Breitling signature.

Colt Chronograph Automatic Blacksteel   

With its sturdy case water-resistant to 200m, its large screw-locked crown fitted with protective reinforcements and its unidirectional rotating bezel, the Colt Chronograph Automatic boldly flaunts its military origins. Equipped with a 44 mm-diameter satin-brushed steel case, the watch is distinguished by its high resistance carbon-based coating while the Volcano Black dial is enlivened by a fine circular raised motif. The model’s readability is reinforced by oversized hands and hour-markers which are further enhanced by a luminescent coating, and a red central chronograph seconds hand. Designed for adrenaline and adventure aficionados, the Colt Chronograph Automatic Blacksteel stands out with its four ‘rider tabs’, a signature Breitling feature, ensuring both excellent handling of the rotating bezel and optimal protection of the sapphire crystal glareproofed on both sides.

Avenger II Seawolf Blacksteel

Water-resistant to the depth of 3,000m, the bold diving watch combines performance and exclusivity in a 1,000-piece limited series, with just 50 models available for the Middle East market. Furnished with a black steel case and yellow dial, this exceptional model flaunts all the distinctive characteristics one would expect from a champion of the abyss. Equipped with an ultra-sturdy 45 mm-diameter case, the case comes with a decompression valve serving to balance out pressure differences both inside and outside the watch as the wearer changes depths. A unidirectional rotating bezel is used to calculate dive times and is fitted with four rider tabs to facilitate handling even with gloves. The striking model also comes with a double-gasket screw-locked crown with protective reinforcements and non-slip grip.

Twin Turbo

Originally founded in 1986 in New York, Jacob & Co this year celebrates its 30 years. To mark this new decade of innovation and audacity, the house is launching a sports Grande Complication model keeping with its expertise and the youthful vigor of this thirty-year-old company. The Twin Turbo combines two triple-axis tourbillons and a minute repeater. Through a poising system, these tourbillons maintain a consistent rate set at 40 seconds, 3 minutes and 4 minutes per cycle so as to turn symmetrically and at the same pace. Its sporty look combines titanium and carbon that provide ultra lightness. Inspired by automotive design, its flange is trimmed in red neoralithe and the smoked sapphire crystal opens on to its impressive motor featuring two triple-axis tourbillons.

Astronomia Clarity

This model has a sapphire case unveiling the precious Astronomia Gravitational Triple Axis Tourbillon, the iconic manufacture movement of the brand. While all traditional watch movements are engineered horizontally, in 2014 Jacob & Co. revolutionised the watchmaking industry by presenting the Astronomia Grand Complication, the first Gravitational Triple Axis Tourbillon vertically built. This impressive tridimensional movement captures the heart of watch-lovers through a mesmerising ballet of the four satellites in constant motion. The sapphire of the Astronomia Clarity is crystallised using the Kyropoulos method to reach the highest purity.

Astronomia Sky

Just like mankind fascinated since the dawn of time by the observation of the night sky, Jacob & Co. drew its inspiration from the astronomical town clocks, which are true technical and aesthetic masterpieces. In 2014, Jacob & Co had already stunned the watch industry with the launch of the Astronomia Gravitational Triple Axis Tourbillon. This year, it takes the challenge even further with the Astronomia Sky by adding a never-before-seen complication, a sidereal display in three dimensions combined with an oval sky indicator and a 24-hour day and night display.

Galet for Women

‘Galet’ is the French word for pebble, and inspiration for this collection was drawn from this piece of nature. Simplicity, purity and smoothness are the key elements of the design of the Galet Collection, which evokes calm and tranquillity.

The Vanguard Lady

The new feminine interpretation features both dynamic and graceful characteristics. The distinct coloured numerals adorning the sun-stamped dial perfectly complement the sporty and bold design of the case. Completed by a stylish line on the side of the case to match the colour of the strap, together with coloured stitches on the strap emphasise a feminine harmony.

Giga Tourbillon   

The new Giga Tourbillon is an exceptional model that required an extremely accurate development by a very dedicated. The barrels are first paired in series to double the operating reserve, they are then assembled parallel to one another so that the power of the movement is doubled. Another special feature is that this exceptional movement has been reversed, with the bridges placed on the dial side, the hour setting and winding section located at the base and the hour hand  uniquely positioned on the minute hand

Mariner   

Created in 2008 by Franck Muller, the Mariner line has been modelled on the successful Casablanca Chronograph collection. Eye catching distinctive marine symbols such as the blue wind rose and compass have been thoughtfully placed for dramatic effect on the new black or white Cintrée Curvex shaped dials. The colour of the sea, featured on the skeleton numerals and hands, immediately evokes the feeling of the marine, inspiration for this new collection of timepieces.

Gravity   

The new Gravity features a spectacular concept of tourbillon cage demonstrated by its innovative elliptical structure. Wholly in-house designed and manufactured, the bridge and the pillars of the tourbillon have been completely reinvented into an elliptical circle, giving the timepiece a three dimensional aspect.

Maître Cabinotier Retrograde Armillary Tourbillon

In the wake of the most complicated watch ever made, the Ref. 57260 with 57 complications, Vacheron Constantin unveils the Maître Cabinotier retrograde armillary tourbillon model. This timepiece bearing the Hallmark of Geneva was produced by the three master watchmakers who created Ref. 57260, and they incorporated two of the complicated features of the superwatch, the armillary tourbillon and the double retrograde indication. Its contemporary styling opens the remarkable structure of the calibre 1990 movement to view. The high-precision manually wound movement is housed in a 45.7mm case in white gold. Four patent applications have been filed for this unique model.

Historiques

The Historiques collection, dedicated to Vacheron Constantin’s creative archetypes, highlights the wealth of the technical and aesthetic heritage of the Manufacture through contemporary reinterpretations. New models are now reviving three icons much sought after among collectors. Inspired by a legendary 1955 chronograph, the Cornes de vache 1955 model is interpreted in pink gold, while the emblematic cushion-shaped American 1921 and the remarkable Ultra-fine 1955 with its 1.64 mm-thin gold caliber appears clothed in platinum.

Malte Moon Phase and Power Reserve

Embodying an appealing blend of purity and sophistication, the new Malte Moon Phase and Power Reserve model displays the assertive personality and elegant style of the creations composing this collection. The Malte collection with its emblematic barrel shape expresses the inventiveness and elegance of Vacheron Constantin. Bearing the Hallmark of Geneva, the Malte Moon Phase and Power Reserve model features a barrel-shaped watch in pink gold. Equipped with a high-precision gear train, the moon-phase mechanism also known as an ‘astronomical moon’ requires just one correction every 122 years.

Around The World in 24 Hours

The Voyager GMT features a distinctive case with a shape that has never been seen on a Louis Vuitton timepiece. Midway between a circle and a square, it is a result of the constant quest for creativity that has been the founding spirit behind La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton. Its reduced thickness, compact diameter and optimal wearability make it a functional watch for everyday use, and its GMT complication means it is perfect for travellers.

The Voyager GMT’s dial was conceived based on the letter V, the signature originally designed by Gaston-Louis Vuitton. As the House’s great innovator, he made it his personal emblem. This dynamic letter is at once an initial, a signature, an arrow and a watch hand. It indicates 12 o’clock and forms the steel bridge that supports its dial. With a satin finish along its entire length, and polished edges, it contrasts with the sunny dial and polished case. Its tip serves as an indicator for the GMT, the complication which gave its name to this model.

The Voyager GMT is available in a range of bracelets, each of which are exceptional in terms of both comfort and finish. As a trunk maker and leather goods specialist with vast ancestral expertise in working with leather, Louis Vuitton uses the House’s Taurillon leather for this watch. It is slightly grained and extraordinarily supple. Alternatively, the Voyager GMT may be worn with a steel bracelet that has been crafted specifically for the occasion. Its links are an alternating series of polished and satin finishes, a testament to the House’s singular commitment to quality.

During the Cannes 69th Film festival we met with Caroline at the Chopard Lounge at rooftop of the Martinez hotel, a ritual we do every year and we had the following chat about the brand’s latest collections and news.

You’ve been the Official Partner of Cannes Film festival since 1998 showing glamour on the red carpet. Tell us about the “Red Carpet” collection this year and its inspiration. It is 69 pieces right?

Yes, this is an ongoing collection and we add 1 piece each year in line with how old the festival is. We started that at the 60th film festival when Chopard celebrated a 10 year partnership.

The collection this year is very colourful and modern in design. Lots of titanium pieces mixed with gold. We have a lot of high jewellery necklaces that are not around the neck, but long dropping necklaces and chandelier earrings that I’ve been working on for years. I went back and revisited the Cashmere collection and the oriental paisley pattern. The inspiration stays the same. It is and will always be women from around the world.

After the fairmined gold and the fairmined Opals, the showstopper this year was the fairmined Emerald? Tell us more.

This year we are finally working with precious stones and coloured stones. It is a very complicated subject, since with emeralds there is no real norm for certification like there is with diamonds and gold. So with Eco Age we applied the same criteria as we did with gold, to ensure the highest standards:

• Mines are safe.
• People get fixed salaries.
• No children working.
• No terrorist money involved.
• When they mine they don’t spoil the planet.

We work with Gemfields because they have different mines. This one is in Zambia and they are the most advanced within the standards.

Do you think the clients today care whether the stone is farmined or not? Does it affect their decision?

The ultimate luxury is to know how your product, jewellery, or haute couture piece, is made and if it is produced in an ethical way.

Last year it was a collaboration with Marion Cotillard. How was the collaboration with Julianne Moore this year?

She’s a beautiful soul and such a beautiful and balanced person. She’s an actress with great talent and she’s very involved. I met her in New York, where we had a great time doing interviews together. She’s really a great spirit and a great family person.

Red Carpet Collection 2016

What can you tell us about the watch collections released in Basel this year?

We had two important bursts this year. We started to celebrate the 20 years of the L.U.C manufacture. My brother has presented some anniversary pieces and there will be more towards the year.

On the ladies’ side, we celebrate 40 years of the “Happy Diamond” concept with a whole new collection with lots of colours and precious stones. It is such a strong concept and it really is our DNA at Chopard that sets us apart from our industry colleagues.

Happy Diamonds

What is a challenge you face today?

The challenge is to really be active and control your markets. We were very influenced by price fluctuations of currencies all of a sudden and we had to adapt as we go on. But so far “touch wood” we are at the same level as last year.

If you look at what you’ve done so far, what do you still want to achieve?

There are always some goals that I set to myself. One goal is definitely the green initiative, since it is something so close to my heart. I hope to stimulate other companies to start doing it, I don’t want to be the only one. It has to come from all sides. From demands, from consumers, and the products that we offer as jewellers and watch houses. I am really trying to lobby everybody, the banks, the clients, the mines, my friends and the partners we work with. I still have many dreams. However, I am superstitious so will not tell you!

How do you describe your personal style?

I like easy dressing during the day, and in the evening I love the glamour. I like to mix styles. I don’t necessarily like the big labels, well maybe a piece, but then I mix it with Zara or Topshop because I think it’s more fun. I travel a lot so my suitcase always has a pair of jeans, T-shirts, sneakers, always a little black dress, and a long dress since you don’t know what can come up. The other day I was in Kazakhstan and got invited to a wedding so I was running around last minute to find a dress. So I always pack prepared.

What is your favourite precious stone?

If it’s coloured it’s Emerald, but Diamond remains king.

How do you spend your “me-time”?

I like nature, and I like animals, which is why I made the animal collection. I love the sea. My time off is on a boat without the phone or my watch. I just want to wake up when I want and swim when I want with some friends.

What’s a life lesson or motto you live by?

You have to be ambitious. No is not an answer. You have to be positive and open-minded. I always say a smile doesn’t cost anything. Smile a lot, as when you’re older wrinkles go up and when you’re grumpy you’ll look old.

What do you like to tell the women of the Middle East?

I am very happy and proud that we are appreciated in the Middle East. A big thank you and I hope our new creations attract our clients that are our friends of the house.

By Lara Mansour Sawaya

During the SIHH fair earlier this year we had the pleasure to meet Tim at the Audemars Piguet booth and we had the following chat.

What are the novelties that we are seeing this year at Audemars Piguet?

In 2016, we have four main themes in terms of novelties:

A minute repeater watch, Supersonnerie, which is from the prototype series we presented last year when we presented a breakthrough chiming technology which basically gives you the loudest and most beautiful sounding minute repeater in the market. Now we have it as a real series with 3 patterns. That’s one big theme.

The second theme is another beautiful innovation in the Royal Oak collection which is a double balanced wheel, open worked, so you have a Royal Oak in 41mm case open worked but it has a new patented innovation which is a double balanced wheel so you have a second balanced wheel and a balanced spring stacked on one axis. It is skeletonised so you can see the action and the beating heart of the watch.

We are bringing the yellow gold back into the Royal Oak collection. As you know the yellow gold disappeared from pretty much all the leading brands. But the trend is coming back and we are seeing a lot of  customers wearing vintage pieces in yellow gold.

The fourth theme is a handful of different novelties for women: in Millenary, in Offshore but most importantly in the Royal Oak collection where we have different sizes available now also in non-set. There was a lot of demand on non-set gold or steel. We have 4 different case sizes; 33 mm, 37 mm, 39 mm, and 41mm. 37mm remains the most demanded size for women and the best seller.

Did you get the chance to walk around the fair? What caught your sight?

Yes and I saw a lot of beautiful things but our Audemars Piguet stand was the best.

ROYAL OAK CONCEPT SUPERSONNERIE

2015 saw a market slowdown, how do you forecast 2016 and what’s your strategy to sustain growth in markets like the Middle East?

Indeed, 2015 was a difficult year globally. The Swiss Franc depreciation, the Chinese market slowdown and political changes, the Russia- Ukraine issue, and the Middle East conflicts all together. That said, we are proud to say that we had a good year and even in the toughest markets we were holding up very well.

The Middle East Market is eight to ten percent of our global business, so it’s a very strong market for us. Asia and Europe make 35 to 40 percent and 20 percent America. We don’t depend on a specific region. We are super balanced.  In 2015, 90 percent of our markets were growing.

We noticed that some of the luxury watches brands are producing a sort of an “ affordable line” to appeal to a new clientele and maybe a younger one. Any future plans to move in that direction too?

No, and for a primary reason. We produce between 38 and 39 thousand watches. Our capacity for the next five years is maximum 40 thousand. We cannot and don’t want to grow volume. We have no reason. For us the strategy will be to  continue being  at the absolute apex of watchmaking and rather driving value by selling more complications than non-complicated pieces.

What’s the split between women and men buying Audemars Piguet?

We have 70 percent men customers and 30 percent women. This is a good balance and a natural split for a brand. For women we want to offer more complicated watches. We launched last year the Millenary watch, it’s not complicated per se but it’s with a 3D and open design movement. It’s rather in that direction to develop the business.

ROYAL OAK DOUBLE BALANCE WHEEL OPENWORKED

How long have you been with Audemars Piguet and what does it mean to you?

It’s interesting, since I joined 5 years ago coming from a totally different industry. It was an incredible journey of discovery in the Haute Horlogerie world and especially with Audemars Piguet.

ROYAL OAK YELLOW GOLD

ROYAL OAK CHRONOGRAPH

And today I can tell you that after 5 years being in the industry, there is no brand like Audemars Piguet.  I totally love this brand.

What watch are you wearing now?

I’m wearing a classical Royal Oak watch. It is the 15202 ST watch in the 39 mm case with the ultra flat movement. We launched this watch 4 years ago; it is the absolute redesign of the original Royal Oak from 1972. It was my first watch when I joined Audemars Piguet. If you ever need a watch that’s the watch to have!

Founder and Creative Director of de Grisogono, FAWAZ GRUOSI is charismatic and daring. He’s a man that takes risks and follows his passions. A&E caught up with him over coffee in Paris to talk about how it all began, his lessons learned and his drive for creative design.

What’s coming up for de Grisogono in the next few months?

There is always something coming up. We are trying to put up collections that will surprise people. We don’t want new collections to look similar to what we have already done. As usual, during the course of the year I create about 15 collections and at the end I choose four lines. You will see so many different things coming up.  For the retro-style watches, we launched last year, we made a ladies one only smaller but it had the same shape with stones: diamonds, sapphires and rubies. Lovivi, named after my youngest daughter Violetta, is a lovely little watch that looks like a bracelet. It’s a modern classic that is totally unusual. It’s a watch but also a bracelet. This year we will present it officially.

How challenging is it for you to come up with new novelties and make space for them where the luxury and retail industries are suffering?

Among each brand there is a CEO and 99 per cent of the CEOs existing these days don’t come from the jewellery or watch industries, they come from financial institutions, marketing and banking sectors. Their mind is set on the stock market. What investors want is to make profit and this is what is happening.  There is no passion for the pieces. They’ve never tried to touch a piece or make any jewellery. For one brand, they may sell a minimum of 1,100 rings, yet they produce 60,000. They end up with thousands of the same objects worldwide. New clients say they are fed up of companies like these because these products are something that everyone has. People think, why should they spend money on something that isn’t original, different or unique?

Lovivi Watches

Folies Collection

How did de Grisogono come to life?

I launched in 1993. I use to work with Harry Winston then Bulgari, when both brands were at the top of its game. I loved working for Harry Winston. I was sent to Saudi Arabia in 1978 until 1982. For the first 3 months it was a nightmare. I didn’t speak the language and had a collaborator and nothing was going on. I spent my days going back to my hotel and calling everyone in Europe. One day at a restaurant, I saw a beautiful blonde, she asked me if I liked living in Jeddah and I said I didn’t because I didn’t know anyone. That night, she invited me to a dinner party. I was picked up by a man who took me to a house in the middle of nowhere. I was a bit scared actually. I met her boyfriend and her friends and that night changed my life totally.

I began to enjoy Jeddah. I was going to the office for two hours a day and I was always with them for lunch and dinner; then I started to get new business. People wanted gifts for friends, family, work associates and ministers. Back then, on a bad day I sold half a million US dollars and on a good day I sold 8.2 million US dollars. The company asked me to stay longer. I said I would think about it as I had already lost contact with reality living there. Life was easy. I did it for another three years. I moved after and Bulgari hired me. They offered me a position to be vice president, worldwide. There weren’t many existing shops then but now they have over 300 globally. I was always travelling and living in hotels all over the world. I had a good life. I worked with them for up to eight years. I resigned because there was jealousy in the family with two of the brothers so I left and I was so depressed about it. But I realised that I had worked for the best so I could work anywhere. I sold stones to people that I knew.  I opened a shop but I didn’t have enough money so I found two friends to open it with. I was lost and scared about it. After opening, I decided to design. My associates thought I was out of my mind. We fought about it and they didn’t support the idea so I bought them out. That is how it started.

You are always in the spotlight but I think you are calm, quiet and shy. What can you tell us about your character? You are the face of brand, but what about the person behind it?

I’ve always been sociable from the very beginning. When I launched the brand, actresses like Sophia Loren came to the opening along with local newspapers. I was proud of my achievements. After about five months I hired great US music artists for events at the best clubs. 600 people came to them. All were very rich people. We hired a PR, got models to attend and all of these things served the brand.

The brand and I are inseparable. It is me.

Am I extremely shy? Well, I never remember names. Today, I had lunch with people and I didn’t know who I was talking to. I become an actor most of the time. I act and pretend but I don’t remember names. On my phone I do not know who is who. I hate to sell nowadays. I haven’t for many years. I don’t want to be in the public eye so much.

Any regrets?

I am proud of myself and that I had the courage to start this company. I knew I was going somewhere and once it started the success was fast. After three years I had opened two more shops. I don’t have so much freedom now and I have a lot of responsibilities. I lost friends. I still see them but it is not the same anymore. I used to see them everyday. I regret losing contact with them. Same with my daughters, I see them but it is not very often, and I regret that too.

Any life lessons you want to share or mottos you live by?

If you have an idea and you believe in it just do it.  I had an idea to launch the brand and I just did it. When I have a feeling I go with my intuition and I am often right. I have passion for my beliefs. But today it is harder to just do things with a big brand since I have to go through so many people with an idea and convince all of them that we can’t just go with numbers.

September 2016 marks our 10-year anniversary for A&E, what was your objective for the first 10 years of de Grisogono?

My first 10 years’ objective was to STOP working, to be so successful to stop working and enjoy life. And then I realised I love my work and  never want it to stop! Congratulations  Adam & Eve.

Since 1868, the Swiss watch manufacturers IWC Schaffhausen have been creating masterpieces of Haute Horlogerie that combine precision engineering with exclusive design. CEO, Georges Kern is a force to be reckoned with.  In 2000, at 36 years old, he joined the Richemont Group. He was active in the integration of the Group’s acquisition of A. Lange & Söhne, Jaeger-LeCoultre and International Watch Company as a result he was the youngest CEO within Richemont. With a passion for innovation and technical inventiveness, Kern talks to a&e during SIHH earlier this year, about the philosophy, future plans and new models of IWC.

What is coming up for IWC?

We are re-launching our Pilots line, which is very much in the style of the ‘30s and ‘40s. It’s a gentleman’s pilot that is stylish and less warrior than what we had with the Top Gun collection five years ago. We want to make it more elegant. IWC has been growing tremendously with the Portugieser and the Pilot lines. Today, the image of the brand is more elegant rather than sporty. We reworked the Pilot line in terms of execution, colors and matt polish. We wanted to reflect a more elegant approach towards the product.

On a global level how successful has IWC been this year?

We need to get used to the crisis; this is the new normal. It’s an illusion if people believe we are going to have a gold rush like we have done particularly in Hong Kong. I think the drama of our generation will be that we will wake up every morning with a new product, new prices, new tags and a new exchange rate, and we will have to just get use to it. That will be the new normal. What you need to do is build something that is solid enough to sail through beautiful weather but also go through storms.

Consumers are looking for sure values and they don’t want to experiment. There are very few real watch brands in the market. When you purchase jewelry or bags you go for the real brand and IWC is one of them. The consumer wants a brand with history, an image and good service. The global appeal, global visibility and the actual situation are not that bad. I believe we are stronger than the others so we gain market share.

What about the future of woman’s watches?

We launched the midsize watch two years ago and it was a huge success. We were mature enough to go onto a new segment. We were making men’s watches so it seemed natural to do women’s too, but in a different style. Our women’s watches are not “girly”. We launched the 36mm watch because we have women that don’t want a really small watch; they want something more robust. I think we hit the nail on the head with that segment and I was really surprised how successful it was. There will be four lines in total offering these products for woman.

We are going to make more money than most brands do with our female lines. We have huge potential; 60 per cent of the watch market comprises of female watches. Our style is not fashion led. Our number one line remains the Portugieser because of its value. Volume wise the Portofino and the Pilot are bigger but at different price points.

Tell us about the new IWC Connect? Are smart watches the future?

The IWC Connect is a wearable watch but it’s not a smart watch although it has a receiver. It is integrated with a strap, which has an option to connect you to an app. For instance, you can have Spotify, you can also track your sleep. It’s the idea to stay modern and to offer beautiful modern options.

What I have seen others wear isn’t very appealing. I’ve not been convinced with what I’ve seen, touched and tried, so it was important to get it right.  Our Connect watch is an integration of beauty and wearable aesthetics. The IWC Connect answers the needs of discerning customers by providing a high-quality luxury design solution: it not only tracks the wearer’s activities, but also allows them to interact with connected devices in their environment.

Smart watches are making millions but it is not affecting the luxury watchmaking industry. Connect watches are different; it’s like you have a beautiful car and you just want to connect your iPhone with your car. No one will swap his or her watches worth several thousands of dollars for a smart watch.  We’ll just create something nice, better and appealing for the consumer. You need to constantly improve what you are doing and look for excellence. It is about perfection and excellence.

Your logo is engineered for men, if you are making more women’s watches because of the success of the Portofino line, are you going to keep your logo for the women’s line?

When we launched Le Petit Prince we wrote: “Engineered for dreamers.” For Lewis Hamilton we wrote: “Engineered for champions.” The headline is something that can easily be adapted. We will keep the logo “Engineered for men”, but add a new element to it. It remains an engineering brand that is technical and masculine but it will cater for different people.

What do you think makes a collection successful?

I have been here for 14 years. More than 50 per cent of the things that have happened at IWC were formed because of intuition and luck. For instance, one day I was on a plane and I happen to sit next to a friend of mine who studied with me in the past. We had not seen each other for five years. We were both flying to Paris but I was going to Nice. His family was related to Antoine de Saint Exupéry who was a French pilot and we thought we can do something together and so we did.  We created the Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Edition “Antoine de Saint Exupéry” and the Pilot’s Watch Double Chronographe Edition “Antoine de Saint Exupéry”. That was an example of destiny, luck and intuition.  Any guy that tells you that he has a five-year plan is a liar.  It’s all about following your intuition.

What do you think are the future problems in the watch industry?

I think technically anything is possible. There will be more industrialization issues rather than innovations issues; we will question budgets to make a product or how can we reduce service cycles. Innovation is more about the design. There has been genius’s over 100 years ago that have done everything. Our issue is digital transformation, meaning how we communicate with a customer in a modern way through digital. How do you sell analogue watches through digital? In terms of innovation, I’m not sure there will be anything revolutionary in the next few years.

Before, there was a fixation about the marketing turmoil because of oil prices. We questioned how it would affect the watch industry? There will be political, social stability with oil prices, but you cannot think in geographical terms anymore because the world is global. The Chinese make 70 percent of sales in France. We are working with a global travelling clientele. 60 percent of all luxury sales made are made from people buying from abroad and not local. And even local means travelling from LA to New York, but it is still travelling. We are in total mobility. The Middle Eastern people are buying in New York and Paris; the Chinese are buying from the UAE. Also when you are on holiday you’re in the mood of buying. You will consume when you are in a good mood and if you feel at peace, not just when you have money, so we need stability.

How important is sponsorship for IWC?

First it is a lot less money than what it looks. There are so many things to consider with a brand. It is like a planet and you have satellites feeding the planet. You have PR and celebrities. The good thing about the luxury industry market is that there are no rules and no recipes. If there were recipes everyone would be successful. And not everyone is.

We use celebrities and PRs for advertising and events. US actor, Chris Evans is one of our ambassadors. He has several million followers on Instagram. One picture can get millions of likes. We work with Middle Eastern ladies too who have millions of followers. We have reached out to several million contacts and created millions of impressions in just one night working with these celebrities and influencers.

President and CEO of TAG Heuer for 13 years before arriving at Bulgari in 2013, CEO Babin brought plenty of watch brand leadership with him. He nevertheless had to adjust to the complexity of the Bulgari brand as it comprises five different businesses, jewellery, watchmaking, fragrances and cosmetics, accessories, and luxury hotels. During a meeting at the Grand Hotel du Cap Ferrat, a hotel which embodies the classic glamour and timeless chic of both Bulgari and the French Riviera, Babin talks about the adjustment and his passion for fast cars.

What accessories convey your personality and style, and how?

I am not much of an accessories man, but thank goodness I am short sighted so I can wear the Bulgari eyewear, which is a new collection. It is very cool and contemporary, but with an Italian sophistication which is something that is always present in our jewellery. Usually our main accessories tend to be more conventional, but what I love from Bulgari across the board is that the pieces are stylish but also breaking some commercial codes.

Aside from high jewellery and timepieces, what other collector’s items interest you?

I am not really a collector in the sense that I don’t mind having many of what I like. So for watches I have 5 or 6 that I personally cherish, from Bulgari and also some other brands, because you know collecting goes beyond your job. It is something like art, you can’t like just one sculptor or painter. When it comes to cars I don’t need to have many, but the few I have need to speak to my heart and my senses. It could be the smell of the leather or the noise of the engine, just something that you love yourself and not something you need to show off. My car doesn’t need to be red to be exciting.

Your background was originally with watchmaking before joining Bulgari, has this translated well to the jewellery market?

To some extent the two categories are pretty similar, as they are both ornamental products. Watches have started to become far more complicated, because they have a function to provide you with the time, day after day, year after year, making them quite complex to craft. However, jewellery is more ornamental. It is about how credible the design is, and that it stays consistent with what the brand stands for. They both speak to each other a lot, as they all have the same Roma inspirations, and they all break the rules in their own way.

How have you adjusted to working across a brand with so many facets?

It prevents me from edging too fast. It is very exciting as the temptation is to go into further categories. However, instead we want to stay in the categories and bind them closer, which is what we try to do with the snake which is a major symbol and is present across the board, even the fragrances remind you of the snake. It is important that the customers invest in the same story and lifestyle, making the experience unique.

Are there some areas of the business that you have more of an affinity with and passion for?

It would probably be the hotels as I travel a lot. I actually don’t feel the difference between being at home and being at a Bulgari hotel. Even before I joined Bulgari I always preferred their hotels and felt at home there. For someone travelling often, the real luxury is to feel good in a hotel, and that is why they are special. Also being a man, watches speak to me so I have an affinity with this sector. Because of this I always have a passion for watch design, whereas when it comes to jewellery I can never completely understand how a woman can be so passionate about it, as it is not something that I wear myself.

By not being entirely dependent on one market or one source of business, does this give the brand more stability during these uncertain times?

I think beyond financials and in terms of creativity is an extraordinary stimulator. Your vision and ideas if working on one category can lean towards becoming a bit conservative as you aren’t experiencing diversity. Whereas when you have 5 different divisions across the board, you are getting ideas from 5 different businesses. The snake actually originated from the watch, has now spread across the board, and this illustrates how being in different businesses can bring more ideas to the core business. When it comes to financials, a brand which covers many different markets has the advantages of their different cycles. Fine jewellery is rare and less frequent, however we also have highly frequent fragrance market. Combining these different cycles gives you stability over the year aids a healthier growth.

Which collections are the most successful for Bulgari? Why would you say they are?

No discussion, I would say the Serpenti, the B.Zero1, and the Diva. One is hugely symbolic, one came straight from colosseums of Roma and the third comes from mosaics, in homage to the brands historic heritage. So they are all expressing signs and monuments from very ancient times, although the way that we have reinterpreted them has been extremely contemporary.

Rome is what distinguishes the brand from other high jewellery companies. How do you ensure this heritage remains?

Obviously it starts from the creativity objective and constraints that you give to the designers. We are not too specific when it comes to the high jewellery but it must lead to express Roma, the Mediterranean and Italian lifestyle. Some may express it more than others, for example, Diva may be a bit more farfetched and feminine. However, we always have a brief, even though it is flexible and nothing is forced, to ensure that nothing will come out the workshop completely disconnected from what we stand for.

How would you describe the brand DNA?

Roma is an essential part, the Dolce Vita and Italian lifestyle. Then there is the cool, joyful, luxury and of course the boldness. We never hesitate to do what we think is right.

By Eliza Scarborough

Richard Mille displays innovation, technique and design, together with a passion for fast cars.

Richard Mille, founder of his eponymous brand, gives us an insight into what sets the brand apart from everyone else, and the masterwork that goes into the mechanical marvels.

How heavy is the weight of looking after a brand that carries your name?

Hard but lots of fun and challenges all at the same time. I take our work very seriously indeed, and I never allow anything to slip from my attention, because I have very specific ideas about haute horlogerie coupled with how I perceive and experience true luxury. The brand is a very personal entity for me, so insuring the brand’s continuing success and rise to the top is a very intimate part of my everyday life, in that way it’s more than merely a business.

Tell us about the Richard Mille brand DNA and what sets you apart.

This ‘DNA’ connotation is so dated and overused these days. I would prefer to talk about the essence of the brand. Why? Because the word essence is also about essentials, and this underlines our approach, everything we do is because we find it absolute necessary and essential. For instance, when we create a design for any watch in the collection, whether basic or super complicated or jewellery piece, it must follow our vision and quality, as there is no cost cutting allowed. Even tiny things like torque screws that one might not notice are made to our exacting specifications. The use of more expensive to cut, mill and finish titanium is used for many movement parts instead of traditional German silver. ‘Naked’ movements show every detail to its owner, so that no defects can be hidden, and we offer the most ergonomic fit to the wrist with difficult to produce curved cases and matching straps. This is only a very partial list, I could fill pages, but I think you get the picture…..

It is said that with the RM 001 Tourbillion a new era of watchmaking started. What is it that Richard Mille added to the industry?

It was a shot across the bow of the ship so to speak. Here was a high end tourbillon, made in a titanium case, with many titanium movement parts, with the movement open from the front and the back, in a new style of tonneau case that hugged the wrist unlike any other. It had top rated chronometric results combined with a layout and design that used the mechanism and assembly of the watchcase as elements of a new and advanced yet subtle language of design in horology. There was nothing like it, before or after.

Why is the Richard Mille watch considered one of the most expensive watches?

Normally in the Swiss watch industry, you create a model with a projected price point and target audience planned in advance. The ‘ceiling’ on the projected price point dictates exactly how the execution of the final watch will turn out. In our case, it is the exact opposite condition. We create an uncompromised vision of how it should be, and that’s it. At the end of the day, all the production, planning, R&D and material costs involved are added up and the price point is calculated according to the real and direct costs incurred. Some people think I am in the market of creating so-called ‘Veblen goods’, attractive just because they are expensive. The fact is that I am simply being very accurate in calculations. Like I already mentioned, we will not stand for compromise. If that means that our watches are expensive and therefore fewer people can purchase them, then that’s how it has to be, we must stay true to our vision.

© Didier Gourdon

You’ve partnered with Formula 1. Such partnerships are a big commitment for the brand. What do you expect in terms of return on investment and in which markets?

You might think I am crazy, but I don’t analyse these aspects in the traditional business manner. First of all, I am a total car fanatic, I collect racing cars, work on restorations, read about their history and follow all the newest developments, also even those in the field of electric racing cars, which we also promote. So, I can say that I totally enjoy working with F1 drivers and cars for this reason, so my hobby and my work come perfectly together at such moments. Secondly, the connection with a car brand brings many complex forms of inspiration for our engineers and production team in Les Breuleux, Swiss Jura. Such partnerships give birth to new R&D ideas, new design inspiration and exciting concepts. These areas of the partnership cannot be given a direct valuation, they are priceless for us and for the brand’s development and future.

Tell us more about the RM 68-01 tourbillon that was created in collaboration with the artist Cyril Kongo, and why he was chosen?

Cyril fully understands the art world, yet he wants to do things his own way, and he does not like to follow the mainstream. So we both are tuned to the same wavelength. When you search for an artist, you have to realise that not every artistic possibility can be executed physically within a wristwatch, and not every artist is prepared to take up certain challenges. In addition, an artist must feel comfortable working with all the constraints, so it takes a lot of time and energy to research, initiate and execute projects like this one. Kongo took up the challenge and enjoyed it fully with a fantastic result. For the first time ever, an artist has transferred his universe of the tremendously large to the heart of a watch movement in a symbiotic way, making it bigger than life, a universe unto itself.   

Last year the RM 19-02 Tourbillion Fleur was the showstopper at SIHH 2015, and it was our favourite. Tell us about this year’s novelties.

To get the fullest information, our website is really the best source, and we work very hard indeed to keep it perfectly updated and informative for this reason. I would need a whole page to go into every detail of all the new pieces here, but a quick list in any case would cover the new fountain pen, the S05, made of NTPT carbon with its retractable nib construction. The fountain pen took almost four years to research and develop before emerging as an exceptional, highly technological, one-of-a-kind object. The movement is based on a skeletonised baseplate and bridges made of grade 5 titanium. There is also the highly complicated RM 50-01 ACJ split seconds tourbillon, made in co-operation with Airbus Corporate Jets. This involved a combination of allusions to the materials, shapes, colours and visual aspect of the aircraft, and of course, most importantly the very high mechanical complexity of the movement, which echoes the complexity of the aircraft’s mechanical design. The latest Rafael Nadal watch, the RM 35-02 automatic is available in two versions of case, in Quartz-TPT Red or in carbon NTPT, it is a total showstopper! With the fabulous RM 67-01 extra flat automatic, we wanted to create an elegant everyday timepiece, and kept the classic, curved tonneau shape but we went to great efforts to keep the movement layout and design elements highly detailed, retaining our three dimensional approach. The aforementioned RM 68-01 Cyril Kongo Tourbillon and more coming soon…You see, I almost never sit still for long!   

What do you think the high-end watch industry lacks today and how do you think it can be developed?

The tradition behind watchmaking should never be ignored and should be kept and cherished. However, that being said, if new materials, concepts and approaches for the future of the watch industry are not utilised and developed, then I believe there is a chance that the industry will be left behind or side-lined by other impulses. That is why almost everyone looking for very high-end Swiss timepieces are looking at small and privately owned brands, as well as independents, in order to find great examples of haute hologerie today.

FRONT: TOURBILLON SPLIT SECONDS CHRONOGRAPH RM 50-02 ACJ

RICHARD MILLE RM 67-01 AUTOMATIC EXTRA FLAT

Tell us about Richard Mille and women? What do you think of their interest in complex watches? Are there any best sellers among the Richard Mille watches that women love?

I have always said that the key to a woman’s heart is to offer her many possibilities and moods to choose from, and this is what I set out to do. The ladies’ collection has been greatly enlarged the last few years with different models as well as accessories like two types of precious metal straps as well as rubber and a variety of new colours of regular straps.  Novel materials have made their entrance, such as different coloured ceramics combined with gold, or cases completely in pink sapphire, more technically inspired watches with function indicator and easy date adjustment to elegant automatics and high end jewellery pieces with extreme complications like the Fleur Tourbillon you mentioned. Literally, every base is covered, and every year there will more and more new ladies’ timepieces being launched.

How do you describe the brand’s performance in the Middle East and what’s your strategy to strengthen your presence in that market?

We have always been strong in the Middle East, because our distributor for that region is well equipped for, and in tune with this market, and the people and personalities there. In addition, one of the main issues for this region is to have lots of new and unique timepieces to offer.   

What’s next for Richard Mille?

Our formula for success has been working perfectly since the beginning, so I have no plans to change anything really. That means several new and exciting timepieces being created every year, more new materials being developed and implemented in watches, more novel high level complications, more showstoppers for the women as well as the men, and more models to fit every occasion and every desire you could have for a timepiece.

Can we have a hint of what we can expect to see at SIHH 2017?

My lips are sealed shut on that topic. All I can say is, there will be lots more fabulous Richard Mille creations presented that will drive people crazy with desire!

September 2016 marks our 10-year anniversary for A&E, what was an objective you’ve set when you celebrated the brand’s 10th anniversary? And what do you still aspire to achieve?

When the brand was 10, I celebrated the fact that we had ‘arrived’ to a specific level of ‘adulthood’. That is to say, neither the watch industry nor the watch public could bagatellize us, we were established as a remarkable young brand that succeeded against all odds. We were proven to be serious and no-one could afford to ignore us or what we were doing. The years following are the years of consolidation and growth. All I want to do is slightly raise production by a few hundred units per year, at the same time keeping the brand absolutely exclusive, and concentrating on opening more flagship boutiques around the world to ensure that the Richard Mille brand becomes stronger and stronger. In addition, the opening of new boutiques allows us to provide even better service to our customers everywhere worldwide. Watches, like cars, need regular servicing and oiling, and we want all Richard Mille owners to have the best service possible for years to come. This kind of personal contact with a boutique is an essential part of what real luxury is about.   

In your opinion what are 3 pillars of success in the haute horlogerie industry?

In my view there are four pillars for any serious brand that expects to be successful. Uncompromised quality of workmanship, excellent design, and exclusivity, combined with top-rate after sales service.

What is a motto you live by?

Even the best will never be good enough, one must always go further to the next level in order to grow and develop.

As you are answering our questions, tell us what watch are you wearing and why?

I am at the present wearing a prototype of one of the new Cyril Kongo timepieces for my own pleasure. He designed it so that as the watch ticks, the relationships between the moving parts create new patterns, and I enjoy seeing this subtle effect throughout the day. Our watches have always been inspired by a marriage of technique and art, exactly like a sexy sports car, but in this case, the art we create has art inside, the art of timekeeping!

By Lara Mansour Sawaya

I’ve always known that he rarely gives out interviews, however it was always an objective to meet the man behind the Florentine born brand known for its exclusive design and deep-rooted links to the sea.  Earlier this year we met in Geneva during SIHH (Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie). Passion for Panerai, destiny, and thinking of the future were the highlight of our “from the heart” chat.

Looking around today and seeing all those novelties, what do you think the market still lacks?

I’ve heard apparently that there are a lot of watch brands that are trying to go back to simplicity. The market is not so enthusiastic. In my opinion the brands are trying to present something new. You see a lot of classic and less sporty watches except for brands like IWC and Panerai.

All brands are looking for quality. We have to always propose something different but qualitative.

With the current market slowdown, what’s your strategy to sustain a healthy market share?

The economy is always in an up and down mode. Today it is narrow but hysteric. There is a lot of pressure: Financial crisis, terrorism, etc. and with the Chinese market declining in terms of economy, together all this is creating a major difficulty.

When people look in a shortsighted manner they get worried. To many it will be like money in my pocket than being on my wrist. But personally I think luxury is volatile and it is emotional. There is always the tendency where people feel they want to work hard to buy something or achieve something. Despite the current momentum, am still positive.

You’ve built the Panerai legacy and you’ve been the CEO since 20 years, what is an objective you still aim to achieve?

It is simple! My goal from the start was to create and establish the timelessness of the brand and I want to continue doing that. Why? Because people will change but the brand stays.

When the brand doesn’t have the proper awareness, people wont believe in it and will have no emotions or will to buy it. That’s my future vision.

Who is your Panerai Customer?

From the beginning the Panerai customers are diverse. He could be a simple employee who is saving money to get a Panerai watch or a millionaire. The age is from 25 to 50 as a core. We also have 60 and 70 years old customers.

2 days a go we had an 18 year old Chinese customer who is a student living in London. He was wearing a million euro Richard Mille watch and he was asking for our Tourbillion watch. Just to let you know, today the world is changing enormously. The people who have money spend and the people that don’t have money are saving to obtain what we have.

Tell us how you and Panerai came together?

Listen.  Do you believe in Destiny? Well, destiny wanted to push me to Panerai.

In a particular moment of my life, the first time I saw Panerai was at Piazza Duomo in Milan. It was a no brand. It was a watch, an enormous, and a kind of military watch.

I called a friend of mine in Naples that day and told him: “why don’t we create a small company and distribute this watch”? Three days later he calls me back saying:  “forget it, Richemont is buying this brand and you can’t compete with that”. I knew he was right!

Don’t forget that at one point I was at Richemont working for Cartier but I left the group in order to have another international experience, so I worked with Richard Ginori porcelain and in Fashion with Trussardi.

One week later I got a call from Dr. Franco Cologni at Richemont where he had been closely involved with the Group’s watch brands, and asked me to come and see him because he had a new project he wanted to show me. He told me I’d be much better suited to the watch business than the porcelain business and said: “ why don’t you come back and work for this new brand”? He offered me the CEO position and I agreed on the spot. And that was how the story started.

What was your first watch?

It was a very thin 3mm rectangular Longines. It was a watch that I took from my cousin, as he never used it and I kept it for 3 years before returning it back.

My second one was a Seiko in 1970 because at that time the new electronic movement was dominating the markets; the Japanese companies destroyed the mechanical watch.

Then I landed on a Cartier watch followed by a Rolex.

What watch are you wearing today?

Radiomir 1940.

RADIOMIR 1940

You don’t appear much in media, why is that?

I think if you appear too much, people will lose interest! That’s my philosophy.

I am not Panerai, I am Mr. Bonati and I don’t want people to mix my person with the brand.

LUMINOR DUE Brand new case launched by Panerai this year.

But Panerai is a piece of you and has your DNA! You are its driving force, you’ve put so much years and passion.

Don’t say that! As I told you before, the brand should be timeless and the star not the person behind it. The brand gives the emotion not Bonati!

It is true I worked hard. It was the best experience of my life. And there was never a distinction between my job and my life. My job is my life!

I am working for the brand like a soldier, he can be a hero but he’s doing it for his nation.

How do you spend your free time when you have it?

With the IPhone and technology, work follows you everywhere. But when I have sometime, I love to stay on my boat or at my country house in the center of Italy in Tuscany overseeing the sea.

What is your personal motto?

I always love thinking about the future not the present or the past. Present for me is past and the past is gone. Thinking of the future keeps you active!

Last word.

Continue to love Panerai because it is the best.

By Lara Mansour Sawaya

Geophysic

The first glance reveals a clean-cut design that is the epitome of elegance and equilibrium. Each model in the Geophysic line features several layers of meaning. It gradually unleashes a powerful and innovative horological content expressed through classic characteristics. This refined and contemporary creation asserts its masculine nature in a number of subtle ways. The collection is named after a watch that belongs both to universal history and to the heritage of the Manufacture. In 1958, the International Geophysical Year, Jaeger-LeCoultre created a chronometer for scientists on mission. Capable of withstanding the magnetic fields of the North Pole while losing nothing of its formidable precision, its overriding characteristic was extreme resistance.

Reverso

RenéAlfred Chauvot officially patented his invention of a ‘wristwatch, which can slide on its base and flip over on itself’, and the Reverso watch was born. For the 85-year celebration of Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso model, the Swiss Maison is focusing on the individuality in the Atelier Reverso Collection, the client is able to choose between several spectacular materials for the case, dial and strap of the watch. Each of the five special images has an unquestionable hero or heroine, the brand-new Jaeger-LeCoultre Atelier Reverso watch, a watch from a Maison that keeps reinterpreting its image while always connecting with its history.   

Diagono Magnesium

Diagono by Bulgari is in a league of its own among sports watches. This technical and sophisticated collection readily adopts an urban, cosmopolitan attitude.The eminently graphic Diagono Magnesium took its own special place last year on the scene of sports watches entirely in tune with current values. Grace, strength, power and agility are instilled into this vibrantly high-impact masculine sports watch which now welcomes a much-loved horological complication in the shape of a self-winding chronograph movement. Developed, structured and assembled in a way comparable to that of the finest modern Italian sports cars, Diagono Magnesium is a compendium of technical sophistication, expressed through the high-tech parts composing its case, magnesium, ceramic, Motorlac and PEEK.

Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater

Following in the wake of the Octo Finissimo Tourbillon, launched in 2014 as the thinnest in the world, this development sets a new standard by combining extreme slenderness with the most elaborate horological complication. This year Octo continues exploring Finissimo movements. Enter the latest newcomer to the world of superlative horology, Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater, which earns the title of the smallest on the market, in a strictly limited 50-piece edition. A striking watch implies a number of specific construction constraints and requires a distinctive set of skills to achieve an intense, crystal-clear chime with a perfectly uniform and regular cadence. The in-house developed and produced BVL Calibre 362 measures just 3.12mm thick and the overall case thickness amounts to only 6.85mm.

Octo Ultranero

The bold Octo Ultranero watch celebrates its distinctive character in charcoal black with accents of warm pink gold. With its 110-facetted case in black D.L.C. coating, the Octo watch conjures up images of architecture, contemporary design and Italian sports cars. There are two interpretations of the watch to choose from. From D.L.C.-coated steel fitted with a black rubber strap subtly lit up only by pink gold hands, hour-markers, and crown, or the option of combining these elements with the addition of a pink gold case. The Octo Ultranero houses the world’s thinnest mechanical tourbillon movement, the Bulgari BVL 268 Finissimo caliber, which set a record, still unbroken today, at the time of its launch in 2014.

Serpenti Joaillerie

Given the timeless nature of the snake theme, Bulgari presents three new colourful and sparkling interpretations of the jewellery models. More classically fitted on a traditional ‘scaglie’ watch bracelet, featuring a characteristic design in which the head of the reptile rests on its tail, one features a bracelet adorned with mother-of-pearl and coral, a second combining mother-of-pearl and turquoise, and a third featuring onyx and coral.

Serpenti Spiga

The Serpenti snake now also appears in the form of the Spiga, a more rock’n’roll guise. This new watch immediately exudes a sense of voluptuous glamour dear to the heart of Bulgari designers and natural part of the Italian temperament. The diamond-set pink gold bezel, along with the bracelet lug and the serpent’s tail, also in pink gold, create a subtle contrast with the highly contemporary overall ceramic look. Serpenti Spiga embodies a technical challenge, since making a flexible and articulated Tubogas type bracelet in ceramic represents a new form of prowess from the Rome-based Maison.

Serpenti Tubogas

Long established as the leaders of the tubogas technique, Bulgari has once again brought a dazzling new twist to this much loved classic. As 2016 promises to be the year to celebrate Bulgari’s unique heritage as the masters of colour, the sleek Serpenti Tubogas ladies watch takes a bold bite in purple.

LVCEA Haute Joaillerie

This year, Bulgari offers a remarkable Haute Joaillerie version of Lucea. This 18-carat pink gold watch is entirely set with diamonds adorning the case and dial as well as the bracelet with its famous articulated links symbolising the Lucea collection. The intensively luminous High Jewelry versions gathers a total of 1,859 diamond gems, 10.9 carats and 117 grams of 18-carat pink gold.

Two iconic brands unite to create the most glamorous smartwatch. de Grisogono’s vision and boldness meet Samsung’s technological expertise and innovative design. A high-tech object is transformed into a glamorous accessory, creating a precious watch carrying the inimitable glamorous touch of the jeweller watchmaker de Grisogono and equipped with Samsung’s connected intelligence

This partnership between de Grisogono and Samsung goes far beyond cobranding, since both brands were driven by a determination to create an extraordinary product, the most glamorous smartwatch. The mutual respect between the two brands led Samsung to entrust its daring innovation to the creative hands of Fawaz Gruosi and to his watchmaking and jewellery artisans. The result is a jewellery watch designed and sculpted in gold housing Samsung Gear S2 technology. The diamond-set gold bezel turns freely around the dial, partially hidden at 6 and 12 o’clock beneath two black DLC-coated arches set with the emblematic de Grisogono black diamonds.

Hourstriker Horse

A noble creature ever-present in great battles, land crossings, humble work and elite competitions, the horse shares a deep connection with human beings. Ulysse Nardin celebrates this extraordinary animal with its Hourstriker Horse.  Crafting a collection of 28 pieces in 18ct rose gold or platinum, each edition features hand-carved Jaquemarts on a genuine black onyx dial. A sonnerie en passant with a rare automatic movement, the Hourstriker Horse plays on hour and half hours on demand or can be set to ‘gong’ the time in passing. Every time the hammer hits the gong, the horse Jaquemarts perform in concert.  

Diver Chronograph Hammerhead Shark

Ulysse Nardin celebrates an evolution with the Diver Chronograph Hammerhead Shark, featuring the self-winding manufacture chronograph caliber UN-150 with silicium escapement and balance spring.

A quintessential marine instrument – now made even more powerful by the UN-150 – the Diver Chronograph Hammerhead Shark is presented as a limited edition in both stainless steel and 18-karat rose gold 5N. Exceptionally nautical in style, both versions sport a deep blue dial with a signature hammerhead shark motif. A regal red accents the most notable elements on the timepiece’s face, including the luminous indexes, watch hands and even the lone shark. Its bezel stands out by its characteristic wave pattern, further emphasized by its ornamentation impressed into the rubber band. An azure rotor with the shark decoration is visible through the open, sapphire crystal case-back. Combined, every inch of detail creates a dramatic finishing effect.

Classico Schooner America

In August 1851, members of the New York Yacht Club raced the ‘America’ schooner to victory in England’s Royal Yacht Squadron’s 100 Pound Cup. After this triumph, the trophy was renamed the America’s Cup in honour of the winning vessel. Celebrating the ground-breaking engineering of the original ‘America’ that led to this landmark moment in yachting history and showing support of the 35th America’s Cup as an official partner of Team Artemis Racing, Ulysse Nardin introduces Classico America. A limited-edition of 30 pieces, each in 18-karat-white and rose-gold with enamel cloisonné, the Classico America is a winning timekeeper.

Marine Chronograph Annual Calendar 

They say the art of simplicity is a puzzle of complexity, and this timekeeper is no exception. The annual calendar offers a mechanical solution of the utmost elegance, favouring technological simplicity and ease of use. Simple to use, adjustable both on the front and back, this piece is imbued with the values of innovation, reliability and high-precision that are so cherished by the watchmaker.

Special Orders are a glorious tradition at Louis Vuitton, which has always taken pride in fulfilling its customers’ most exceptional requests.  From the legendary foldout trunk-bed designed by Louis and Georges Vuitton for expeditions to far-flung corners of the globe to the intricate Monogram vanity case created for the American film star Sharon Stone, Louis Vuitton has devised countless elegant and ingenious trunks.

The Watch Trunk is part of the made to order category where you can order and customise the trunk to your requirements with different leathers, colours and trimmings. Custom-Made items are true one-offs, that gradually take shape through detailed sketches and elaborate prototypes.  All such orders are executed in Asnières, which completes around 450 items a year.  Each piece is made from beginning to end by a single expert craftsman, a process that can take many months.

Traditionally, the Asnières workshop, which from 1859 until 1977 was the company’s sole production facility, has made all Special Orders.  The department is personally overseen by Patrick-Louis Vuitton, representing the fifth generation of the founding family, who is himself a trained and talented craftsman.

The three cases at the top of the cabinet are fitted with automatic winders, which will keep your automagtic watches working, even when protected in the trunk.

WATCHES IN TRUNK,

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP CENTRE:

Louis Vuitton Escale Time Zone 39

The Escale collection has a unique and colourful identity inspired by the universe of trunk customisation. A creative statement in the watchmaking world featuring a 24-time-zone movement developed in-house at La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton.

Louis Vuitton Voyager GMT 41.5

Around the world in 24 hours. The Voyager collection is the ultimate contemporary tool for the globetrotter who travels from city to city, time zone to time zone. This contemporary travel watch features a GMT function.

Louis Vuitton Tambour Regatta Navy 44

The Tambour watch has a unique and recognisable shape that pays tribute to the first portable timepiece in the history of watchmaking. With its essential regatta functions, sporty rubber strap and deep blue dial with a black ‘V’ motif, the Tambour Regatta Navy represents a combination of sport and style.

Louis Vuitton LV Fifty Five with diamonds 36

The LV Fifty Five collection is inspired by the lock of the legendary Louis Vuitton aluminum trunk. Adorned with diamonds and mother-of-pearl, this feminine model is fitted with a white cashmere calf strap, one of the Maison own leathers.

Louis Vuitton LV Fifty Five 36

The LV Fifty Five collection is inspired by the lock of the legendary Louis Vuitton aluminum trunk. This medium model, resolutely unisex, is fitted with a steel bracelet, which is a subtle reference to the curve of the handles of the brand’s historic trunks.

Hypnose de Cartier

Medium Model, Pink Gold, Paved Bezel, Quartz Movement

Dress, Rami Al Ali Couture

Ballon Bleu de Cartier

36mm, White Gold on Pink Leather Strap, Paved Bezel, Automatic Movement

Dress, Rami Al Ali Couture

Cle de Cartier

35mm, Pink Gold on Purple Leather Strap, Paved Bezel and Indexes, Automatic 1847 MC Movement

Dress, Kristina Fidelskaya

Ballon Bleu de Cartier

36mm, Pink Gold on Pink Gold Bracelet, Paved Bezel, Automatic Movement

Dress, Rami Al Ali Couture

Hypnose de Cartier 

Medium Model, White Gold, Paved Bezel, Quartz Movement

Dress, Kristina Fidelskaya

Hypnose de Cartier

Medium Model, Pink Gold, Paved Dial and Bezel, Black Lacquer, Quartz Movement

Dress, Rami Al Ali Couture

Ballon Bleu de Cartier

36mm, Pink Gold & Steel on Pink Gold & Steel Bracelet, Paved Bezel and Indexes, Automatic Movement

Dress, Rami Al Ali Couture

Cle de Cartier 

40mm, Pink Gold on Red Leather Strap, Paved Case and Dial, Automatic 1847 MC Movement

Dress, Kristina Fidelskaya

Fashion Director : Eliza Scarborough

Photographer : Vivienne Balla

Hair and Make-up : Marisol Steward

Model : Dominika at MMG

Location : Waldorf Astoria, The Palm

The Essence of Chic

Bright, deep and modern. The wrap around strap and its calfskin with contemporary finishing give this polished steel watch, partially set with diamonds, a contrast of chic and glamour.

Playful Energy

Bold, spicy orange brings optimism and a bright mood to this glamorous model with an oval case entirely set with diamonds. It boldly combines leather in an ultra-modern colour with contemporary finishes.

A Jewellery Watch

Grace and audacity, interpreted by a unique double wrap-around metal bracelet. This model plays with the design codes of the small Baume & Mercier wristwatches created in the 1920s.

Photographer : Adam Browning-Hill

Fashion Director : Eliza Scarborough

Hair and Make-up : Annesofie Begtrup

Model : Anja at Wilhelmina

Location : Le Tresor, Dubai

Marrying cutting-edge watchmaking with elegant style, this Cartier line for men harnesses the combined power of strong temperament, aesthetics and precision.

Cartier Santos 100, Carbon ADLC on Calfskin Strap, Large Model, 1847 Mc Manufacture Automatic Movement

• Leather jacket, sweater and trousers, Pal Zileri

Calibre De Cartier Diver, Carbon ADLC on Rubber Strap, 42mm, 1904-Ps Mc Manufacture Automatic Movement 

• Zip up sweater, Burberry

Drive De Cartier, Steel on Leather Strap, 40x41mm, Black Dial, 1904-Ps Mc Manufacture Automatic Movement

Drive De Cartier, Pink Gold on Leather Strap, 40x41mm, White Dial, 1904-Ps Mc Manufacture Automatic Movement

Drive De Cartier, Steel on Leather Strap, 40x41mm, White Dial, 1904-Ps Mc Manufacture Automatic Movement

• Saxophone, Sadek Music

Drive De Cartier, Steel on Leather Strap, 40x41mm, Black Dial, 1904-Ps Mc Manufacture Automatic Movement   

• Suit jacket, Burberry

• Sweater, Pal Zileri

Drive De Cartier, Pink Gold on Leather Strap, 40x41mm, White Dial, 1904-Ps Mc Manufacture Automatic Movement

• Sweater, Pal Zileri

Ballon Bleu De Cartier, Carbon ADLC on Calfskin Strap, 42mm, 1847 Mc Manufacture Automatic Movement 

• Blazer and shirt, Pal Zileri

Ballon Bleu De Cartier, Carbon ADLC on Calfskin Strap, 42mm, 1847 Mc Manufacture Automatic Movement

Cartier Santos 100, Carbon ADLC on Calfskin Strap, Large Model, 1847 Mc Manufacture Automatic Movement

Calibre De Cartier Diver, Carbon ADLC on Rubber Strap, 42mm, 1904-Ps Mc Manufacture Automatic Movement

• Ukulele, Sadek Music

Calibre De Cartier Diver Blue, Steel on Calfskin And Rubber Strap, 42mm, 1904-Ps Mc Manufacture Automatic Movement

• Blazer and sweater, Pal Zileri

Fashion Director : Eliza Scarborough

Photographer : Adam Balcerek

Grooming : Marisol Steward

Model : Carlos at Wilhelmina

Location : Lock, Stock and Barrel

Sally Soheili’s passion for customisation started when she was at school in England. Although it was not until she kitted out her staff at SoH Art + Beauty in Converse trainers, which they painted themselves, that demand grew for her customised products. Seeing beauty as a form of art is at the heart of SoH, a vision which Sally created after seeing a gap in the market for something hip and cool. It is more than a salon, and somewhere that art can meet beauty, and women can come and build a community.

Describing herself as a ‘street style girl with an addiction to sneakers,’ Sally also confesses to being ‘a sucker for Chanel.’ Especially because after 10 years of living in Dubai, she has learnt the glamour side of fashion. When we meet the stylish entrepreneur, she is wearing her favourite skinny jeans, a classic top with a twist from local designer Bintthani, and a timeless Rolex watch, an outfit which represents her wardrobe, which she describes as both eclectic and simple at the same time.

This Louis Vuitton clutch is my go to bag when I have an event or evening gathering. It’s one of my favourites, as it dresses up my simple wardrobe staples, and will instantly elevate any look. My brother, who lives in England, is a very good shopper and found it for me, because as it is limited edition python it was difficult to track down.

Painted on the back of this classic leather jacket is one of Joan Miro’s most famous paintings. The Spanish painter, sculptor, and ceramicist is one of my favourite artists. I have always been into art and some of the most established artists inspire both the customised products and the nail art offered in the salon. I feel that it is a great way of educating young girls who come here, about art through beauty.

When it comes to my beauty routine there are a few products that I religiously use. My mother is a doctor and has been using organic products since when I could walk, so I prefer that the products I use are natural, as that is how I was brought up. BareMinerals are the most natural you can find on the market, so I am a huge fan of their range. I also love essential oils, which can either be used in a room diffuser, or mixed up to make facial masks. My hero products are the Kiehls midnight recovery concentrate, which really gives your skin a radiant look in the morning, and the Shiseido Ibuki which will instantly revitalise tired skin.

I love the Jo Malone brand, especially entrepreneur Jo’s story, and have many bottles of cologne dotted around my house. I prefer the stronger Oud fragrances for evening, and for day I choose lighter scents from the collection.

My home and the salon are decorated with these limited edition Be@rbrick’s, in all shapes and sizes. I have always been a big fan of Japanese culture and have been visiting Japan since when I was young. These bears are from a Japanese toy company called MediCom, which has been around for about 10 years and I have been collecting them from the start. They come in series of 24 toys with blind packaging, so I don’t know how many boxes I have bought over the years to collect all of the limited edition designs.

I purchased this Rebecca Minkoff backpack on a visit to the States. I love her designs and I also love that she does a lot of Corporate Social Responsibility work that gives back to women. I like bags that give character to outfits as I dress very simply, and this is one of those cool bags that has a hippy feel with its tassels and embellishment.

I don’t tend to wear many heels, however when I do I choose simple heeled pumps, which I have in a range of colours. My go to styles are the Christian Louboutin So Kate and the Prada Simple Pump, as they are comfortable to walk in and come in plenty of materials and shades. Wrapped around my ankle are some old anklets which I collected during visits to Thailand, Sri Lanka and India. I am part of a lot of charities with orphanages, and the children from them made these for me.

As someone who grew up in raining England I am used to wearing chunky Dr Martens and Timberlands. After moving to Dubai I have become accustomed to the climate out here, but whenever I have the opportunity to wear them, either when the weather cools or if I am travelling, I will.

These Chopard and Cartier watches are my go to watch styles for everyday as they aren’t too embellished and bling. I choose classic pieces for during the day as they are easy to wear and match with everything.

Handmade by a family jeweller, the ring is personalised with my initials and was given to me by my family. When it comes to jewellery I don’t tend to wear much, but these Dior earrings and ring go with my simple style and the Bulgari necklace, which is one of my favourite pieces and was given to me by my father, is a piece that I regularly wear.

I love my Topshop jeans, they are durable, comfortable and flattering, and with the price tag it means I can have as many pairs I want. This is ideal as I spend a lot of time either painting or in the salon, so clothes tend to get damaged from the paint and hair dye.

As we hit the milestone of a decade in fashion, we look to the fashion brands who have also recently hit this landmark birthday. The 10-year survival rate is a tough threshold to cross in fashion, but just getting there isn’t enough, as it is by no means a guarantee that the business will last another 10 years. 10 years in business is mostly reflective of the stamina and strategic wiles of the designer, although many would argue that it is the mark where the real work begins. No longer can they be considered as fledgling and emerging, instead it is the time to strategize about how to sustain growth and decide whether to compete with the established industry heavyweights, such as Chanel, Dior, and Prada.

Nicholas Kirkwood, who recently celebrated his anniversary explains, ‘the first 10 years is just the start,’ adding that the first and second decades are two very different stages for a brand. ‘The beginning is about defining your voice, and the next 10 years, as you become more established, is about expanding and perhaps even exploring other categories.’

A decade after they launched, Christopher Kane, 3.1 Phillip Lim, Erdem, Alexander Wang, Roksanda, Nicholas Kirkwood and more recently Rodarte have become mainstay fixtures in the fashion industry, and we look at the momentous moments during their fashion journey so far.

Erdem

Turkish-Canadian designer Erdem Moralioglu, is one of London’s most respected designers, earning commercial success and critical accolades. The designer has grown from zero to hero in the space of a decade, with a year-on-year growth pattern and no external investment. Indeed, he was the last of his 10th anniversary peers to open a store, which is located just off Mount Street in London’s Mayfair, however the marble floored boutique is just the start in the expansion to leather bags, a perfume and own brand footwear.

Alexander Wang

Wang, who sits atop a highly lucrative indie brand, which expanded rapidly, and has more than 25 stores worldwide, celebrated the milestone by reissuing his 10 most popular pieces of all time as chosen by fans via social media using the hashtag #WANG10. Now, after a 3-year tenure at Balenciaga, Wang is concentrating on taking his casual, yet edgy, eponymous brand to the next level.

Roksanda Ilincic

Roksanda marked the anniversary with a capsule collection of dresses that riffs on her archive designs, and is also branching out into more categories and lines. Her distinctive mix of voluminous, couture-like shapes, and bold colour combinations have earnt her a host of A-List devotees, including the political wife. A committed fan, Samantha Cameron emerged from Downing Street on her husband’s last day in a navy dress with colourful geometric shapes, and Michelle Obama has also worn her designs. More unexpectedly, Melania Trump chose a dress she bought herself from Net-a-Porter, for her speech at the Republican convention.

3.1 Phillip Lim

Co-founders Phillip Lim and Wen Zhou fêtes their 10th anniversary with a retrospective look at the last decade, one that saw the impressive brand with an eye for elevated street-wear grow exponentially. The documentary, channels their favourite moments from their debut show to the 10-year sculptural installation made by revered artist and environmentalist Maya Lin.

Nicholas Kirkwood

Kirkwood, whose company is now majority-owned by LVMH, waved goodbye amicably to his cofounder and longtime chief executive officer Christopher Suarez, as the brand turned 10. The duo grew the brand considerably over the past decade, from a Harrods account in its second season to flagship boutiques in New York, Las Vegas and London, culminating in an arcade and Pac-Man inspired anniversary collection. The shoe designer has since expressed his desire to launch a handbag range, but a spokesperson for the label confirmed that jewellery will be next.

Rodarte

Kate Mulleavy and her younger sister, Laura, first carried 16 handmade dresses from their home in Pasadena, California, to New York in 2006, and from there grew into an outlying and exquisite feature on the New York show landscape. They may not have expanded in the way others have done, however, because they are independent, they can go at their own pace. Ignoring the pressures to do pre-collections, they have instead immersed themselves in books, installations, an opera with Frank Gehry, and, most significantly, writing and directing a movie.

Christopher Kane

A fresh graduate from Central Saint Martins almost 10 years ago, Christopher Kane started his namesake label in a studio bedroom in east London. Today, Kane, alongside his sister Tammy, a driving force behind the label, has earned a well-deserved seat in fashion’s major league. Backed by industry conglomerate Kering, Kane’s label is stocked by prestigious retailers across the globe, and last year his first standalone boutique opened in the heart of London, neighbouring the stores of Lanvin and Balenciaga.

By Eliza Scarborough

Once a fashion no no, matching accessories will now up your style kudos.

Bally

Christian Louboutin

Fendi

Bally

Gucci

Jimmy Choo