Escape to Capri!

Earlier in June, Louis Vuitton jewellery invited their top clients and executives and gathered on the rooftop patio at Casa Malaparte, a private villa nestled on a cliff in Capri, for catwalk to show their latest high jewellery collection Acte V- The Escape. A collection inspired by the “Streamline Moderne” style that was a late type of the Art Deco architecture and design that emerged in the 1930s. Its architectural style emphasized curving forms, long horizontal lines, and sometimes, nautical elements.

a&e was privileged to be part of this exclusive event and we had the pleasure of meeting Louis Vuitton’s High Jewellery Vice president, Hamdi Chatti at that beautiful venue and the chance to chat to him about this unique collection.

Why did you choose Capri for your event?

Capri as a location is very romantic and high jewellery is all about romance. Whenever you buy a jewellery piece, particularly high jewellery, you remember the first time you tried it on; and you remember the location, so everyone will remember Capri.

Louis Vuitton high jewellery is relatively still young, how can you describe the design DNA?

That’s true! We only started six years ago so High Jewellery is a new era for us. We don’t have a tradition on high jewellery; we have a tradition on the luxury and the craftsmanship.

We want to have a new style that doesn’t exist in high jewellery brands, a style you can’t find anywhere else. A Louis Vuitton High Jewellery piece is not only about design, but it’s more about how to wear it and how often you wear it!

So the whole DNA behind Louis Vuitton is all about Louis Vuitton and the idea that of course there’s a craft, of course there are beautiful stones and rare gemstones, but it is designed in a way that you don’t keep it in your safe but you can wear on many occasions.

We just saw the collection and it has stunning pieces, what makes you unique as a brand and sets you apart of the rest?

To be honest we are not the only ones having stunning pieces, with Louis Vuitton we introduce not only a design but also a lifestyle. For us it is all about building endless memories wearing Louis Vuitton Jewellery.

How do you assess the performance of Louis Vuitton High Jewellery in our region? Can you name your best performing country?

The Middle East is a highly educated market when it comes to high jewellery. People there have been always interested in high quality since a long time. They are experts and they appreciate luxury, as it is a part of their lifestyle. They are clients that want to be impressed.

When it comes to the best performing market it’s difficult to say. I could say Dubai but then our customers from the Middle East travel around the world and they buy from everywhere such as London, Paris and many other places.

What challenges do you face today?

It is only one challenge: making sure that we offer exceptional pieces.

You’ve been with the brand for almost 6 years now, what’s an objective you still aim to achieve?

I want to make sure that people dream about our products.

What are customers looking for nowadays?

They want to stare! They want to build memories!

What was your personal favourite piece from this collection?

It is an easy question! It’s the Capri!

To what extent being a part of a successful fashion house supports your watches and Jewellery?

It is amazing actually!

Being part of the Louis Vuitton house is a great opportunity. It is a great and perfect time for the jewellery and watches to meet our clients.

We don’t have to explain who we are as clients trust our company and our brand. We just need to continue surprising them.

How was the collection received?

So fast and so good! We will miss some pieces, but that is life!

How would you describe this collection in your own three words?

Impressive. Surprising. A good feeling that will stay with me for a long time!

Interviewed by Lara Mansour Sawaya

The first thing you noticed at the Armani Privé Haute Couture Fall 2015 show was the hot pink backdrop that sets the scene to shock – this was certainly the theme of the collection. And although models were rendered uniform, each with prominent brows and a spiky barnet, this made us truly focus on the glorious technicolour of clothes.

Colours were woven together, blending and shading into each other. Malachite green, lapis lazuli blue, amethyst purple and tourmaline green were splashed on a hot pink background with contrasting black elements. Swarovski crystals were skilfully embroidered onto garments to create countless nuances for one-of-a-kind masterpieces. As detailed and glossy as the clothes were, there was a rawness with their tattered threads and shaggy undertone. Armani explored an infinity of textures with his feathers, knots and fringing that were luscious and detailed and let’s not disregard the subtle spirit of punk that was prevalent in the collection too.

Earlier in July, we had the privilege of being invited to Paris to discover Chaumet’s latest High Jewellery collection “ Joséphine” known as “The Art of Style”

 We had a chat with Jean-Marc Mansvelt, Chaumet CEO to tell us more about this unique “Maison” and the collection.

You joined Chaumet as a CEO in Januray 2015, tell us about the objectives you aim to achieve?

The first objective is a personal one; and that is to learn about Chaumet more. You just need time to dig into the beautiful history of this house and understand it.

The second would be working to elevate the positioning of the brand and bring it to the highest levels. There is a lot of work involved to achieve this objective: the way we tell the story, the way we explain the patrimony, the creativity and the savoir-faire of Chaumet.

And another main objective is to always work on bringing the energy in terms of collections and products and to show the amazing creativity coming from 235 years of history. We need to create more reason always to be in love with Chaumet.

How would you describe the design DNA of Chaumet?

We have worked for the past six months on this question. What is the style of Chaumet? Since two hundred years Chaumet has been very unique and exceptional. It’s not about being demonstrative, it’s about the lightness, the brightness, and when you go beyond the normal explanation. It is about being a little bit more cultural where there is a meaning behind those beautiful pieces. For us it is always important not to be too loud and sumptuous.

With a brand that is not so “loud and sumptuous” as you stated, what strategy you adopt to stay ahead of competition in this market?

One of the main reasons why Chaumet is so successful, it is because of its exclusivity and the fact that it is not everywhere and not for everyone. Chaumet has a sense of distinction. It has an aristocratic style and feeling. Our target is very specific. The approach of our colleagues may be extremely successful and extremely visible, but for us we want to offer something different. Now it’s about finding the balance of being visible in that sense but not too much. That’s the path we are taking.

What do you think the struggles that the industry is facing nowadays?

In some areas there is a certain lack of exclusivity and selectivity. For some of the key players the expansion was so big, so quick and fast. There is a challenge there. Again it’s a question of balance. When you go too fats you just burn steps!

The challenge would be: how much the luxury industry, the jewellery, the watchmaking and the rest can still tell stories of what’s behind the products and the positioning and reaching the DNA, the history, and the patrimony.

How was the collection “Joséphine” received?

The collection was very well received. Clients from different regions around the world were very seduced by this collection. Different couples were interested in different designs.

Any favourites among the collection based on the feedback you received? what do you think the customers are looking for?

“Rondes de Nuit” was highly favoured as it is in line with the “Josephine” story. It is modern yet legitimate and coherent with Josephine. Today people are looking for beautiful and distinctive pieces that they can love and invest in but most importantly looking for pieces from brands that they can trust and that not everyone can wear.

High jewellery to some clients is something to invest in and to others it is just simple and personal. Chaumet is not only about the aristocratic sense of people but also about being alive.

What’s in the pipeline for the brand in our region?

The Middle East is one of the regions that carry real opportunities. It is not a region where we achieved our full potentials yet for many reasons. It is a combination of things: 1) the brand is not really well known in depth and there’s a lot to be told about it, and 2) We have a few stores.

Our aim is to be successful where we are and expand gradually. It is better to first get the awareness and understanding before going massive.

What do you think of the celebrity endorsement and to what extent do you think it is crucial?

We are still working with Marine Vacth. We are happy and she is so Chaumet . She’s very selective just like our brand.What I observe also from our friends at place Vendome is that they don’t have faces but more of having red carpet presence etc..

It is crucial to be visible. Like in Cannes we had a nice presence, and in many cases they chose Chaumet as it is unique and more distinctive.

Any plans of upcoming events to sponsor?

We already participated in being the Official Sponsor of the Ce’sar Awards Ceremony in Singapore and it was very important for us. We will also participate in the César Ceremony next year and be more qualitative. Chaumet is about the transmission of savoir-faire from generation to generation and we will always seek new opportunities.

What can you say to the customers in our region that still think the coloured diamonds has less value than white diamonds?

The perception is clearly changing and in some regions clients look for coloured stones such as in India and Asia especially when we are talking about high-end clients that want to invest in High jewellery. The change or shift is happening gradually and we can observe that. It is also the same for all our colleagues in the industry, probably it will remain a challenge in Middle East but it’s surely changing in the rest of the world.

How can you define Chaumet in 3 characters?

1) Incredible at the level of execution 2) Distinctive as Chaumet doesn’t look like any other brand I know in this industry or elsewhere. 3) Creative! I am incredibly impressed with the 235 years of creations and all the key creators that have been part of the Chaumet history.

What was your personal favorite piece from collection?

Rondes de Nuit !

What are you wearing now on your wrist from Chaumet?

The Dandy ! I just love it as it is very distinctive.

Interviewed by Lara Mansour Sawaya

Event organizer Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons reveals the week’s special educational programs and prestigious list of participating partners

The key objective behind Dubai Watch Week (DWW) is to support the watch industry and raise awareness on the art of watchmaking. To encourage and continue the growth of horology in the region and to bring the public closer to the world of , Dubai Watch Week’s (DWW) organiser Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons unveils the special educational programmes especially developed for the inaugural event, taking place 18-22 October, and the prestigious partners supporting this initiative.

Premiering for the very first time during DWW are the Seddiqi educational initiatives including the Seddiqi scholarship, the Swiss Watch Services (SWS) internship and a rare mentorship programme, all of which are now open to registration on the DWW site, as well as registration for the Art of Horology forum.

The Seddiqi Scholarship: Seddiqi Holding – Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons’ holding company- in association with Dubai Watch Week has partnered with Watchmakers of Switzerland Training and Educational Programme (WOSTEP), one of the highest regarded and globally recognised watch schools in Switzerland. A $35,000 scholarship will be offered to one potential watch enthusiast to complete a comprehensive watchmaking course and obtain a coveted WOSTEP degree in watchmaking. One of the key objectives of the week is to ultimately identify and introduce the first UAE based watchmaker to the Swiss watch industry.

Swiss Watch Services Internship: A member of Seddiqi Holding and the after-sales service provided for Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons, Swiss Watch Services- the only facility of its kind in the region launches the first-ever internship programme during the Dubai Watch Week (DWW). The maximum three-month programme is aimed at current and fresh graduates from international watch schools, looking to develop their talent in the unique, state-of-the-art service centre.

Dubai Watch Week (DWW) Mentorship: Designed to encourage upcoming curators and writers from the region to further develop their understanding of horology, this programme aims to provide a talent with the opportunity to be mentored by the experts, journalists and writers in the watch industry. This year’s mentors made up of distinguished writers from around the world will select one protégé for a one-month, who will be mentored by the industry experts. Upon completion of the mentorship, DWW will publish the editorial work developed as part of the programme.

Celebrating and sharing the history, achievements and tradition of master craftsmanship in the world of horology, Dubai Watch Week will collaborate with select local and international partners that share DWW’s vision of innovation, prestige and significance to support this momentous five-day event.

In continuing to engage the Emirati community within the world of watchmaking, Dubai Culture will lead the scholarship programme under the patronage of Her Highness Sheikha Latifa bint Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum, Vice Chairman of the Dubai Culture & Arts Authority. The works produced by Emirati artists and designers will use watch components as inspiration from DWW.

“Promoting Emirati talent and providing them significant platforms to showcase their skills and creativity is a core commitment of Dubai Culture,” said HH Sheikha Latifa. “The scholarship programme will serve to encourage and inspire Emirati and Dubai-based talent to explore the creative potential in the world of horology. The event is a strong statement on our concerted efforts to promote public private sector collaboration and achieve the goals of the Dubai Plan 2021 to develop a city of happy, creative and empowered people. We are confident that Dubai Watch Week, a home-grown initiative, will add to the reputation of our city in fostering creativity and nurturing talent.”

Internationally supported by the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Geneve (GPHG), who follow a vision to promote Swiss watchmaking and its values around the world, this year, GPHG will be showcasing one of its five global exhibition during the event- making this the very first exhibition of this magnitude in the region since 2013.

This year, Dubai Watch week will be supported by Emirates Airline, the official carrier of the event. Dubai Watch Week is another channel of sponsorship which allows the airline to engage with its existing customers as well as offer an opportunity to support the growth of the creative industries in Dubai.

“Education and awareness-building is a critical element of Dubai Watch Week, and our objective is to foster skills development in the emerging generation of watchmakers, service people, and the media who cover this sector,” said Melika Yazdjerdi, Director, Dubai Watch Week and Head of Corporate Communication, Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons. “Organizations including Dubai Culture, Christie’s, and The Dubai Mall share our commitment to expand the community of watch enthusiasts in the region, and their support of the inaugural Dubai Watch Week in invaluable.”

Regional partners include the world’s largest and most visited shopping mall, The Dubai Mall. Through collaboration with Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons, key retailer partners and unique exhibition featuring timepieces from 10 luxury brands that include Audemars Piguet, Bulgari and Tiffany. The timepieces will be displayed across the mall with an exclusive exhibition in areas including the Souk atrium located in the mall. Also supporting the global drive, exposure and initiative of Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons to establish Dubai as a vital destination for the global watch community, Christie’s, one of the world’s leading platforms for avid collectors, is the exclusive auction partner for the inaugural edition of DWW.

“Dubai Watch Week will be the center-point of attention for the entire watch industry as of mid-October and Christie’s is thrilled to be part of it. To underline the importance of this event Christie’s will be showcasing alongside the 160 watch strong Dubai sale content, highlights from the other three main auction rooms – New York, Hong Kong and Geneva. Dubai Watch Week will offer an important platform for sharing ideas, building partnerships, and literally making Dubai the center of the watch world for this sure to be memorable event,” says John Reardon, International Head of Christie’s global watch department.

Giorgio Armani at work – © Roger Hutchings

From fashion buyer to one of the most coveted fashion designers, entrepreneurs, and humanitarians in today’s world, Giorgio Armani’s empire can be traced back to his entry into the fashion world through the doors of a department store. In 1964, he began to work as a designer for Hitman, Nino Cerruti’s menswear line and from then on his ambition to go big and solo, came into objective. Since its launche in 1975, The Giorgio Armani Group has managed to become one of the leading fashion and luxury goods groups in the world today, with over 6,500 direct employees and 12 factories.

It designs, manufactures, distributes and retails fashion and lifestyle products, including apparel, accessories, eyewear, watches, jewellery, fragrances, cosmetics, furniture and home furnishings under a range of brand names: Giorgio Armani Privé, Giorgio Armani, Emporio Armani, Armani Collezioni, AJ | Armani Jeans, A/X Armani Exchange, Armani Junior and Armani/Casa. The Group’s exclusive distribution network comprises 2,203 directly-owned stores worldwide but still gave Giorgio Armani enough time and willpower to delve into humanitarian work, making him a UN Goodwill ambassador in 2002. His success as a fashion designer was always on the forefront, not forgetting that he became the first designer after Christian Dior to be featured on the cover of Time magazine. Of his many accolades, he was named Best International Designer in as early as the year 1983 by the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA), and received many honourary awards by the nation of Italy, Lifetime achievement awards, Man of the Year awards by GQ USA to name only a few. His style and collections have always been inspired by the city of Rome and its powerful and rich history.

“As beautiful as the most sumptuous of sets, he says, it never ceases to enchant me. It is the city of a thousand films; a city that seduces the world, contributing to that sensual, sunny image for which Italy is known, and which characterises a style of life that has come to be generally perceived as the expression of a dream and of strong, positive values.”

A dominant element he is also very known for, is the colour Greige. Not Beige, but Greige. These two are very close in tone, but are not the same colour. As proven in his SS15 Haute Couture show which took us on a trip to Asia with its Bamboo inspired set and collection, Armani knows how to make spectacular garments out of such a demure shade.

The colour greige, which opens up a wealth of possibilities for a designer, matches the soft richness of the Armani style. A non-colour, greige is a special hue that is a cross between beige and grey.

Armani Casa Exclusive Textiles by Rubelli 2014

Armani Runway lab palette

“I love natural colours – including greige – because they offer tranquillity and serenity, and are a base to play with as you desire,” – says Giorgio Armani.

The colour Greige – Armani’s signature style

Giorgio Armani SS2015

“They are also a way to connect with other colours – and pair well with these. Greige is like a palette background. It’s something that remains constant, and on which to envisage other things.” Giorgio Armani’s collections have been exhibited around the world, in some of the most prestigious museums and galleries. Day by day, the value and significance of these archival pieces immensely grow, as Armani’s seasonal collections always welcome rave reviews from industry insiders.

The Power Suit

For the production of “Fair Game” in 2010, Giorgio Armani collaborated with costume designer Cindy Evans on select wardrobe looks for the Naomi Watts character, Valerie Plame Wilson.

The Giorgio Armani film fashions echo the real life Armani wardrobe of Valerie Plame Wilson. The costumes include classic Giorgio Armani skirt suits, as well as jacket and trouser ensembles.   In fact, Valerie Plame Wilson wore Giorgio Armani while the events depicted in the film were unfolding, particularly when she testified before Congress.

“When I saw the photo of Valerie courageously testifying before Congress, I wanted to play a part in this project. To me, that exemplified a power suit moment. After meeting Naomi and Valerie in Cannes this year when the film was in competition, I was proud to be associated with and dressing these strong and stunning women.”

In the year 2013, Giorgio Armani collaborated with costume designer April Ferry to create the style and wardrobe for the character of Secretary Delacourt, played by Jodie Foster, in the futuristic film “Elysium.” Foster wears select Giorgio Armani suits throughout the film.

“My real personal pleasure with ‘Elysium’ was to be given the honor of outfitting my longtime friend, Jodie Foster. She remains one of my favourite actresses. I admire her work, her talent, her life. In the film, I’m captivated by how she personifies the world of 2154 while also making my designs utterly timeless.”

Armani lent his signature style to director Joe Wright’s Hanna in 2011, outfitting Academy Award winner Cate Blanchett in select wardrobe for her pivotal role in the boldly original Focus Features adventure thriller, filmed on location in Europe and Morocco. Given Mr. Wright’s weaving elements of dark fairy tales into the story, his vision of Marissa as the Wicked Witch of the story meant that her colors would be red, for her hair, and green in her attire. Giorgio Armani discussed with costume designer Lucie Bates and Ms. Blanchett how to best achieve selected looks for the character. The resulting silhouettes included elegantly tailored suiting and a striking green-colored cashmere overcoat.

“Working with Cate Blanchett, on and off the screen, has always been a highlight for me,” notes Mr. Armani. “She embodies the perfect combination of consummate actor and world-class fashion icon”

From runways to airlines, movie screens and Football fields

In 1991, Armani showed off his Italian pride by creating a wardrobe for Italy’s ALITALIA flying attendants. He also briefly gets a taste of interior design by designing the interiors of the Alitalia MD 11 aircraft, one year later. This passion will be revisited more than two decades later, in a global hub that would prove to be one of the fastest developing cities in the world. Until then, Armani would have solidified himself in the performing arts sector dressing members of Milan’s “Orchestra Verdi” in 1998, Ballet dancers for the Hamburg Ballet and the theatre cast of Il Barbiere Di Siviglia by Paisiello, amongst many others along the years.

Hollywood also witnessed the talent of Giorgio Armani as his signature style was front and center in Academy Award nominated director J.C. Chandor’s much anticipated film, “A Most Violent Year.” The film, starring acclaimed actor Oscar Isaac and two-time Academy Award nominated actress Jessica Chastain, is a searing crime drama set in New York City during the winter of 1981, statistically the most dangerous year in the city’s history. For the production, Giorgio Armani worked with director Chandor and esteemed costume designer Kasia Walicka-Maimone. Chastain and Walicka-Maimone traveled to Milan to visit the private, burgeoning Giorgio Armani archives. In addition to some contemporary looks clearly inspired by the 1980s, most of the pieces that were worn are well-preserved vintage garments from the same period.The Armani design team was very open minded to create new combinations of pieces from the archives and timeless pieces from more recent collections. The film team followed with an extensive search in U.S. and Europe for vintage Giorgio Armani casual pieces according to Kasia Walicka-Maimone.

Giorgio Armani has been on the forefront of creating wardrobe looks for major motion pictures since he pioneered the movement by dressing Richard Gere in “American Gigolo” in 1980. In 1994, he also entered the Sports world by designing the football jerseys of Italy’s National team for the World Cup. It wasn’t long until British players also grew aware of the designer’s knack for the sport, as the Football Association also signed him up to design the official off-field wardrobe for the England Football Team in a three year contract. Following Italy and England, Armani also created the clothing for the 2014 champion team of Germany’s Bundesliga and winners of the Champions League 2013 and the FIFA Club World Cup 2013, FC Bayern München. The wardrobe came from the Giorgio Armani Made to Measure Collection, and the all the garments were customised with a label stating: ‘Giorgio Armani for’, followed by the name of the wearer.

Richard Gere on the Poster of American Gigolo dressed in Armani

Vintage advertising from Spring Summer 1985 – © Aldo Fallai

Beyond fashion Entering the realm of hospitality

Giorgio Armani did just that as he ventured into the interior design industry in the year 2000. In addition to Armani Casa, his home furnishing division, Giorgio Armani Cosmetics also launched during the same year. “Over these years, my idea of style has always moved with the times, but without altering the key elements of my philosophy and my aesthetic,” he says. “My personal taste has remained the same as when I started, expressing a deep appreciation for all things simple and straightforward. However, my focus has always been on the future rather than the past, because I think we should always look forward.” Forward he looked, as he signed a contractual agreement with EMAAR hotels & Resorts LLC. foreseeing the opening of at least seven luxury hotels and three vacation resorts within the next ten years. Emaar is the property developer that inaugurated Burj Khalifa, the world’s tallest building and free-standing structure, as well as the Dubai Mall, the world’s largest shopping centre. In 2007, The “Armani Residence” is unveiled in Burj Dubai and three years later, world’s first Armani Hotel also opens its doors in Dubai. Every aspect of the hotel’s design and service offerings was designed and planned by Giorgio Armani, from the bespoke furnishings to restaurant menus and in-room amenities. “It has long been my dream to have a hotel in which I myself would like to stay and entertain family and friends, where the Armani aesthetic is combined with Italian-style warmth and hospitality,” says Giorgio Armani. Dedicating nearly five years to the project, Armani personally oversaw every aspect of the hotel’s design. The result is a property that feels bespoke, from the Eramosa stone floors, zebra wood paneling and fabric covered walls to the scents of the bath and spa accessories. Marking the designer’s first foray into the world of hospitality, the Armani Hotel Dubai brought to life the Stay with Armani philosophy, promising a “home-away from-home” experience.

The Armani Hotel Milano would become the second hotel to be launched within the Armani Hotels & Resorts project marking the continued collaboration with Emaar Properties PJSC. Interestingly, this Armani hotel, created within a palazzo, is shaped by the architectural ground plan as an immense “A”. This can be seen in the original Griffini drawings, and is something that is only visible from above.

An Armani restaurant, spa, business centre, lounge, and bar, all span across the 1,200 square metre area occupied by the hotel. Having mastered the art of fashion design, Giorgio Armani’s growing ambition was expected to have no limits. Introducing new concepts and projects year after year, the most recent being his first Emporio Armani Swiss made watch collection, the legend of Armani will see to it that no terrain is left unconquered.

“What I have achieved and built in the last 40 years makes me very proud indeed. I managed to create a complete Armani lifestyle, which reflected my ideas and could be applied to a number of different areas, even outside of the fashion industry, such as interior design or hotels.” – Giorgio Armani

How heavy is the weight of the legacy you are carrying today for Cartier?

You have to think of “legacy” as a springboard that helps you to grow further. Winston Churchill once said a very interesting quote when he said that the branches of a tree can’t grow further than the roots.

With such are a heritage and experience, 165 years in fact, you get a mastering of expertise and the workshop is a craft itself, where you accumulate experience from generation to generation. Now in 2015, we have all these past experiences. The golden age of high jewelry and haute horlogerie is now, because these past experiences are enabling people to go further. We don’t want to imitate what has been done in the past, on the contrary, we want to use them as a springboard to be more audacious and be known as pioneers in the way we create and surprise our clients.

We are noticing nowadays, a drive back to invest in high jewelry and brand is giving presentations and in a day or two the collection is sold out. Is this a healthy indication for you?

That’s right! This proves that women and men today are looking for reassurance and buying with the heart and also with the mind. They want to be able to explain to their kids and their friends why they made this acquisition with Cartier, because we have been the leaders in Auctions since 100 years. In Sotheby’s two years ago in Geneva, where the most expensive jewelry that was auctioned, was a Cartier Ruby ring for over 30 million Swiss Francs. The gentleman who bought this ring 10 years ago saw its price drastically multiplied after a decade. It shows that with Cartier, you can have something that you can pass on to the next generation or sell at an auction one day. You have to recognize something for its expertise. All of these combined, you have a piece of art that is timeless and universal, with this, you have a lighthouse in a storm that gives you all dimensions.

What are the challenges that the industry is facing today?

The challenge is to explain more to the clients how we are crafting and what we’re doing for them to understand better as there’s still a lot of mystery around haute horlogorie and high jewelry. Today 90% of men and women are buying jewelry with no name, which is a mistake. If you will pass it on to the next generation it will not be useful and if you want to sell at an auction it will only be worth the price of gold. With such circumstances, nothing beats the expertise that we have. We have a style that is recognizable, the best gemstones and 165 years of experience.

We met in SIHH and we spoke about the novelties at that time. Tell us how the market received Clé?

It was excellent. The feedback was Superb! It’s a watch that is a “Montre de forme” a shape watch that plays with the strength of Cartier and was very well received everywhere.

This collection is inspired by nature and translated through jewelry into pieces of art. How long did it take to work on these pieces? What was the design process?

It took 165 years to create, because it encompasses all the experience we have. This reminds me of a story that Pablo Picasso said when he met a couple that asked him to make a sketch of the wife, and after 30 minutes, the sketch turned out beautiful. The husband asked ‘how much do I owe you?’ Pablo Picasso quoted a very high number, and the husband did not understand why. And so, Picasso explained, ‘it took me 67 years to do it actually, not 30 minutes,’ referring to his lifetime of experience.

You started in a critical economic year in Europe, do you assess the market now?

It’s difficult to predict. The world has always been with ups and downs and whatever happens, Cartier always grows, because we bring reassurance and attraction whether it’s raining or there’s sunshine. People always need to spread fun and friendship, and we communicate to this idea.

If I ask you about endorsement, how important do you think it is?

The best endorsements are the clients and they have always been. To name a few like Elizabeth Taylor, Jacky kennedy and many more.

What’s in the pipeline for the Middle East?

There will be surprises!

What are you wearing now and why?

The Rotonde Mysterieuse watch. It has two hands rotating differently which is part of the Mystery, which we would never explain how it works! When you look at your watch, you say ‘my time is precious, my time is different’. It’s just extraordinary!

What’s your personal motto?

“Whatever it takes!”

What would you tell people about the man who’s leading this brand today?

My mission is to build further the legacy of Cartier and keep on surprising people. The Creations of Cartier today will be the treasures of tomorrow.

Interviewed by Lara Mansour Sawaya

From Rolex & Tudor to Jaeger-LeCoultre, tell us more about the DNA of the brand, and what sets you apart from other watch brands?

Jaeger-LeCoultre is a 182 year old Manufacture. The brand’s inventiveness and heritage characterises our Maison. These aren’t just meaningless platitudes; both qualities are clearly demonstrated by our heritage gallery. The level of independence we enjoy in our production facilities sets us apart from other brands who struggle to find suppliers for their parts, we don’t have this problem. Our main current challenge is linked to our growth and meeting our demand. The market has clearly expressed a desire to see more of our high complications. So, we are aiming to increase our production capacity of these by focusing on training. Our watchmakers follow an upward progression in our manufacture. They learn from our most trained masters to themselves become mentors

You’ve been with Jaeger- LeCoultre since 2011. How did it feel to become CEO, and what’s an objective you are still aiming to achieve?

Prior to my nomination I was the industrial director for the Maison. I therefore knew the manufacture quite well. Our main challenge is to keep on building this place and to deliver the spirit of invention to our audience whilst staying true to our heritage.

What do you think customers are looking for nowadays and who is the Jaeger-LeCoultre man and woman?

Customers are nowadays looking for true watchmaking content and they are looking for legitimate Maisons which are inventive and at the same time true to their heritage. With over 180 years of true watchmaking and constant innovation I think Jaeger-LeCoultre offers all of that. Customers also want more than a simple purchase; they want an entire experience, a journey, which must be in line with their perception of the timepiece they are about to acquire, and they want excellent customer service worldwide.

When it comes to defining the Jaeger-LeCoultre man and woman, it is a difficult exercise as our collections are very diverse, from the iconic Reverso to the Extreme Lab. However, it is safe to say the Jaeger-LeCoultre man and woman appreciate understated luxury, craftsmanship and authenticity.

Tell us more about the SIHH novelties and how the collection was received.

This year’s collection was inspired by the Astral theme. We used this opportunity to highlight the expertise of Jaeger-LeCoultre in astral complications. Our philosophy is as always to push the limits of the watchmaking art, which is why we have sought to provide the most precise moon-phases.

The moon phase of the Duomètre Sphérotourbillon will therefore show a one-day difference after a stunning 3,887 years and 972 years for the moon phase of the Rendez-Vous Moon.

To embody the magnetic beauty of the sky, moon and stars, Jaeger-LeCoultre opted for materials directly related to its source of inspiration, such as meteorite stone, lapis lazuli and bordeaux aventurine. These rare and mysterious materials are an integral part in the design of the watches, while offering a singular experience through the energy and intensity they convey. The collection was very well received.

How do you assess the Swiss watchmaking industry now in comparison with the last five years? What are the obstacles and challenges that you are facing?

In recent years, High Watchmaking has kept increasing its power of attraction. Luxury clients are looking to live more intensely but without conspicuous spending.

Our Maison offers timepieces with unmatched history and content. We are a global brand having clients from around the world shopping in our 78 boutiques. Although we find the markets to be changing faster than in the past our sales remain strong. We are continuing to invest in the development of new design, new watchmaking features. This is what we are known for and will keep doing in the months and years to come.

What’s the strategy you adopt to stay ahead of competition?

Jaeger-LeCoultre is a true watchmaking manufacture. We have a strong control over our production and can therefore quickly adapt ourselves to a changing environment. Most importantly we will try to be even more creative and develop timepieces in tune with our clients’ expectations.

Tell us about Jaeger-LeCoultre and the relation with Film festivals.

Jaeger-LeCoultre’s affinities with the 7th Art stemming from the inherent kinship between two worlds infused with the same creative effervescence, inspired by a longstanding tradition and the absolute quest for excellence. The Venice Film Festival is not the only major artistic event in which Jaeger-LeCoultre plays a key role. The Manufacture has for a decade been closely associated with the most important cinema festivals around the globe. Since 2011, Jaeger-LeCoultre has been a partner of the Shanghai International Film Festival, and helps protect China’s cinematographic heritage by funding restoration of its movie classics. In 2013 Jaeger-LeCoultre launched the Filmmaker in Residence Program in New York as part of the Film Society of Lincoln Center, an initiative that supports New York City filmmakers and their future projects. Committed to supporting filmmaking in all its diversity, Jaeger-LeCoultre is also a proud sponsor of festivals in San Sebastián, Toronto, and Los Angeles.

Tell us about Jaeger-LeCoultre and the Middle East in terms of market importance and performance.

The Middle East region is important for Jaeger-LeCoultre, and we will continue to work hand-in-hand with our partners to develop our activity. We have witnessed an increasing interest in timepieces in the Middle East; this can be seen in the growing number of fairs and shows dedicated to watches. For example, the first edition of the Salon International des Grandes Complications was held for the first time last year in the UAE where the Duometre Unique Travel Time won a distinction as best travel time watch. We will keep on enhancing our point of sale network, not only by opening new boutiques but also by enhancing our current network. We will also continue building ties with our locally based customers through local events such as British Polo Day in Abu Dhabi and Dubai.

We heard that the Reverso might have a new facelift in 2016, is that true? What’s in the pipeline for Jaeger-LeCoultre?

In the year to come we will celebrate the 85th anniversary of our iconic Reverso. We have some very interesting surprises to present to our clients in the coming year, notably in term of ladies design and with some automatic movement to equip our watches… but this is only a few hints… You will find out much more soon.

What’s on your wrist from Jaeger-LeCoultre? And why?

Today I wear the Gyro Tourbillon 3 we have released in 2013, to celebrate our 180 years anniversary. This is one of my personal favourite equipped with a beautiful two-axis tourbillon and a digital chronograph

To what extent you think endorsing a celebrity serves the brand in a way?

Celebrity endorsement is only justified if there is a set of common values shared between the celebrity and the brand. When this is the case then celebrity endorsement does make sense.

In our latest campaign we have decided to feature people who share our value of passion for excellence, hard-work and dedication and with whom we have a long-standing relationship. Carmen Chaplin renowned film-maker, Eduardo Novillo Astrada winner of the Triple Crown, Philippe Jordan master director and Dr Craig Venter decoder of the human genome.

By sharing their stories, these friends of the brand broaden our horizon and reveal its true essence and trigger emotions.

Interviewed by Lara Mansour Sawaya

Tell us about the brand DNA and what sets you apart from other brands?

Every A. Lange & Söhne timepiece is an unmistakable blend of design, technology, materials and craftsmanship, an expression of our drive to create discreet yet distinctive designs and optimal technical solutions. There is a certain German matter-of-factness and solidity, which can be perceived immediately. Every watch is equipped with an in-house movement that features inventive ideas and the highest degree of finishing. One of the key elements of our movements is the three-quarter plate made of untreated German silver, which was introduced by Ferdinand Adolph Lange more than 150 years ago.

What do you think the customers are looking for nowadays and who is your A. Lange & Söhne customer?

Today it may be easy to find a decent watch but harder than ever to find a really special one. This what our customers are looking for and what they finally discover in our timepieces because A. Lange & Söhne is one of the rare manufactories that follows its own path and constantly tries to outperform its own achievements.

Tell us more about the novelties that were presented this year and what caught your attention at SIHH and BASELWORLD. Did you feel there were a lot of new offerings or was it just about enhancements of existing products.

Today’s market for fine mechanical timepieces is perhaps more diversified and fragmented than ever before. In fact, that is only logical as we are catering to an increasingly discerning clientele that regards timepieces as an expression of their personality. As I see it, the market for fine mechanical timepieces is characterised by two main currents: On one hand, there is a strong trend towards traditional watchmaking and classic designs; on the other hand, the race for the most intricate complications will go on. Our portfolio serves both trends.

What do you think are the difficulties that the luxury watch manufacturing is facing today and what are you doing to overcome them?

Lange & Söhne is a performance and innovation driven brand that has defined standards in the field of grand complications. With every launch of a technical innovation the challenges and expectations are growing. However, for the years to come, I have no fear that we are running out of ideas.

To what extent you think having a brand ambassador is crucial for the brand? Do you think endorsing celebrities sells more?

It is a case of horses for courses. What might be suitable for some watch brands does not necessarily work for a brand like A. Lange & Söhne. Our customers are independent-minded personalities who have developed their own style. Many of them could even be role models for others. That makes every owner of our watches an ambassador of the brand. Therefore, we prefer to concentrate on building close personal relationships with the key people in each market.

How is the brand performing in the Middle East, and how can you assess the levels of awareness on the brand?

Middle East markets have been playing an important role for us ever since we opened our first point of sale in the region. GCC countries are characterised by a refined watch culture and still offer huge potential for our brand. The fact that two of our 15 worldwide boutiques are located in Dubai and Abu Dhabi is a clear indication of the region’s potential.

What is in the pipeline for the brand?

As a matter of principle, we do not comment on future developments. Generally speaking, our new developments will extend to all of our five watch families. In keeping with our tradition, we will continue to surprise the watch world with handcrafted timepieces that represent the pinnacle of fine watchmaking and often set milestones in calibre design.

What strategy do you adopt to stay ahead of competition?

Innovation is one of the main pillars of our strategy. By definition, A. Lange & Söhne is a brand that strives to push boundaries. This is perfectly illustrated by exceptional timepieces like the ZEITWERK MINUTE REPEATER, the first wristwatch that combines a mechanical jumping numerals display with a decimal minute repeater.

What is an objective you still aim to achieve?

We have achieved many goals and I know that we will continue to do so in the future. What I am particularly excited about is the inauguration of our new manufactory on 26 August. Next to our premises in Glashütte, we have created an additional floor space of 5,400 square metres and modern workplaces for about 200 watchmakers. Quality assurance and sustainability are our main objectives for building the extension. However, the integration of our new facility into the existing system is an enormous challenge.

What is your say on women that are wearing male watches nowadays?

The majority of our watches are not designed for a specific gender but with a horological issue in mind. Therefore, I am pleased to note that more and more independent, smart and successful women invest in exquisite timepieces and complications. Some of them have made A. Lange & Söhne their preferred brand because our timepieces combine the best of two worlds: handcrafted mechanical excellence and timeless elegance.

Is the large sized watch still in demand or are we back to the medium size?

For some years already, the rule the bigger the better does not apply any more. Classical dimensions are in demand again. This is why, since 2014, we offer the 1815 additionally in a 38.5mm case and why we have reduced the case of the manual wound SAXONIA to a diameter of 35mm.

In a time where smart watches technology is hitting the market, how do you forecast the buying habits in the near future when it comes to classical watches?

Although I notice that impressive progress has been made in the field of wearable devices I must admit that I am not really in a position to assess their market opportunities. It is a different product category aimed at another target audience. However, we are confident that fine mechanical timepieces will maintain their place on the wrist, simply because they fulfil the human desire for distinction, timeless beauty and lasting value.

How would you describe the brand in three words?

Distinctive, ingenious, substantial.

If you were not wearing A. Lange & Söhne what would be a brand that you respect?

There are a few watch manufacturers whose work I appreciate but it would be unfair to name just one. Let me put it in general terms: Any brand that has conquered a good market position by advancing horology through intelligent calibre designs as well a convincing and coherent design language deserves our respect.

Your personal motto?

I have adopted Albert Einstein’s motto “The future interests me far more than the past because I intend to live in it.” It is, by the way, my personal interpretation of our corporate claim to “never stand still”.

Interviewed by Lara Mansour Sawaya

The exhibition will showcase a large collection of artwork

In the presence of Sheikha Bodour bint Sultan Al Qasimi, Chairperson of the Sharjah Investment and Development Authority (Shurooq), Maraya Art Centre opened ‘A Burgeoning Collection’ exhibition on Wednesday evening, September 16.

‘A Burgeoning Collection’ includes works from some thirty local and regional artists and designers, commissioned for Maraya Art Centre alongside other works for 1971 – Design Space at Flag Island in Sharjah.

Following the exhibition’s opening, Sheikha Bodour Al Qasimi toured the exhibition halls in the presence of Sheikha Hoor bint Sultan Al Qasimi, Chairperson of the Sharjah Art Foundation, Sheikh Sultan bin Sooud Al Qasimi, Founder and Chairman of Barjeel Art Foundation, Sheikha Nawar bint Ahmed Al Qasimi, PR and Corporate Communications Officer at Sharjah Art Foundation, Ahmed Obaid Al Qaseer, Chief Operating Officer at (Shurooq), Amani Al Ali, Director of the Executive Office of Sheikha Bodour bint Sultan Al Qasimi, and Giuseppe Moscatello, Director of Maraya Art Centre. Sheikha Bodour met a number of participating artists and was impressed with the various artistic works, which reflect the thriving art scene in the UAE and demonstrate the country’s growing position as a leading regional centre for art and creativity.

Maraya Art Centre’s exhibition ‘A Burgeoning Collection’ will showcase a selection of the works created to date for the centre – including new acquisitions and a range of media, from photography to sculpture, and works commissioned for Maraya Art Centre and 1971 – Design Space. Going forward, Maraya plans to loan out works from its collections to other galleries and institutions with the aim of further developing the arts and culture scene within the region.

Along with the commissioned artwork on display, ‘A Burgeoning Collection’ will also feature works from the Maraya artist in residence Zeinab Al Hashemi, as well as pieces from the Maraya video archive.

The purpose of the exhibition is to celebrate the rich and diverse work produced by thirty artists and designers, all of whom are Emirati, UAE-based or from the wider Gulf area, and many of whom Maraya has supported throughout the early stages of their careers.

President of the watch division at LVMH , CEO of TAG Heuer, Chairman of the board at Hublot and overviewing Zenith, and how challenging is it to wear the many “hats” to look after this massive portfolio and what are the objectives you aim to achieve?

TAG Heuer, Hublot and Zenith are quite different in all aspects. Different in products, prices segment and all three have completely different DNA. All this makes it easy to differentiate them and to keep their identity and DNA. Hublot has a very clear message: “The Art of fusion” bringing tradition and innovation together. Zenith is a very traditional brand and a hidden diamond that we have to shape for the light to come out. It’s a phenomenal brand, but still totally unexploited. By contrast, TAG Heuer is avant-garde, with technology, design, materials, and even a connected watch. TAG Heuer is very strong in the price range of CHF2,000-5,000, – the very best and unbeatable price relation for the quality offered! At the end, like an orchestra’s conductor, I make sure that all the different instruments play in harmony.

In your opinion, what struggles the Swiss luxury manufacturers are facing today, and how do you assess the watchmaking industry?

The Swiss Watch Industry is very well positioned to double its turnover by 2030. I see big growth for watches among the new generation, thanks to the promotion done by the computer companies with their connected watches. And I also see big growth in the accessible luxury watch segment made for the middle class. I believe that among many elements, probably the most important one is the reputation and credibility of the Swiss Made. The Swiss industry have maintained quality, reliability, accuracy, service, innovation, R&D, investments and strong distribution and marketing networks for decades. Thanks to these cumulative efforts, they have been able to increase the importance and dominance of Swiss Made in the luxury segment where my brands are.

What do you think customers are looking for nowadays?

Good value for your money. Quality, reliability, innovation, service and prestige or status symbol.

What caught your attention at SIHH and BaselWorld this year? Did you see any novelties or the majority were just repetitions and enhancements?

I am very excited by the new materials and there is happening so much in the R&D of new materials. Developing new materials, ultra-light weight performances – even for the movement – will also lead us to new properties and new colours of a watch. In metallurgy you have incredible inventions every month. It is a very active field as it is the base of many industries. I hope we will invent one day the transparent metal….(imagine an ultra light transparent 18K gold watch).

TAG Heuer this year had a new communication message “Don’t crack under pressure”, what was the reason for this sort of re-positioning and appealing to a younger customer?

TAG Heuer logo and statement says: “Swiss Avant Garde since 1860” which means that we have to be connected to the future and to the young generation. That’s where TAG Heuer has build its success and that’s where we have to concentrate our efforts and investments. We are not giving up the upper segment, but are putting more efforts and innovation in our core business which is the more affordable luxury for younger generations. It’s an important market, because 1) it is a big market and beside this, 2) it is the market of tomorrow. As a consequence you have a double effect if you address to the “under 30”. You speak to those who can already be your customer and you speak also to those who might become your next customers. To speak simultaneously to your “customer of today” and “customer of tomorrow” is certainly the most profitable strategy for your communication expenses.

Can you name some faces you’d like to have as potential friends of the brand?

I don’t know yet! We have to talk in a language that is understood by the new generation. We have to adapt our communication and message to the customer. This is the reason why TAG Heuer has chosen Cara Delevigne, Cristiano Ronaldo or David Guetta and Garrix as brand ambassadors. Because they speak to this young generation and has credibility among them. Yes, we will definitively come out with new partnerships according to our communication platforms which are:

a)Sports, b)Art, c)Lifestyle, d) Swissness.

In addition to this first segmentation, I also choose the ambassador according to his relation with the brand. An ambassador that has just a business relation with us, is not worth keeping or selecting. The human relation is as important as the business relation.

As a president of the LVMH watch division, can you give us an idea on the performance of the group’s brands, and in specific TAG Heuer.

My vision is clearly and simply for what TAGHeuer stands since ever: “Swiss Avant Garde since 1860” We have to be in the front of innovation and creativity. We must continue to be the trendsetter and never be a follower. The brand is strong, and remains the most important pillar of the LVMH watch portfolio.

What’s in the pipeline for TAG Heuer for the Middle East and Globally?

TAG Heuer has strongly developed its retail presence in the Middle-East in the past few years. But the region is still less than [15%] of our turnover which shows how much growth potential we have in the region. From that point of view, it is certainly an advantage or an opportunity at least. Arab clientele have a great taste for fine watches, they are connoisseurs and they have been loving watches for more than two centuries. We still have a very important “catch up” program to achieve, and we are however looking for quality distribution, service and sales rather than just turnover.

How do you think the industry is heading with the smart watch technology?

It might split the industry in two. On one side the “eternity” heritage from the Art of making watches, which are watches that will be working and be repairable in 1000 or more years! And on the other hand, we might have the “obsolete” which are all the technology watches born from an industrial process and condemned to become obsolete when the process is changed or improved. Those two trends, eternity and obsolete, will never compete one against each other, but are rather complementary. As TAG Heuer, we couldn’t ignore the trend of the smart watch. It’s an opportunity for us and we must adapt to the tastes of a younger generation. Especially as we have an entry price into our luxury brand around 1’200 $. The brand claims to be “Avant Garde” since 1860. Considering this and considering our core range, we believe that we are best positioned to enter the connected watch.

For TAG Heuer, what’s the strategy you adopt to stay ahead of competition?

However successful a brand might have been, it always will need from time to time an adjustment in order to stay connected to its DNA and message. We are not doing anything different than this, just giving more input, more creativity, more innovation in our core business. TAG Heuer’s main business and leader price segment has been around 3’000$ for the past several years. One can conclude that the core business of TAG Heuer has been in a range from 2’000$ to 5’000$. It’s only in a recent past, that the brand has done major efforts in products, innovation, creativity and advertising in the 5’000$ + price range. We will maintain the development in the +5’000$, but will again devote more than 60% innovation, creativity, products and communication in our core business range. What we are doing is a shift back to basics and to the core business where we are leaders and want to reinforce our leadership.

How do you spend your free time?

With my family.

What’s your personal motto?

I always try to be “First, Different and Unique”. Any project, product, concept or idea that comes to me, it must fit to those requests. It must be the first, it must be unique, it must be different. If you have passion for your job, you will stay connected 24 hours to your passion. Whatever you see, whatever you hear or whatever your dreams at night are, you are constantly connecting them to your job and that’s mostly how I get my inspiration. It can come during a Marathon, but also during a nap in Summer Time in St. Tropez. Innovation, creativity, passion are a permanent stage which like Love never leaves your brain, your heart and your blood.

If you were to give an advise to a customer when investing in a watch, what would it be?

To be guided for what you like first, and not only a financial investment. Watches are about emotion.

TAG Heuer in 3 words?

Best value in prestige, quality and innovation for money

Interviewed by Lara Mansour Sawaya

Tell us more about the design DNA of Dior timepieces, and what sets you apart from other watch brands.

The Dior timepieces vehicle the idea of the Dior Haute Couture and Ready-to-Wear which means a combination of timeless elegance, extreme craftsmanship and innovative ideas as well as a more daywear wardrobe expressing the colours and the modernity of the season.

You’ve been with Dior since 2008. How did it feel to become President , and what’s an objective you are still aiming to achieve?

My main challenge was to put the timepieces in line with the other activities of the house. The Dior VIII Grand Bal collection represents the idea I had of a timepieces collection at Dior: thanks to the development of our Dior inverted calibre which places a functional oscillating weight on top of the dial, but, before all, allowing our Parisian studio to create new designs every year and in line with the heritage of Mr Dior who was passionate about balls. Indeed, the oscillating weight represents the swirl of a ball gown so it had to look like a ball petticoat (being open-worked, set, made of feathers and made in lace).

What do you think customers are looking for nowadays and who is the Dior Timepieces customer?

Customers are looking for audacity, refinement and sincerity. The Dior Timepieces customer is mostly a woman, buying a piece for herself after a love at first sight.

Tell us more about the Basel novelties and how the collection was received.

2015 is a turning point for us, because more than ever, we are proposing haute couture pieces through all our Dior VIII Grand Bal watches (limited editions and one-of a kind) and Dior Grand Soir (only one-of-a-kind) but also new ready-to-wear pieces through a new seasonal Dior VIII Montaigne collection in phase with the outfits of the show and new audacious La Mini D de Dior.

Clients were really and particularly receptive to the following novelties:

Dior VIII Grand Bal “Fil d’or” (88 ex limited edition) which was born from the collaboration with one of the last French bobin lace-maker.

Dior VIII Grand Bal “Cancan” (88 ex limited edition) whose feather oscillating weight dances on a 2 raws feather dial.

Dior VIII Grand Bal Pièce Unique “Envol” (one-of-a-kind pieces) whose scarab beetle marquetry mixed with an hypnotic oscillating weight vehicule the modernity of Raf Simon’s couture collections

Dior Grand Soir “Frou Frou” (one-of-a-kind pieces) whose sophisticated 3D dials evoke ribbons, ruffles and fabrics…

Dior VIII Montaigne Spring Summer and Fall Winter whose combinations of colours are so close to Raf Simons’ ready-to-wear collections

La Mini D de Dior whose degrade colours bring a rainbow effect around the wrist.

Chiffre Rouge C05 (the only masculine collection) who is equipped with a Zenith 682 Elite for a dual timezone.

How do you assess the luxury watchmaking industry now in comparison with the last 5 years? What are the obstacles and challenges that you are facing?

This industry is facing a re-birth thanks to the arrival of connected watches. Ultimate timepieces won’t be challenged in the future because we don’t care they give time. People buy them for the beauty of the piece. For our affordable lines: we have to be different.

What’s the strategy you adopt to stay ahead of competition?

Stay the same proposing exclusive pieces in phase with the couture universe and bring fresh air into the more affordable timepiece business thanks to a seasonal rythm. Being part of a House like Dior allows us to imagine our timepieces as a complete wardrobe.

To what extent the fact that your relationship with the customer, at some level, is greater than just an economic transaction? Do you believe that luxury is an emotion?

Yes definitely. When you buy a Dior timepiece, you buy a part of the universe that is translated in our piece. Can you imagine another House asking a lace-maker to create a very important part of the movement (the oscillating weight)? We made it and this kind of collaboration is what we like. When you buy a Dior VIII Montaigne Spring Summer 2015, you can feel the atmosphere of a Dior show. You don’t only buy a Dior timepiece, you buy the Dior Spirit.

Tell us about the synergy between the fashion design and the timepieces design?

Our studio is based in Avenue Montaigne and works also for other lines with Raf Simons so they are really well informed of what is going on in the House. This allows us to be very reactive to create seasonal collections. Indeed, till the last moment before the show, an outfit can be cancelled so we absolutely need to study the feasibility beforehand but we need also to be very fast in production right after the show, having in mind that the production rythms for RTW and Timepieces are absolutely not the same.

To what extent you believe endorsing a celebrity serves the brands performance in terms of selling?

Charlize Theron was our ambassadress for the launch of Dior VIII. Of course it creates an immediate impact, especially with such an actress. But after, the House is strong enough to promote the line by itself.

What are the couture codes that we can see in the Dior timepieces?

We are translating couture in different manners:

• The Design of all our Dior VIII Grand Bal oscillating weights representing pleats, plumetis, embroideries, lace… the design of our dials especially in the Dior Grand Soir collection (3D Frou-Frou dials, Origami dials…)

• The Material. The feathers oscillating weights for Dior VIII Grand Bal “Cancan”, the pleated satin straps for Dior Grand Soir.

• The same idea of modernity in Raf Simons designs, you will see in the Dior VIII Grand Bal Piece Unique “Envol”.

• The fact that our “linings” are really refined as well (lacquered oscillating weights, crystal sapphire glass, label inside the strap).

• The colours of the collections in line with the colours used at Dior.

What’s in the pipeline for Dior timepieces?

You will discover it during next Baselworld Fair.

What’s your personal motto?

Are you sure we cannot make it ? Let’s try.

What’s on your wrist from Dior watches?

A Dior VIII Grand Bal Plissé soleil, La D de Dior 19mm or a Chiffre Rouge sand colour, depending on the days.

Interviewed by Lara Mansour Sawaya

Authentic Watchmaking Sculpture

Harmony Dual Time Caliber 2460DT

Harmony is a contemporary collection par excellence, intended to house new Manufacture movements and unusual complications, designed to meet the demands of a lifestyle in perpetual motion. Firmly in tune with the times, the dual time function is one of the most useful and most sought- after complications among both men and women. To meet these expectations, the Manufacture Vacheron Constantin has developed and produced the new self-winding Caliber 2460DT dedicated to this must-have function. Three new references, two for men and one for women, are equipped with this new movement driving the hours, minutes, seconds along with dual time and day/night indications. To further improve the user friendliness of this timepiece in any situation, this elaborate movement incorporates a remarkable innovation: all settings may be done by the crown in both directions, without any risk of damaging the mechanism. This caliber comprises a special stop seconds device ensuring a more accurate time display. Moreover, the ribbed crown also ensures smooth and easy handling.

Like all creations from Harmony, these three new timepieces are certified by the Hallmark of Geneva, a guarantee of provenance, craftsmanship, durability and expertise. Presented to mark Vacheron Constantin’s 260th anniversary and issued in limited series on this occasion, the Dual Time and Dual Time Small model feature an oscillating weight adorned with a commemorative motif forming delicate scrolling patterns.

Harmony Tourbillon Chronograph Caliber 3200  

Elegant, fascinating, prestigious, precious: the Harmony Tourbillon Chronograph by Vacheron Constantin comprises an impressive number of assets. Powered by the new hand-winding Vacheron Constantin Caliber 3200, this remarkable timepiece joins the Harmony collection designed to accommodate medium complication and grande complication movements, to the delight of collectors and informed connoisseurs. Combining the elegance of the monopusher chronograph with the prestige of a stunning tourbillon shaped like the Maltese Cross, this exceptional new model is issued in a highly exclusive series of 26 individually numbered timepieces. Housed in a precious 950 platinum case, Vacheron Constantin Caliber 3200 bearing the Hallmark of Geneva features a bridge hand-engraved with delicate scrolling patterns. Specially created by the brand designers to set apart the exclusive series dedicated to the 260th anniversary of the Manufacture, this original motif, also known as “fleurisanne engraving”, is inspired by the arabesques adorning the balance-cock on the oldest pocket watch belonging to the Maison and signed by Jean-Marc Constantin in 1755.

Hourstriker Oil Pump Shines in Gold

The latest edition to the Exceptional Collection, the Ulysse Nardin Hourstriker Oil Pump is a timepiece that honours industry. Adorned and delicately hand-engraved in gold, and enameled in black, the dial is one of significance, depicting the magnitude of oil fields and the harmonic rhythm of their oil pumps at work, unearthing fuel to power the world. A limited edition of 18 pieces in rose gold and 18 pieces in platinum, the Hourstriker Oil Pump is a force all its own. The realism of the dial imagery and its influence give it a potent allure, its detail so precise that you feel as if you could step inside and be engulfed by the scene. The timekeepers appear even more lifelike, for the arms of the oil pumps are Jaquemarts. These animated figures move up and down in concert with the sound of a gong striking the hours – on the hour and on request. The oil pumps move in sync with the hammer hitting the gong. Although a very complex mechanism, the Hourstriker is simple for its wearers to function. The striking mechanism can be activated or deactivated by simply pressing pusher one. When the striking indicator is pointing towards the hour glass (on the left), the striking is deactivated; if aimed towards the point, the striking mechanism is activated.

Lady Diver Starry Night

Appearing exquisite in any situation, the Lady Diver Starry Night’s fresh aesthetic is one where her maritime history is fully celebrated. The unidirectional turning bezel, another feature of the collection, as well as the rubber strap are edged with what appears to be cresting waves that seem to rhythmically rise and fall as if affected by the gravitational forces of the sun and moon. 29 circling diamonds sparkle on the black or white mother-of-pearl dial pronounced by 12 diamonds on the bezel marking the hours and by more than 30 of this precious gemstone nuzzled between the lugs.

Musical Marvel Delights on the Hour, on Request with Vivaldi Melody.

Ulysse Nardin delighted high horology enthusiasts in 2013 with the introduction of “Stranger”. A marvel timepiece, it married movement and design with music, playing a rendition of Strangers in the Night. In its second release, the in-house developed, self-winding, musical mechanical watch performs the Vivaldi melody, Violin Concerto in E. Best known for his violin concertos, Four Seasons, famed Baroque composer Vivaldi’s brilliance is bestowed on this limited edition of 99 pieces crafted from 18-karat rose gold 5N. This new timepiece is a symbol of the harmonious melding of tradition and technology. Based on the Ulysse Nardin caliber 690 using silicium technology, the timekeeper is not only easy to operate, but it also takes wearers down the reminiscent road of childhood. Its muse: a classical music box. Within, it’s as if a music box has been whittled down and flattened to supercharge this superb timepiece. On the hour and on request, owners can enjoy listening to this cheerful and soothing Vivaldi melody.

Set Sail with New Kruzenshtern Enamel Timepiece

Saluting the wondrous world of maritime history, Ulysse Nardin honours the Kruzenshtern in its new Classico Collection limited-edition enamel cloisonné timepiece. Built in Germany in 1926 and originally known as the Padua, the barque, tall ship with its four masts was given to the USSR in 1946 as war reparation, and was integrated into the Soviet Baltic Fleet. Consequently, she was renamed Kruzenshtern after the 19th century Baltic German explorer in Russian service, Adam Johann Krusenstern. Her missions, journeys and services are vast, and today, she operates primarily as a training ship. To accurately portray her real-time appearance, Ulysse Nardin employed the intensely intricate enamel cloisonné technique – a discipline deeply valued by the manufacturer and its collectors. In this method, opaque or translucent colours are derived by mixing proportions of elements to achieve specific combinations, often kept a secret.

Makes a Splash with New Addition to Black Sea Collection

Embracing its rich oceanic history as a master creator of timepieces for diving and sailing, Ulysse Nardin reveals its latest model in the Black Sea line of watches. Carrying on the characteristics of the family, the Black Sea is highly durable with an athletic structure presenting a stainless steel case coated with vulcanized rubber. The vulcanization process enhances the timepiece’s comfort and flexibility, but moreover, its ability to withstand the most extreme conditions. Proven in function and reliability, the self-winding timepiece also shows a serious sense of style. Sporty in nature, its black tone with blue and gold accents provides a refined essence that can easily transform from wet suit to dining attire. It is both a state-of-the-art diving instrument and a representation of great design.

Timeless Style and Artisan Details

T01 is the first Trussardi watches collection launched in preview in November 2014. The two Italian companies Trussardi and Morellato Group, both famous for their artisan workmanship, have established a partnership for the design and production of new Trussardi timepieces. The T01 collection is composed by ten men’s watches and eight women’s watches, all Swiss-made and water resistant up to 10 atm, with anti-reflective sapphire glass and hand-engraved steel. Elegance, dynamism and experimentation, on one hand, and great skill and innovation in watch-making, on the other, have led to the creation of watches with sleek, subtle design, enriched with precious elements and details that reflect the style of the brand of the Greyhound.

The understated and refined ladies’ watch collection features bracelet watches with a butterfly clasp and push button and watches with a leather watch band and prong buckle, which is a signature detail of Trussardi accessories. The 36 mm case has a double level and distinctive oval shape reminiscent of the Trussardi logo. The dials reflect the style of the brand through different elements and symbols such as the Greyhound at 12 o’clock or the historical print designed over 100 years ago for the lining of Trussardi trunks. Style and experimentation can also be found in the combination of colours and materials. Steel is paired up with a refined dusty blue dial, while a black crocodile leather watch band adds a distinctive touch to an elegant rose gold and diamond case. Strong colour is the choice for versions with a yellow or rose gold PVD finish or with a soft baby blue finish and leather watch band.

Careful attention to detail is also a distinctive sign of the men’s watch collection with dynamic style and a strong character. Like the ladies’ watches, the 44 mm case has the typical Trussardi oval shape and comes in shiny and brushed metal finishes.

A screw-back case and screw-on crown, applied indexes, and a universal calendar are the main characteristics of Trussardi T01 Gent timepieces that are available in simple watch or chronograph versions with a bracelet or watch band, always with a butterfly clasp with push button. References to the stylistic elements of the brand are strong, such as the Trussardi herringbone motif on the dial and the instantly recognizable Greyhound on the seconds hand or on the dial at six o’clock. Trussardi’s effortless elegance and timeless style are in evidence in more sporty models with a top-stitched leather watch band available in military green or dark brown or in an unusual GMT version for true globetrotters. With the launch of this first watch collection, Trussardi – which is synonymous of effortless elegance and understated luxury, combined with great traditions – and Morellato Group, a point of reference in the watch market, want to celebrate Italian excellence around the world. The new Trussardi timepieces express the heritage of over a century and the typical Italian manufacturing knowhow of the two companies.

This determination to aim for essentials results in lines distinguished by their elementary sobriety, expressed through the slenderness of a case. The broad dial opening immediately draws the gaze, while the design of the lugs forms a right angle. The extreme simplicity of this watch conveys a movement towards essentials in a rigorous, beautifully balanced manner. Slim d’Hermès, designed by Philippe Delhotal, Creative Director of La Montre Hermès, testifies to the graphic approach of the house through the original typography created by Philippe Apeloig* to mark the hours.

The light, airy outline of the numerals imparts a gives time a pleasing cadence. A quartz movement drives the 32 mm and 25 mm models, while new colours enrich the range of alligator straps: blackcurrant, cloud white and sapphire blue, alongside ember, Etruscan, elephant grey and ultraviolet options.

The wristband is also available in box calf, Barenia leather strap or steel bracelet versions. Slim d’Hermès appears in rose gold or steel variations, with or without diamond settings. When adorned in rose gold, the watch is graced with a guilloché dial in white natural mother-of-pearl, while the brand’s ex-libris motif appears on the back of the case. Whether mechanical symphony or artistic composition,

Slim d’Hermès delivers its supremely pure definition of time, symbolising a return to the fundamentals of the watchmaking art.

Velvet Haute Couture

A daring trilogy interpreting the glamorous spirit of the Diva

Precious and exclusive Haute Horlogerie is a theatre in which the Manufacture Roger Dubuis has every intention of playing a starring role – not least by its gift for dramatic stage entrances such as those being made by its three new Velvet Haute Couture limited editions. Each of these exquisite creations – Velvet Mink Fur, Velvet Corsetry and Velvet Passementerie – illustrates an evocative facet of the Diva that lives in every woman. Each also enlists exclusive hand-crafted skills and talents exercised by the finest exponents of their respective arts: ornamental trimming specialists, leather artisans interpreting corsetry; and expert tailor furriers. Delightfully complementing the watchmaking and jewellery expertise cultivated by Roger Dubuis, these artisans meet demanding criteria entirely worthy of a Manufacture that ensures its entire production meets the uncompromisingly high standards imposed by the Poinçon de Genève.

All members of the charismatic Velvet collection from Roger Dubuis show a certain number of family likenesses that contribute to its potent charm: trompe l’oeil cases subtly associating tonneau and circular shapes; finely decorated lugs including a ‘third’ that becomes precious link and key decorative element; tapering hand-applied Roman numerals converging towards the centre; along with mesmerising depth effects created by split-level dial construction. Taken together, they create a dressy, sophisticated and eminently feminine look that appeals to contemporary “femmes fatales”…Women who are fully aware of their seductive powers and attracted to glamorous designs and ultra-feminine materials, yet who are also drawn towards timepieces with a mechanical heart such as the self-winding RD821 calibre setting the pace for these three Velvet Haute Couture 88-piece limited editions.

Velvet Haute Couture Mink Fur: the exclusive aura of mink-clad elegance

Diva will admit to a weakness for fur, with its connotations of warmth, softness and luxury. The emblematic bluish-black shimmer of the genuine sheared mink fur strap securing this Velvet Haute Couture model provides a perfect backdrop for the pure gleam of the white gold case, as well as the radiance of the Full Pavé setting created with 496 brilliant-cut diamonds (totalling 4.34 cts) adorning the bezel, case middle, lugs, dial…and even the white gold adjustable folding buckle.

Crafted by the famous furrier and fashion designer Daniel Benjamin Geneva, a family enterprise currently run by the third generation of a dynasty that has achieved worldwide recognition for its peerless expertise, the exceptional nature of this strap infuses this jewellery timepiece with an undeniably Haute Couture spirit. The very kind of ultimate attention to details that characterises Roger Dubuis timepieces, ensuring they are beautiful from every possible angle and earning them the right to bear the exclusive Poinçon de Genève, is echoed in the impeccable quality of the fur and the sophisticated craftsmanship exercised on the mink fur in order to ensure perfectly smooth integration with the distinctive outlines of the case and lugs. The innovative dial design with its central tonneau-shaped décor is accentuated by double sapphire crystals: one bearing the distinctive metallized Roman numerals and covering the diamond paving beneath; and another encasing the hands and effectively “sealing” the watch. And because even Divas sometimes need options and practical yet equally appealing alternatives for daytime wear, the Manufacture Roger Dubuis also delivers this dazzling timepiece with a shiny black alligator leather strap.

Velvet Haute Couture Corsetry: sensual curves revisited

Despite changing whims and fashion cycles, there is no mistaking the fact that the hourglass figures and corsets, the emblematic figure-enhancing items of lingerie historically associated with highlighting feminine curves, continue to exercise an enduring appeal on women themselves… as well as on all those who admire them. Just as few can resist the charms of the Diva according to Roger Dubuis, she too is not immune to the allure of ribbons, laces and sensually structured garments. And when a timepiece so effectively captures the spirit of corsetry in a model with such a glamorous exterior, beating to the tune of its reliable mechanical self-winding movement, it is easy to see why it would appeal to women who have it all – and who naturally expect the very best in all respects.

Manufacture Roger Dubuis naturally turned to Les Artisans Selliers – leading Swiss specialists in high-end straps and leather goods dedicated to excellence in their own domain of fine craftsmanship – to create the unmistakable ‘corset-style’ strap for one of its three Velvet Haute Couture limited editions. Hugging the wrist just as a corset embraces voluptuous feminine curves, the intricately detailed Corset strap features elaborate black lacing creating a striking contrast with the surrounding smooth calfskin leather in a delicate flesh-pink shade echoing that of classic soft ballet shoes.

The dial centre of this stunningly original creation is paved with 162 brilliant cut diamonds, framed by a silver-toned satin sunburst exterior bearing the signature Velvet Roman numerals in black or pink gold picking up the colours of the 36 mm case and the strap, while the bezel, lugs and décor are also embellished by refined gem-setting with diamonds of the finest water. The overall effect is one of unmistakable, quintessential femininity, infused with the kind of original twist and unexpected accents that have become a hallmark of timepieces from the Manufacture. Never forgetting that variety is the spice of life, Roger Dubuis also offers divas an additional blushing pink genuine alligator leather strap.

Velvet Haute Couture Passementerie: the irresistible allure of glamorous stockings

The wardrobe of any self-respecting Diva is liable to contain any number of silky soft stockings, including a few pairs of fishnet models that set the perfect finishing touch to a sophisticated outfit, whether worn with a favourite Little Black Dress or a slim-fitting pencil skirt. The Manufacture Roger Dubuis now gives women a chance to channel their inner Diva all the way to their wrist with an extravagantly elegant Haute Couture model teamed with its very own Fishnet Stocking strap.

Highlighting the traditional art of trimmings (passementerie) as exemplified by the venerable Parisian house of Declercq, which has exercised its skills in such prestigious settings as the Louvre and Versailles, this subtle beige-toned strap is delicately sheathed in a beautifully crafted silk thread fishnet pattern finished with a beautifully braided trim evoking a perfect stocking top. The warm grey of the fishnet picks up the shade of the ruthenium-treated dial with its brushed centre and satin sunburst exterior, graced by the pink gold hues of the applied Roman numerals.

Adding the perfect precious touches to a model that is the very picture of elegance and excellence, 1.66 cts of brilliant-cut diamonds adorn the bezel of the 36 mm pink gold case, as well as the distinctive lugs, the décor and the matching pink gold adjustable folding clasp. And since every woman loves to change stockings for a different feel and effect, Manufacture Roger Dubuis offers them an additional shiny taupe alligator strap that can be worn anytime, anywhere.

RM 011 Black Night Edition worn by Richard Mille Motorsport Partners

 Richard Mille motorsport partners Felipe Massa, Sebastian Loeb and Martin Brundle all have in common that they are wearing one of the new RM 011 Black Night editions. This watch is the latest exceptional timepiece bearing the initials F.M. and comes in a Limited Edition of just 100 pieces, available only at Richard Mille Boutiques in Europe and the Middle East.

The RM 011 Black Night features a case made entirely of lightweight NTPT® Carbon with a high contrast red flange and black detailing on the skeletonised dial. The piece is powered by a skeletonised automatic Flyback chronograph with hours, minutes and seconds, 60-minute countdown timer, 12 hour totalizer, oversize date and month.

The Formula 1 season begins for Felipe and Martin in Melbourne, Australia on March 13-15th. Sebastien begins his season in the World Touring Car Championship from 6-8th March in Termas de Río Hondo, Argentina and he will continue to wear the RM 36-01 Tourbillon G-Sensor when competing.

RM 19-02 TOURBILLON FLEUR

No one can debate the hundreds of years of  that we all appreciate today. Yet, many will be unaware of the refined and equally age-old Swiss tradition regarding the creation of mimetic mechanical objects of art that imitate nature, thus blurring the dividing lines between artistic creativity and life itself. This idea of being able to capture the very substance of life using mechanical means was born during the Age of Reason, motivated by the concepts presented by philosophers in their attempts to comprehend the mysterious inner workings of nature.

In this manner exquisite miniature animal, insect and flower automata of all kinds were created in precious metals and lacquer work to amuse and delight royal patrons in Europe and around the globe. The new RM 19-02 Tourbillon Fleur epitomizes these traditions of horological artistry in a vibrant expression of watchmaking distinctive to Richard Mille’s vision of timekeeping in the 21st century. For the creation of this timepiece a special flower, the Magnolia, was chosen as its existence marks millions of years on the earth even before the emergence of bees within the environment, flowering in an endless cycle of birth and regeneration. The Magnolia’s delicate appearance stands in sharp contrast to its strong organic structure and resilience in difficult environments.

At the lower left of the dial on the RM 19-02 we see the Magnolia surrounding a flying tourbillon escapement with five delicate, hand created and coloured petals. Working either in passing, or on demand using the pusher at 9 o’clock, the Magnolia opens and closes with rhythmic regularity in a delicate kinetic ballet. However, if you look very closely, you will see that Richard Mille chose to imitate nature in the most exquisitely extreme manner possible…..The Magnolia does not just open, the entire flying tourbillon with its stone set stamen actually moves upwards 1mm when fully opened, exactly copying the natural motion of the flower’s arching upwards of its stamen to increase its chances of pollination. Attention to details such as these exemplify the Richard Mille approach to watchmaking artistry on every level.

For those interested in the technical mastery behind this unique grade 5 titanium tourbillon caliber, a complex mechanism comprising 5 levers surrounds the underside of the petals, and yet another system combined with a long pinion is used to raise the flying tourbillon and stamen upwards within the flower’s circumference – all using energy supplied by a separate, second winding barrel. As an added attention to the tiniest details, it is even possible to adjust the opening and closing cycle The RM 19-02 Fleur is limited to a production of 30 pieces worldwide.

For the first time in the history of the Altiplano collection, Piaget treats these ultra-thin timepieces to a gold bracelet and unveils six refined interpretations at the SIHH 2015. Designed for both men and women, the new range encompasses pink and white gold versions in two different diameters and fitted with a polished or gem-set bezel. Its style will inspire casual-chic aesthetes for whom elegance is a natural part of daily living.

With Altiplano, Piaget created an icon with a powerful identity: pure lines, an understated dial graced with extremely slim double or single baton-type hour-markers swept over by slender hands. At the SIHH 2015, the legend is transformed into a chic, urban must-have, as the Maison offers six new Altiplano watches with their first-ever polished gold bracelet.

This new collection beats to the rhythm of a Manufacture Piaget 534P mechanical self-winding movement, signalled by the word “Automatic” appearing on the opaline white dial. This calibre drives indications of the hours and minutes and enjoys a 42-hour power reserve. Like all movements from the Manufacture de Haute Horlogerie Piaget, its finishes are executed in keeping with the finest watchmaking traditions and feature circular Côtes de Genève, a circular-grained mainplate and bevelled bridges.

The traditional mechanism is ideally matched by the contemporary identity of the Altiplano collection. Its pure design combines up-to-the-minute chic with timeless elegance. Piaget was duty bound to interpret this iconic collection with a gold bracelet, a Fine Watchmaking classic. This elegant and urban new Altiplano, available in 34 mm and 38 sizes, is equally suited to men and women. The supple feel of the bracelet ensures a perfectly comfortable fit for all models, while its graceful curves smoothly extend the harmonious case aesthetic and understated dial. Ideal ergonomics, soft lines and an integrated clasp all contribute to its refined nature. The white gold versions feature a gem-set bezel, while the pink gold variations have a more restrained, polished bezel.

Right from the time of its launch in 1998, the creative freedom and technical virtuosity manifested in the Altiplano propelled it the rank of watchmaking icon. The six new models on gold bracelets now enrich this collection radiating a multi-facetted contemporary charm.

 A highlight of the summer, the Tonda 1950 joins the world of high fashion with a stunning collection of straps

The palette of colours shimmers like a flag fluttering in the wind. Fresh or subtle, they set the tone for the summer season. And with good reason! These new straps have been designed to bring new vibrancy to the Tonda 1950, a model famed for its fluid lines, uncluttered dial and elegant gold case, and one which embodies Parmigiani Fleurier’s expertise in watchmaking. These straps reflect the same commitment to high standards. This is demonstrated by the suppleness and comfort of the leathers selected, the quality of the stitching and the warmth of the lining, which has been chosen with great care.

Two materials, two structures. On the one hand, chic alligator with scales which vary in size to match the Manufacture’s desired style. On the other, calfskin, smooth or stamped using a process which marks the leather, giving a colour print for a very on-trend effect.

This technique is beautifully illustrated by one of the straps in the collection, which sports a stunning pixellated pattern like a butterfly’s wing. On a black background, the strap is partially overlaid with silver, and then flecked with green and a vibrant fuchsia. The metallic hints turn the Tonda 1950 into a pop chic classic, a role it assumes with great aplomb.

The Summer collection also includes calfskin straps in two intense shades: radiant coral and lime green. For this, the Manufacture selected leather of a remarkable quality, with a very fine grain. The almost silky feel of this velvety strap against the wrist makes it an immense pleasure to wear every day.

Finally, the couture collection’s It-strap is made from alligator, a material which marries exoticism and sophistication like no other. The collection is available in khaki – this year’s colour – with large scales for a strong, masculine look which is bound to seduce. The pink or purple alligator versions offer a very different style, with fine scales and a high-gloss finish to ensure their feminine appeal. Guaranteed to bring out the radiance of any summer tan!

In anticipation of Spectre the 24th James Bond film scheduled to release in 2015, OMEGA has created a limited edition Seamaster Aqua Terra 150M model inspired by the Bond family coat of arms. The symbol is repeatedly interlocked to create a dynamic pattern on the watch’s blue dial. The coat of arms is also found near the tip of the yellow central seconds hand.

Among the most striking elements of this 41.5 mm stainless steel timepiece is the oscillating weight of the movement visible through the sapphire crystal caseback. This component has been cut and shaped to resemble a gun barrel, a design feature associated with James Bond. Powered by the completely new Omega Master Co-Axial calibre 8507, this timepiece is resistant to magnetic fields of 15,000 gauss. The timepiece is presented on a stainless steel bracelet and will be produced in an edition limited to 15,007 pieces. It is delivered with a full four-year warranty.

Extending the ceramic Speedmaster legacy: The Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon collection

Rhapsodized, romanticized and analysed, the Moon has always enchanted us. This celestial body, whose surface has been explored by only twelve human beings, continues to be magical and alluring. Although they have been scientifically explained, its phases and craters remain mysterious. It was the adventures and the accomplishments of the Apollo 8 astronauts that inspired the all-black, ceramic Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon, but it is the mystique of the Earth’s nightlight and its ever-changing yet constant presence that has spurred the creation of four new OMEGA timepieces that are now part of the collection: Black Black, Sedna Black, Pitch Black and Vintage Black.

The Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon “Black Black” has a polished and brushed black ceramic casebody, a matt black ceramic dial and a black ceramic clasp on a black coated nylon fabric strap. Giving this model its nickname are its brushed blackened Moonwatch-style hands and blackened applied indexes – all of which are coated with black Super-LumiNova. The familiar sub-dials at 3 and 9 o’clock are also matt black and the black ceramic bezel has a black lacquered tachymeter scale.

Combining OMEGA’s ceramic technology with its exclusive rose gold alloy, the Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon “Sedna Black” has a completely brushed black ceramic case with an 18K Sedna™ gold bezel ring which matches the 18K Sedna™ gold applied indexes and hands. The marks on the matt grey dial have been created using laser ablation. “Vintage” Super-LumiNova coats the central hour, minute and gold-plated chronograph seconds hands as well as the indexes and the two dots at 12 o’clock. This timepiece is presented on a black leather strap with a brushed ceramic foldover clasp.

The Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon “Pitch Black” is distinguished by the Super-LumiNova that coats the indexes on its matt black ceramic dial. The ceramic timepiece has a polished and brushed casebody and a brushed ceramic bezel with a tachymeter scale also in Super-LumiNova. The matt black sub-dials have varnished hands. The “Pitch Black” is presented on a black leather strap with ecru stitching and a ceramic foldover clasp.

OMEGA introduces the stunning De Ville Prestige Dewdrop

An elegant timepiece gets a new look inspired by our Fine Jewellery collection. The De Ville Prestige collection has long been distinguished by its sophisticated style. Featuring understated dials, state-of-the-industry movements and timelessly fashionable designs, this watch family is aptly named. And with the introduction of the newest ladies’ models, which combine elegant fine jewellery with precise timekeeping, the collection appeals to a new generation of fashion-forward style icons.

The De Ville Prestige stands out with its jewellery bracelet, inspired by the OMEGA Fine Jewellery Dewdrop collection. Dewdrop-shaped beads crafted from 18K red or yellow gold come together to form a glamorous, fluid bracelet. The five-link bracelet has a butterfly clasp. This gorgeous timepiece is available in two sizes – 32.7 mm and 27.4 mm – and is fashioned from either 18K red or yellow gold. There are also two variations of the dial: one style is created from pearled white mother-of-pearl and decorated with diamond indexes. The luxurious edition features an enchanting golden butterfly design that is complemented by white mother-of-pearl and diamond indexes as well. Both versions are adorned with a fully diamond-set bezel. The 32.7 mm models have a date window at 6 o’clock on the dial. The vertically brushed caseback of the De Ville Prestige Dewdrop is embossed with an image of Chronos, the god of time, and engraved with the iconic De Ville logo. At the heart of the larger of the two sizes is the Co-Axial calibre 2500, the movement that signalled a revolution in mechanical watchmaking. This De Ville Prestige Dewdrop is offered with a three-year warranty. The smaller version is powered by the OMEGA quartz calibre 4061 and has a two-year warranty. Both sizes are water resistant to 3 bar (30 metres / 100 feet).

Luminor Submersible 1950

3 Days Chrono Flyback

Automatic Titanio – 47mm

Many fundamental innovations which have marked the history of the mechanical watch were developed in the military field in the first half of the last century. In those years the highest possible quality was required from instruments created for use by specialist forces, which often operated in conditions of extreme danger, and their requirements gave rise to many of the functions which are found in luxury sports watches today. The new Luminor Submersible 1950 3 Days Chrono Flyback Automatic Titanio – 47mm from Officine Panerai reunites features which have in common the military context of their origins, and they appear as two , with great personality and the purest Panerai identity.

Radiomir Ceramica – 45mm

Exclusively for the Kuwaity market, Officine Panerai presented a new Special Edition made in only 78 units

After the opening of its first boutique in Kuwait in 2012, Officine Panerai confirms its special interest in the growing Kuwaiti market for high-end watchmaking with the Radiomir Ceramica – 45mm, a Special Edition produced in only 78 units, available exclusively at the Panerai boutique in Al Hamra Tower, Kuwait.

The Radiomir Ceramica presents a new combination of a Radiomir case (45 mm in diameter), made entirely of matt black ceramic, and a black dial of extraordinary clarity and legibility as a result of its sandwich structure and minimalist design, with uniquely distinctive large figures. The result is a watch of strongly sporting character, with an immediately recognisable Panerai identity – faithfully reproducing the shape of the first watches created in 1936 for the Royal Italian Navy – while providing the performance expected of modern high quality watchmaking. The ceramic used by Panerai is synthesised from zirconium oxide powder, which undergoes a complex series of operations to become a material of remarkable aesthetic impact – a uniform matt black – as well as being very light, extremely tough and highly resistant to scratches and external shocks. The water-resistance of the case is 10 bar (equivalent to a depth of about 100 metres).

Eliros Chronographe

Often modern life can seem overwhelming with everything appearing unnecessarily complicated. Thankfully, the Eliros Chronographe presents time in a straightforward, simple to interpret form, allowing the wearer to concentrate on the essential. The clean, uncluttered lines of the Eliros Chronographe confer a timeless elegance. Each model is presented in a stainless steel case, incorporating a high-quality Swiss quartz movement. Nevertheless, despite being equipped with an impressive specification, the Eliros Chronographe remains accessibly priced, proving an affordable entry to Swiss luxury watch ownership.

Les Classiques Chronographe

Precision is especially important on a watch equipped with a chronograph. The purpose of this complication is to precisely measure elapsed hours, minutes and seconds. Les Classiques Chronographe delivers a high degree of accuracy, courtesy of its automatic ML112 movement. However, the tastefully styled layout of the dial could also be described as ‘precise’ with each element of its composition being the neat outcome of careful consideration by the Maurice Lacroix design team. Every aspect of the dial has been selected to enhance legibility and grant long-term ownership enjoyment. Numerous small details combine to form an eyecatching design with lasting appeal. The new Les Classiques Chronographe has a vintage feel, capturing the beauty of the past and distilled into a harmonious form relevant for today.

PORTOFINO FOR TWO: Portofino Automatic 37 and Portofino Automatic

Swiss luxury watch manufacturer IWC Schaffhausen has created a seductiverange of partners’ watches to grace its Portofino collection. The Portofino Automatic and the smaller Portofino Automatic 37 have formed a bond and together set off their respective attractionsto their best advantage. Couples who wish to celebrate their union with a symbol on their wrists can choose from eight combinations. Whether purist or lavishly set with diamonds, the timeless beauty of the Portofino For Two models underscores the decision by two individuals to spend their time and build their future together.

The Portofino Automatic 37 (Ref. 4581) and the PortofinoAutomatic (Ref. 3565) represent the marriage of two individual watches whose simple design language is an un¬equivocal commitment to timelessness. “The success of IWC’s Portofino watch line over the years can be explained by ,” explains Georges Kern, CEO of IWC Schaffhausen.

“In keeping with its name, this watch family reflects a carefree lifestyle suffused with southern flair. The Portofino For Two is a wonderful way for couples who share not only the same values, but also the same taste to show the world that they belong together.” The Portofino For Two alliance embraces six red gold and two stainless-steel versions. With their diamond-set bezels or dials, they will appeal to couples who not only plan to share the beautiful things in life with each other, but also wish to add a luxurious note to their mutual commitment. The mirror-polished surface of the case lends a further touch of luxurywhile the sunburst pattern on the dials creates fascinating reflections of light. An eye-catching feature on the 37-millimetre models is a slightly recessed inner circle, which underlines the dial’s three-dimensional character. The delicately nuanced colours of the alligator leather straps from well-known Italian shoe manufacturer Santoni accentuate the luxurious overall impression.

THE SPORTY MEMBER OF THE PORTUGIESER FAMILY

Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph

The Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph is the sportiest timepiece in a watch family steeped in tradition.At the request of many watch lovers – and to mark the 75th anniversary – the model is now slightly smaller with ergonomically designed strap horns and a new strap. Thanks to several restraineddesign modifications, the chronograph is now more luxurious and more balanced.

The robust, IWC manufactured chronograph calibrewith flyback function and analogue display of stop times longer than a minute on a subdial makes the Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph, which is water-resistant to 6 bar, an ideal sailing companion. The signal red seconds hand and the flange with its quarter-second scale for measuring short stop times, together with luminescent hands and indices are an indication of the watch’s sporting qualities. The screw-in crown, protective shoulders and the chrono¬graph push-buttons reminiscent of the bitts found on the decks of sailing ships underscore the special status of the Yacht Club Chronograph in the watch family. Despite its unusual role, the watch remains a dyed-in-the-wool Portugieser.The clearly structured dial with its classic railway-track-style chapter ring, the plain, simple Arabic numerals and slim, leaf-shaped feuille hands: the latest model borrows all these style-defining elements from the original Portugieser of 1939. After all, some things cannot be significantly improved, even after 75 years.

Elegant timepieces, jewellery and writing instruments inspired by the romance of the moon

Designed for the free-spirited and independent woman, the ultra-feminine Montblanc Bohème Collection with its pure lines and sophisticated designs sees the arrival of a new assortment of timepieces, jewellery and writing instruments inspired by the phases of the moon, and their influence on the passing of the seasons. Bohème Moongarden, a tribute to pure and sophisticated style, is a poetic and alluring extension to the Bohème line, evoking the captivating romance of the moon.

Capturing the presence and self-confidence of the contemporary Bohème lady, two new Montblanc timepieces pair aesthetic elegance with the highly functional attributes of a unique complication, expressing her passion for fine watchmaking. Montblanc has taken the 12 names of the different moons as inspiration to create Bohème Moongarden, a new exclusive complication developed in-house that displays the name of each month’s full moon instead of the traditional name of the month. The name appears in a crescent shape window in the centre surrounded by a golden line and the moon phases appear in an aperture at “6 o’clock”. An 18K red gold bezel is set with 78 fine Wesselton diamonds, giving the watch radiance. The feminine and sensuous floral Arabic numerals with a prominent “12” set on a sophisticated silvery-white «guilloché» dial with 90 facets, and the 18K red gold-plated hands in leaf shape add to the refined aesthetics of the Bohème Moongarden. Because the Bohème lady enjoys personalizing her look to convey her own distinctive style, the watch features an interchangeable leather strap mechanism so she can playfully change the straps, each one decorated with colourful seasonal patterns evoking the seasons related to the changing of the moon phases.

A second watch, Bohème Day & Night brings together timeless feminine elegance and complete functionality, balancing the highest aesthetic refinement with a respect for the utmost perfection of fine watchmaking traditions. The new timepiece is defined by its romantic small complication and a characteristic Bohème guilloché dial crafted in the purest fine watchmaking style. The original day & night indication allows the wearer to know which part of the day or night it is precisely – highlighting the beauty of transition. While the day is indicated through a sophisticated light blue and golden sun, the night indication is represented in a warm dark blue decorated with a smiling golden moon adorned by stars. True to the aesthetic attributes of the Bohème line, the unique character of every Bohème piece comes from the unexpected details that enrich the codes of fine watchmaking from the elegant 34mm stainless steel case featuring a bezel fully set with 72 top Wesselton diamonds to the sophisticated integration of the elliptical date opening on the dial.

EMPRISE

The square steel case of the Emprise watch, inspired by the design of the Louis Vuitton trunk, remains unchanged. It retains the same dimensions, 23mm x 23mm, with the LV at 5 o’clock. The strap reflects the themes of the Louis Vuitton leather goods collection for summer 2015, designed by Nicolas Ghesquière, and available in the same colour ways and materials. Emprise is available in oblique Epi leather, in either a denim blue colour with yellow stitching or in poppy red with tone-on-tone stitching. The mouldings around the dial are designed to match the new bracelets and straps.

The Emprise Malletage version echoes the padded lining of the Louis Vuitton trunks, represented by domed oval links on the steel bracelet, or the quilting on the black calfskin strap.

TAMBOUR MONOGRAM BIJOU

Launched in 2013, the Tambour Monogram collection now comes in a new 21mm size, ideal worn as a jewellery watch. Available in steel or steel set with gemstones, the opaline guilloché dial features a Hologram Monogram effect and, designed by Nicolas Ghesquière.

The strap is made in oblique Epi leather in the signature colours: poppy red and electric black. The Tambour Monogram Bijou watch also comes in a Rivière version in white gold, entirely set with diamonds from the case to the bracelet and the bezel.

The Vanguard Lady

The Vanguard line is enriched with a new feminine interpretation, featuring dynamic details as well as elegant and sensual characteristics.

Drawing its inspiration from the perfect Cintrée Curvex curves and reaffirming the startling identity of the Vanguard collection, the Vanguard Lady is emphasized by its glamourous details. The sun-stamped dial is adorned with the pink and white appliqué relief numbers. The distinct and feminine numbers perfectly complements the sporty and bold design of the case.

While the Vanguard architecture remains true to its original design, the Vanguard Lady is completed by the iconic rubber and leather strap with feminine pink colour stitches. The pink winding crown add the finishing touch to this feminine watch.

Housing a quartz movement, the Vanguard Lady is available in stainless steel and pink gold. This new collection is at once sporty in terms of its impressive shape and yet very feminine through the elegance of its style.

The Vanguard

With the classic Curvex case ensuring a firm grip on the Franck Muller traditions, the Vanguard takes a new dimension with its distinct numerals. The appliqué relief numbers that instantly grab attention are carefully hand-polished and brushed. The audacious and aggressive numerals perfectly complement the striking dial and robust winding crown.

Instead of the regular spring-bar technique, the strap is artistically integrated into the case with the help of two unseen screws. The rubber on the inside of the strap effortlessly takes the form of a bold wrist, while the Croco on the top instills grace. Modeled to perfection, the handsome blend of rubber and Croco creates absolute harmony with the iconic Cintrée Curvex case.

Sporting an automatic movement, this collection is available in titanium, red gold and red ergal and is further seen in two variants – classic and chronograph. With its dynamic masculine look and unparalleled style, this collection rightly puts Franck Muller in the vanguard of a new design trend.

The Vanguard Gravity

The Franck Muller Vanguard Gravity is a true symbol of technological avant-garde, teamed with a sporty approach, combining perfect lines while evoking the remarkable power of the time piece.

A new concept of tourbillon cage is demonstrated by its innovative elliptical shape and structure in aluminium. The bridge and the pillars of a traditional tourbillion have been turned into a magic and harmonious ellipse circle with diameters of 21.2mm and 7.7mm. Occupying the entire lower side of the dial, the impressive elliptical tourbillon cage, counters all effects of gravity, by making a full rotation every 60 seconds. An eccentric balance of 14mm further characterizes this unconventional tourbillon.

The remarkable mechanism is emphasized by blue sapphire crystal screens on both sides of the watch. The rubber on the inside of the strap effortlessly takes the form of a bold wrist and makes this model even more harmonious. The strap comes in a variety of finishes including fabric and croco. They create absolute harmony with the iconic Cintrée Curvex case.

Wholly in-house designed and manufactured, the Vanguard Gravity is available in titanium and 18-carat pink or white gold plated, this dynamic collection offers a personalized choice of 6 colourful variants for the bridge.

Vanguard Carbon

This year, the Vanguard’s Collection welcomes a new innovative model: the first Franck Muller timepiece featuring a case made from carbon. This material widely used in aviation, military and aeronautic is considered as being extremely strong and light. The carbon fibers give the Vanguard watch a new contemporary style. The machining process is delicate as the whole case including the tapping is crafted out of a mass of carbon.

More than ever the new Vanguard carbon watch unfurls the modern and futuristic features of masculinity. This technical watch embellished with yellow details renew this timekeeper’s elegant and harmonious vision.This luxury timepiece dedicated to men is a perfect match between harmonious design and pioneering technology. This timepiece is fitted on a strap in Cordura onto black rubber with coloured stitches.

The Vanguard carbon watch is a new chapter in Franck Muller’s story of modern and innovative watches.

INSTRUMENTO

At the time of the launch of INSTRUMENTO in 2000, de GRISOGONO was ahead of its time and remains so nearly 15 years later.  – featuring Fawaz Gruosi’s singular take on the tonneau-shaped case – imbued with a strong and unmistakable identity, INSTRUMENTO has risen to a place among the most recognized and admired 20th century designs. In 2015, the INSTRUMENTO collection reaches a new peak, both aesthetically and intrinsically.The INSTRUMENTO N° UNO has been optimized. Targeting the same level of excellence and attention to details that has guided de GRISOGONO through time and earned it worldwide renown, the INSTRUMENTO N°UNO is enhanced by a number of aesthetical and technical improvements. Simple details delivering absolute perfection. Its strap is fully and perfectly integrated with the case, giving the timepiece a more contemporary and assertive look. The case middle now features an extremely refined, minimalist design, as the fastening elements initially visible on the sides of the case middle have been concealed inside the case, while the corrector has been redesigned and integrated within the dual-time module and enables correction via the crown stem

THE GRAPPOLI COLLECTION

The new de GRISOGONO high jewellery timepiece gleams with more than a thousand of gemstones.

The delicate snow-setting on the dial and bezel is framed by a double row of gently moving briolette-cut gemstones. Composing a swirling pattern surrounding the watchcase, the briolettes are selected one-by-one, set and fitted to perfectly make the grapes moves smoothly jiggling on the wrist. Made of 120 hours of work into creating each unique timepiece, the creation process starts with the careful selection of each stone and especially to find the right colours and sizes of the briolettes. An artwork that requires not only patience but also a keen eye to find the most harmonious composition and balance between the stones. Then comes the intricate setting that is similar to lacework. The 70 moving briolettes composing the amazing corolla are delicately sewed on the case modules. With refined elegance, they dangle and move while reflecting light from any of their facets. Patience and time are necessary to mount and dismount the artwork several times to achieve absolute perfection and colour uniformity. At the end results an impressive setting of stones that radiate outwards in a perfectly proportioned spiral. The GRAPPOLI creation process asserts de GRISOGONO high jewellery mastery and Haute Couture spirit.

Première BOY

The Octagon shape of this watch brings the emblematic and iconicic PREMIÈRE watch to mind, as a tribute to the legendary N°5 bottle and to Place Vendôme. A creation inscribed in the watchmaking vocabulary of the House with its sober, refined design, strong lines, and its signature shape. The design is both contemporary and classic, and its angles are polished or satin-finished. CHANEL takes its first feminine creation, the PREMIÈRE, into masculine territory. The Première BOY watch holds within the art of twisting the elements from the masculine wardrobe so dear to Mademoiselle Chanel. With its enigmatic name it doesn’t think twice about shaking up the classic, feminine watchmaking codes.

Mademoiselle Privé

The jewelry watch collection, entitled “Mademoiselle Privé”, opens the door to the intimate world of Gabrielle Chanel, and showcases her most cherished symbols and objects she loved to have around her.

In the hands of the finest master artisans – enamellers, engravers, carvers and stone-setters – this collection adds yet another chapter to CHANEL’s creative saga, and uncovers new grounds for expressing unsurpassed skill and know-how of the Métiers d’Art craftsmanship used in Fine Watchmaking and High Jewelry.

Happy Fish watch

Exploring the depths of the sea

The exquisite Happy Fish collection welcomes a splendid model. With the “métiers d’art”, the new Happy Fish celebrates the magic of the underwater world. Offering a delightfully harmonious vision in turquoise and gold, the graceful movements and flowing curves of a majestic fish that is visible by night come to life through delicate engraving on the shimmering mother-of-pearl. The delightfully rounded shapes adorned with gold leaf create a softly glistening and luminous effect enhanced by graded shades of snow-set blue sapphires. Dancing across these waves are seven luminescent moving diamonds, while the red jasper eye of the fish stands out like an exclamation mark against the turquoise backdrop. The extreme delicacy of this jewellery craftsmanship continues on the bezel which is set with diamonds of three different alternating sizes for a softer effect, while the 18-carat rose gold case fitted with a white shimmering alligator strap shelters a mechanical self-winding movement.

Happy Sport 30mm Automatic

Have it all! – A motto befitting women that wear the Happy Sport 30mm Automatic. Feminine, technical, precious and modern: through the sheer diversity of its qualities, the Chopard icon represents the quintessence of watchmaking success. In 1993, Caroline Scheufele, Chopard Co-President and Artistic Director, designed a sporty watch based on an original design in an unexpected combination – steel and diamonds. The Happy Sport was born. True to the spirit of Happy Diamonds, these gems dancing freely between two sapphire crystals soon became a symbol of Chopard and feminine watchmaking as a whole. The new Happy Sport 30mm Automatic presents a silver-toned dial featuring a spiral guilloché centre pattern with five moving diamonds. In steel, rose gold, or two-tone, on a leather strap or metal bracelet, polished or partially set with diamonds, the Happy Sport 30mm Automatic versatile to cater for each woman’s personal style. A joaillerie version, in 18ct rose or white gold fully set with diamonds comes with a mother-of-pearl dial.

L.U.C 1963 Tourbillon

The purest expression of Chopard Haute Horlogerie

When Chopard pays tribute to watchmaking excellence, it does so in the finest possible way. Joining the proud lineage of L.U.C 1963 and L.U.C 1963 Chronograph watches, the L.U.C 1963 Tourbillon is a concentrated blend of the very best in Chopard haute horlogerie. Its finely crafted dial is in Grand Feu enamel. Its tourbillon movement is COSC certified and boasts a nine-day power reserve. This array of qualities, along with its classic and discreet elegance, combine to make the L.U.C 1963 Tourbillon a truly comprehensive work of horological art.

Mille Miglia GTS Collection

Automatic, Power Control and Chrono Racing in style

Over the years since its launch in 1988, the Mille Miglia has become a flagship collection of Chopard. In 2015, Chopard is entirely revisiting this grand classic by introducing the collection dubbed Mille Miglia GTS (for Grand Turismo Sport). This new collection, composed of a three-hand and date chronometer, a power reserve and a chronograph, sees the introduction of a Chopard movement: for the first time, the chronometer and power-reserve models will be equipped with a Chopard movement from the workshops of Fleurier Ebauches. The sleek, sophisticated design of these new creations rejuvenates the Classic Racing spirit embodied by the Mille Miglia collection, while remaining true to the identity codes of the models rolled out over the past 25 years. The Mille Miglia GTS Automatic, Power Control and Chrono models vividly illustrate this renewal.

The Secret Hours of Cartier, an Homage to the Sheer Beauty of Nature

Panthère Impériale High Jewellery Watch

The panther: undeniably Cartier!

The feline has been a legend, an icon, ever since its first appearance: Cartier’s incarnation of Woman. The image appears repeatedly, ever-changing, unpredictable, and its power of attraction is overwhelming. Here, Cartier has brought it to life in a two-dimensional cuff watch, and has achieved the unique feat of suggesting solidity through the perfection of its diamond paving. A virtuoso composition of hollows and openwork on a yellow gold band, paved with 907 brilliant-cut diamonds and 223 fragments of onyx, creates an animal presence as magnetic as it is captivating. Cutting the onyx alone took 600 hours of work, about two to three hours without interruption for each element, carried out on the piece. Light yellow, light orange, orange, deep orange and brown: these are the five colours of diamond that make up the palette of Cartier’s best artisans. As pointillist jewellers, these highly skilled workers devoted nearly 1,800 hours to the creation of this design, a likeness almost more perfect than the real thing. A work of patience and dedication revealing a minutely small timepiece on the clip containing the smallest of watch movements.

Rotonde De Cartier Grande Complication Watch Calibre 9406 MC

The Rotonde de Cartier Grande Complication watch is an incredible feat of watchmaking. 578 components, 5 years of development, 15 weeks of production at the Manufacture, 10 weeks of decorating and fi nishing and 5 weeks of assembly. Result is measured in millimetres. A thickness of 5.49 mm for a self-winding mechanical movement that brings together three of the most prestigious Fine Watchmaking complications: a perpetual calendar, a minute repeater and a flying tourbillon. Of all Cartier watchmaking creations, this timepiece is the most complex. Equipped with the self-winding caliber 9406 MC, this “Poinçon de Genève”-certifi ed timepiece combines the elegance of a platinum case with the excellence of an extra flat skeleton movement. Combining the mechanisms of a minute repeater, a perpetual calendar and a flying tourbillon requires unique expertise at the crossroads of several different crafts. The Manufacture’s watchmakers devoted themselves to the design of a rich and pure chime, to the analysis of comprehensive time measurement and to

The creation and evolution of the Astrotourbillon

It is as a sculptor of shapes that Cartier has approached this new interpretation of the Astrotourbillon. Entirely laid bare, disentangled from all other mechanisms in order to move into the foreground, it has been entirely rethought and created according to the strictest rules of proportion, harmony and balance. Behind lies an aesthetic intention, a daring creative stance that aims to highlight the movement’s structure so that it “disappears” behind the imposing XII and VI on the dial – a true Cartier signature. Freeing up this space allowed the Maison’s watchmakers to showcase the Astrotourbillon in all its majesty and increase the amplitude of its rotation.

The Crash Skeleton watch

Today, it is not simply the case that Cartier has subjected to radical transformations, but the entire movement which finds itself transformed, “crashed” in order to sit within the concave form of the case. As a sculptor of shapes, Cartier used this watchmaking material to model it: the constraints both served as the guide and offered resistance, they were the source of discoveries. The entire movement was rethought. Pushing technical prowess and achievement yet further, the dial is completely skeletonised, covered with oversized Roman numerals that reveal the movement beneath. They provide the support for the calibre. This aesthetic choice firmly places this watch in the world of Fine Watchmaking because the skeletonised movement ranks among the most emblematic complications. Through the transparent case back, the gear trains of the calibre 9618 MC with manual winding can be admired.