Pre-season catwalks are the most varied of most collections, you’re as likely to see a sweet summery dress as you are a shearling topper. This retail orientated offering ranges for the longest period, spanning more or less the whole year long, meaning that trends can be tough to trace.

However, we have compiled the best of the collections, giving you a concise guide of what to pick from the extensive collections crammed with colour, textures and print.

by Eliza Scarborough

Step into a beautiful and historical world of botanicals at the Nuxe spa

Marrakesh is one of those places which beautifully combines luxury ascetics, raw natural simplicities, and artistic and cultural vibes. It is a city that attracts a medley of people from all walks of life: travellers, bohemians, wanderlust lovers and artisans. Behind rustic doors there are hidden gems in souk markets and the dusky, pink-walled Medina (the ‘old city’) boasts a greater density of chic boutique lodgings. You’ll find art galleries, shops selling a plethora of rich tapestries, homeware, interior furnishings, clothing, gold and silver jewellery. Amongst the trendy, cultural and historic discoveries, there are cool-chic restaurants, stylish bars and luxury hotels.

For those wanting to unwind, a breathtaking retreat in Marrakesh worth visiting is the Nuxe spa at Villa des Orangers. It’s a charming, elegant and absolutely dreamy boutique hotel and spa just three hours from Paris. The hotel was originally built in the 1930s as a traditional residence for a prominent family from Marrakech, who lived there until 1998. Since, Pascal and Véronique Beherec discovered the building and fell under its spell, understandably. Already owners of two hotels in Paris, they decided to convert it into a huge and luxurious riad. And they have done well for it. When you enter you are greeted by a luscious courtyard garden with wooden handcrafted arches, beautiful, colourful intricate mosaic tiled ceilings and floors, gushing water fountains and pretty citrus orange trees.

The hotel is a member of the Relais and Châteaux hotel chain, located at the foot of the Koutoubia mosque, halfway between the Royal Palace and the Jemaâ El Fna square. It has 27 bedrooms and suites, a private riad is located next to a large garden. There’s a stunning swimming pool and three patios with greenery, each accessed through galleries with exquisite carved archways. Suites have private decking areas that look out over the Medina on the first floor. The rooftops feature gardens, solariums and a swimming pool. All of which allow you to savour the dazzling view of the Moroccan city and the Atlas Mountain.

The spa is enchanting; walking into the Nuxe spa at Villa des Orangers is like immersing yourself in enveloping exotic fragrances of rose petals and orange blossom. You are instantly hit by the delicious enticing concoction of floral and citrus aromas. It’s a dream setting with five massage rooms and a majestic traditional hammam.  And if there is a must-try treatment it’s undoubtedly experiencing a hammam treatment. The Oriental Escape (one hour is AED 550 per person or AED 1000 for two) begins with 30 minutes in the hammam where you are enveloped in humid heat so your body unwinds. Skin prepares to receive all the purifying benefits of the traditional exfoliation using black soap and a kessa glove. Following this, there’s a 30 minute jet lag Nuxe massage with Huile Prodigieuse, a signature brand product and luxurious multi-purpose oil. This expert massage targets areas of tension and stress. The movements are linked in a flowing sequence to boost circulation and release tension in the body. It’s ideal to soothe fatigue and replenish energy levels, particularly after a long journey or general tension and stress from a busy lifestyle.

Inspired by oriental traditions, most of the spa treatments feature the iconic Huile Prodigieuse, infusing its benefits of naturalness, effectiveness and sensuality in the “Jet Lag”, “Kashmir” and “Relaxing” Nuxe body massages. Each treatment such as Nuxellence Jeunesse, Nirvanesque and Rêve de Miel, to name a few, are bespoke to reflect your mood. So you receive only the best tailor-made massages for body, mind and soul.

The history of the products all began with CEO and Founder Aliza Jabès. She graduated from Sciences Politiques University in Paris and completing an MBA in Marketing and Finance at New York University. Jabès was inspired by her passionate belief in the power of plants. She was convinced from a very early age by her father (a pharmacy researcher) that the plant world is the source of significant therapeutic discoveries. As a result, Jabès decided to create a brand expert in natural cosmetology. She said: “My fascination with the plant world is the key inspiration behind Nuxe: revealing the Prodigious nature of plants on the skin. Nuxe philosophy is the excellence of nature combined with glamour.”

In 1991 the young entrepreneur created Huile Prodigieuse, Nuxe’s first product. It was the first multi-purpose product designed to take care of all of our beauty needs: this oil nourishes, repairs and softens the face, body and hair in a single step. This natural (97.8 per cent) dry oil has an inimitable fragrance, combining sensual notes of coconut, vanilla and musk to create a lingering sunny scent; no wonder so many woman love it and it is the number one oil and body care in pharmacy’s in France. Today in France, Nuxe products are the number one selling brand for fragrance and anti-ageing products. It’s a major International brand expert in natural origin cosmetology. The luxurious, plant-based products can be bought at the Nuxe spa in the Villa des Orangers.

By Hershey Pascual

Sit back and relax with our edit of the best couple’s spas in Dubai, whether you are sharing this special time with your other half or just having a chill out with friends.

Anantara, The Palm

Situated on the Palm, this Thai themed luxury resort is the perfect setting for a spa experience. On arrival you are taken to the private couple’s suite, in a beautiful small villa, overlooking the private lagoon. The spacious suite features three different sections and boasts a huge vaulted ceiling, typical of a traditional Thai villa. The treatment starts off with an exfoliating milk bath for your feet set right next to the lagoon views. The next chapter of your treatment takes place on your massage bed for a relaxing aromatherapy full body massage. After your massage, guests are encouraged to move to the sensory bed area which consists of an LED bed that is not only heated but also produces mini vibrations and rainforest sounds for the ultimate escapism. The couples’ spa suite at the Anantara is not only a complete sensory experience but it is also the perfect setting for pure escapism from the bustling city of Dubai.

Four Seasons, DIFC

This ultra-cool spa is set in the brand new Four Seasons hotel, situated in the DIFC area. The overall interior design of the hotel and the spa really hits the mark with a slick and minimalist style that oozes luxury and calm. Couple’s have their own individual changing room suites with the highest quality finish and facilities. They are then taken to the couple’s treatment suite where they can choose from a variety of oils to suit their mood and experience. African elements are incorporated into the treatment with wooden instruments used to aid the massage as well as techniques used to ease muscular tension. After the full body massage there is the opportunity to relax in the suite with a choice from a selection of teas and a delicious fruit platter. There is also an option to enjoy the spectacularly unique roof top terrace swimming pool which is a reason to visit the hotel in itself.

The Rixos, The Palm

Situated at the end of the crescent, on the Palm, the Rixos spa is the perfect place to get away from it all and for those seeking both a romantic and decadent experience. Couple’s are treated in a magnificent suite featuring a mini gazebo and a private bathroom and jacuzzi.

The treatment begins with a relaxing foot scrub, followed by a full body massage that uses a combination of classical and Thai techniques. The massage centres on completely relaxing the body by encouraging couples to make use of the jacuzzi straight after the treatment to enhance their experience. Refreshments and tea are also on offer to finish off the sensory journey.

Amara Spa, Park Hyatt

Stepping into the luxe Amara Spa is an experience in itself. Set amid the calm of the private courtyards, couple’s are led to a lush private garden to commence the treatment with a delicate rose petal hand and foot ritual. Following this there is a 30-minute coffee and cardamom scrub designed to reduce the appearance of cellulite before you’re both wrapped up tightly in a sandalwood and rosewater body wrap. Next up is a massage which uses both Balinese and Hawaiian techniques, together with a satisfying Thai stretch, before finishing with a phyto-aromatic facial. When the three hour experience has finished couple’s are left to relax and enjoy the beautiful gardens on the private terrace.

Armani Spa, Burj Khalifa

The Armani spa is another spa that offers pure escapism in a luxurious and chic setting. Set in the Burj Khalifa at the Armani Hotel, one would expect nothing less than elegance and luxury. Couples are greeted with a delicious watermelon refreshment and warm towel, before being given a tour of the facilities. Guests are then invited to enjoy the relaxation room in the comfort or their Armani robes.

The relaxation room consists of comfortable loungers, magazines and a variety of refreshments and teas. Couple’s are then taken through the minimalist corridors to the couple’s suite which resembles something similar to what you would find in a luxe ski lodge in the mountains. The Armani spa centres upon dark, sumptuous lighting to heighten the senses and to allow one to completely shut off. After a relaxing full body massage, couples can then enjoy the outdoor swimming pool area with amazing views of the Burj Khalifa tower directly above them.

Talise Ottoman Spa, Jumeirah Zabeel Saray

For those looking for an extravagant and romantic couple’s spa experience, look no further than one of Dubai’s top spas, the Talise Ottoman Spa at Jumeirah Zabeel Saray. Couple’s are escorted to their own VIP suite on their own floor which features a huge private jacuzzi pool as well as a private hammam. The hammam experience consists of lying on a luxuriously heated marble slab and being bathed in hot water.

The body is then thoroughly scrubbed and bathed again to remove all excess skin, to promote circulation. Couples are then cocooned in a blanket of foam by a soft pillow, brushed over the body. This is then followed by more bathing and then a full body massage with a rose infused mask. After further bathing, couple’s are then taken to a private relaxation area and treated to refreshments where they can either enjoy the jacuzzi bath together or venture down to the extensive, public facilities downstairs. This couples hammam experience is the ultimate in opulence and indulgence and perfect for a special occasion.

The Address, Dubai Marina

Step into the spa and you immediately have a feeling of tranquillity, with peaceful views of the marina from your treatment room. The experience begins with a hot stone massage, as a combination of warm aromatherapy oils, heated Balinese stones and strong massage techniques ease away any stress and tension. The massage balances key energy points, with a relaxing floral foot ritual to begin and then afterwards a radiance facial brightens your complexion. To complete the rejuvenating experience, continue the pampering in the spa facilities together while enjoying some chocolate covered strawberries.

By Amy Louise

Constance Halaveli

At Constance Halaveli in the Maldives, the sea is as blue as the sky and the sand is as white as the marshmallow-shaped clouds. The only visual interruptions are the coconut-brown villas. Halaveli is an exquisite island retreat located in the North Ari Atoll, about a 20-minute seaplane journey from Male. The hotel exudes an idyllic and tranquil atmosphere and is surrounded by a gorgeous lagoon. The very private beach and over-water villas blend Maldivian design with a contemporary flourish.

Accommodation

Constance Halaveli is small compared to many of the island resorts in the Maldives, with just 28 beach villas, but it triples in size with the 57 water villas laddered along an extensive 856m jetty from the beach, one of the longest jetties in the Maldives, elegantly standing over a remarkably tempting turquoise lagoon. The result is a tranquil stilted village of peaceful, spacious and very private dwellings. The water villas all offer outstanding privacy and comfort. The villas are creatively designed with high ceilings that represent the shape of Dhonis, the local Maldivian boat.

There is ample space with a large bedroom, a bathroom with a freestanding bathtub and separate rainforest shower. Outside, there is a private sundeck that leads onto an infinity plunge pool dropping off into the azure waters of the Indian Ocean. On the island are the beach villas, which are all shielded by well-grown tropical plants and trees, offering immense privacy. To the front, the gardens offer a quiet retreat for morning breakfast or evening in villa dining next to an inviting plunge pool. To the rear, the villas have large open-air bathrooms with sunken bathtubs and rainforest showers.

Food and Drink

The island has three restaurants, ‘Jahaz’, the main restaurant serving international cuisine, whose ceiling is strung with rainbow-coloured lanterns, and ‘Meeru’, the beach grill which serves a wide selection of seafood in an al fresco setting. For a more romantic choice there is ‘Jing’, which is located half-way down the overwater jetty, and serves adventurous fusion food in a stunning turquoise and dark-wood dining room. For drinks you have a couple of options, there are two open-air pavilions by the pool that make up the ‘Jahaz’ bar, or for spectacular sundowner views then go for the bar on the jetty next to ‘Jing’.

What to do

The island has an exceptional spa, offering an extensive range of treatments. You will be slathered in fragrant Ila and Valmont products in the over water treatment rooms for the ultimate in blissful relaxation. Otherwise take advantage of being in one of the best atolls for diving in the Maldives by visiting the dive centre. You can sign up for a diving course, there are plenty of specialty options on offer, simply go snorkelling with whalesharks, or take a dolphin cruise on a dhoni.

Constance Moofushi

At the tip of the South Ari Atoll, rich with underwater creatures, and a 45-minute seaplane from Malé, is Constance Moofushi. This barefoot resort is situated on a manageable-sized island, but there is plenty of space for escaping other guests on beaches that are pristine yet still feel as though they have been left to nature. The marine life is superb, out in the water villas you will have black baby reef sharks lapping at the stilts of the jetty.

Accommodation

Villas are simple, well-made thatched wooden bungalows. Inside they have a carefree spirit, with natural materials, giant travel chests for wardrobes and beachcomber-inspired fittings, in forms that resemble waves or shells. A Mac mini hidden inside a mother-of-pearl desk brings things up-to-date. The large decking that stretches out on stilts over the sea has steps down into the shallow lagoon below for snorkelling. Beach villas keep your feet on the super soft white sand, with front terraces that lead onto the sand, made private by palms and bushes.

Food and Drink

British head-chef Stephen produces a variety of dishes, grills and confectionary at the main buffet style restaurant ‘Mantra’. Indulge in some of the finest cuisine from around the world with your feet in the sand, overlooking the clear blue water of the ocean. Or for a more casual meal then ‘Alizee’ is located a few meters from the sea on white sandy beaches. The beach grill features a menu of grilled fish & meat according to the selection of the day, cooked to order on the show charcoal grill. Imaginative smoothie combinations are served during the day and romantic sundowner cocktails in the evening at ‘Totem’, a driftwood-style bar, situated right on the beach behind the pool and under a heavy canopy of indigenous trees.

Relaxation

Constance Moofushi’s inviting pool is curved to mirror the shape of the beach, resulting in spectacular views from all sunbeds. Tucked away close to the spa, this peaceful spot has sun loungers scattered on the surrounding wooden deck and beach below. Otherwise in the spa next door, lie back and enjoy a Balinese massage or natural wrap, while overlooking the peaceful ocean waters.

The concept of Le Clarence is to bring a little piece of Bordeaux to Paris and, walking through the heavy carved wooden doors with La Cave du Château wine boutique on the right, and the sweeping elegant staircase to the left, this is indeed the impression.

The Hôtel Dillon, an elegant 19th century mansion at 31 Avenue Franklin D. Roosevelt, has been entirely restored and decorated by the finest craftsmen, and is now the Paris home of Domaine Clarence Dillon, a family company that owns three of Bordeaux’s finest vineyards, Haut-Brion, La Mission Haut-Brion and Quintus as well as Bordeaux Fine Wine Merchant, Clarence Dillon Wines and its super premium brand, Clarendelle. To celebrate its 80th anniversary, the family company, whose history has always been intimately bound up with fine wine and dining, set out to capture the philosophy, worldview and unique blend of tradition and innovation, exemplified by Domaine Clarence Dillon, with the creation of an exceptional restaurant, ‘Le Clarence’.

Set over the three floors and a basement, is a collection of beautifully finished and eclectically decorated rooms. On the first floor is the restaurant which is divided into three traditional but very differently decorated rooms, and named in homage to Lestonnac, Pontac and Talleyrand, all former owners of the Château Haut-Brion. Outside the dining room and the private salon, are two elegant handcrafted wooden consoles, containing eight bottles of Haut-Brion’s best red and white vintages. Designed using rare woods by Prince Robert and London-based furniture maker David Linley to commemorate the 75th anniversary of Clarence Dillon’s purchase of the winery, secret drawers contain silverware by Buccellati, the Italian jeweller.

The restaurant is friendly and refined, reflecting the very best French produce, led with panache and passion by a young and talented team. In the kitchen, Michelin starred Chef Christophe Pelé will make it his mission to revisit the great classics of French fine dining. Meanwhile in the restaurant, Antoine Pétrus, a winner of the prestigious ‘Meilleur Ouvrier de France’ award, will oversee proceedings in his capacity as restaurant director and Chef Sommelier.

At the top of the grand staircase on the second floor is a private lounge, a grand salon with magnificent French windows overlooking the Grand Palais. Here there’s a beautiful fireplace, an antique backgammon table, striking artwork and a wonderful mix of furniture. Located up on the third floor are three private rooms and below the stairs in the basement is an atmospheric stone wine cellar, where Damien de Gironde, director of La Cave du Château, will give wine tastings and advise on buying.

Weaving together a harmonious balance between textures, design, functionality and fine craftsmanship, Bottega Veneta launched its new home collection at the Salone del Mobile Furniture Fair in Milan. Created by Tomas Maier, creative director of Bottega Veneta, the new home collection is a reflection of the house’s affinity for a timeless aesthetic, fused with impeccable craftsmanship.

Each piece comes together to complement the other through form and colour, from the clean lines of the Rudi seating elements to the utterly modern arch tables in a strong and polished combination of bronze and matt oak. In a further celebration of Bottega Veneta’s profound affinity and identification with impeccable craftsmanship, the sofas and tables are joined by a chest of drawers entirely sheathed in suede or leather with a top in marble or wood and discreet yet outstanding bronze handles which feature the iconic intrecciato pattern on the sides. A series of sterling silver collectible boxes, each bearing the name of a planet and embellished with semi-precious stones, along with a hand painted porcelain dining service add the finishing touches to the atmosphere. A collaboration between Bottega Veneta and Osanna Visconti di Modrone, the Italian designer, produced distinctive and singularly individualistic designs, a set of bronze tables with a surface that pays tribute to the house’s signature intrecciato motif enrich the collection. Each piece of furniture is immaculately aligned, and the entirety of Maier’s conjured show space feels akin to what a night in a museum would feel like. Hugged by coffered ceilings and stone walls, you feel cosy and right at home, but at the same time antiquated. In awe of the historic beauty that surrounds you, marble busts from the 1st century BC, Roman columns and an elegant backdrop of the 18th century Palazzo Gallarati Scotti.

This is high-shine hotel with polished marble floors, a glass leaf chandelier that floats in the reception area, modelled off the trees lining Avenue Kléber, high-end boutiques and vast hallways. The sculpted stone facade and neo-classical panelling, mosaics, murals and gilding of ground-floor reception rooms have been meticulously restored by skilled craftsmen, new spaces opened up, roof terraces created, and three levels of basement excavated for staff quarters, spa, indoor pool and car park. White uniformed bellboys in sailor hats add a faintly colonial air. The Peninsula exalts its 19th-century heritage, where George Gershwin penned parts of An American in Paris in 1928, but like other French landmarks, the Louvre, and the Palace of Versailles, it also embraces contemporary art and design. The hotel’s collection of art pieces includes a sculpture by Spanish artist Xavier Corberó.

Location

Originally opened as the Majestic hotel in 1908, briefly the seat of Unesco and later an international congress centre, the Peninsula Paris occupies an entire block near the Arc de Triomphe, and is still doing its best to persuade you it is really Versailles. The Champs-Elysées is around the corner and the avenue Montaigne couture stores are a breeze in the Peninsula’s own 1934 vintage Rolls Royce or customised Mini Clubman.

Rooms

The Peninsula Paris offers 200 luxurious rooms which are among the largest in Paris, including 34 suites, with five featuring their own private rooftop gardens with spectacular views over the city. Soft grey and cream hues are accented with high-gloss lacquered architectural features and designed to perfection with distinct Parisian influences. And should you worry that it’s all just period polish, the rooms conceal a feast of 21st-century technology, with endless cabling and a sophisticated domotic system. Tactile tablets and wall panels control lighting, heating, curtains, TV and anything else you might think of in a choice of 11 languages.

Food and Drink

With six bars and restaurants, under executive chef Jean-Edern Hurstel, discovered on France’s Top Chef TV competition after a career in the UAE, there’s plenty of choice. The 6th-floor panoramic French gastronomic restaurant L’Oiseau Bleu, named after an early French biplane, showcases the very best of French cuisine and a bespoke wine and cocktail selection, against a picturesque backdrop of Parisian rooftops and some of the city’s most unique views. While the Cantonese restaurant LiLi, with its Chinese opera decor of lacquer and carved wood, pays tribute to hotels’ Asian heritage, serving signature Cantonese cuisine, including highly celebrated dim sum.

Spa

The Peninsula Spa, which occupies 1,800 sq m, is the place to revive the body and mind. Guests can unwind in a 20 m indoor pool, together with relaxation areas offering six private treatment rooms and two VIP couples’ suites, heat experiences and the ultimate in spa treatments and products by ESPA and Biologique Recherche.

A historic hotel turned thoroughly modern luxury stay, the Corinthia Hotel London lives up to its unbeatably central location steps from the banks of the Thames. It has style in spades, world-class dining, an exceptional four-storey Espa Life spa and fantastic sightseeing views.

Location

Close to the River Thames and Charing Cross railway station, this was once the majestic 600-room Hôtel Métropole, which opened in 1885. Requisitioned by the Ministry of Defence for much of the last century, it is in walking distance of numerous attractions including, Trafalgar Square, St James’s Park, the South Bank, and the Houses of Parliament. Stay here and London really is on your doorstep.

The Lobby Lounge Corinthia Hotel London

Style & character

‘Corinthia Hotel London is an intricately restored grand hotel with a 21st century approach,’ says General Manager Thomas Fischer. Its modern elegance is defined by a blend of classic Victorian architecture with outstanding craftsmanship and contemporary art. Get ready for fabulous chandeliers, the soaring dome in the centre of the lobby lounge is adorned with the pioneering Full Moon chandelier created by Parisian designer Chafik Gasmi and produced by Baccarat, the prestigious French crystal manufacturer.

You will also find intriguing modern art, palatial public rooms, a Daniel Galvin hair salon, a mini-branch of Harrods, and there’s also a magnificent four-floor spa with ESPA treatments and dazzlingly indulgent relaxation areas.

The Northall table window detail, Corinthia Hotel London

Rooms

Housed within a Victorian building, Corinthia Hotel London features 294 rooms, including 40 suites and 7 penthouses, offering sweeping views across London’s most popular landmarks. They are warm and welcoming with restful beige and olive tones backed up with dreamy Hypnos beds, Loewe TVs and Italian marble bathrooms. They also offer ‘The Seven Penthouses of Corinthia London’, a spectacular collection of exclusive two-storey penthouse hotel suites, heralding a new era of luxury accommodation for the city. The opulent guest residences are built within the turrets of the building, each with its distinct style and unique hand-crafted bespoke finishes and furniture.

CHL Trafalgar Suite Lounge

Executive Room

CHL Writer’s Penthouse Double Height Lounge

Food & drink

There are two grand restaurants and a bar. Garry Hollihead, winner of Michelin stars at three different establishments, is at the helm of The Northall, which celebrates the best of British artisanal produce. The hotel also serves modern Italian cuisine at Massimo Restaurant & Bar. Bassoon, the musically inspired bar designed by the award-winning David Collins Studio, serves both molecular cocktails and colonial inspired drinks from its boutique spirits library.

The Garden Lounge, Corinthia Hotel London

Massimo Restaurant & Oyster Bar

Spa

Award-winning international spa company ESPA partnered with the hotel to launch its flagship ESPA Life spa.  Spanning 3300m2 and on four floors, this magnificent spa features 17 treatment rooms, a private spa suite, nail studio, indoor pool, vitality pool, amphitheatre sauna, ice fountain, marble heated lounges, private sleep pods, a state-of-the-art gym and Daniel Galvin hair salon.  Of course the treatments are ESPA’s best, de-stressing, muscle-releasing and uplifting, and there are various packages to choose from.

The Sauna ESPA life, Corinthia Hotel London

There is always something to learn from a man with experience, knowledge and love for his craft. Frederic Malle is no doubt one of these men. He’s the man behind the niche fragrance house Editions de Parfums, launched in 2000. Born in Paris in 1962 to a family in the perfume industry; his grandfather Serge Heftler founded Christian Dior Perfumes and his mother worked as an art director for the house, which enabled Frederic to have a head start in the exclusive world of fragrance. He was fortunate to be exposed to the inner workings of the industry at a tender age.

Initially choosing to read Art History in New York, Frederic made a change in 1986 and accepted a position at the famed perfume lab Roure Bertrand Dupont. At Roure, he learned about raw ingredi-ents, composition and all aspects of perfume creation from some of the finest professionals in the business. Later in 1996, he collaborated with another “nose,” Pierre Bourdon, on Mark Birley for Men. But in 2000, using his connections and experience in the industry, Frederic invited nine top perfumers to create their own original perfumes, with complete creative freedom and with no financial restrictions regarding ingredients or technologies. These fragrances were packaged in bottles that feature the name of the perfumer, which was a first in the industry, where the perfumer is traditionally behind the scenes and credit for the scent is given to the fashion house or celebrity on the bottle. The perfumes were marketed at a specially designed boutique. Later, the perfumes were also distributed in partnership with select department stores around the world.

This way of marketing was a roaring success, with the original nine perfumes now legendary in the industry, and with the perfumers behind each creation finally getting the recognition they deserved.

Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle has expanded to offers candles, innovative home scents, soap and body care products, all created with the same freedom as the first nine fragrances.

Tell us how it all began for you?

In 2000, when I started this there was only one brand left that was true luxury in Paris and that was Serge Lutens. He started this whole resistance in a way because all the brands were adapting their products for self-service environments. They were becoming super commercial and the whole focus was around image and not content.

I was obsessed by one thing, I wanted to explain to people that unlike other small brands (or some larger brands) traditional fine fragrances could be treated as a contemporary art by something that was modern.

If you look at these small brands that were niche brands from the ‘80s they were barely surviving. They all had packaging that looked nineteenth century. It was as if they were saying great fra-grances were something from the past and the new stuff were rubbish. My idea was to put perfum-ers forward as something more interesting and promote them as the real artists.

When I designed the packaging, I wanted it to be simple and minimalistic. The first impression of the fragrance is important. It needed to say it’s a modern perfume that can live in a modern environment. Each of the fragrances that we did were a re-edition of something that had existed before, such as a floral fragrance like a tuberous that was completely revisited, or something that was completely new. When you set creative artists free, give them all the raw materials they need and the time to work their magic then they come up with something new.

How did you advertise your products?

When we started, my point was not to advertise. My point was to put all the money in the content that was inside the bottle. Instead of spending billions on renting a store and buying advertising pages, we relied on the quality of the product to sell it. I felt if we do something better than the rest of the market people will understand and spread this news by word of mouth.

Are synthetic materials important in fragrance?

We use natural and synthetic materials. If you use fragrance that is just natural you will create something terrible. There is a huge misunderstanding when it comes to synthetic material. If you just use natural products you will sell rubbish. Fragrance is a technological art made with ingredients that are more or less precise. We are probably the brand that looks at the biggest amount of naturals in the industry. But if you only use natural materials there will be no shape to your perfume.

Perfume has been an art since the beginning of time. In European history, people like Marie Antoi-nette used fragrances and recipes were in books. Anyone can find ingredients and make recipes with roses and violets. The truth is no one has done it. Some pretend but they are lying because it smells horrible and shapeless, it doesn’t infuse and it’s not precise. We use precise formulas espe-cially now we are in a digital world. Apart from one or two great structures that dates back to the seventeenth century, which is just made of citrus, there is nothing in our industry which dates before 1889. Perfume has been relying on chemicals since the end of the nineteenth century.

The idea of using just natural products are nice but nature can smell disgusting. Sometimes you walk into nature and find a disgusting smell. One thing chemistry can do is create smells that come from nowhere. It is like adding colour to your rainbow. Imagine you are a painter and you are given colour that doesn’t exist and it is coming from no where. Synthetics create more dimension to a fragrance.

Is there a demand for unique niche fragrances?

The industry was all about mass when we first began. They disappointed hundreds of people. People were pretentious with their fragrance and they were going to be bankrupt. Slowly but surely we came up with niche fragrances that were high quality and contemporary, but we were doing things differently. In the beginning, people were a bit annoyed and amused. They were calling us an epic anomaly.

After five years, they realised that the press kept on coming back and publishing worldwide positive news about us. Slowly, they thought there may be something to our approach and we gained pub-lic respect.

Hermès hired Jean-Claude Ellena; there’s Chanel Les Exclusifs and Estée Lauder with Tom Ford. Each of them had their different reactions. Many of these were very good. Now you have big brands that have initiated this and who have created a market. This became the solid market and every single store in the world started selling this. For perfume connoisseurs, there are mass per-fumers and luxury perfumers. Mass perfumery felt abandoned and their brands were dying so they felt they needed to do what the others were doing.

Last year, 960 fragrances came out. You have all these people making all kinds of fragrances but it is like a person buying a cushion and saying I am an interior designer. There is no substance or real knowledge behind that.

What was the first scent you wore and your first memory of fragrance?

My mother use to work with Christian Dior and she made Christian Dior Eau Fresh for my grandfa-ther. She watered it down and she called it Baby Dior and it was made for my brother and I. We were covered with it. The first thing I smelt was the original Miss Dior which was what they are sell-ing now.

By complete coincidence, my parents bought an apartment that use to belong to the Guerlain family. I was coincidently raised in the same bedroom as Jean-Paul Guerlain. I had a conversation with him, he knew that my parents bought his old apartment, and he asked me which one was my bedroom. We discovered my bedroom was his room. His mother, Mrs Guerlain, would wear a lot of perfume and the apartment smelled of Guerlain fragrances for years!

What is the fragrance that is most dear to you?

Musc Ravageur is extreme. I hardly did anything with it. I called Maurice Roucel, who had created great perfumes, and I told him to take his time to make it. He looked at me suspiciously and came back a few weeks later with a few sample bottles. He pulled out one from his pocket and said: “This is the best thing I have ever made and no one wants it because it’s too daring and difficult. It’s too sexy in a world that has to be so bleak and boring.” I smelt it and to me it was nothing shocking. I relabelled it and I gave it to my assistant who was quite good looking. She had the worse time getting back home because everyone was looking at her and she was getting so much attention. But one thing we didn’t like was the fragrance had no foreplay; it was just instant, like a car accelerating into full speed at once. It needed to slow down before it accelerated. So I asked Maurice Roucel to do something about that. He was furious so I tried to do something myself and I went back to him in 1999 with a modification. I loved it and he agreed with me; it was perfect. My assistant wore it again and she was totally irresistible to people. This is the fragrance that set us apart from the rest of the industry.

To what extent are you involved in the production of each fragrance? You have an impact of course, but how much are you involved?

I almost had no involvement with Musc Ravageur. There are perfumers like Dominque Ropion and Pierre Bourdon, who are probably the best perfumers of their generation, that I’m extremely close to. I am particularly close to Pierre Bourdon because his father use to work with my grandfather and Dominque Ropion and I worked in the same lab for 28 years.

Many years ago my father used old fashioned mouthwash because he loved the taste of it. I al-ways loved the red colour it was also the same colour from a product at the end of the nineteenth century that you would put in your hair. And as it happens, I bought a toothpaste that was made with the same products as the mouthwash my father used. I liked the taste because it was minty, it had cinnamon and benzoin. I thought this is interesting and we could create a men’s fragrance from this. Dominque Ropion loved the idea and for nine months we worked on it together and turned it into a real fragrance that is now Geranium Pour Monsieur.

When you smell Geranium Pour Monsieur at first it is fresh and minty. In fact, there is patchouli and sandalwood and you have benzoin too, which is very musky. One of the best products we make is the shower gel for this product. I love the shower gel; it is one of the products I use everyday. At the end what is left from the shower gel is the back; not the freshness but the back. In one of my thousands of conversations with Dominque I told him look at the back of that. Maybe we can take all the freshness out and make a big oriental fragrance just from the back. Move the back so we make it so big it becomes the front of the fragrance and ultimately becomes the whole thing. We worked on it for nine months.

We were excited with the results but there was a dimension missing. He came up with the idea of bringing lots of rose to it. It became Portrait of a Lady. It’s one of my favourites. You take the fresh-ness out and pump up the back notes. We don’t see it like the public do because we know how it is made. It is like seeing a painting. The artist understands the background and how it was made, but the viewer won’t fully know.

What do you think of the art of layering? Is it becoming a trend now?

It’s always been a trend in the Middle East. Layering is something that I am very uncomfortable with, except in the Middle East. Earlier you asked me about my contribution to fragrance we make. Either the idea comes from me, from someone else, or the perfumer – it is irrelevant. I work with them generally and sometimes I am not really involved. However, sometimes I am very involved, like with Dominique, and we work together every step of the way. We tune these things for up to a year. It takes hundreds of trials. It’s a huge effort by experts to create something that is perfect to us, like a work of art, for a moment of pleasure or a lifetime of pleasure for someone to own.

People don’t know how to layer in Europe, they have no idea. They want to layer because they want to be unique. It is like taking a Picasso and painting something horrible on it. To me, it is heartbreaking. Most of the time it is disgusting when it’s not done in the right way.

I think the Middle East is really the heart of the perfume world. Middle Eastern woman have a nose and they have knowledge about fragrance. I’m comfortable putting my fragrances in their hands. They’ve made little masterpieces in the Middle East because they know how to do it. I am not as opposed as I am compared to other regions where they would make a mess with it.

I was invited to Riyadh by a friend who was layering Portrait of a Lady with the best oud that she could get. She had access to a good one that smelt so good. The minute I smelt it I called Dominique from Riyadh and I told him we should take this idea and develop Portrait of the Lady further. And we did just that and it’s the fragrance we did for the Middle East. We went for the best source of oud from India and we took a things out of Portrait of the Lady put in a lot of oud. We rebuilt it and reinterpreted it.

What is coming out for the Middle East?

This product is available now. It’s called The Night. It’s smoky. It has an aromatic smell and there is depth. It has the biggest amount of natural oud in the industry. Its retail value is ¤1,040 for 100 ml.

What are your plans for the rest of 2016?

I am creating extraordinary products around Portrait of a Lady with new bases and new daring oils. I am working on a men’s fragrance in the Middle East and regardless of the fact that I’m part of the Estee Lauder family now, I launch when I am ready so we are still working on it.

What advise would you give people looking for a fragrance?

We are matchmakers, quite simply. I give freedom to these perfume artists, which allows me to push them to go as far as possible to take what we produce and learn to understand it, and give it to the right person to buy.

If you sell in an impersonal way then you will need a one size fits all-type. Then you have to do commercial fragrances. Important factors are the quality of fragrances made by the best artists, with the best raw materials and synthetic naturals, and my expertise if they need it. It is done in a very personal way.

We want people to talk about themselves. We want then to tell us who they are and what they want to do with the fragrance. Do you want to make an impression? Do you want to be discreet? Do you want to be seductive? If so, seductive in what way? There are so many ways to be seductive. For instance, if you want to seduce, do you wear a  fragrance to be a good office girl or boy? Or do you want to make an impression in the nightclub?

When you wear the fragrance try to picture yourself with it. And if you are comfortable with it then that is right for you. If you buy a fur coat and wear it to Saint-Tropez you will die of heat. If you buy a bikini and wear in St. Moritz you will also die of cold. Wear the right fragrance for the right season. Be yourself; be comfortable.

By Lara Mansour Sawaya

On October 20, 1984, in Jouy-en-Josas, near Versailles, Cartier inaugurated the Fondation Cartier pour l’art contemporain, a pioneering gesture in support of living art. Ten years later, in May 1994, the Fondation Cartier moved to Paris, into the architecture of glass and steel that had been created  by Jean Nouvel. In this unique setting, exhibitions, conferences and artistic productions came to life.

Thirty years later, the Fondation Cartier pour l’art contemporain remains true to the values on which it has based its action and which affirm its identity. It promotes discovery, by revealing young artists to the public or by unveiling the secret side of world-renowned artists.

As a reflection of our times, the Fondation Cartier embraces all creative fields and genres of contemporary art, ranging from design to photography, from painting to video art and from fashion to performance art. This testifies to the Fondation Cartier’s commitment and skill, to its blend of rigour and eclecticism which opens up contemporary art and renders it more accessible.

Recognised in the international artistic scene and hailed by the public, the Fondation Cartier distinguishes itself by its curiosity, originality and heterogeneity.

Great skin and wellness goes further than the products you use, and we have found the solution for that all round feeling of a strong, fit and healthy body.

BARE Fitness isn’t your usual gym. With slick wooden floors, trendy lightening and chic furniture that wouldn’t look out of place in a minimalist boutique hotel, it is more of a health and wellness destination. BARE is a nutrition focused transformative programme, famous for dramatic fat loss and extreme fitness performance. Sign up with them and they you don’t just get a fitness programme of high-intensity group training, but a diet plan and support too. After all as founder Dylan Eiffe says, ‘It’s 30 per cent exercise and 70 per cent food.’

Packing is simple when it comes to summer, with your holiday wardrobe comprising of not much more than a selection of swim shorts and some shirts and tops to pair with them. Since this is the case why not invest in some new styles for the upcoming sunshine, our guide will help you choose between the short and skimpy or long and loose.

Short and Tight

Think 007 and take style tips from Daniel Craig’s Casino Royale tight baby-blue GrigioPerla trunks. These trunks are tight and have a deep cut so require confidence when worn, though with less fabric flapping about, they are practical for swimming.

Bold and Bright

Orlebar Brown has become the key label to go to for this look. Its block colours and graphic prints, with distinctive side fasteners and shorter lengths, have been hugely influential. Together with Vilbrequin, who offer among other things, bold patterns and animal prints.

Super Short

Think of Jude Law as Dickie Greenleaf, in The Talented Mr Ripley as you get your legs out in these super short numbers. They are ideal for those of you with shorter legs as they will give the illusion of longer pins.

Board Shorts

Board shorts are a perennial beach classic, and are often favoured by an older crowd. They are also seen in a sportier context, either in bold red as a nod to Baywatch or fun prints for surfing. The flat-front drawstring tie will also flatter your torso.

Get a head start on the trickiest item in a man’s wardrobe

President John F Kennedy is said to have been responsible for the decline in the popularity of hats. For years, they were habitually worn in the same way that a coat or shoes are thrown on, but now they are deemed as too hard to pull off. However, with the help of our guide finding the right hat need not be difficult.

Panama

Confusingly, Panama hats originated from Ecuador, they were shipped to Panama to be sold to sailors and workers on the Panama Canal in the early 20th century, and the name stuck. They are made from woven palm leaves or straw, and this flexible weave can be crumpled or rolled up and will still retain its shape.

Flat Cap

The flat cap may not have the best reputation in the fashion world, after being misused many times by celebrities in the 90s. However, these hats have their merits, they walk the line between a baseball cap and a fedora, together with being very flattering on a lot of different face shapes.

Fedora

The fedora is a remarkably versatile hat. For a long time, it was only associated with a certain kind of dandyish Englishman, but it has now been liberated as a casual accessory. Felt hats are robust, and their history has more to do with pioneers in the outdoors than with the fashion elite.

Baseball Cap

First worn in 1860 by Brooklyn baseball team the Excelsiors, the snap-back baseball cap, so named because of the adjustable strap on the back, is an indispensable part of every man’s wardrobe. Lacking the pomp and seriousness of a felt or wool hat, the modern baseball cap comes in a huge variety of shapes, sizes, and styles.

by Eliza Scarborough

Graphic and madly elegant, Dior VIII recalls the iconic ‘Bar’ jacket. Its name, as if to highlight the very superstitious Monsieur Dior’s lucky number even better, recalls the date of the creation of his couture house, on the 8th of October 1946.

Dior VIII Montaigne Edition Saisonnière 2016, Cadran Couleur Rose Grenade by Dior Timepieces

Dior VIII Montaigne Ligne Corolle by Dior Timepieces Robe : Haute Couture PE 2014 – Look 37

Dior Grand Soir KaleiDiorscope N°5 by Dior Timepieces Robe : Haute Couture PE 2015 – Look 28

Dior VIII Grand Bal Pièce Unique Ondine N°5 by Dior Timepieces

Dior Grand Soir Origami N°46 by Dior Timepieces

Dior VIII Grand Bal Pièce Unique Ondine N°10 by Dior Timepieces Robe : Haute Couture AH 2015 – Look 11by

La D de Dior Satine by Dior Timepieces Robe : Haute Couture PE 2014 – Look 03

Dior VIII Grand Bal Coquette by Dior Timepieces Robe : Haute Couture AH 2015 – Look 01

Dior VIII Grand Bal Cancan by Dior Timepieces

La Mini D de Dior Satine by Dior Timepieces

Photographer : Peter Langer for Dior

Set Design : Lilly Marthe Ebener

Make-Up : Valérie Joudelat

Manicure : Elsa Deslandes

To transform the collection of Lady Dior bags, the House collaborated with London-born artist Marc Quinn. A renowned figure in the world of contemporary art, the artist transposes his vivid, hyper-realist oil paintings to Dior creations, marking a distinctly British moment for the brand, coinciding with the unveiling of the House of Dior in the British capital.

Guests boarded the Dior Blenheim Express, as the train was branded for the occasion, in London at the Victoria Station to make the two-hour journey through Oxfordshire countryside to Blenheim Palace, a sprawling estate that still serves as the home of the Dukes of Marlborough, where Dior would later showcase its Cruise 2017 collection. On arrival, invitees including Kate Beckinsale, Kate Mara, Elizabeth Olsen and Emma Roberts were assigned seats that started in the library and wound through a series of beautifully preserved rooms decorated with tapestries and family portraits. Panels printed with a painting of hunters and their hounds on a fox chase made for a temporary runway.

Blenheim was almost a homecoming for the brand, due to the history that it shares. Two shows were held in the same place in the ‘50s in the presence of Princess Margaret. The first, in 1954, was designed by Christian Dior, and the second, in 1958, by Yves Saint Laurent, who took over immediately after his death. Now it was over to Lucie Meier and Serge Ruffieux, who have been appointed to lead the womenswear team until Simons’s successor is named. The inspiration was not only the post-war high society’s wardrobes, but also the restlessness and wanderlust that characterised the period, the urge to travel, to discover the new. English country life is expressed via the tradition of the hunt, its reflection in the decorative arts, rather than its reality. Shots of red are evocative of the hunting pink, rustic tweeds and crisp poplin of country attire, while nineteenth-century equestrian scenes are knitted into intricate pictorial jacquards or fused into English country florals.

Those intermingle with rich devoré velvets and silks in Asian and African prints, patterns and embroideries, underscoring a mood of exploration. These inspirations from across the Channel meet the silhouettes and decorative details drawn from Parisian haute couture. The curvilinear form of the Bar jacket is tailored close to the body, and abbreviated at the hip or echoed in grand gestures of cloth, a full sleeve, a gathered peplum or pocket on generous coats.

Capsule Collection  

Created exclusively for NET-A-PORTER, Dolce & Gabbana’s 20 piece capsule collection is the perfect buy-now-wear-now collection to update your summer wardrobe. It features the brands iconic feminine silhouettes and bold prints.

Dubai Designs

Ralph Lauren introduces an exclusive women’s accessories collection, developed especially for their stores in Dubai and Qatar. It is influenced by the rich jewel tones and luxurious embellishment featured in the Ralph Lauren Spring 2015 Runway Collection and campaign, which paid homage to the exotic beauty of the region.

Fashion and Technology

Ullu, a luxury accessories brand with a large celebrity following, has recently launched in the UAE. From watch straps and mousepads, to phone and tablet covers, these everyday products have been exquisitely handcrafted in premium leather, ostrich, stingray and alligator.

Fashion Literature

This year marks what would have been Beatrix Potter’s 150th birthday. To celebrate, you can now buy five of her best-loved stories with covers reimagined by British and Irish fashion designers, from Preen to Henry Holland.

Kate Moss for Equipment

Celebrated for its modern, androgynous silhouettes, luxe fabrics and unexpected details, Equipment introduces its all new capsule in styles that are synonymous with the supermodel’s signature look.

Sports Chic

Giorgio Armani unveiled their new collection for the Italian Olympic team. Photographed on the Canary Islands, models Pietro Boselli and Penny Lane, worked with famed fashion photographer Serge Guerand, to present the range of polos, shorts, vests and accessories.

From tip to toe, add a stripe as the finishing touch to your summer wardrobe

Sara Battaglia for Salvatore Ferragamo crossbody bag

Malone Souliers sandals at Boutique 1

Anya Hindmarch Ephson shoulder bag at Boutique 1

Anya Hindmarch Georgiana clutch at Boutique 1

Christian Louboutin

Vero-dodat Clutch

Christian Louboutin

So Kate Python Raye Laminato pumps

Mulberry Lily

Dior Split sunglasses

Salvatore Ferragamo sandals

Fashion Director: Eliza Scarborough

Photographer: Henry Pascual

Model: Amy Williams

Louis Vuitton presented their 2017 Cruise collection in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil at the Oscar Niemeyer-designed Niterói Contemporary Art Museum. Set against the Atlantic Ocean, on a cliff overlooking the beach and Rio’s mountainous landscape, the winding walkway of the futuristic, utopia-like location made for a catwalk that was just as breath-taking as the clothes. Guests were seated on a single row of mismatched crates in bright shades, with a celebrity-studded crowd, including Alicia Vikander, Jaden Smith, Chiara Ferragni and Alessandra Ambrosio.

Brazilian idealism and Rio de Janeiro are the inspiration and starting point for the resort range. With its vivid, rainbow colours, ruffled accents and both grand prix and fútbol-inspired prints, the collection was an artful tribute to the city’s culture, capturing their vitality, energy, multi-culturalism, and freedom. Dresses with a streamlined spirit illustrate a sporty silhouette, with asymmetrical hems and slashed stripes on trousers to lengthen the silhouette. Luxuriously embroidered skirts appear to have been wrapped in haste, in the manner of a beach towel. Accessories included a classic Vuitton trunk fashioned into a boombox, belts and handbags with racing graphics and lots of easy, flat footwear, including gladiator-style flip-flops and pointed-toe boots. Further paying tribute to Rio, the collection also features a print from Brazilian artist Aldemir Martins’ ‘Rhoda Collection,’ recast on Louis Vuitton’s classic pieces.

‘I so admire the power of Oscar Niemeyer’s conviction. His vision, his radicality, his utopia even. Being able to show a fashion collection in such an architecturally powerful space is a sensorial experience. In Rio de Janeiro, what I saw most of all was movement and an explosive energy that lives somewhere between modernism and tropicality. I was fascinated by the constant duality between nature and urbanism and the pictorial explosion it creates. For me, the main question was how to incorporate into my collection all these elements that are part of Brazilian culture, without forgetting that I am just a visitor who brings his own Parisian and French cultural references to the moment.’

– Nicolas Ghesquière

From jet set to poolside, keep your holiday look fashion forward with our edit of the best summer accessories

LEFT TO RIGHT
Sep at Boutique 1
Vilebrequin
S*uce
Vilebrequin
Cultured Me at S*uce

Necklaces all S*uce

Bangles all Fendi

FROM LEFT TO RIGHT:

Preen At Boutique 1

Kyme and Rada at Etoile La Boutique

Dior So Real

Fendi Cats Eye

Fendi Aviator

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP:

Louis Vuitton Hibiscus sandal

Fendi mules

Paloma Barcelo espadrilles at Etoile La Boutique

Fendi sandals

FROM TOP

Yosuzi hat at Boutique 1

Sophie Anderson shoulder bag at Boutique 1

Kotur clutch at Etoile La Boutique

Sophie Anderson clutch at Boutique 1

Aranaz lobster basket at S*uce

Fashion Director : Eliza Scarborough

Photographer : Henry Pascual

Location : The Island Dubai

For ‘The Last Face’ premiere, Charlize chose a tailored masculine tuxedo suit. The tailored black evening suit was specially created for her by the House’s haute couture ateliers. Its slick silhouette borrows the codes of a man’s tuxedo as a way to better heighten femininity. It acts as a reference to Monsieur Dior who, in his own time, emphasised his clients’ sensuality by revisiting the traditional male wardrobe for them.

In the Dior atelier tailleur, specialising in structured clothing, the jacket is initially constructed in a rough form on a mannequin with Charlize Theron’s measurements, with a toile on which the darts, collar construction, pocket and button placements, and so on, are precisely marked.

This maquette serves as the basis for the wool barathea jacket. Once the black fabric has been cut out by following the pattern, it is put together, tweaked, and the collar added. Throughout these steps, the fabric is tacked with big white stitches that help the petites mains maintain the straight of grain so that the fabric falls perfectly. Black satin traces the lapel and runs the length of the leg, lending the finishing touch to this evening suit’s allure.

Jourdan wore a white silk gazar ball gown with pale blue lining by couturiers Ralph and Russo for ‘The Unknown Girl’ premiere. The masterpiece had a hand-painted floral design with crystal and glass bead 3D petal embellishment, together with co-ordinating hand crafted shoes.

Yes, it’s a film festival, but the Cannes red carpet has become home to a parade of dazzling looks that sometimes outshine the movies that stars are there to promote. After more than 100 red carpet, daytime and amfAR Gala looks, we have compiled the top outfits which stole the show at this year’s event. We also give you the inside story on how two of our favourite styles were designed, together with the work and craftsmanship that went into them.

A timeless relaxed elegance, where tradition meets modernity

This year Louis Vuitton pays tribute to its iconic loafer by celebrating its 10-year anniversary. Made from a tubular construction with a hand-stitched vamp and rubber nub sole, the shoe illustrates the brand’s savoir faire. The comfort and flexibility of this driving shoe, makes it an easy to pack, essential travel item.

From grained matt calf, to patent and Taïga, the style is always accessorised with the signature LV initials. For a more sophisticated and luxury version, exotic Caïman is crafted in a sober colour palette.

“I consider the bags the twin of the shoes, it is two people of the same family”

Born and raised in Paris, the city left an indelible mark on the life of Christian Louboutin which endures to this day. As a young man he was fascinated by Parisian music halls and theatres, and began designing shoes for dancers and showgirls, which was followed by an apprenticeship at Cabaret Folies Bergère. After two years, he moved on to work at Charles Jourdan, where he designed footwear for established fashion labels such as Yves Saint Laurent and Chanel.

Louboutin’s designs are powered by a lively and boundless imagination, with the inspiration behind the Paloma bag being no exception, taking the Parisian world of cabaret as its muse. Since his first experience there when he was younger, Louboutin held a deep admiration for this world, which exalted the female form in a mesmerising display of light, stirring sound and flawless choreography.

Why did you start designing bags?

At my first boutique on Rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau in Paris, we had a lot of customers asking for bags to go with the shoes – not in terms of matching a colour, but they liked details from the shoes and wished they could be found on a bag as well. Also, they were always asking, what kind of bag should I wear with this? As I started helping them with ideas, I found myself saying ‘it should be a type of bag like this’ and ended up sketching these fantasy bags for clients, showing them what volume would be good or shape or this and that.

What was the first bag you actually made?

It was the ‘Newspaper’ bag, which I designed based on one of those questions from a customer. It was a hard clutch, and a version of it has remained in the collections until recently.

What is your favourite bag from your collections?

I like the Maykimay clutch, which is made entirely from crystal chain-mail, but it’s soft and voluptuous. I like the flowing shape and the fact that there is no structure to it.

“A bag is like a diary, if you look into a bag of a woman, it is all there, like a film trailer”

How have the bag collections changed over the years?

The collections have simply grown organically from what the customer asked me for. Many of the earliest bags were for evening; women wanted smaller bags with less architecture. Later, I became more interested in the construction of the bag, a more precise form – the Paloma is a good example of this.

How is designing bags different from designing shoes?

The interesting thing about bag design is that however much detailing you put inside of it, the finished bag stays faithful to the original studio sketch. With a shoe, you have pressure to ensure the details do not alter the form, because ‘the woman has to ultimately wear and be supported by the shoe.’

Do you take a different creative process?

A woman is carried by her shoes, the shoes receive the woman. When the woman holds a bag, it’s very different – the way she wears it gives an attitude and perspective which has to be considered at the beginning of the process. For example, it was conscious decision to focus on the sides of the bag for Paloma, as when the woman holds a bag, the front and back are hidden by her body, the side is what is seen as she walks.

What was the concept behind the Paloma bag?

The Paloma concept has its roots in the ‘Trash’ series, a bag and shoes which were decorated with the fragments of life found in the atelier where they were being made. The Metro tickets, cigarette stubs, love letters, stamps and general trash of life which covered their surface ultimately told a story of a time and place. The Paloma tells the story of the showgirl.

And what is the Paloma story?

The Paloma tells the story of a world I discovered as a young man in Paris, the world of the showgirl. Here, the design components of the bag are the components of these dancers, backstage in their private dressing rooms where they prepare and transform for the show. For the Paloma, I reminisced about the dark setting, and elements of leopard print – always there was an element of leopard print, from a bathrobe to underwear strewn about the dressing room – and the bright shining lights around the dressing mirrors. The Paloma is not about one dancer, all the girls were different with individual characters, but within this setting were classic signs of femininity which they all shared.

So the Paloma takes its inspiration from the backstage world of the showgirl?

Exactly, it is an expression of all the things you would see behind the paravent or screen at the theatre, but also the showgirl herself. Paloma is a showgirl, the handles are shaped as her dancer’s legs, as if slipping through the stage curtain to the audience.

Do you imagine the woman who wears the Paloma to share an affinity with the showgirl?

There is an element of showgirl in every woman, when she shows her feathers, but the Paloma is about elements of classical femininity. You don’t have to be a showgirl to wear it, but you do have to be, and enjoy being, a woman.

What do you think about a woman’s relationship with her bag?

A bag is a diary of a woman, even more truthful than a diary in fact. If you look into the bag of a woman, it is all there, like a film trailer. It’s literally her baggage, and you realise very quickly that bags often need to be big, as a woman carries things which she will use during the whole day. A woman goes through a number of ‘steps’ each day, and so a bag is carrying the life of the woman to take these ‘steps,’ it’s almost an unedited map of her day.

What is the relationship between a Christian Louboutin pair of shoes and a Christian Louboutin bag?

I consider the bags to be the twin of the shoes, and so that leads me to the question, what is a twin for me? I think it is two people from the same character, of the same family – they are detail oriented, quality-driven, fun and need to have both a witty element and a feminine side. That is what they have in common but in the same way, they have their own identity. For example, if you were having dinner with one of a pair of twins, you are not having dinner with half a person. They have separate characters. The bag designs cannot be nourished only on the characters and details seen in the shoes, they have to grow into their own character.

The Paloma is available in two sizes, is this important for a woman?

Absolutely! The same bag can look like a suitcase on a petite woman, so of course, according to their size, they must have the opportunity to choose what looks best for them. Also, from my travels, I have noticed that some cultures demand a certain size of bag for a woman. The Paloma design is almost like origami, if you want to carry a number of things, it can expand in size.

Do you think some women consider utility more when they buy bags than shoes?

The bag as a diary for a woman means that when you open it, some of your life needs to remain hidden. So, in this way, some uses of the bag have to be taken into consideration when they buy the bag. But, it is no less an exciting choice, despite having practical concerns. What I have noticed, is that there are definitely some women who are really shoe women, and some who are bag women.

“The interesting thing about bag design is that however much detailing you put inside of it, the finished bag stays faithful to the original sketch.”

Soha Attieh is the Lebanese designer behind luxury handbag label SOA. She crafts one of a kind, modern designs, whilst experimenting with new and unordinary materials and skins such as snake, lizard and python amongst others. We chat to the stylish woman behind SOA to understand the DNA of the exclusive brand, together with what to keep in the perfect handbag.

How did the brand SOA begin?

I studied fashion design at ESMOD in Paris. However, my passion has always been accessories, and I started designing handbags with a friend for fun14 years ago. What began as a hobby soon became a business, and I found myself doing what I love most.

Who is the ultimate SOA girl and why?

My clientele ranges from a young hip girl to an older elegant woman. The one characteristic they all share however, is that they all appreciate luxury, quality and fine craftsmanship. The SOA client is after a rather chic and fun, durable, timeless piece.

If you could design a bag for anybody, past or present, who would you choose?

I would have loved to see Ava Gardner light up the silver screen with the ‘Jackie’ clutch. Both are sophisticated, elegant and flawless.

What are your favourite materials to work with?

I really love exotic skins, and that is the DNA of SOA.

Where do you find your inspiration?

My designs are minimalistic, but the techniques of craftsmanship are intricate. I am inspired with life all around me, from the people I meet, to nature and my travels. But above all, the materials I work with are the most inspiring. When I walk into a supplier’s showroom, my imagination goes into overdrive with all the colours, patterns and textures of the skins around me. In the end, working skins into my designs is like fitting a hand into a glove.

How do you define luxury?

Luxury is by nature timeless. Sustainable luxury to be specific is a combination of high quality, creativity, glamour and fineness with a deep respect for the environment. Products that don’t go out of fashion and are long-lasting implicate proper craftsmanship. This is what sets luxury products apart from the mainstream.

What is the best bag to take you from day to night?

The mini shoulder bags, such as the Mini Dana and Mini Alexis, are large enough to carry everything a girl needs during the day, yet elegant and playful for a night out.

What are the key things women should keep in mind when shopping for a new handbag?

Love at first sight. Quality. Practicality.

If you weren’t a handbag designer, what would you be?

I would be a cat!

What essentials do you carry in your bag on a day to day basis?

My go to bronzer and mascara. Sanitizer and Hand cream.

What is next for SOA?

I am starting to develop a small leather goods line and would eventually like to branch into shoes. Gaining a wider commercial presence is always a target, but no matter the product down the line, I would always want to position SOA as a luxury brand with sustainable values, creativity and passion at its core.

Available at Tryano Boutique Yas Mall, Yas Island – Abu Dhabi

by Eliza Scarborough

Adored for her attention to quality colourful luxurious fabrics, Adriana Iglesias collections present a mix of silk dresses, tailored pants, skirts and jackets incorporating delicate animal and floral print. Elegance and sophistication are paramount throughout the Spanish designer’s pieces, with comfortable, luxurious pieces for the youthful contemporary woman. We chat with the well-travelled designer and founder of the eponymous fashion label, about must have places to visit and packing tips.

Tell us about how your label began? Is this something that you had always dreamt of creating?

I have been in love with fashion all of my life, and I love art together with all of its expressions. I love to paint, to play piano and violoncello, and I love ballet. However, I spent 15 years working as a Telecommunications Engineer, but at the end of the day I was not very happy. I really think you cannot do great things if they are not coming from the heart and soul, so I chose to work on what I liked the most. One day, more than two years ago now, I decided to change my life and I started with a very personal capsule collection for my daughters and myself, and I really enjoyed doing this. It was expressing myself and our lifestyle, and people liked it very much, so I decided to go on and since then it has been non-stop.

Your new collection has a combination of both bohemian luxe and minimalistic simplicity. How would you describe the Adriana Iglesias customer and her style?

I only design what I would wear, and I feel good wearing feminine, but comfortable clothes. I think my clothes bring a message of elegance, sensuality and beauty, promoting at a high level the perception of femininity. So I would say the Adriana Iglesias woman is elegant, feminine, positive and sure of herself. She enjoys fashion but does not sacrifice to trends, and is a woman full of energy.

How do your Spanish roots blend with the style of the Middle East?

I think the Mediterranean in all of its aspects, acts as the point of union.

Has the Middle East always been a region that you have wanted to branch into?

I am more than sure that if you want to be someone in fashion the Middle East is a place to be. The regions represent a fascinating world and market with people who want to purchase beautiful, high quality and well-made products. When I visited Dubai for the first time I really fell in love with the elegance of the women. I love to see women in the Middle East living their lives with lots of different traditions and personal styles, including the integration of the social codes of the region and the form of individual expression. I strongly respect tradition, as I think it is the foundation of a strong sense of national and regional identity. As a foreign brand I will always have this in my mind, dressing women whilst staying faithful with their traditions. I just dream about women wearing my pieces and appreciating the spirit of the brand all around the world.

Many of your collections have been based around different areas of the world. Is travel very important to you?

Yes! Actually I cannot imagine a life without travelling. I cannot remember a journey that has not somehow changed me. In life we are either worried about our past or anxious about our future. It is hard sometimes to be in the present. But when you travel, your mind is there, you experience so much for the first time without any effort, and you’re present in the moment. This is why you are open to new cultures, new people, religions or way of life. You’re forced to challenge preconceived ideas, expand your awareness and be introduced to greater diversity, which in turn helps you to know yourself better. As I put my soul in my work everything is really coming from me, and everything is reflected in my collections.

What inspires you and your designs?

Actually I am attracted to nature itself, I find inspiration there most of the time. I cannot observe flowers and colours without a smile, as I think floral prints transmit beauty and optimism. I breathe the Mediterranean from every pore of my skin and all of my collections reflect my personal life and this includes my travels.

The collections are like a story written in line with the different seasons, while the prints are inspired by this focus on the Mediterranean Sea. I am in love with life, so as I design I do what comes from the very inside of me. Vibrant colours from nature inspire the designs, from flowers I remember in Hvar, to the intense blue of the Sea in Duvrovnik, or Santorini.

Tell us about a favourite place that you have visited and your memories?

If I have to say just one, it would be Tulum. The natural peacefulness, gentle breezes and the hypnotic sounds of waves crashing against the white sand, make it a really great place to stop your mind. You find a simple tranquillity there at the small and intimate eco-friendly beachfront hotels. I really loved that spot and I had a great time there with my children.

Where is next on your wish list to travel to?

My bucket-list is as big as the world. There are a lot of places I have been to in the past before having my children, and I would really love to go back with them as there is something very special about living it again with them. The Polynesian Islands, for instance. Also the Hotel du Cap Eden Roc in Antibes. It is a true garden of Eden in the Mediterranean where privacy, luxury, glamour and charm combine with perfection. No words really do justice to the beauty of this place.

Implementing iconic vintage paisley patterns, Adriana Iglesias’ AW16 collection embodies Far West meets early Eastern symbolism in a kaleidoscopic array of prints.

What is your top tip for summer holiday packing?

Roll up each piece of clothing to get more space in the suitcase and avoid creasing.

What is your must have travel accessory?

I cannot travel without a pashmina scarf, as I need it very much due to the air conditioning on the plane, or in hotel lobby’s.

by Eliza Scarborough

The event was held at the Jumeirah beach hotel private majlis area, where it was very well attended with the social elite of Dubai. The ladies only invite was a fashionable mix of all nationalities, including bloggers, fashion designers, businesswomen, TV personalities and influencers.

Rashmi Kumari Ahmad & Ashumi Siroya

The setting was elegant with beautiful lanterns and floral arrangements. The photo booth and Henna artist added to the charm of the event, together with delicious food for the guests. The celebrations continued until late into the evening with all the guests enjoying the food and music.

In one of the most precious gems of the French Riviera, Port du Cap d’Ail, Bulgari unveiled its new Magnificent Inspirations High Jewellery collection reminiscent of the blues of the Mediterranean, the pinks of a Roman sunset, the gold of ancient ages, expressed into three facets of inspiration, daring Italian Extravaganza, romantic Mediterranean Eden and mythical Roman Heritage.

The unveiling of the Magnificent Inspirations High Jewellery Collection was made at Port du Cap D’Ail on the French Riviera, hosted by Jean-Christophe Babin, Bulgari Group CEO. Amongst the international press, socialites and VIPs in attendance, the most noteworthy guests were actress Juliette Binoche, shining in a magnificent Italian Extravaganza High Jewellery necklace, top model Toni Garrn wearing a Mediterranean Eden High Jewellery necklace, actor and Bulgari’s brand ambassador for watches Luke Evans, Chinese actress Carina Lau resplendent in a Roman Heritage High Jewellery necklace, model Matthew Bell, socialite HSH Princess Lilly zu Sayn Wittgenstein Berleburg and star photographer Fabrizio Ferri. Guests were welcomed to the cocktails by the serene tune of a harp followed by a spectacular High Jewellery show with models gracefully strolling around the swimming pool during sunset. To the delight of all, American acoustic band The Phly Boyz provided entertainment throughout the dinner. To end the evening a cheerful Syncronette performance was made in the outdoor swimming pool, together with a live DJ-set performance by Sergio Tavelli.