This month’s editorial shoot features neutral tones, iridescent fabrics and eye-catching embellishments that lead this season’s understated classics.

Dior

Brunello Cucinelli

Max Mara

Prada

Dolce&Gabbana

Emporio Armani
Shoes: Tod’s

Zegna

Giorgio Armani

Louis Vuitton
Her shoes: Malone Souliers
His Shoes: Brunello Cucinelli

Miu Miu

Rabanne
Bag: L’afshar
Earrings: Begüm Khan

Photography: Ziga Mihelcic
Styling & Direction: Lindsay Judge
Models: Patrick Moritz and Maia at Fashion League

Hair & Makeup: Jean at Signature Element

The 15th edition of the Abu Dhabi Art Fair took place from 22 to 26 November at Manarat Al Saadiyat.

As the most extensive edition yet, the event hosted more than 90 galleries from over 30 countries, 15 talks by more than 50 speakers, and a variety of daily performances by international and local artists. There were a host of exhibitions, commissions, talks, performances, workshops, tours and culinary experiences. 

The fair expands beyond the notion of a traditional art fair, placing a strong emphasis on a diverse public engagement programme, including art installations and exhibitions, talks, and events that take place in different locations throughout the year. The culmination of this year-long programme is the annual Abu Dhabi Art Fair in November, which provides an important sales platform for participating galleries whilst also offering these galleries an opportunity to showcase ambitious installations and site-specific works by their artists to a wide audience. 

Highlights included several talks by commissioned artists and curators who were joined by guest speakers and panellists discussing global art histories and joining the wider conversation on Sustainability in the lead-up to COP28. Some of the notable discussions included talks on Arab Women Artists, as well as Social Contributions in Art and culture conversations.

An exclusive exhibition curated by Radicants is titled ‘Frozen Forest’ and features Michelin Star restaurant Nouri by Chef Ivan Brehm. The exhibition cum dining destination explored themes of capitalism, humanity, and Sustainability. Through the curatorial platform Radicants, Nicolas Bourriaud presented a live exhibition facilitated by a 7-hour video highlighting the artistic portrayals of 12 gallery artists, provoking ideas about the extinction of nature through the hands of human desire for industrialisation and capitalism. The exhibition explored the arrest and manipulation of edible landscapes, questioning humanity’s collective disassociation from the natural world that is used for sustenance but neglected in terms of environmental care. Meanwhile, Nouri at the Frozen Forest was a unique dining experience that explored the concepts of human collaboration and the notion of scarcity as parallels, further discovering the contradictions that exist between modern societies and the natural world that enables them.

Other highlights included two captivating film screenings centred around climate change. Debuting at The Theatres, “1.5 Stay Alive” follows popular Caribbean musicians as they express their experiences with rising seas by composing and performing songs about climate change and their visions of how to confront it. While ‘Siege on my Land’, is a United Nations Development Program (UNDP) short film showcasing Guyana’s battle with climate change.

The fair also hosted hands-on art activities for visitors of all ages to unleash their creativity and showcase their artistic potential to artists.  

abudhabiart.ae

These are our favourite luxury properties to stay at during the holiday season, from waterside luxury to city delights.

Atlantis the Royal, Palm Jumeirah, Dubai

Since its opening at the beginning of 2023, Atlantis The Royal has become one of Dubai’s most iconic destinations. Attracting guests from around the world, this architectural marvel is as much loved for its design as its hospitality and facilities. Located at the top of Palm Jumeirah, this all-round destination has been touted as the world’s most ultra-luxury resort. While the resort is family-friendly, we would recommend it for couples or groups of friends in order to explore all of the resort’s 17 restaurants and bars (including 18 by celebrity chefs), as well as the 2km private beach, Nobu by the Beach and the brand new Cloud 22 rooftop pool. The resort comprises an impressive 795 rooms and suites with accommodation within three towers. All rooms come with state-of-the-art facilities and views either over the Palm or the Arabian Gulf. If you’re looking to relax, the AWAKEN Wellness spa is a 5,045 square meters holistic spa and wellness area including fitness, steam and sauna facilities, and indoor and outdoor pools – pure bliss! If you do decide to bring the little ones along, there’s plenty for them to do, including a dedicated family pool and access to Aquaventure.

www.atlantistheroyal.com 

Burj Al Arab, Dubai

This festive season, the Burj Al Arab promises a spellbinding experience, blending extravagant celebrations with the world-class hospitality for which it is renowned. Step into a realm of lavish festivities as the hotel is adorned with dazzling lights and festive décor, creating a magical ambience against the backdrop of the Arabian Gulf. The Burj Al Arab’s commitment to excellence extends to its festive culinary offerings, where renowned chefs craft gastronomic delights that redefine indulgence. Guests can savour exquisite menus that blend international flavours with local influences, ensuring a culinary journey fit for royalty.

The festivities extend beyond gastronomy, with the hotel’s breathtaking atrium transforming into a winter wonderland, complete with a towering Christmas tree and Santa’s grotto. Whether you’re enjoying the panoramic views from your suite or unwinding at the Talise Spa, every moment at the Burj Al Arab is a celebration of extravagance.

www.jumeirah.com 

Emirates Palace Mandarin Oriental, Abu Dhabi

An icon in the Abu Dhabi skyline, Emirates Palace Mandarin Oriental is the capital’s most recognised hotel. Perfect for a family getaway over the festive period, this recently renovated property features 390 rooms and suites, furnished to the highest levels of comfort and has stunning views of the city, sea, and hotel gardens. The lavish resort features twelve dining venues, serving up a variety of cuisines, as well as two temperature-controlled swimming pools, a 1,500-sqm spa, a kids’ club, and a private marina.

Over the festive season the resort has a number of reasons to visit, from a tree lighting ceremony on December 8 to a ‘Silent Night’ spa event on December 13. There is even a Winter Kids Camp to keep younger family members entertained as 2023 comes to a close.

www.madarinoriental.com

Jumeirah at Saadiyat Island Resort

Embrace the spirit of the season at Jumeirah at Saadiyat Island Resort in Abu Dhabi, where luxury meets tranquillity against the backdrop of the Arabian Gulf. As the festive season unfolds in 2023, this exquisite resort beckons travellers to experience the magic of the holidays in a setting of unparalleled beauty and sophistication.

Nestled on the pristine shores of Saadiyat Island, the resort’s contemporary architecture seamlessly blends with the natural surroundings, creating a serene oasis. The festive season brings a touch of enchantment to Jumeirah, with the resort adorned in festive decorations, sparkling lights, and a warm, welcoming ambience. Indulge in a culinary journey curated for the season, with the resort’s world-class restaurants offering a feast for the senses. From delectable international cuisines to locally inspired dishes, every dining experience is a celebration of flavours.

Guests can unwind at the resort’s private beach, surrounded by turquoise waters and swaying palm trees, or rejuvenate at the luxurious spa for a pampering escape. Whether it’s a romantic holiday retreat or a family celebration, Jumeirah at Saadiyat Island Resort promises an unforgettable festive experience where luxury, tranquillity, and holiday cheer come together in perfect harmony.

www.jumeirah.com 

One & Only Royal Mirage

Immerse yourself in the understated luxury of Dubai’s One&Only Royal Mirage hotel. Nestled along the pristine shores of the Arabian Gulf, this resort is a haven of calm and sophistication. From the moment you step into the lavish lobby adorned with Arabian-inspired décor, you are transported into a world of elegance and indulgence as the hotel seamlessly combines traditional Middle Eastern architecture with contemporary luxury, creating a setting that is both timeless and modern.

During the festive season, the hotel transforms into a mesmerising wonderland adorned with festive lights and decorations that capture the spirit of the holidays. Guests can relish in a culinary journey with world-class dining options, from exquisite international cuisine to authentic Arabian delicacies. Indulge in relaxation at the resort’s private beach, where the golden sands meet the azure waters of the Gulf. The world-class spa offers rejuvenating treatments, providing the perfect escape from the hustle and bustle of the holiday season.

Whether you’re seeking a romantic getaway, a family retreat, or a celebration with friends, the One&Only Royal Mirage promises an enchanting and unforgettable festive experience in the heart of Dubai. Embrace the warmth of Arabian hospitality and create cherished memories that will last a lifetime at this extraordinary destination.

www.oneandonlyresorts.com

The Ritz-Carlton Ras Al Khaimah, Al Wadi Desert

If the beach is not your style, escape to a realm of enchantment and luxury at The Ritz-Carlton Ras Al Khaimah, Al Wadi Desert, as the 2023 festive season unfolds in the heart of the Arabian desert. Nestled amidst rolling sand dunes and indigenous flora, this desert oasis invites discerning travellers to experience a holiday like no other.

Immerse yourself in the spirit of the season as The Ritz-Carlton transforms into a magical retreat adorned with festive lights and elegant décor, creating a captivating atmosphere under the starlit desert sky. Each moment at Al Wadi Desert is a celebration of refined opulence and the warmth of Arabian hospitality. Indulge in culinary delights crafted for the season, with the resort’s renowned restaurants offering a symphony of flavours that tantalise the taste buds. Whether savouring a gourmet feast or enjoying a private dining experience in the heart of the desert, every meal is a culinary journey.

Unwind in the embrace of nature at the resort’s lavish villas, each with its own private pool and terrace overlooking the desert landscape. For those seeking adventure, explore the pristine desert surroundings on horseback or indulge in a rejuvenating spa experience.

This festive season, let The Ritz-Carlton Ras Al Khaimah, Al Wadi Desert, be your sanctuary of luxury and tranquillity, where the magic of the holidays comes alive in the serene beauty of the desert landscape.

www.ritzcarlton.com

Waldorf Astoria Ras Al Khaimah

Celebrate the magic of the festive season in the lap of luxury at Waldorf Astoria Ras Al Khaimah, a jewel in the desert that promises an unforgettable holiday escape. As 2023 unfolds, this iconic resort beckons travellers to experience the epitome of refined elegance against the stunning backdrop of the Hajar Mountains and the Arabian Gulf. Waldorf Astoria Ras Al Khaimah transforms into a winter wonderland during the festive season, with the grandeur of its architecture complemented by festive decorations, twinkling lights, and a palpable air of holiday cheer.

The resort’s commitment to unparalleled service is evident in every meticulous detail, ensuring guests are immersed in a world of luxury and warmth. Indulge in a culinary journey with the hotel’s gourmet offerings, where world-class chefs curate festive menus that blend international flavours with local influences. From sumptuous feasts to intimate dining experiences, every meal is a celebration of gastronomic excellence. Whether lounging by the infinity pool, enjoying a round of golf on the championship course, or rejuvenating at the Waldorf Astoria Spa, guests are invited to create cherished memories in a setting that exudes sophistication.

www.hilton.com

The Oberoi Beach Resort, Al Zorah, Ajman

Embark on a journey of luxury and tranquillity at the Oberoi Beach Resort, Al Zorah, where the sun-kissed shores of the Arabian Gulf meet unparalleled hospitality. This hidden gem along the Al Zorah coastline invites travellers to indulge in a celebration of joy, relaxation, and understated elegance. The Oberoi Beach Resort, Al Zorah, combines contemporary design with natural beauty, creating an oasis of serenity.

Savour culinary delights curated for the season at the resort’s world-class restaurants, where a symphony of flavours awaits your palate. From gourmet international cuisine to local specialities, every dining experience is a celebration of culinary excellence.

Unwind in the lap of luxury in the resort’s spacious villas and suites, each thoughtfully designed to offer breathtaking views of the Gulf and mangrove forests. Whether lounging by the infinity pool or pampering yourself at the Oberoi Spa, every moment is an opportunity to create cherished memories.

www.oberoihotels.com 

If you’re heading to the mountains this winter, ensure you’re equipped with the most stylish skiwear. We round up highlights from the must-have collections

Balenciaga

The first-ever Balenciaga Skiwear collection debuted this November, and it’s every bit as bold as one would expect. The collection not only features standout pieces but also is made with innovative materials and techniques to offer the best performance and protection.

The collection is designed for visibility, insulation, aerodynamic, and protection and evolves themes that have become Balenciaga signatures while introducing functional athletic objects—a snowboard, skis, a helmet, and poles for downhill, cross-skiing, or hiking—for the first time.

The collection includes parkas and cargo pants in membrane-bonded technical ripstops with integrated snow gaiters, sophisticated ventilation systems, battery life-saving pockets, and ski pass holders. Jackets and vests in quilted matte nylon and five-pocket ski pants in bonded stretch nylon, and close-fitting fleece jackets echo the House’s classic silhouettes, including the Hourglass Jacket and the Puffer. Outerwear is treated to be water-repellent, keeping the wearer warm and dry. A colour palette of red, white and black makes the pieces for men and women simple yet eye-catching

Chanel

The Chanel Coco Neige 2023/24 collection combines the brand’s Parisian elegance with a sporty edge, presenting a series of looks for outdoor winter sports. The collection was launched with a campaign starring Chanel ambassador Lily-Rose Depp and is shot by photographer Mikael Jansson.

Lily-Rose says of the campaign, which was shot at an ice rink, “When I heard that we were going to be shooting at an ice-skating rink, I couldn’t help but think of Ice Princess, this movie I used to watch all the time when I was a little girl, and I’d think, I want to be an ice skater too! I never quite pursued the dream, but I loved that movie.”

The collection features a colour palette of black, white and gold, with splashes of pink and the Chanel logo emblazed in various forms across ready-to-wear pieces. Accessories come in the form of faux fur calf-length boots and jewellery. Wearing ice skates, the CHANEL ambassador posed in a tight-fitting gold lamé jumpsuit, a technical satin ski suit with a shearling hood, and a printed velvet outfit. “The best part of the shoot was getting to explore the collection in such a fun space and getting on the skates. Even if I’m not the best ice skater in the world, it was really fun,” she adds.

Dior

Dior’s DiorAlps collection returns for 2023, dreaming up a picturesque mountain escape. Designed by Maria Grazia Chiuri, the collection features reinvented statement pieces and silhouettes from the house’s recent collections. The design combines high technicity and styles for an eye-catching look on the slopes.

Puffers, jackets, après-ski boots and the emblematic Dior Book Tote are all adorned with the Plan de Paris print, thought up by the Creative Director of the Dior autumn-winter 2023-2024 ready-to-wear collection, an irresistible new Dior fundamental that maps the City of Light in a hypnotic interplay of shadows and perspectives. The pieces, including ski goggles with a strap punctuated by “Christian Dior”, are also dressed in the iconic Dior Oblique.

The pants – available in shades of cream or black – are enhanced by knee reinforcements, ensuring optimum comfort in all circumstances. The signature design of the Diorunion capsule – the coat of arms embellished with the motto “L’union fait la force” – flourishes on quilted jackets, as well as on accessories such as scarves, bonnets, hats and caps.

Fendi

Fendi has revealed a colourful skiwear capsule for men and women. Designed to combine performance and style, the designs capture the essence of Fendi while being perfectly equipped for a day on the slopes.

The women’s offering is strongly linked to the women’s fall/winter 2023-24 collection, with a colour palette mirroring that from the collection, featuring neutrals and iconic Fendi logos. A ski jacket with fur hoot and a jacquard belt is crafted from a high-quality post-consumer recycled polyester yarn that regenerates marine waste and plastic from land sources. The fabric is paired with a membrane that makes the jacket windproof, waterproof and breathable. The jacket and the matching ski pants are coloured in anthracite grey and bright red for the plain versions, while the classic black and white declinations are printed with the timeless FF logo. A classic puffer jacket is reversible with one black side and the other with a tobacco-coloured all-over FF logo print, creating a statement look with the coordinated ski pants.

Bodycon technical underpinnings are designed to be mixed and matched with the outerwear, following the same palette and style. A unique fabric crafted from carbon threads becomes a thermoregulating, hygroscopic and waterproof set, lightweight yet warm, with anti-bacterial and anti-odour properties. Complementing the looks, furry reversible outerwear and accessories are crafted from 100% wool, adding softness to the collection. 

Men’s proposals are spiced up by a multicoloured version of the FENDI Shadow, a larger-than-life logo that disappears into geometric abstraction, blending nuances of blue, lilac and powder pink to fade into delicate orange and yellow. With this peculiar print, the technical shapes of a ski suit, an anorak and a zipped jacket acquire a stylish attitude. Complementing the outerwear for après-ski moments, a warm wool sweater with FENDI Shadow jacquard is offered in blue and yellow shades.

Ski accessories complete the story: ski helmet, gloves, and mask all feature the iconic FF logo, which is presented in tonal white, anthracite grey, or classic brown.

Louis Vuitton

The new LV Ski collection is described as “a dynamic winter wardrobe”. It combines craftsmanship, innovation and fashion with a fully adaptable wardrobe for men and women. Combining men’s and women’s designs, the collection is crafted from innovative technical materials with a bold yet streamlined silhouette.

For women, outerwear reimagines sport uniform influences with an elevated edge. Graphic motifs freshly interpret the Monogram and Louis Vuitton signatures on down-filled jackets and polished parkas. These winterised volumes are worn over slim ski suits and sporty knit layers that fit close to the body. Ski pants, technical trousers and contoured legs create a series of silhouettes for every winter occasion. The LV Flocon logo reappears across the collection, its original design conjuring both a snowflake and the Monogram flower. The women’s wardrobe is complemented with a selection of iconic bags.

For men, the look is rugged yet refined and defined by outerwear that emphasises technical details and padding to maintain warmth. A ski parka in black breakage topstitching with matching trousers in calfskin leather. This motif, inspired by the aerial graphics of ice landscapes and glaciers, appears on a black and white puffer ski suit, in a fleece and placed on a cotton sweatshirt. Patterns extend across the collection: underlayers, such as fitted jackets and gilets, are emblazoned with slope-like patterns; an alpine mohair cardigan with a sky and mountain motif suggests an abstracted Fair Isle, and a polar geometric pattern appears in knitwear. There are also several luxuriously cosy pieces that lean towards après-ski or weekend dressing, such as a knitted jacket with a removable shearling collar.

Prada

The new Prada Linea Rossa collection features high-performance clothes for the man who’s series about sport and style. Offering pieces suitable for a range of winter sports, the collection works with innovative technical materials and combines the Prada aesthetic with sports essentials.

The collection was revealed via a new campaign with images shot by Kris Lüdi in the valley of Engadin, Switzerland.

Contemporary snowboarding sits alongside skeleton bobsleigh and speed skating, drawn from a past yet recontextualised for now; classical music progresses to modern grime, sharp digital footage intercut with grained film. The past here can become the present – reinvigorated and rethought through the spirit of now.

Gucci

Gucci has revealed a collection of ready-to-wear and eyewear designed for mountain getaways or cold days in the city. The Gucci Après-Ski selection comprises a wardrobe of sporty styles in vibrant hues, with matching sets that can also be styled separately, as well as reinterpretations of iconic handbags. 

The selection also includes ski masks defined by the House’s signature codes. Fitted for glossy mountain peaks, with sporty details and technical features, the frames – available in various colours – are decorated with the name of the House, while the Gucci Web strap appears at the back. Bright guccissima lenses complete many of the styles. On-piste, off-piste, or simply in the resorts, from snowy peaks to city streets, the masks expand perspectives on the surrounding realities, seamlessly connecting what is seen and how one is seen. 

Tom Ford Eyewear

Tom Ford Eyewear has revealed an Après-Ski collection that merges the brand’s identity with athletic style. The collection is marked by innovative, contemporary design and iconic signature details crafted from state-of-the-art materials.

The FT1124 ski goggle injects utility with modernist glamour. Its interchangeable mirrored and photochromic bronze lenses are secured with a wide, adjustable elastic strap emblazoned with a large, graphic Tom Ford logo. The style comes in dedicated packaging.

The Rellen and Linden sunglasses transform the classic pilot genre. These sporty masks have newly bold volumes with graphic metal detailing. They feature photochromic lenses that alter their shade depending on the light conditions. The two styles offer variations on the look: the Linden, a modified butterfly silhouette; the Rellen, a softly squared shape. Either way, they heighten the chic of après-ski style. 

Lebanese designer Rami Kadi presented a transformative fashion show during COP 28.

The designer presented ten sustainable couture gowns that seamlessly blend opulence with sustainability.

The event reflects Rami Kadi’s commitment to eco-conscious design, echoing the rhythm of the ocean in each collection.

The collection of one-off gowns features dresses adorned with bio-based embroideries and ethically sourced embellishments. 

The ocean theme served as a powerful reminder that emphasizes the brand’s unwavering commitment to marrying elegance with eco-conscious practices in a seamless union of luxury and sustainability, echoing the timeless beauty and depth of the ocean. 

The gowns featured holographic embroideries and eco-friendly materials, the showcase transcends mere fashion, delving into the heart of sustainability. 

The show concluded with a mother-of-pearl couture gown that evokes the fluidity and luminescence of ocean waves, by combining a satin bodice with a pleated organza skirt adorned with sustainable tulle and cruelty-free feathers, and a vaporous lime gown embellished with tear crystals, bio-based sequins, featuring a voluminous ruffled organza skirt and bolero. 

The presentation aligned with the Maison’s mission to support the global climate agenda and signifies a move towards more sustainable fashion practices, reinforcing Maison Rami Kadi as a pioneer in sustainable fashion practices and green technology innovations, having acquired the position of UN Goodwill ambassador for sustainable fashion in West Asia after being appointed in 2020.

unfccc.int/cop28

The highly anticipated United Nations 2023 Climate Change Conference (COP) took place at Expo City Dubai from November 30 to December 12.

The global event saw over 70,000 participants convene, including heads of state, government officials, international industry leaders, private sector representatives, academics, experts, youth and non-state actors. The beginning of the event saw world leaders and delegates from around the world descending on the city to discuss crucial topics and issues related to climate change. Attendees included King Charles III of the United Kingdom, Indian Prime Minister Narendra Modi, French President Emmanuel Macron, European Commission President Ursula von der Leyen, Italian Prime Minister Giorgia Meloni, United States Vice President Kamala Harris and many more. During the opening day of the event, world leaders posed for a group photo, highlighting their commitment to fighting climate change and promise to work together against this global catastrophe.

The COP28 Presidency has taken an innovative and inclusive approach to the two-week program for COP28. It is the first Presidency to hold an open consultation on thematic areas and sequencing. The program highlights the sectors and topics that stakeholders repeatedly raised during consultations, including both annual fixtures of the COP agenda, such as energy and finance, and new, essential topics like health, trade and relief, recovery, and peace.

The thematic days’ programming also incorporates four crosscutting themes that underpin effective, interconnected delivery: Technology and innovation, Inclusion, Frontline Communities and Finance.

COP28 UAE delivered the first-ever Global Stocktake – a comprehensive evaluation of progress against climate goals – as mandated by the Paris Climate Agreement. The two-week event saw several discussions take place, hoping to start the next chapter of moving towards a more sustainable future.

The event was opened with a speech by COP28 President Dr Sultan Al Jaber, who expressed his pride at the UAE hosting a critical climate action event. He discussed the impact of climate change on the planet and why we are at a crucial point in helping to combat the damage that’s already been done and continues to happen. He pledged to lead an inclusive and transparent process, one that encourages free and open discussion between all parties. He asked world leaders to “start this COP with a different mindset” and “adopt a different way of thinking”. He used the UAE as an example; as a country that has developed so much in just 52 years, it shows what can be done when you have “big ambitions, optimism, true partnership, determination, and commitment.”

King Charles III also expressed his concern about climate change and the importance of this crucial moment in an address, outlining how we need to take action now. “I pray with all my heart that Cop28 will be another critical turning point towards genuine transformational action at a time when, already, as scientists have been warning for so long, we are seeing alarming tipping points being reached.” Adding, “some important progress has been made, but it worries me greatly that we remain so dreadfully far off track as the global stocktake report demonstrates so graphically.”

COP28 was structured into two areas called the blue and green zones. The Blue Zone was a UNFCCC-managed site that was only open to UN-accredited participants. This is where official discussions are taking place. The Green Zone was open to everyone and offers a platform for different groups to raise awareness about climate action. In the Green Zone, an ongoing curated content programme will include thematic days, conferences, panel discussions, talks, presentations and more. It also had a Youth Hub, where young people could discuss, collaborate and network on climate change solutions, as well as a Civil Societies Hub, which hosted presentations, activations and discussions on the part civil societies play in climate change solutions. There was also be Arts and Cultural Programming that demonstrated climate change and solutions through various art mediums.

Elsewhere, fashion and luxury brands were doing their bit to contribute to the event. Long-time sustainability advocate Stella McCartney hosted a sustainable innovation exhibit during the conference, which represented the fashion industry and how it can continue to support sustainability.

The designer and her team also engaged in several talks throughout the two-week period. McCartney also revealed a series of new announcements and commitments in her 2023 Impact Report. This includes renewed commitments to innovation and fossil fuel reduction across materials and processes throughout the production, sale and end-of-life of all Stella McCartney products. The brand also revealed strategic partnerships with Mango Materials and Air Carbon to develop new innovations and materials from GHG emissions. There will also soon be the reveal of the 2024 Circular Design Guide, which will openly share sustainable circular design materials knowledge, hoping to inspire other industries.

The designer’s delegation at the event focused on three key goals:

• Advocating for policy regulations to change and incentivise sustainable business and the decarbonisation of the industry.

• Continuing a decades-long mission built around human and animal protection and welfare.

• Building a coalition of global government and business leaders to support and scale investment in a wide range of material and process innovations.

The designer also hosted a sustainable market which showcased the work of 15 pioneers in the industry, as well as breakthroughs in regenerative agriculture, bio and plant-based alternatives to plastic, animal leather fur and traditional fibres.

Elsewhere, Italian fashion house Brunello Cucinelli confirmed its commitment to safeguarding the environment and craftsmanship with the launch of a new project, launched in some Himalayan areas in 2022 as the result of an agreement with the SMI Fashion Task Force founded by King Charles III of England. It was an opportunity to update on the progress of this project inspired by Human Sustainability, a core value of the Solomeo-based company to foster the dignity of every living being, respect for Creation and a culture of balance between profit and giving back.

The goal is to restore harmony between small local communities in some areas of the broad Himalayan territory and its extraordinary natural environment. Efforts are being made to regenerate degraded landscapes and at the same time, recover traditional craftsmanship and textile skills, an exceptional resource not only for that region but for the history and sustainable future of mankind as a whole. The Brunello Cucinelli Fashion House is working to support the local cashmere, cotton and silk economies, always keeping a close eye on the crucial issues of climate change and the risk of a progressive loss of biodiversity. To this end, degraded landscapes in the Western and Eastern Himalayas are being reclaimed, also thanks to the valuable partnership with Reforest Action and the Circular Bioeconomy Alliance.

Local forests are being restored in the Assam province, while In the Ladakh region, which is located in the Western Himalayas, the Project is developing the value chain of one of the world’s most valuable fibres, pashmina, by involving local communities. They have already started their first pashmina production under the principle of Human Sustainability and are being helped to better cope with the consequences of climate change through suitable daily farming practices.

Federico Marchetti commented: “It is a source of great pride for the Fashion Task Force of the Sustainable Markets Initiative, which I have the honour to chair, to share the extraordinary progress achieved with this project exactly one year after its first presentation at COP27. These significant and tangible results confirm that we are on the right track and spur us on to continue investing courageously for a new sustainable future, regenerating the natural resources of our planet and preserving the precious craftsmanship of local economies.

I am very grateful to Brunello Cucinelli, who strongly believes in the project and in our Task Force as a tool to make this change possible together.”

Closer to home and Dubai-based company Dubai Holding hosted a series of talks and presentations at its public showcase at Expo City. Four daily informative talks and presentations are sharing the company’s sustainability initiatives, including design and construction, waste management, community development and hospitality. Aiming to foster awareness and drive engagement on climate action, the programme also includes a number of inspiring talks with expert speakers from local and international companies.

cop28.com

Max Mara north to Stockholm, Sweden, for its Resort 24 collection presentation. Inspired by the country’s Midsommar folk festival celebrations, it embodies the mood of the Swedish summer season in its newest collection.

Throughout the capsule, there are traditional nods to Scandinavian style while remaining true to the ethos of the brand. The brand was strongly influenced by Swedish writer and the first-ever woman to win the Nobel Prize, Selma Lagerlöf.

This was a collection in which the no-nonsense, upright, tailored silhouette of the 1900s yields modern-looking gigot sleeves, ankle-grazing skirts, elbow-length capes and smart blouses to wear with bow ties.

In contrast, there are billowing tunics, long and short, featuring black and ivory braids, pom poms, tassels and studs that echo folk motifs.

Striking modernity is achieved by taking folk blouses and recutting them in linear modern fabrics, stripping away superfluous decor.

Midsommar is the folk festival that celebrates the gift of the summer. One of the most charming traditions is the collection of seven types of wildflowers – Septem Flores.

The legend says that anyone lucky enough to find one of each should sleep with them under their pillow to dream of their future sweetheart. With this in mind, the brand played with elegant floral prints, capturing the natural beauty of the region. 

maxmara.com

The Grand Tour is a collection inspired by the voyage taken by Van Cleef & Arpels’ founder André Suarès. 

Documented in a published account Le Voyage du Condottière is a ramble through the cultural centres of Italy’s “Boot” (Venice, Florence, and Naples), and an exploration of the Renaissance masters (Leonardo da Vinci, Botticelli, Michelangelo, etc.).

 Born in England in the 16th century, the Grand Tour – so named in reference to a circular journey returning to its starting point – became popular during the 18th and 19th centuries.

Over a century ago, the maison returned to this journey and drew inspiration from its key elements. The collection is multi-dimensional. It blends the traditions of jewellery and decorative arts – such objects were brought back as souvenirs from the Grand Tour – with the idea of once again discovering and mixing periods and cultures. 

For that, we followed the trail of our predecessors and chose cities that were renowned stops historically. We took inspiration from antique jewellery – Roman, Etruscan, Medieval or Renaissance –marrying it with our own heritage, style and craftsmanship. The result is like a colourful sketchbook that invites to dive into destinations and gemstones.” Says Nicolas Bos, President and CEO of Van Cleef & Arpels. 

Van Cleef & Arpels has deployed the full spectrum of its expertise: the creativity of its design studio, the trained eye of its gemmologists, and the savoir-faire and mastery of its High Jewellery workshops. 

The Maison’s designers and craftsmen have breathed life into pieces conceived like so many travel sketches: an invitation to set forth and admire in wonder. Throughout the collection, necklaces and bracelets form landscapes rich in contrasts, their motifs ranging from Italian antiquity to the mesmerising beauty of snow-peaked mountains.

Worked three-dimensionally in the round, the clips display sculptural volumes that blur the boundaries between jewellery and the goldsmith’s art. Earrings light up the face in the style of baroque girandoles or Etruscan bauletti, while rings rise up in relief on the hand, captivating the gaze with their graphic contours and sparkling colours. 

vancleefarpels.com

Tiffany & Co.’s 2023 Blue Book high jewellery collection is inspired by the sea. Titled Out of the Blue, it is a continuation of Nathalie Verdeille’s first Blue Book collection for Tiffany & Co., the House’s Chief Artistic Officer of Jewellery and High Jewellery pays homage to Jean Schlumberger’s marine-inspired masterworks and explores his fantastical perspective of the sea. 

The brand is expanding on five of the collection’s existing themes—Shell, Coral, Pisces, Star Urchin and Starfish—and reimagining Schlumberger’s vision in a new theme: Sea Anemone. 

With geometric and stylised aesthetics, each masterpiece perpetuates and reinvents Schlumberger’s enigmatic symbols of the sea.

 “Our collection is a dance between mimesis and stylisation, representation and figuration, realism and abstraction of nature,” said Nathalie Verdeille, Chief Artistic Officer, Jewellery and High Jewellery, Tiffany & Co. “The ocean-inspired masterpieces are an ode to Jean Schlumberger’s rich creative repertoire. From his creations, we have created a new dreamlike language that animates what he so brilliantly conceived half a century ago.”

Often described as the flower of the sea, the Sea Anemone theme honours the dexterity of this creature’s forms. 

This new addition to the Blue Book 2023: Out of the Blue collection features highly innovative design mechanisms such as a bracelet containing diamonds, blue cuprian elbaite tourmalines and turquoise set en tremblant — lending a sense of subtle motion and movement.

Other creations are designed with an inverted setting consisting of diamonds with their culets facing out, lending a spiky texture magnifying the Sea Anemone theme. 

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The 2023 “Metaphoria” collection is a tribute to the original offering of the same name, created by Yves Piaget in 1969. 

Experimentation, innovation and joy are part of the maison’s DNA. From as early as the 1960s, Piaget dared to introduce coral, turquoise and lapiz lazuli into watchmaking and into unique pieces of jewellery. 

This desire to use unexpected materials in pieces created to high jewellery standards is still at the very core of our identity.

Says Benjamin Comar, Piaget CEO. 41 jewellery pieces and 11 watches are divided into two chapters, Azureia and Beautanica, expressing Piaget’s vision of contemporary high jewellery by paying homage to its main source of inspiration: vibrant, radiant nature.

This inspiration is paired with the highest levels of savoir-faire, further enhanced by a careful selection of the purest gemstones. From contrasting materials to a play with form and light, from fluidity to asymmetry, Metaphoria is the epitome of the distinctive codes of Piaget’s style, in which imaginative design meets breath-taking savoir-faire and the unquenchable pursuit of perfection.

Piaget.com

Bulgari’s Mediterranea High Jewellery collection, which launched in Venice earlier this year, is an ode to the Mediterranean and the beauty of craftsmanship within the region.

Inspired by the arts, beauty, and excellence, beginning with the jeweller’s home, the eternal city of Rome is a constant source of creative inspiration for the brand. 

“This High Jewellery collection is a homage to Mediterranean beauty. Being in the Mediterranean region, all my senses are awakened; I see beauty everywhere. Architecture, nature, and people are an inspiring melting pot, where many different cultures and societies have mingled and enriched each other over centuries.” stated Lucia Silvestri Bulgari, Jewellery Creative Director.

Mediterranea is divided into three universes: The “Southern Radiance,” The “Roman Splendor,” and “East Meets West,” each of them referring to a specific constellation of symbols, atmospheres, and inspirations. A final universe is inspired by the snake, an iconic symbol of the brand thanks to its instantly recognisable Serpenti collections. A selection of pieces celebrate the 75th anniversary of this icon. 

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The Cruise collection by Louis Vuitton was unveiled on the private island of Isola Bella, in Lake Maggiore.

The capsule was inspired by aquatic dwellings, but when the show was due to take place – in the gardens of the isle – nature reminded mankind who had the upper hand. 

Despite rain-stopping play and moving the show inside, the brand managed to take photos of the looks in the original gardens before the heavy rainfall commenced.

The foliage and mystery of the gardens in bloom created a beautiful, sensual backdrop for this collection. 

Set amongst the waters of Lake Maggiore, there was a sense of metamorphosis in the pieces presented in the show – moving from aquatic influences to those of the fauna of the isle. 

The colour palette also reflected the surroundings, with a myriad of blues, broken up by strong black-and-white statements. Curved lines and edges mirrored the effect of water and billowing fabrics reflected the sense of the wind catching the waves. 

Even the way fabrics were sewn gave the effect of movement with fluidity throughout the entire collection. 

louisvuttion.com

For this feminine yet bold collection, Elie Saab was inspired by Marella Agnelli. Known affectionately as the ‘Last Swan,’ Agnelli was a socialite, art collection and style icon who inspired a generation of Italian women. 

Saab recreated her strong yet majestic allure through an offering of muted jewel tones, crisp silhouettes and diverse textures come together in three distinct moods that move through demure galas, urban garden parties and the cosmopolitan jet set.

Warm metallic yarn-embroidered party rompers and beaded strapless midi dresses are illuminating. Moonshadow white crepe peplum tops and jackets bring a touch of playful feminine volume to more fitted contours. Midnight black jersey drapes into long dresses with high-defined slits and scalloped plunging necklines finely outlined in glistening chain. Minimalist lines are emboldened in vibrant bursts of red tweed and Denver green crepe.

The Elie Saab woman seamlessly dances through each tableau with refined ease. Fog and powder white knit into a radiant striped dress with short bishop sleeves. Gradient monogram embroidery petals across the skirts of pastel halter gowns and across the necklines of white shirt kaftans. Platform mules in coloured satin and wood elongate each silhouette to emphasise sophisticated bearing, while plexiglass minaudières in translucent tones add a breath of contemporary flare. 

Confident in prints and subdued splashes of colour, all her outfits exude a natural elegance. Lush greens, aquamarines and purple crush drape and pleat into quintessential ELIE SAAB silk robes and gradient-tailored trouser suits, with delicate monogram brooch accents. Fresh oversized floral prints blossom into large billowing cotton capes with matching flowered shorts and crop tops. A collection-defining pale rose ombré silk kaftan emphasises effortless movement.

Midsommar is the folk festival that celebrates the gift of the summer. One of the most charming traditions is the collection of seven types of wildflowers – Septem Flores. The legend says that anyone lucky enough to find one of each should sleep with them under their pillow to dream of their future sweetheart. With this in mind, the brand played with elegant floral prints, capturing the natural beauty of the region.

eliesaab.com

Dior’s Cruise 2024 collection was presented in Mexico City on May 20. Designed by Creative Director Maria Grazia Chiuri, the designer described the location as a “place of the soul.” 

Chirui was inspired by the work of Mexican surrealist artist Frida Kahlo. Known for her portraits and self-portraits, Kahlo was inspired by her country’s pop culture, and her unique approach to her artworks made them forever modern.

Kahlo was also known for her clothing choices, which became another creative outlet for her. She often wore traditional Tehuana dresses combined with various contemporary elements, perfectly transcending cultures, genders and eras.

Inspired by this unique style, Kahlo’s style choices can clearly be seen throughout the collection. Chiuri also chose an apt location to present the show, the Antiguo Colegio de San Ildefonso, where the Mexican painter studied and also met her husband, Diego Rivera.

The designer combines bold prints and colours with hemp and silk lace, original embroideries and delicately constructed designs. 

Masculine pieces are paired with elegant garments, mirroring Kahlo’s iconic style. Some pieces were more literal than others, with designers reflecting pieces worn by the artist and others taking elements of her style.

 Once again, she chose to work with local talent to help bring her vision to life, this time partnering with Mexican artisans who created elements of the collection by hand, from weaving to embroideries. 

Dior.com

Chanel’s Cruise 2024 collection by Virginie Viard was a celebration of colour inspired by the city of Los Angeles. Bringing together sporty and glamorous looks on the West Beach coast, this vibrant collection has us in the mood for summer.

Presented in a captivating location in California at sunset, the collection’s colours reflect its surrounding environment and the vibrancy of the nearby city. The offering transcends generations with inspirational eras transcending the 1920s, 30s, 70s and 80s.

“Between a tribute to the glamour of great film stars and evoking the world of fun to be had with aerobics, sports and roller skating, between the dream on the one hand and what you want to wear on the other, it’s all a question of balance,” wrote Virginie Viard on the show notes.

This was an all-encompassing collection of fun. From Rhinestone- covered mini-shorts and jumpsuits to embroidered bustiers and little tank tops, 1960s-inspired suits, bathrobes and casual pyjamas, to 1930s-style shoes, swimsuits, wrap-around tops, legwarmers and evening dresses. The best of Chanel from every generation.

The presentation was a breath of fresh air and a far cry from the serious, stiff shows we are used to seeing in Paris. This was all about fun, and everything goes. Models wore roller skates, décor came in the form of disco balls, and milkshakes were handed out as refreshments.

“The idea is to offer a breath of fresh air, a voyage, a light-hearted and happy fantasy,” concludes Virginie. 

chanel.com

Address Grand Creek Harbour is a hidden gem in the centre of Dubai. Located within the newly developed Grand Creek Harbour area, this contemporary luxury property is a home-from-home for Dubai residents and visitors alike.

With skyline views and surrounded by tranquil waters of Dubai Creek, Address Grand Creek Harbour is situated at the crossroads between old and new Dubai. The waterfront location, which is in close proximity to the highly sought-after Viewpoint, makes this a truly unique property in the city.

Much like an address property, visitors can expect the highest standards in hospitality fused with contemporary design and an Art Deco twist. The expansive lobby area is impressively large yet homely, with attention to detail throughout. Guest rooms are elegantly decorated with chic, understated interiors and the latest in technology. Showpiece suites include Executive, Skyline and Panoramic Suite options with balconies, as well as the three-bedroom Presidential Suite, all of which offer magnificent views of the city and creek. 

The hotel’s infinity pool is the place to be at sunset as you watch the sun go down against the Dubai skyline backdrop. If you want to continue the relaxation journey, head to The Spa At Address, where a holistic wellness approach will help you feel rejuvenated. A jacuzzi fitness centre and yoga studio will further fuel your relaxation journey.

The hotel’s signature restaurant offers breakfast, lunch and dinner for guests, featuring global cuisine. Sit back and enjoy the creek views as you dine on delicious plates. As the evening closes in, unwind in the Cigar Lounge or head to the Patisserie in the main lobby area. For the ultimate in combining culinary and relaxing bliss, head to Luma Pool Lounge. Chefs will wow you with Mediterranean fusion cuisine as you dip in and out of the beautiful infinity pool and the enchanting views it offers. At sunset, there is no better place to sit back, sip a beverage, and decompress.

addresshotels.com/en/hotels/address- grand-creek-harbour 

Fendi has embarked on a diverse series of projects and collections that will cross the ‘part lines’ of the industry. The first chapter in the project, spearheaded by Kim Jones and Silvia Venturini Fendi, is a collaboration with Italian designer Stefano Pilati.

Pilati, who has worked for brands including Zegna and Saint Laurent, reaches a new conclusion for the house, going beyond gender and the notion of menswear and womenswear to create something more character-driven and iconoclastic.

“Stefano is one of the designers I admire the most. I was always in love with his work, and he is somebody I look up to – he has been an inspiration for what I do. Stefano epitomises Friends of FENDI: He is a friend, an inspiration and a designer for modern times, always looking to the future, asking questions and proffering solutions.” Said Kim Jones, Fendi’s Creative Director of womenswear.

“Milano versus Roma: I am from Milan, but there is a freedom in the Roman style that Milan does not have – there is always ‘more’. This is a coming together of two worlds, and I am so touched by the opportunity that Kim, Silvia and FENDI have given me to be so much myself while exploring theirs, the incomparable world of FENDI.” Added Stefano Pilati.

The collection, which debuts in selected Fendi stores this month, takes inspiration from the 1920s flapper era, reinterpreting it for today with a playful approach. Stefano is known for being a master of cut and construction, and he uses his expertise to reinvent and restructure classic pieces in new contemporary ways while breaking all the rules! The collection comprises garments that transcend genders. The rigour and construction of a masculine world are combined with a feminine linear curve, particularly in the tailoring, which features a softer, more voluminous construction.

Women’s tailoring is much more casual and can also be worn by men, while men’s tailoring is presented in silk and leather. Sever experiments in traditional construction take place throughout the collection. A new relaxed ‘basque’– in its traditional sense as a bodice – is featured in tailored trousers and skirts with a drawstring waistband, the soft bodice in a fabric that adheres to the contrasting cotton and silk shirting in the collection, flattering and extending the line of the body. This structure is also echoed in the collection’s dresses. 

As well as a series of ready-to-wear looks, the Friends of Fendi collection by Stefano Pilato features a range of accessories, including iconic and new shapes, reapproached with a new eye and curated in a collaboration between Silvia Venturini Fendi and Stefano Pilati. The new Baguette Twist features the FF buckle on the sides (as opposed to the fastening), and is crafted from colour-blocking smooth nappa leather. The new Fendi Boston 365 bag is presented in a modern, sleek design with a magnetic opening and hammered leather. A new, pillowy, softly constructed leather Baguette also makes a debut appearance; featuring a bold FENDI metallic logo script, the handle can also be worn as an ornament attached to the shoulder strap.

Jewellery, designed by Delfina Delettrez Fendi, also plays with codes of duality: the masculine and feminine, the bourgeois and the aristocratic, hard and soft. ‘Milanese’ mesh is utilised, dense but soft, overprinted with the dynamic Fendi logo while colours of metal mix in silver and gold. The classic and the obsessive become one: a watch strap aesthetic runs throughout, with this typically masculine decoration utilised for each gender through patterning traditionally seen on watches and lighters. There is a heaviness in the contrast of aristocratic rings, particularly sought in the symbol of the signet ring and how an individual wears it.

fendi.com

The first edition of Riyadh Fashion Week took place this October, with 29 Saudi brands presenting their latest collections across 15 runway shows in the country’s capital. The event gathered the regional and global fashion communities to showcase the best of Saudi design and highlight the country’s rapidly emerging fashion scene.

Burak Çakmak, CEO of the Saudi Fashion Commission who hosted the event, said: “For the first time ever, we are welcoming the global fashion community to the epicentre of Saudi fashion, here in Riyadh. The event will showcase the best of our creative talent, allowing yet another opportunity for our brands to connect with the world. Whether you join us in person or via the live stream, we can’t wait to highlight what Saudi fashion has to offer.”

The inaugural event was focused primarily on showcasing Saudi talent, spotlighting brands, and sharing the country’s talent with the rest of the world. There was a key focus on setting a new precedent in fashion while celebrating local creatives and sustainable craftsmanship.

The four-day event kicked off with a runway show by Saudi Arabian designer Mohammed Ashi, presenting the latest ASHI Studio collection. Ashi, who has become a regular on the international Haute Couture schedule, made his name in Paris thanks to the dramatic silhouettes whose masterful volumes marry heritage savoir-faire with the modernity of ultra-pure lines. As the designer returned to his home country for this exclusive show, he was inspired by the beauty of the desert and the shimmer of the stars.

“Mohammed Ashi has already made history as the first Saudi designer to join the ranks of haute couture. As a leader in Saudi fashion, we are incredibly honoured to invite him back to Saudi during another historical moment in time – Riyadh Fashion Week.” Said Çakmak. The one-night-only event which took place on October 20, saw Ashi showcase his latest collection titled “8pm”. The runway show featured 21 evening looks with influences ranging from the majesty of the country’s landscapes and Bedouin culture to the capital’s forward-looking architecture-inspired looks that evoke some of Ashi’s most emblematic creations.

Tailoring and cocktail and evening dresses appeared in shades of white, silver and oxblood, mingling fine tweed, 3D organza flowers and crystal embroideries. Past meets present in organic shapes and textures inspired by humble natural materials such as raffia, now rendered as precious as French lace. Sculptural evening gowns in silk satin surprise with graphic cut-outs or jewelled backs, corseted tops are embroidered, poetically, with wheat motifs — a house signature – and elements such as a sleeve, a skirt or a bodice are revisited with generously draped volumes for a heightened sense of drama. Throughout the collection, sensual, feminine shapes express modernity through movement and are worn by a cast of models who embody the region’s many kinds of beauty.

Across the four-day event, other designers presenting their collections on the runway included Atelier Hekayat, Kaf by Kaf, Arwa Al Banawi, Abadia, Tima Abed, Adnan Akbar and many more. There were strong themes of glamour, evening wear and connections to Saudi Arabia, highlighting craftsmanship and some of the country’s most beautiful highlights. 

There was a surprising and welcome return to the runway for Somali model Halima Aden. After a four-year hiatus from runway shows, Aden opened Hondaya’s runway show wearing an eye-catching space-inspired blue gown, connecting to The Kingdom’s quest to expand its space travel. The “Cosmos” collection honoured Rayyanah Barnawi, the first female Saudi astronaut to go into space. Aden closed the show, walking alongside Aden much to the delight of the audience.

With fashion a key element of Saudi’s cultural renaissance, His Excellency Hamed Fayez, Saudi Deputy Minister of Culture, supported the designers from the front row. Other notable attendees included German fashion influencer Leonie Hanne, Saudi actress Khairiah Abulaban, Egyptian singer Ahmed Saad, and the Emirati twins that have taken the fashion world by storm, Mohammed and Humaid Hadban.

In a first-of-its-kind activation, Snapchat partnered with Riyadh Fashion Week to create an immersive augmented reality experience, bringing brands to life in pop-up rooms that allowed guests to try on designs virtually. The event also championed the local female-owned make-up brand Asteri Beauty, the world’s first-ever desert-proof make-up, with guests gifted goodie bags and makeovers.

The event marked three years since the formation of the Saudi Fashion Commission, which was created to promote homegrown talent and raise awareness of Saudi designers around the world. After the event, Burak Çakmak, CEO of the Saudi Fashion Commission, said: “This week has been a dream come true. Riyadh Fashion Week is a prime example of our commitment to bringing the fashion industry together, highlighting a remarkable journey of transformation for the sector. “We are playing an integral role in driving economic growth and diversification while creating an environment for local talent to develop their skills and thrive on the global stage. I can’t thank the local and global community enough for coming together in Riyadh and supporting Saudi fashion. I can’t wait to see what’s next for Riyadh Fashion Week.

Momentum is set to continue, with the opening of the Commission’s Product Development Studio in the next few months. A space to support designers with the most advanced machinery, technology and expertise, the studio aims to foster the development of the fashion design community.

Prada presents a playful collection for the festive season, titled “The Prada December Issue,” it celebrates iconic heroines and heroes from cinema history. Styles reference cinematic moments that have defined eras throughout the past century.

The women’s collection features a series of pieces that fuse fragility with strength through pieces that are bold yet delicate in their details. With a colour palette of blush, green, lilac and grey, classic jackets and elegant dresses are glittered with embroideries enriching the surfaces of materials. Hems are tipped with feather embellishment, and duchesse satin is requisitioned to reinvent a man’s overcoat. The same silhouette is present in animalier pony hair, a piece that can be worn from day to night. 

Materials cling to the skin thanks to the use of stretch raso, which is utilised to create pieces with elegance and dynamism. They have an intimacy; a feeling reiterated through lingerie reference, delicate straps, fine knits, and transparencies revealing the body within. The focus on details continues throughout with crystal buttons and slip dresses in sablé or degradé crystal, held together with a microscopic chain at the shoulder.

The brand also references its own past with a re-edition dress from the brand’s Spring/summer 1995 collection. Meanwhile, in accessories, some of the brand’s most recognisable bags of the moment – the Galleria, the Odette, the Cleo – are reinvented in patent styles. The new Arqué bag is also presented in calf and Re-Nylon. Completing the offering, shoes are quintessentially Prada – slingback, sandals and mules, minimal shapes for men in brushed leather and patent. The Prada December Issue collection is available at selected stores now.

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Each year, Claire Choisne, Creative Director at Boucheron, looks forward to designing the brand’s high jewellery collection, also known within the Parisian masion as the “carte blanche” collection, thanks to the freedom of creativity surrounding it.

With high jewellery at Boucheron, there are no boundaries or limits on creativity, which is perhaps why, when she found herself bound to her home during the 2020 lockdown, her desire to create something bold and out-of-the-box was greater than ever. Unable to travel or even meet with her team face-to-face, Choisne had to take her inspiration from the internet and the situation she was in. She chose to rebel against the limits of lockdown and created “More is More”, a vibrant, rule-defining collection that takes high jewellery to new levels. She worked with never-used-before materials, bright colours and unexpected surprises to create perhaps the Maison’s most impactful offering yet. Here, we find out more about the challenges and achievements during the creation process of this truly special collection.

Tell us about the story and inspiration behind this year’s high jewellery collection.

We started working on the “More is More” collection in 2020, during the second lockdown. We were stuck at home, unable to go outside. There were too many constraints; we could not do anything. I felt really tired and hopeless. Every year, I love to travel to get inspired, and two days before a trip with my team in Africa, we had to cancel and replace it with a brainstorming session on Teams. Everyone was sad! We went on Pinterest and spent hours looking for inspiration. I needed colours and playfulness to offer joy as a remedy. Through this process, I found pictures of Memphis Milano (the Italian interiors and architecture group that was popular during the eighties); it reminded me of a happy time during my childhood. Using these pictures, we created a mood board, and it became the frame of the collection. I wanted my team and I to design whatever made us happy, in scales that made us happy, expressing whatever we wished to express. After that, it was quite easy to imagine the pieces. When I look back, I think it’s cool, how from a bad situation, you can achieve something so positive.

What are some of the highlight pieces for you this year?

I would start by talking about “Tie the Knot” which was one of the most challenging pieces. We wanted to push back the limits with a gigantic – yet ultra-lightweight – hair bow with red, black and white stripes. To get to that, we used magnesium, a material we’d never used before. It’s a metal that’s ten times lighter than gold. It naturally possesses an incredible resiliency for its weight, which is why it is widely used in the aerospace and medical industries 

However, it has never been used in a high jewellery collection. One of the greatest difficulties is that, unlike a gold prong, a magnesium prong is impossible to repair if it breaks as the diamonds are being set. For the Tie the Knot piece, the gem-setting step using magnesium was much more complex than it would have been using gold. The combination of diamonds and magnesium was a true first.

Another challenging piece was “In The Pocket”, and it’s one of my favourites. It may seem easy to create a high jewellery pocket that you can put on your garment, but in reality, when you start getting into the technique, you realise that a pocket is not like a necklace. A necklace is put around the neck, and it will be fine. A pocket, you have to be able to move with it, to sit down, to put your hand in it and that it supports the weight of a phone. It becomes much more complex to make than a necklace! We found the solution using a textile material, lycra, usually used in sportswear, and we combined it with titanium, four times lighter than gold. The pocket seems rigid on the photo, but titanium screws fix together a system of plates and counter plates printed in 3D and allow the pocket’s articulation. The pocket can be attached to a garment with two magnetised parts, and the fabric is held between these two elements. This structure is covered with onyx, diamonds, and grey lacquer. What I like is that in the end, it doesn’t show. The piece gives the feeling that it was simple and easy to make!

What are some of the biggest challenges you encountered during the creation process, and how did you overcome them?

For this collection, I did not want to consider any constraints because I realise, we usually restrict ourselves on a creative level. So that’s what that creative process was about: not caring about the constraints, going for what we wanted but then, taking responsibility for our choices and finding solutions to make it all work. It is a learning curve, when you use new materials or techniques to achieve your dream, you find yourself with a big toolbox of traditional and new tools that you can play around with in the future. It opens up the possibilities of creation in the industry. For each high jewellery collection, techniques are created that are linked to what we want to achieve in terms of aesthetics. Today’s innovation is tomorrow’s craftsmanship. You never get bored stepping out of your comfort zone!

So, we used several unexpected materials such as magnesium, red bio-acetate, blue Murano glass, or titanium dyed with a cataphoresis treatment to bring out pop colours and incredible volumes. It allowed us to craft the creations as they had been imagined while keeping them pleasant to wear. We made it: the pieces are here, and I’d love to have everyone’s opinion, but I sincerely think anyone discovering this collection will have a feeling of joy. 

The images that accompany the collection are quite different for the brand – tell us about this.

Our campaigns are always a reflection of the dream or the emotion we wish to convey through our collections. As we imagined the More is More collection during lockdown, at that time, the most precious thing for me was joy, which I wanted to express through the campaign. With my creative studio, we used the sketches that we drew on women’s and men’s portraits as a reference to create the campaign because it must be an extension of this story of joy, even further than what only the creations are showing. I’m so happy with the result because the casting, the colourful looks and the backgrounds are exactly what we imagined! It is an extension of this story of joy.

What are some of the positives and negatives of having such freedom around creating a collection?

I am very lucky to have unlimited freedom at Boucheron; it’s a privilege and a mission! Initially, I was unsure if people would accept my style, but over the past decade, my designs have slowly gained recognition, and now I am confident to go forward without fear. It used to be a type of intuition, which has now transformed into a dynamic power. Because I realised it always pays off! Everyone is different: some people are looking for the little black dress with Boucheron Histoire de Style collections, while others love the exuberant and unexpected dresses that we offer with our Carte Blanche collections. With CEO Hélène Poulit-Duquesne, we are lucky to be part of the Maison during a small period of its life and to be able to bring a very small stone to the building. It is our duty to be bold and push the boundaries of high jewellery by innovating and being as free as possible. We don’t want any regret; we want to know that we did everything we could for each collection without any constraint. And we do. Just like our founder, Frédéric Boucheron, we can be pioneers and try new things. It’s funnier and more interesting that way. As a Creative Director, I do not want to stay in this comfort zone; I do not want to hit snooze. I want to continue exploring, continue innovating, and continue to convey emotions through my creations. I intend to focus all my efforts so that the modern Boucheron collections will similarly remain for future generations. 

What is something you would still like to do with the brand that you haven’t done yet?

A lot of things! But I can’t say too much; it will be the subject of future collections.

To what extent do you still believe that high jewellery still has a place in society today?

I am lucky that I’ve been in this industry for over 25 years and at Boucheron for more than 12 years now. Over the last 5 to 10 years, we noticed the emergence in society of a new clientele in high jewellery who are more sensitive to the creativity and the emotional storytelling of the pieces than to the actual value. This trend is linked to the shifting balance toward younger clients, women, and men, especially in Asia and more specifically in China. Beyond the value of stones and materials, the value of our collections, therefore, lies in the deep emotion it offers.

Personally, what I find most attractive in this industry is pushing the limits of high jewellery, and associating traditional know-how with innovation to extend the possibility of creation. I believe that high jewellery is at the service of emotion and poetry, and it is our duty to question the precious. The great benefit of this alliance in design is the freedom to create, which allows us to explore territories of experimentation without setting limits. As a cutting-edge high jewellery maison, we allow ourselves to test and play with new materials or techniques never used in high jewellery as long as they help us express this creative dream. It must precisely fade away to make way for dreams, art, and emotion. I strive to give our best, and I believe that the pieces will find their way to those who will buy them with love. The important thing is to maintain a good balance between traditional techniques and digital technology without setting limits, even if it means looking for creative solutions in other industries.

What do you think women are looking for from jewellery today?

I think that more and more women are buying pieces themselves because they wish to wear them, not leave them locked away in a safe. It is becoming a luxury accessory which allows women to find their own style. It is no longer a status symbol but a style story. At Boucheron, we say that we propose, we never impose but rather propose a wide choice for our clients. For example, in our jewellery collections, the Quatre clip earrings give you the total freedom to compose your own style. They can be worn in a classic way as earrings but can also be seen as versatile pieces and be placed on a hat, the lapel of a jacket, or even transformed into hair clips. I hope when people wear jewellery I design, it can express who they are and their personal style. Hence, a good piece of jewellery is versatile and can be worn daily as a signature of style. Through Boucheron’s collections, I want to help men and women to assume their own style and tell their own story. We open up the possibilities through the design and the way we shoot our campaigns, but the most important thing is that men and women feel good and comfortable with the pieces they wear. 

How do you continue to be inspired and be original?

Personally, working on the same theme and style again and again isn’t interesting for me. My creative process is very intuitive; it’s guided by an inspiration, a moment, a dream.

Inspiration can come from absolutely anywhere and is constantly evolving! Mine is mainly visual; it can be a trip, a movie, a photo… many different things. The important aspect is to keep your eyes open to the world to catch these inspirations. I love nature. I spend a lot of time in Portugal surrounded by nature, and I think that is when I’m most creative and inspired. When I’m there, ideas pop into my head easily. The moments when I’m travelling are the times that are the best for my creativity. That’s why, before designing a new high jewellery collection, I plan an “inspirational travel” trip every year with my team. For example, in 2019, I had the chance to travel to Mexico to see the work of architect Luis Barragan, to visit one of the houses he designed, and to spend some time with one of his former associates. It was a great source of inspiration for the Carte Blanche, Holographique collection unveiled in 2021, to find a new approach around the theme of colours by exploring its link with light.

What is the motto that you live by?

Freedom to create! As a jewellery designer, you have to trust and always listen to yourself, and never give up your ideas to avoid soft or banal designs. Don’t be afraid to have strong ideas; believe in them and always stick to them. There will always be people to prevent us from believing in them, but go for it, because it will bring you infinite happiness!

How would you describe this collection in one word?

Joy!

Boucheron.com

Nature has been at the heart of Chaumet’s collections since its founding in 1780. This year’s high jewellery collection Le Jardin de Chaumet, poetically highlights this connection with the natural world, taking you on a journey through beautiful lands, embracing the world’s untouched beauty. The collection sees everyday natural objects – flowers, wheat, vines, leaves – presented in a romantic and enchanting way, using the finest savoir-faire and creativity to bring these beautiful pieces to life. The 68-piece collection undoubtedly posed challenges for the 12 Vendôme workshop, where the Maison’s experts worked tirelessly to achieve these works of art.

Heading up the workshop is Benoît Verhulle, who took on this crucial role in 2017 after working as a jeweller for many years. Verhulle’s role is to support the team that crafts the pieces, ensuring they are brought to life with the best results possible. With the collection one of the brand’s most beautiful yet, we take a deep dive into the savoir-faire and creation process behind the pieces.

Take us through the story and inspiration behind this year’s high jewellery collection.

It’s in Chaumet’s DNA where one finds the natural aspect, the naturalist, nature, and this botanical vision. The goal was that we could immediately recognise and name a plant or flower when looking at our creations. There is also a keen sense of detail to capture this naturalist side. The collection follows the Maison’s esteemed legacy.

What are some of the highlight pieces for you this year?

The Wheat necklace encapsulates a subject dear to the Maison, and we’ve covered it several times before. We brought something new to this collection, something never done before – a necklace with three different worn styles – the yellow gold wheat necklace, the calibrated white gold necklace, and both worn together. The ingenious part of this necklace is that it has a single mechanism for all three versions. The Bark necklace with its stunning opal; for this creation, it’s more about the opal defining the necklace. The Iris necklace has the advantage of dual wear: the husband can wear the brooch, and the wife can wear the necklace. The entire collection features magnificent stones, such as the emeralds in the Mistletoe set. In my opinion, creating this collection was a real joy because it carries many messages and aligns perfectly with the Maison’s DNA, featuring transformable pieces, some more daring designs, and the Pansy choker-like second skin. The Maison’s codes are still present, with the “fil-couteau” technique resembling the Rouen collar.

There is a slight variation with the Chrysanthemum and Magnolia where the gold is textured as seen in the Golden Age exhibition, with a very metallic aspect and modernity with the Empress cut. As for the Fern set, it is simple and effective, with small stones but a lot of technique: three large articulated Fern leaves. 

Tell us about some of the savoir-faire processes used in this collection.

The “fil-couteau” technique and pave setting with 8×8 diamonds (Wheat, Mistletoe, Pansy,…) On the figurative parts of the jewellery, the gold has been worked on, and sculpted, and is less mechanised.

What about the choice of stones?

During their travels, our stone buyers look for the most exciting stones for the Maison, and then we build collections around these stones.

Tell us about the creation process from the sketch to the final piece.

We begin with a drawing, sometimes a shape, that inspires us to begin imagining what they desire. Then, it’s up to us to run various tests and find the best jeweller for this collection. The designer is always open to suggestions and expects us to make them. The primary goal is to find the aesthetic; multiple possibilities can emerge depending on the craftsman. We continue to exchange ideas with the studio until the piece is finalised.

How do you ensure the process runs according to time and that the final piece reflects the initial vision?

For each collection and piece, I must select the jewellers, setters, and polishers. We then establish a retro-planning schedule with the project managers, highlighting key moments for each collection: dates for aesthetic validation, validation in white (piece without stones), followed by the paving of the piece, polishing, and final touches. 

What are some of the biggest challenges you encountered during the creation process, and how did you overcome them?

We were initially concerned about the Wheat Necklace because it was a very covering and rigid necklace. The aesthetic was established first, followed by technique, flexibility, and movements. The 3-in-1 wearing system with a single clasp presented a technical challenge. Every creation/jewel remains a challenge in terms of finding that extra something that ensures it truly conforms to the Chaumet style.

How important do you believe it is for jewellery to still be handmade today?

It’s our profession, our DNA, and the strength of our workshop. There’s always a manual aspect. With 3D design, the jeweller forms a part of their interpretation, their art; otherwise, it becomes assembly mechanical. Handcrafting is similar to writing a love letter. Do we really want to write a love letter on a computer? It doesn’t have the same sensitivity or soul. It’s also the flaws, the imperfections, that make the jewel unique. 

What is Chaumet doing to sustain the atelier for future generations, and how do you educate aspiring artisans?

There are currently four apprentices in the workshop. It’s a profession where experience and dedication are crucial. We select our apprentices based on their sensitivity and then train them by sharing our expertise. The objective is to push them even further, to allow them to develop in areas where they may be less comfortable. When you can convey your passion, you can push people even further in their work.

How much does Chaumet get inspired by its archival pieces for new designs?

All the time we are fortunate to have an archive stock of about 600,000 drawings. We draw a lot of inspiration from what our predecessors did. In fact, there are still so many things in our archives that amaze us, like the pieces from the “Golden Age” (Un Age d’Or) exhibition. The Wheat Tiara from 1800 versus the latest Wheat Tiara in 2023: there’s a world of difference between the two, but we have the same subject and a way of doing things that remains similar and consistent. Our heritage is also our testimony to what happened in the world in a specific era. 

What is the professional motto you live by?

Never be satisfied, always in anticipation of challenging myself. I always look forward to the next collection to always see what’s next.

When and how did your passion for jewellery begin?

I discovered jewellery at the age of 12 while walking the streets of Toulouse when I saw an artisan working in his shop. I was glued to the window; I told my mother: this is what I want to do. It stayed with me; I was lucky that my parents supported me and helped me to do a Certificate of Professional Aptitude (CAP) in Art and Techniques of Jewellery. And since then, the years have just flown by. It’s truly a profession of passion. We are fortunate; we bring objects to life. And now, I have this role of passing on, transmitting not only the craftsmanship but also my passion.

What is a message you would send to our readers about this collection?

Transmission is not only the savoir-faire but also the values of the Maison. Having the naturalist jeweller aspect, reflects tradition and modernity.

How would you describe this collection in one word?

Naturalist.

chaumet.com

Diriyah, the cultural capital of Saudi Arabia, hosted its first-ever arts and fashion exhibition last month, with a host of showcases showing the best of art and design as well as highlighting the tradition and culture of the region.

Diriyah Company partnered with renowned international Saudi Designer Abdulrahman Al-Romaizan, (founder and creative director of RAMZEN) to present an extraordinary fusion of art and fashion in Bujairi Terrace, the region’s premier dining destination overlooking the majestic UNESCO World Heritage Site of At-Turaif, and the verdant Wadi Hanifah.

The show featured RAMZEN’s latest collection, which was inspired by the beauty and culture of Diriyah and its rich heritage. “This haute couture collection features 60 looks inspired by the history, art and beautiful elements that are showcased within Diriyah. It is a celebration of the past, incorporating old Saudi techniques and aspects of traditional Saudi dress, but these influences were reinterpreted in ways that have never been seen before.” Said Al Romaizan. “Some looks feature visual components inspired by At-Turaif, the City of Earth. The colours of this singular landscape are woven into many of the designs. At the same time, half of the collection is contemporary and timeless, with Saudi patterns and lovely Najdi style subtly incorporated in these one-of-a-kind fashion statements with international appeal.” He added.

The collection was crafted in Italy, using the finest materials, hand-sewn by expert artisans. “RAMZEN is wearable art for thinkers, risk- takers and romantics. We are a global brand that believes fashion unites us, and we strive to create designs that appeal to fashion lovers worldwide. Our international following is a gift that gives us insights into the fashion dreams and desires of a diverse audience. While the City of Earth Collection resonates with Saudi fans of the brand in particular, the designs are contemporary and have broad appeal far beyond the region.” Al Romaizan added.

The festival also saw a week-long art exhibition at Bujairi Terrace, which included a collection of creative artworks of Saudi designers. The exhibition was in collaboration with Athr Gallery and was complemented by a musical performance by Saudi artists, who played a selection of distinctive melodies and musical pieces amidst an atmosphere that blended the essence of Diriyah’s rich culture and heritage with the artistic creations of Saudi talents.

The partnership represents a shared commitment to promoting local talent, fostering innovation, and strengthening the position of Saudi Arabia as a global fashion hub. 

Ramzen

If you aren’t familiar with the name Jenny Packham, you would have undoubtedly seen one of her elegant dresses. The British designer has become the go-to dressmaker for everyone from Catherine, Princess of Wales, to Sarah Jessica Parker, Adele, Paris Hilton, Angelina Jolie, and so many more in between. Packham’s feminine silhouettes, sequin-detailed gowns and eye-catching hues mean that she has become one of the most sought-after red carpet and bridal designers in the world.

Studying at the prestigious Central Saint Martin College of Art and Design in London, Packham was one of the first of a long line of alums that includes Lee (Alexander) McQueen, John Galliano, Stella McCartney, Phoebe Philo, Christopher Kane and more. After graduating, Packham launched her eponymous label in 1988, with her first designs presented at the London Design Show. Over the years, Packham has designed numerous iconic dresses and gowns. For the Princess of Wales, she designed the gold dress she wore to the London premiere of James Bond film No Time To Die, and she also created looks worn by Kim Cattrall’s character Samantha Jones in Sex and The City.

Packham’s design style is instantly recognisable. With sculptural silhouettes celebrating the female form, unrivalled craftsmanship and that all-important sparkle. Packham’s dedication to creating responsible, sustainable fashion is key to her success as she continually strives to reduce her brand’s environmental impact, incorporating ethically sourced materials where possible and promoting fair trade practices.

This month, Packham is launching her Resort 24 collection and an exclusive capsule collection at Bloomingdale’s Dubai. Inspired by the vibrancy of the ocean and her collaboration with Ocean Rising—an initiative from the Schmidt Ocean Institute and Nekton—the Resort 24 collection is a celebration of the deep blue. At the same time, the capsule is a colourful array of styles perfect for women in the Middle East. Here, we find out more about what to expect.

What can we expect from the Resort 24 collection?

The collection is vibrant with jewel-inspired colours and lots of sparkle. Featuring sharp, architectural crepes with powerful shoulders and sweeping silk chiffons. The Resort 24 collection exudes an attitude of modern femininity.

What can you tell us about your brand in the Middle East?

It has been one of our most important markets for many years. I have always found the client’s love of eveningwear so inspiring.

What about the exclusive Capsule collection at Bloomingdale’s Dubai?

The capsule features six styles in platinum, cherry blossom, and jewelled tones. I wanted the collection to encapsulate the energy of the wonderful events they will be worn to and reflect the glamorous women who wear them.

We used sumptuous light fabrics embellished with delicate beadwork on some of our best-selling silhouettes: a chiffon wrap dress, embellished caped gowns and column dresses with statement sleeves. My favourite look is a platinum-caped ball gown scattered with sequins and hot fix crystals.

What else is in the pipeline for the brand in the coming year?

I am currently designing our new Spring bridal collection and finalising our AW24 Collections, which we’ll be presenting in Paris early next year. We’re also designing pieces for a collaboration, which we’ll be announcing in the new year; I love that my work leads me to collaborative projects that push me out of my creative comfort zone. 

You have had an impressive career – what have been her biggest achievements over the years?

2023 marks 35 years of the brand. Fashion is a tough game, and you have to have the passion and the ability to adapt – so I think my biggest achievement is that I’m still designing and doing what I love.

You have dressed so many incredible women – are there any favourite looks you can share, and is there anyone you would like to dress?

I’ve been incredibly lucky to have dressed so many inspiring women from across the globe, including Adele, Paris Hilton, Angelina Jolie, Helen Mirren and Taylor Swift. I am always so proud of every one of our dresses that are worn on the red carpet; however, those with the wild anecdotes are always my favourite! We once made a dress for Kate Winslet in 4 days, our studio worked around the clock, and she looked iconic. I’d love to dress Cate Blanchett; I love her red carpet style. 

What inspires you, and when are you at your most creative?

Living in London, I am very lucky to have access to some of the world’s most amazing galleries and exhibitions, but there is something very rewarding about being inspired in the most unexpected places: a corporate boardroom or in a queue at the airport! Travelling always ignites my creative thoughts, and I often come back from a trip brimming with ideas for our next collection.

What is the professional motto you live by?

Be true to yourself, find a niche and don’t give up.

How would you describe your own style?

Like most women, I dress for myself and when shopping, fabrication and fit are very important to me. I love Dries Van Noten, and his use of prints and colours, and I have lots of his pieces in my wardrobe. 

jennypackham.com