A new exhibition has landed in Dubai, highlighting the immense landscapes of our world and the harmful impact of climate change on some of nature’s most treasured destinations. Three stories take viewers on a journey to the intersection of the world’s three tallest mountain ranges – the Karakoram, Himalaya and Hindu Kush- showcasing some breathtaking landscapes and mountain ranges.

The stories illustrate the harmful impacts of climate change on our natural world. Once-glacial peaks, a defining feature of these mountains, now gradually wither away, causing calamities that ripple within Pakistan and far beyond its borders.

Sara – The North 2

The exhibition, which is taking place at ICD Brookfield Palce in association with Dastaangoi Gallery, follows the journey of three artists from the prestigious Florence Academy of the Arts: Austrian painter Louis Szápáry, Finnish-American painter Saara Knapp, British painter Phoebe Stewart Carter, along with the Dastaangoi team. Their perspectives uniquely frame the narratives interwoven within these landscapes.

The North is a first-of-its-kind exhibition that transcends beyond the paint, evoking emotions beyond your anticipation. Malak Abu Qaoud, Arts & Events Manager at ICD Brookfield Place, states;

“At ICD Brookfield Place, we proudly unveil “The North”, an exhibition that delves into the profound impacts of climate change on our environment. As advocates of sustainability, this showcase aligns with one of our fundamental pillars, underscoring our commitment to a greener future.” 

Louis – The North 3

Curated by Dastaangoi’s co-founder Amad Mian, “The North is an exhibition that transcends borders and paints; it is a desperate call for awareness on what is happening at the forefront of our generation with the climate crises.”

The exhibition runs from August 24 to September 23, 2023, at ICD Brookfield Place, Level 1. 

The temperatures may be (slowly) cooling down, but there’s still time to discover this must-try summer menu from one of Dubai’s most-loved restaurants, Flamingo Room by tashas.

Known for its opulent interiors and laid-back setting, Flamingo Room by tashas is the perfect summer place. Founded by Sideris, whose portfolio includes ‘Avli by tashas, Bungalo34, Galaxy Bar and tashas café’, it combines the best South African cuisine with playful, elegant interiors.

Scallops

Flamingo Room offers a carefully curated menu that’s perfect for the warmer months. Curated under the guidance of Jill Okkers, Culinary Director at Tashas Group, the menu features South African time-honoured recipes with a modern twist.

The colourful menu features a selection of fresh and light dishes. Our recommendations include the Tuna Tartare with garlic chips, sesame seeds, macerated apricots and sweet pea shoots, and the Sea Bream Crudo and Classic Beef Carpaccio with mustard aioli dressing.

Strawberries and Cream

For the main course, the Pan Seared Sea Bass topped with fresh herbs, toasted coriander seeds, and artichoke, is an absolute must-try, while the Scallop Pasta offers the perfect balance between lightness and indulgence.

Finally, finish your meal with a colourful selection of desserts, including Strawberries and Cream and Lizel’s Lemon Meringue Tart, all paired with a carefully curated selection of cocktails.

https://www.flamingoroombytashas.com/

If you’ve visited London this summer, you may well have seen the lines of stylish shoppers gathering at the rear side of iconic department store Harrods. It’s most likely that you witnessed the growing hype around the ever-so-stylish Prada Caffè.

Prada’s latest venture has seen the brand open an elegantly branded popup eatery located within the historical Knightsbridge store.

This delectable destination invites shoppers to discover the entire universe of Prada, immersing themselves in the brand’s DNA.

The interiors of this cosy café feature Prada’s visual hallmarks, with every choice – from. From the tableware to the furniture, everything has a touch of Italian magic. The walls, ceilings and velvet-upholstered sofas and armchairs are delicately coloured with the brand’s iconic green. At the same time, the floors feature the black-and-white chequered floor of the historic Prada boutique on Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II in Milan.

Once you’re settled in, it’s time to see what’s on the menu, which of course, is filled with Prada-branded treats and Italian specialities. Highlights include the risotto with saffron and Parmesan, the parmigiana and the veal Milanese.

If you have a sweet tooth, make sure you save space for dessert with highlights including handmade Prada-branded pastries (perfect for your insta-feed), and a selection of traditional Gelato.

Outside, a fabulous summer terrace awaits, where guests enjoy an ice-cold spritz or gelato from the ice-cream stall – also available to takeaway.

Prada Caffè will be open until January 2024, from 9 AM to 9 PM Monday to Saturday and from 12 PM to 6 PM on Sunday, with an entrance on Hans Road at the backside of Harrods, Knightsbridge, London.

With so many skincare brands and solutions out there, it can be overwhelming when deciding which products are right for you, especially if you have specific issues to focus on.

pHformula blurs the lines of science and beauty to offer results-driven treatments unique to every client, according to their skin type and needs. Phformula was founded in Barcelona by Petru van Zyl after she realised the lack in the market for result-driven products and treatments that really focus on some of today’s major skin problems. Petru decided to take things into her own hands and soon developed a system between cosmeceuticals and the physician’s practice to provide visible results. In 35 countries worldwide, pHformula has gained a cult following in Europe, South America, Australia and now The Middle East. We learn more about this unique system and why it could solve all your skincare problems.

Tell us about the pHformula brand and how it came to life.

In many ways, the pHformula brand story is a very personal one. I first became aware of my passion for skincare when I developed acne in my late teens. I became a qualified skincare therapist and specialist and worked hard to understand the skin and its disorders and the science behind formulations that work. I began to realise that in the professional space, there was a fundamental lack of options to customise products and treatments according to the needs of the client’s skin. With my hands-on experience and working with many different skin types, I soon realised that most of us have more than one skin disorder or concern requiring specific treatments.

I grew up in South Africa, so I’ve been working on various skin phototypes all my life. Darker skin is much more prone to post-inflammatory hyper-pigmentation (P.I.H.) risks. I also identify personally with extreme weather conditions that inevitably lead to skin sensitivities. I felt very frustrated with the results I could achieve with the limited protocols available on the market – and the fact that I could not customise treatments. Added to this was the fact that the only results-driven treatment options available at the time were traditional chemical peelings. I worked for many years with this. While chemical peelings have amazing results and benefits, they also have undesirable side effects, especially when working with strong acids and darker skin phototypes. This was a compelling and big motivation for me to develop a professional treatment system with pHformula’s philosophy of a product line committed to controlled skin resurfacing instead of chemical peeling.

A.C. homecare kit products

What makes pHformula different from other skincare brands today?

pHformula is a professional dermatological skin resurfacing treatment system, internationally renowned for using pharma-grade ingredients and a unique delivery vehicle complex named PH-DVC™. On the contrary, most professional skincare brands are focused on active ingredients and not necessarily synergism and the delivery of those ingredients.

One of the components of the PH-DVC™ delivery vehicle complex is a delivery system that entraps active ingredients and releases them gradually and with control. This improves penetration and a homogeneous delivery and incorporates two extra elements that work in synergy to soothe the skin and metabolically activate the cells for enhanced results. It is important to understand that it is a tiny structure composed of lipids and water. The lipidic external structure plays a key role in skin penetration since it is an analogue skin structure. This lipidic portion of the delivery system carries the oil-soluble ingredients of the formulation.

On the other hand, the other portion of the delivery is an encapsulated micro-polarised water. This is very important to entrap water-soluble elements of the formula. Most professional skincare brands are not necessarily focused on the science behind synergism and the delivery of the ingredients. In contrast, pHformula is scientifically focused on maximum efficacy in the treatment room of the skin specialist.

In many ways, we have changed the thinking of the skin specialist by moving away from traditional skin peeling and introducing controlled chemical skin resurfacing with the main function and properties of rebuilding skin rather than just chemically peeling the skin. It becomes healthier, more resilient, and responsive to a maintenance regime by rebuilding the skin.

A.C. recovery, 30ml

Tell us about the resurfacing system process, what it means and how it works.

I have found my passion in acids for many years, but working with them is challenging. Traditional peelings provide clear skin changes but are tough to work with. From a skin specialist’s perspective, it is a complicated task, neutralising the acids and leaving skin prone to complications. Chemically speaking, traditional peelings will easily oxidise surface skin, losing some proton-release action. This drove me to develop a controlled resurfacing system, overcoming most of the challenges I faced when applying the acids to the skin.

Our PH-DVC™ delivery vehicle complex is key to reaching inside-out results, maximising the ingredient’s potential, and reducing side effects. We use pharma-grade ingredients (the highest and purest quality raw materials) in our product formulations and our approach to resurfacing chemical skin. We practice the art of controlled chemical skin resurfacing at a pharma-cosmeceutical level. Our non-invasive, customised skin resurfacing treatments target the specific needs of our four identified skin disorders ranging from ageing, hyperpigmentation, and chronic redness to acne-prone skin, where key ingredients are applied to the skin combined with acids and our unique delivery vehicle complex named PH-DVC™.

All the elements together deliver protons to the different layers of the skin in a controlled manner — this release of protons results in accelerated cell turnover and optimum skin regeneration with no downtime. Our skin resurfacing treatments are supported by a range of specific home care products to support the prescribed treatment. These home care products are designed to work in synergy with professional treatments and our unique delivery vehicle complex (PH-DVC™).

SOS Rescue Oil, 30ml

How do you balance the fine line between science and beauty with your products?

At pHformula, this is a crucial aspect of our research and development. It is an ongoing commitment for us to achieve and maintain this balance which includes:

Scientific research: Understanding the market’s needs, using innovative ingredients and complexes to deliver relevant benefits.

Ingredient selection: Choosing ingredients based on scientific evidence, quality grade, synergy, and compatibility with other components.

Formulations: Ingredients with breakthrough mechanisms of action while always considering pleasant textures.

Safety and Results: Rigorous testing and regulatory compliance to build trust with the professional community and the end-user.

Additionally, we focus on providing transparency about the science behind our products, continuous innovation and canvassing feedback from our skin specialists and consumers.

How do your products work for different skin types?

Thanks to more than 30 years of experience and research, pHformula focus on optimum skin health of each skin tone. Our skin resurfacing treatments and homecare prescriptions are an art in our skin specialists’ hands, as not all skin types require the same treatment. It’s important to understand that different skin types have different tolerance and sensitivity levels. pHformula takes an innovative stance by analysing the different phototypes and what each one needs to attain its optimum skin health, whether it is the improvement of signs of ageing, hyperpigmentation, acne or chronic redness.

A.C.T.I.V.E. formula 30ml

What about those with susceptible skin? Can they use pHformula products?

Applying acids to the skin is challenging, and redness and inflammation may occur, especially if you have sensitive skin. To combat this, we incorporate a soothing element within our skin-resurfacing products. This soothing ingredient specifically blocks one of the skin’s most important inflammatory pathways: arachidonic acid. The advantages of incorporating this natural origin ingredient are less skin irritation and reduction of the proinflammatory peptides. But at the same time, this ingredient enhances penetration of active ingredients, so the effectivity of the treatments can be increased.

We also have a unique way of testing skin sensitivity with a product named S.P. complex in every treatment session. By applying the S.P. complex, the skin specialist can determine if the patient’s skin is resilient, sensitive, or very sensitive. The skin specialist then adapts the protocol and applies products at the correct strength according to skin sensitivity.

What are the timelines for expected results?

PHformula skin resurfacing treatments aim to achieve healthy-looking skin, and the mechanism of action of our unique skin resurfacing formulations starts working from the moment you apply the product. Although significant skin improvement is visible after the first session, pHformula recommends a treatment plan of 4-6 sessions to restore skin health.

Benefits include increased cellular oxygenation. The more efficiently a cell consumes oxygen, the less oxygen is available to become excited to form destructive reactive oxygen species (R.O.S.). This also increases cellular metabolism and directly impacts the mitochondria.

It is fascinating that our products will also collaborate in the healing process, promoting collagen and elastin synthesis and helping to reduce inflammation due to their soothing effect. That is in synergy with the soothing element we discussed before.

Finally, one of the properties I love the most is that it can potentiate the activity of other active ingredients in synergy with both elements (delivery and soothing). We recommend a course of treatments and continued home care use to achieve optimum results.

A.G.E. recovery kit

What are some of the most common mistakes women make with skincare today?

It’s not an easy answer because every person’s skin needs and concerns differ. Nevertheless, there are a few general mistakes that people tend to make regarding their skincare routines:

• Moisturising is vital for hydrating the skin and maintaining its barrier function, so never skip it.
• Over-cleansing your skin or using harsh products can disrupt the skin barrier. Choose a gentle cleanser suitable to your skin type and avoid over-washing.
• Leaving makeup on overnight can clog pores and cause blemishes and dull skin.
• Not using sunscreen every day.
• Skincare shouldn’t stop at the face. The neck and décolletage are often missed, leading to signs of ageing appearing more prominently in those areas.
• Picking at blemishes can lead to inflammation, scarring, and further breakouts.

What is the plan for pHformula in the Middle East?

We started to get more and more enquiries from people wanting to experience our treatments and products in the Middle East. Our product line is perfect for the Middle Eastern market, and we are focused on selectively choosing our skincare centres and skin specialists. We have had great interest and are already present in some of the most prestigious aesthetic skin care centres and medispas such as Ouronyx.

Are there any products that would be beneficial to women in the region?

I believe that women are looking for products that will boost their self-confidence – and nothing boosts a woman’s confidence as much as healthy, beautiful skin. PHformula skin resurfacing treatments aim to achieve healthy-looking skin.

The following treatments and homecare products are extremely beneficial for the overall restoration of skin health: C.R. Complex Skin Resurfacing Treatment and Homecare, A.C. Solutions Skin Resurfacing Treatments and Homecare, A.G.E. Solutions Skin Resurfacing Treatments and Homecare, and M.E.L.A. Powerclay Skin Resurfacing Treatments and Homecare. 

Where would you like to see pHformula in five years?

Besides seeing pHformula and the innovative art of skin health well established in the Middle East, I believe we are tasked with a higher purpose. This view can be summed up as ‘Doing Well by Doing Good’. By this definition, I would like to see pHformula continue growing in its social responsibilities and sustainability. The world is changing very quickly, and many opportunities embody these values.

P.O.S.T recovery cream, 50ml

We know you have travelled the world a lot – what are some of the lessons you have learnt?

Travelling taught me some of life’s most valuable lessons. It expands my mind and keeps me in that enthusiastic curiosity and creative openness. As a skin specialist focused on research and education, I’ve learned countless lessons from people and professionals in our industry worldwide. Still, the biggest takeaway would be that you can learn something valuable from anyone, anywhere, so always listen.

What is the professional motto that you live by?

Start doing today what will matter most tomorrow.

What else is in the pipeline for the rest of the year?

I am very excited about the relaunch of our E.Y.E. lift serum. It’s already a part of our range, but we have recently added new ingredients and will be relaunching it later this year. It’s a 5-in-1 lightweight, innovative formulation with flash and long-term lifting effects. It also includes a special glass-touch roller-ball applicator that provides controlled application and a feeling of freshness.

We will also reveal and independently certify the results of our C.R. 1 complex – formulated with the upgraded delivery vehicle complex (PH-DVC™) and used in synergy with the C.R. homecare regime – we have started clinical studies around this. C.R. skin resurfacing treatment is innovative due to its ability to improve redness (acute and chronic) with acids achieving outstanding results. The purpose of the study is to have solid quantification of the results, to provide all our skin specialists and medical professionals with powerful objective data and to certify the efficacy and high quality of our pHformula skin resurfacing treatments with its unique delivery vehicle complex.

What message would you send our readers for them to understand more about pHformula?

Our skin specialists are qualified and trained to not only professionally assess your skin but also to customise your treatment and homecare prescriptions to best fit your skin’s needs and the results you would like to see. Having a skin specialist looking after your skin and regularly going for treatments will have visible results you cannot imagine, and it will be the best investment in self-care you can ever make.

Prada’s Fall/Winter men’s and women’s collections rediscover the ideas of beauty with looks that explore the fundamentals of fashion. See more below in our latest editorial shoot.

Photography: John Rowley
Styling & Direction: Lindsay Judge
Models: Emilie at M&P, Harrison at Supa
Hair and Makeup: Lisa Valencia
Location: Saint Margaret’s at Cliffe, United Kingdom

SHE WEARS: Suede Jacket Cashmere Wool Sweater Cotton Padded Mini Skirt
HE WEARS: Mohair Wool Suit Jacket Mohair Wool Pants Brushed Leather Tote All Prada

Technical Fabric Suit Jacket Shetland Wool Cardigan Stretch Natté Pants Opaque Brushed Leather Lace-Up Shoes
All Prada

SHE WEARS: Velour Cloth Coat
HE WEARS:
Cotton Padded Top Suede Jacket Stretch Natté Pants All Prada

Wool & Cashmere Cardigan, Stretch Natté Pants, Brushed Leather Sneakers, Brushed Leather Tote
All Prada

Gabardine Nattè Jacket with Contrasting Collar, Gabardine Nattè Trousers,
Brushed Leather Tote
All Prada

Cloth and Leather Coat, Gabardine Nattè Skirt, Pumps
All Prada

In the past few years, Saudi Arabia has evolved into a country with so much promise, excitement, and opportunity. A country built on its oil and gas production, this multi-million dollar industry has been the nation’s driving force for decades. But that’s all about to change.

As the country opens up to tourists and develops significantly in all sectors, it opens a huge window for the fashion industry. Saudi Arabia is a minefield of creative talent, much of it untouched, with immense room for development and growth from a primarily overlooked nation when it comes to the fashion industry to a potential global leader.

The Saudi Arabian Government has created The Saudi Fashion Commission to oversee and guide this development. The Commission has set out to evolve The Kingdom’s fashion industry through culture, amplifying Saudi heritage and identity while responding to global needs and impacting the national economy. It will support and develop talented Saudi designers and creatives and promote a sustainable approach to fashion.

Leading the Commission’s key objectives is CEO Burak Çakmak. Çakmak has decades of experience in the global fashion industry, working with some of the world’s biggest brands in key positions. Since joining the Fashion Commission, Burak has spearheaded the implementation of Saudi 100 Brands, selecting some of the country’s most promising designers, showcasing their work on global platforms such as Paris and Milan Fashion Week, and allowing them to develop their talent further. With the recent announcement of the first Saudi Fashion Week taking place this October, we talked to Çakmak to learn more about this industry of opportunity. 

State of Fashion Report – Panel discussion

Tell us about the concept and vision of the Saudi Fashion Commission. 

The Fashion Commission, established in 2020, plays a vital role in promoting Saudi Arabia’s fashion industry. It attracts investments, establishes regulations, and provides essential resources to support aspiring Saudi fashion talents. The Commission also prioritises the preservation of Saudi Arabia’s fashion heritage and empowers local designers. Operating under the Ministry of Culture, the Commission fosters a vibrant cultural sector, safeguarding traditions that contribute to the Kingdom’s unique identity.

Our vision is dedicated to building a forward-thinking fashion industry that amplifies Saudi heritage and identity while addressing global demands, ultimately benefiting the national economy.|

You have extensive experience in the industry on a global scale; how are you using that to help elevate the work that is now being done with the Saudi Fashion Commission?

I am fortunate to have had the opportunity to work with many prestigious international organisations, and my previous roles have prepared me to help lay the foundations of the fashion sector in Saudi Arabia. There are abundant untapped opportunities for creative individuals in the Kingdom, which further motivates me to elevate the work of Saudi designers. The Commission is implementing multiple initiatives aimed at increasing the capacity and potential of local talents, creating a thriving environment that fosters creativity, innovation, and collaboration within fashion communities across the world.

How would you assess the fashion industry in Saudi Arabia currently?

Since its inception, the fashion sector in Saudi Arabia has witnessed remarkable growth. Predictions indicate that by 2025, the demand for fashion products in Saudi Arabia will surge by an impressive 48%, with the fashion industry forecast to reach US$32 billion. Moreover, the industry is expected to demonstrate the highest growth rates among all large, high-income markets over the next three years. Our exceptionally skilled designers have achieved remarkable milestones throughout this period of rapid expansion, showcasing their exceptional success and talent on the global stage at events, including Paris and Milan fashion weeks.

We recently saw the events hosted by the Commission in Paris – tell us about this and what the feedback has been like so far. 

Over the last few weeks, we have successfully organised various events in Paris, including launching the “State of Fashion in the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia 2023” report. We also hosted multiple showrooms and fashion shows to showcase the talent of our S100 Brands — designers and individuals who are part of an intensive year-long mentorship program curated and led by experts from the fashion industry.

We aimed to showcase Saudi Arabia’s offerings to the world, and we proudly delivered these events to a high standard, validating our aspiration to become industry leaders on the global fashion stage.

Emerge Fashion show

Mohammed Ashi just presented his collection for ASHI Studio at Paris Haute Couture Week – how are moments like this helping to raise the profile of the talent arising from Saudi Arabia?

We celebrate the successes of all our designers as they continue to excel and demonstrate the value of investing in the fashion sector. Mohammed Ashi’s collection presentation and his appointment as the first Gulf couturier to join the prestigious Fédération De La Haute Couture pave the way for future entrants and provide an opportunity for the Commission to celebrate the collective achievements of emerging talent in Saudi Arabia while showcasing the culture and heritage inherent to the Kingdom.

Tell us about Saudi 100 Brands and how the platform has developed so far. 

The Saudi 100 Brands program is a comprehensive mentorship initiative specifically tailored for Saudi fashion designers and brands aiming to elevate their businesses. Led by experts from the international fashion industry, the year-long program offers various benefits. Participants have access to masterclasses, personalised mentorship sessions, and engaging workshops covering elements such as design and innovation, sales strategies, and exhibitions. These valuable learning experiences equip the designers with the knowledge and skills necessary to gain a competitive edge in the industry.

We know you have the first Saudi Fashion Week coming up shortly – what can we expect from this?

Saudi Fashion Week, which is due to take place from October 20 to 23 this year, will invite the world to discover what Saudi fashion has to offer. We look forward to showcasing the unique and diverse collections from designers in the Saudi 100 Brands program. As the first fashion week held in Riyadh, we extend an invitation to the fashion community, welcoming fashion professionals and enthusiasts alike to witness Saudi’s journey to becoming the next international fashion destination.

Razan Alazzouni

What more can the Commission do to further raise awareness of design talent in Saudi Arabia? 

The Fashion Commission is dedicated to empowering Saudi fashion designers, preserving heritage, and nurturing industry growth. Initiatives like the Saudi 100 Brands program provide valuable support, mentorship, and resources to help designers excel. ‘Elevate’ is another initiative that focuses on developing female leaders in fashion through mentorship and guidance from renowned CEOs.

Earlier this year, the Fashion Commission invited emerging Saudi fashion designers to apply for two world-class fashion training courses: the ‘Executive Certificate in Fashion Business Program’ and the ‘Fashion Design Program,’ both delivered by Institut Français de la Mode (IFM). The Executive Program focuses on practical skills and includes online lectures and in-person sessions in Paris and Riyadh, while the Fashion Design Program offers a project-based design course in Paris taught by industry experts.

Such programs equip Saudi designers with skills and opportunities for success in the industry. We are actively committed to identifying opportunities that foster the growth and development of our designers’ talents. We aim to provide them with platforms and resources that enable them to expand their skills and reach new heights in their careers.

Can you share some of the designers we should be looking out for? 

We take immense pride in the diverse talent of our designers. Each individual possesses a unique approach an unique perspective to their designs. We recommend keeping an eye on the work of the designers who are part of the Saudi 100 Brand program, which includes established Saudi designers who have already seen success both within and outside the Kingdom and promising young designers and start-ups.

For more information about the program, please visit this link: https://fashion.moc.gov.sa/en/public-engagement/saudi-100-brands

Samah Abayas

What benefits are there to the country as a whole in raising the profile of the fashion industry?

Elevating the fashion industry has a huge impact on Saudi Arabia’s economy, cultural expression, and creative landscape. It drives economic growth by attracting investment, creating jobs, and boosting local manufacturing while also attracting tourism and fostering international collaboration.

Developing the fashion industry also nurtures local talent, preserves cultural heritage, and inspires future generations, stimulating related sectors such as retail and media and contributing to overall economic and cultural development.

How does the work the Saudi Fashion Commission is doing align with the Saudi Vision 2030?

In line with the Kingdom’s plan to diversify its economy beyond oil, the fashion industry in Saudi Arabia plays a key role in line with the Vision 2030 objectives. It contributes to economic growth, job creation, and the attraction of international investments.

The fashion industry has become a fundamental aspect of the country’s economy, generating many fashion-related jobs and fostering a thriving luxury market. Most importantly, the representation of women in the fashion industry highlights the importance of inclusivity and diversity. The rise of e-commerce holds promising opportunities for maximising expansion and market growth in the sector.

In this issue, we celebrate Saudi National Day – living in Saudi and working for this esteemed organisation. What does this day mean to you?

Saudi National Day is an opportunity to mark the realisation of our nation’s ambitious vision while we work to build the fashion sector in Saudi Arabia and allow talented designers to show the world what they have to offer. It is also a day of great pride and celebration as we witness the remarkable achievements and progress of the domestic fashion industry against the backdrop of our country’s growth.

NH Designer

From a global industry perspective, how far do you believe Saudi Arabia can go in terms of being recognised as an international fashion city?

Saudi Arabia possesses the necessary ingredients to become an internationally recognised fashion hub. Drawing inspiration from the best practices in the fashion sector from around the world, we have acquired valuable knowledge and applied it diligently. Our goal is to ensure a holistic and well-rounded approach as we strive to establish Saudi Arabia as a dynamic and influential player in the global fashion landscape. With a rich cultural heritage and a growing pool of talented designers, we look forward to seeing the sector develop. Saudi Arabia is uniquely positioned to make a mark on the international fashion scene.

Do you think it’s important to celebrate and support traditional craftsmanship from the region and how is the Commission able to do this?

Preserving traditional craftsmanship has evolved into a means of promoting sustainability, safeguarding cultural heritage, and bolstering local economies. It represents a way to reintroduce the human touch to production processes and advocate for a socially responsible lifestyle. The Commission wholeheartedly supports craftsmanship as an integral part of the region’s identity and heritage.

Some of our key activations, such as the Saudi Cup, are intended to encourage Saudi designers to support local craftsmen and highlight the country’s heritage to an international audience. In addition, with our Saudi 100 Brands program, participants build their businesses with the idea of supporting local crafts and integrating them into their products to sell internationally. Abadia brand is a good example of contemporary designs with handcraft elements in the products.

What is the biggest challenge you face in your role?

My role involves striking a balance between tradition and innovation, navigating the delicate boundary that separates the two on the path to success. Saudi Arabia is renowned for its profound cultural heritage and commitment to preserving its traditions and values, and this presents a unique opportunity as the industry continues to evolve rapidly.

Aram

What is something you would still like to achieve?

As we reflect on our past achievements, we acknowledge that they are stepping stones to our grander vision. Each milestone encourages us to dream bigger, work harder, and surpass our own boundaries. In the next five years, customers are expected to prioritise a broader array of sustainability options, with a notable rise in demand for product resale, repair services, and products with a lower carbon footprint. With my strong passion for sustainability, I envision a future where eco-friendly designs flourish and become more prevalent.

What is the professional motto that you live by?

Always be ambitious, humble, open-minded, and daring to let life surprise you for the better each day.

What else is in the pipeline for the coming year?

We are filled with anticipation as we prepare to be part of some of the most significant fashion events happening across the globe. Milan Fashion Week and New York Fashion Week, renowned for their grandeur and influence on the fashion industry, present unparalleled opportunities for us to showcase our latest designs and creations to an international audience. However, it’s not just about Milan and New York. We are equally enthusiastic about our very own first Saudi Fashion Week. This event holds particular significance for us as it allows us to showcase the unique blend of Saudi culture and contemporary fashion trends.

Gherado Felloni and Roger Vivier is a partnership that’s meant to be. Throughout his career, Felloni was inspired by the creativity that shoe designer Roger Vivier possessed, and it has continued to drive him since joining the brand as Creative Director in 2018.

Over the past five years, Felloni has been infusing the brand’s accessory collections with his joyful, decorative spirit – evolving the founder’s legacy with his worldly design language for today. Working at a brand with a beautiful history of the finest savoir-faire, Felloni has found the perfect balance of pushing the boundaries but honouring the heritage and capability of the brand. 

This summer, Roger Vivier presented the Viv’ Choc Pièce Unique collection during Paris Haute Couture Week. This special collection of one-of-a-kind handbags designed by Felloni explores the absolute heights of aspirational French savoir-faire. Each unique creation is a delicate fantasia of embroidery and precious textiles showcasing creativity and the finest in craftsmanship. As the collection was revealed in Paris, we talked to Gherardi Felloni to find out more about this and the future direction of the brand. 

Gherardo Felloni – Creative Director Roger Vivier

Congratulations on the Viv’ Choc Pièce Unique collection – tell us how this collection came to life.

This collection came from the desire to share our capabilities and savoir-faire with the world. It’s not the first time our top clients have asked for special, unique pieces, so we knew they would welcome it. It was a nice process for me, too, because, creatively speaking, there was a lot of freedom. We wanted to show what we could do, and it’s a project we enjoyed. 

Can you tell us about the inspiration, the choice of colours, materials, shapes, and the creative process?

I decided to put a theme to this collection because I believe the project will continue, and since they are unique pieces, they have to change a lot from season to season. So as a first step, I decided to talk a lot about the codes of Roger Vivier that I believe everyone should know – the fact that we are based in Paris and that Roger Vivier has always taken a lot of references from iconic French landmarks such as Versailles, The Eiffel Tower, and the 18th French history century in general. So I decided to reinterpret this for the collection using some of the most iconic things that inspired Roger Vivier as a designer from around France. We have reinterpreted some of these locations in unusual ways, and we also looked to the muses that inspired Roger Vivier himself and used them as inspiration as well. 

Regarding the materials, we used only the finest materials – satin, velvet, feathers, python, crocodile – the most precious and delicate materials we could find. Embroideries are made of feathers and natural pearls; everything is very beautiful. 

Viv’ Choc Pièce Unique collection

These pieces are truly works of art; how important is it to you to celebrate the finest in savoir flair and craftsmanship?

It’s something that I have believed in since I joined Roger Vivier. I always talk about what differentiates a beautiful and multi-level Maison from brands who might speak of savoir-faire and heritage but do not actually have it. I have always taken a lot of inspiration from Roger Vivier himself since the beginning of my career. He was an inventor, but at the same time, he was very attached to the atelier because he worked as a haute couture designer, in the sense that the embroideries, the workmanship, and the details that he was putting into his shoes, reflected those of Haute Couture designs. Today, for a brand like Roger Vivier, and especially at this moment when everyone is capitalising on savoir-faire and heritage, it’s time to let people know what we are capable of. We have never been a brand that shows off, but it is time to share our skills and beauty with the world.

Tell us about your vision and direction for Roger Vivier today. 

Roger Vivier is a very unique brand. As a designer, he was, of course, famous for shoes, but today we are growing a lot in other categories – jewellery, bags, belts. And I think that is a natural evolution because Roger Vivier himself was very closely linked to the silhouette of women. He worked with the likes of Christian Dior and Saint Laurent, and he really changed the silhouette of women. So it wouldn’t be right to tell the brand’s story without thinking about this, and what I mean by the silhouette is shoes, bags, clothes, hats – the full universe – and that’s why today we are capitalising on other categories. We have started to create jewels, and they are performing very well, and I believe that the future of Roger Vivier will have a bigger space for other accessory categories.

Viv’ Choc Pièce Unique collection

Would you ever move it into ready-to-wear? 

It’s not something we are thinking about now. We have created some gilets, which will be in stores in September, but for me, they are more like an accessory for the body than clothing items. They are super-embroidered and very beautiful. So for the moment, ready-to-wear is not on the plan, but we have a lot of space to grow!

We know you also recently celebrated the 60th anniversary of the iconic Vigule heel – what does this shoe design mean within the universe of Roger Vivier, and how do you continue to ensure it remains relevant today?

The Virgule was not very present in the collections when I arrived at Roger Vivier. It has been an obsession for all shoe designers over the years. It’s a shoe icon. So when I joined, I decided to bring it back and reinvent it for today. I believe it is a good moment to bring back this heel. It is a kitten heel with a very contemporary and playful design. It’s super iconic but, at the same time, modern. I have changed the shape slightly from the original but preserved the shoe’s identity.

In your opinion, what makes a design an icon?

That’s a big question! Any product that has become iconic in fashion was not planned to be an icon. It’s not something you can predict. All the iconic bags or shoes in history are still here because a designer decided to do something new or unexpected at the right moment. For me, it’s easy to reinvent icons because Roger Vivier has many. My goal is to reinterpret these with a contemporary customer in mind. If I had to sum up the secret to inventing an icon, it would be creativity but finding that creativity at the right moment in time.

Viv’ Choc Pièce Unique collection

How do you ensure that Roger Vivier stands out as a brand today?

There is no other brand like Roger Vivier. It’s a French Maison, there are a lot of iconic styles in our archives, and there’s beautiful savoir-faire. There are no other brands that have that same placement. We are very niche and special; everything we do is well done in Italy in small quantities, and our designs are complex. This kind of rarity makes the brand different. It’s almost five years since I joined Roger Vivier, and I’m always surprised how clients react to our products.

How do you appeal to younger or new customers but not alienate your longstanding clients?

In luxury and fashion, you must look towards new clients, not look back, because our loyal clients will follow us. They are happy to have newness; they are not scared. I’m a respectful designer, so I would never completely change our work. I have taken inspiration from Roger Vivier throughout my career, so it would be a shame to join the brand and change everything! You don’t risk losing clients when you are loyal and respect the brand as a designer. Our clients are curious, and they want to experiment.

Can you tell us about Roger Vivier in the Middle East and what your clients here are looking for from accessories?

The Middle East offers a huge opportunity for Roger Vivier because we are quite small there in terms of retail, but we have a lot of clients who buy our products around the world when they are travelling. I believe that Roger Vivier is a perfect brand for this market. The rarity of the brand is amazing, and the quality is super high, and that’s what customers in the Middle East are looking for. I always see Middle Eastern clients as clients who understand the luxury industry and its products. When you present something very elevated to a client, you need them to know why this product is so special; in this market, customers understand that. Our boutique in Dubai is performing very well, and the retail buying is beautiful.

What message would you send to your friends and clients in the Middle East?

If you are investing in a product from Roger Vivier, you will surely get something special and quite rare, I’m in awe of every detail, and you will be too. And of course, now that we are more present in the market, we will be creating special products for the Middle East.

What can you tell us about the upcoming collections this year? 

Our big focus this year is the Shock bag which will be in stores in September. I love the design of this bag – the buckle, the completely new chain – and the draping technique in soft leather. It’s a beautiful bag.

What is a lesson you have learned throughout your career?

Fashion is a creative job, but it’s a big business, so you have to believe in yourself as a designer. It’s very easy to lose your focus, so try to keep the focus and don’t be scared when you have an intuition.

How do you get inspired?

It sounds very cliché, but I believe inspiration is all around us. As a designer, you need to truly see what’s around you and get the right inspiration at the right moment.

What’s the professional motto that you live by?

Fashion is about selling dreams, and I try to be positive and propose products that are as dreamy as possible.

Her Highness Sheikha Mozah Bint Marwan Al Maktoum is unstoppable. As the UAE’s first female pilot from the Royal Family and the first female pilot of Dubai police airwing, she has already accomplished incredible feats at just 26. But don’t expect her to stop there! She is fuelled by the adrenaline rush she gets in the sky and by the satisfaction of inspiring young girls and women. Sheikha Mozah still has a lot to do. 

As the granddaughter of the late His Highness Sheikh Maktoum bin Rashid Al Maktoum, the brother of the ruler of Dubai, Sheikha Mozah grew up in her home country, the United Arab Emirates, surrounded by inspiring role models who would encourage her to chase her dreams. She became fascinated by air travel at a young age. Despite a scarce number of women working in the aviation industry globally, she pursued her passion of being a pilot. She became the first Royal female pilot and the First Lieutenant Pilot at Dubai Police. She was the first female to attain this position before being promoted to Captain Pilot in 2023.

But her work is not done yet. Sheikha Mozah has many aspirations up her sleeve and her journey is only just beginning. Moving forward, she will focus on channelling her passion for aviation and her experience into inspiring others and encouraging young girls to chase their dreams, just like she did. We find out more. 

Congratulations on all your work so far – what would you say has been the most significant achievement to date?

Thank you. I am really proud of all my achievements, but I am always looking forward to the next accomplishment. I am motivated by continuously pursuing a better version of myself, so I am often guilty of focusing more on tomorrow than on today. Having conquered milestones that can inspire other young girls to do the same, this remains my number one motivation in everything I do. So, what I am most proud of is my ability to see past the achievement in search of what comes next, treating every milestone as a pebble on the path instead of a reason to stop and contemplate without a forward action.

We know many women look up to you as an inspiration – how do you hope your achievements encourage others to follow their dreams?

I sincerely hope that every young girl sees me as an inspiration to have a difficult conversation with their family to support their dream pursuit. When you come from a more traditional background or you don’t have female role models in your immediate family, it helps to say, “but look at her, she did it, so I should be able to as well”. It’s a powerful tool to enable communication and bring down barriers. I hope I can be that for them, a reason to try.

You have achieved so much at such a young age – what more do you still want to do?

Yes, there is a lot I still want to do, but I don’t like to talk about wish lists, I prefer to discuss achievements and the process in retrospect. There is something special about keeping your wishes for yourself without declaring them to the world. First of all, it gives me freedom to change my mind without judgement and that in itself is something I like to hold on to. Secondly, it allows me to relieve the pressure that comes from the expectations of being a public figure. So, you will have to wait for the next accomplishment!

What are you working on currently?

My most exciting project, which has been in the works for a long time, is the upcoming publication of my first book. It’s a children’s book about women in aviation across history and from around the world. I believe their names and stories will inspire young girls in the pursuit of incredible things and teach young boys that men and women have been braving the skies almost in parallel, that for every man that broke a record, there is a woman too. When introduced early on in schools, this kind of representation will enable a different type of growth based on default inclusion. I can’t wait to present the book, and I will hopefully do a tour of schools, bookstores, and festivals starting this fall.

We know you are no stranger to adventure and taking on adrenaline challenges – is there something on your wishlist at the moment?

I always have my eyes on the latest tech when it comes to sports and aviation. I love to try things out before anyone else because I enjoy the thrill of the challenge. Can I do it? Will I do it? It’s what motivates me. I have been looking at a few prototypes of drones and copters that would be fun to experience but safety comes first. When I flew the Leonardo Tiltrotor, while I was the first woman, the aircraft had obtained all the certifications, and safety was not an issue. I have a keen interest in sustainable flights, like the solar pulse and Human jet Flight, which I hope to do in the near future. I have been fascinated with space travel, and space tourism and Space Perspective is working on a balloon that goes into space, in what they define as a safe life life-changing experience. I will be ready when they are ready, so who knows what will be first.

How did you develop your passion and love for the aviation industry?

I guess you could say it was “love at first flight”! It was during a family holiday in the UK, I was only 12, and I really wanted to try as many new things as possible. I was really into extreme sports and always up for a challenge. I had the opportunity to fly on a Robinson 22. It’s a small helicopter. I will never forget the feeling of that day. It was a hot summer’s day, and the doors of the Robinson 22 were removed; as we were soaring up in the sky and the breeze passed through, I felt an incredible sense of power, freedom, and excitement, and I decided there and then that I wanted to learn how to fly.

What is something else that interests you aside from aviation?

I have a lot of interests, and I see aviation not as an interest but as a passion and my work. I love animals and nature and try to learn as much as possible about them and our environment.

Any extreme sport that requires skills and courage, count me in, I have skydived more times than I can count, but I am also incredibly interested in technology, its use in aviation and beyond and especially Artificial Intelligence. Lastly but probably most importantly Health and wellbeing, that I not only try to apply in my daily life but I am actively learning and researching so that I can be in my best form all the time.

Where do you like to travel to when you want to take time out?

Oh, that’s classified information! But what I can share is that I love nature, and I love to immerse myself in the outdoors as much as possible. Sea or mountain or jungle, wherever I can swim, hike, dive, practice sports and be with animals, it’s definitely when I am in my element.

I have often visited the Maldives because it’s a close destination offering incredible relaxation and unprecedented marine life. For us in the UAE, it’s accessible for short trips, too, which is often all I have access to between work and my busy event schedule.

What is the professional motto that you live by?

“Your altitude is only limited by your attitude” – be the best you can be, and you will achieve everything you set your eyes to. Approach everything with a high spirit of possibilities.

What is a book you have read recently that you would recommend?

I am going to do a shameless plug here; it’s the book I have written about women in aviation across history. I have just finished a final review before passing it on to my editor for the last tweaks. There is something magical about reading your own creation, and I hope this book will make it to the shelves of many homes around the globe. It’s coming out in November and I don’t want to give anything away before then, so check on my website for news on the release, and final title. I have three possible titles fighting in my mind at the moment; such a hard decision!

Who is someone who has inspired you throughout your life? 

The Leadership of my beloved country has served me as a compass in all my choices and opportunities. His Highness Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum and His Highness Sheikh Hamdan bin Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum have opened doors for me to enable and support my aviation dreams and allowed me to become the first female pilot of the Dubai Police Airwing. They are never afraid to lead by example, and I am honoured to humbly pay my dues by serving my country.

But, also my beloved mother, who had wished for an independent daughter, and since my birth has supported me so fiercely in all my decisions and endeavours, accompanying me on my very first flight when I worked for Emirates. She booked for herself and a few friends to make sure she could cheer for me all the way. How sweet is that? It cannot be easy to give so much freedom to a young girl when nobody has done it before, so her courage and trust in me inspire me every day to give my best never to let her down. I hope I am making her proud after all; she is the one who gave me my first pair of wings, allowing me to be who I wanted to be. Thank you, mum!

What does it mean to you to see so many Emirati women now in the workforce and doing jobs that perhaps they wouldn’t have previously done? 

I am only 26, and in my short life, I can say that I entered the world when progress had been in motion for quite a while. I don’t recall a moment of ever feeling that anything was off-limits for a woman. From the examples around me to the stories I heard and witnessed, I grew up with the certainty that men and women were equal and I could have pursued anything a man could have if I wanted to, and so I did.

Can you tell us about women in the aviation industry, specifically today and how that has progressed?

Women in aviation represent only six per cent of the aviation workforce globally. It’s an exceptionally low number, but things are changing fast and should improve exponentially. Conversations about inclusion and improving the recruitment process for the industry are happening everywhere, and different actions are being implemented to guarantee a future that includes more women.

In my personal capacity, I have established Shehana, the Women in Aviation Association, to facilitate this inclusion in the aviation industry, not just for female pilots but for a full spectrum of female professionals who could add incredible value to the industry’s future. Shehana will be at the Dubai Airshow this year in an exclusive partnership that seeks to engage youth and promote female speakers from the aviation field. I am extremely proud of this work, and I look forward to creating traction, opening doors and manifesting opportunities for women and youth.

What is the biggest lesson you have learned throughout your life?

Patience. I am a very impulsive person; I want it now, and before I get it, I am already focusing on the next goal or the next want. I chose the wrong career for that; patience and a stoic approach is what is most required in what I do, and I am learning, more often than not, against my will. But patience is definitely the hardest lesson, as jumping ahead has made me walk on quicksand many times. I am getting better as I get a little older. I look forward to being in a place where I am so at ease I can patiently exist in the chaos that surrounds me.

What is a message that you would send to women who are about to embark on a new career or journey? 

Be confident with your choices and know that while nothing is inherently easy, your attitude can open doors and bring you achievements beyond your wildest dreams. Approach everything you do with incredible positivity, a humble spirit and the willingness to always be taught and shown how to do better. Ultimately, commit to doing your best and giving your best in every situation. This way, even if you don’t win or don’t achieve, you have for sure learned a lesson the humble way. Lastly, treat everyone around you with respect and kindness so that you can be remembered for that.

The FENDI Fall/Winter 2023 Haute Couture collection celebrates the finest in couture traditions, combined with a lighter, more approachable attitude. With a focus on volume, fluidity, draper and ease for the wearer, Kim Jones, Artistic Director of Womenswear, addressed the growing demand for couture to become more wearable while still honouring the traditions of fine craftsmanship.

“This season, we wanted to concentrate on the achievement of fluidity, drape and shape through couture techniques, bringing these elements together with the attitude of today.” Said Jones.

This collection also provided the opportunity for FENDI to present its debut high jewellery collection designed by Delfina Delettrez Fendi. The Artistic Director of FENDI Jewellery’s approach was to see the jewellery design as an extension of Haute Couture design. The two designers work closely to create a seamless collection.

“We worked on a template based on Delfina’s high jewellery. If there is no jewellery, the idea is still present through the colour palette and embellishment in the collection; the clothes themselves take on the idea of jewellery. Colours come from flesh tones as well as that of stones: black diamonds, rubies, sapphires. There is a play of soft and hard, flesh and stone.” Said Jones.

Delfina Delettrez Fendi added: “There is an emotional relationship that I have with the jewellery in the collection that I hope the women who will eventually wear it will have too. There is an obsessive precision you need to make jewellery like this, such small objects that have such strength, meaning and personality. And yet, in the end, they have a direct and intimate relationship to the body; they are a profound and personal extension of the woman.”

The collection combines simplicity with complexity, a story of contrasts. A clean, elegant silhouette is given depth by hidden intricacies through complex and rigorous pattern cutting. Many garments are created with one single seam. Second-skin silks, intricate knits, neoprene tailored furs and FENDI chevron feathered shearlings add a sense of elevated glamour.

Precision and emotion, the real and the refined, are also found in Delfina Delettrez Fendi’s approach to high jewellery. The jewellery pieces are presented in a FENDI colour palette of exceptional white and yellow diamonds together with green, orange and pink Padparadscha sapphires and spinels. The collection of pink spinels alone, that feature in the ‘Undarum’ set, took forty years to gather together and will probably never be replicated in nature again.

The discreetly multifaceted nature of this couture collection reaches a crescendo in embroidery techniques that unite the clothing and jewellery worlds. While clutching their jewel box minaudière, the mood builds with models scattered with jewel-like embellishments or layered with a stratification of intricate stacked tonal paillettes and stones at the closing of the show. To achieve the glittering rose glow of the final look, it took 1200 hours of handwork.

Elie Saab’s Fall/Winter 2023-24 collection celebrates the image of regal characters through the ages and how they are portrayed through cinema.

The Lebanese couturier looked at medieval fictional characters played by some of Hollywood’s greats as the underlying inspiration for this extravagant offering. Cate Blanchet in Elizabeth, Sophie Marceau in Braveheart, Kiera Knightly in The Duchess, Marion Cotillard in Macbeth, Charlize Theron in Snow White and the Huntsman, Isabelle Adjani in La Reine Margot, and Angelina Jolie in Maleficent –– give breath to an alluring retelling of legends and tales.

Titled “A GLAMOUR OF YORE”, this collection traverses a spectrum of opulence and grandeur and adds new extravagance to fashion as the worlds of history, royalty and cinema collide. 

A lineup of heroines walked the runway dressed in glistening looks with a sense of gracious composure. Tudor sequined roses and flower branches wildly vine up necks and out of caped shoulders in blooming armouries of romantic strength. Dignified gold and glistening crystal beads dance with braids and tresses into corsets that sensually train behind in mousseline sands of time. Striking complexities emerge in dazzling jewelled moments of ruby, amethyst and emerald, while draping velvets still veil rich depths.

Intricate textures are lavishly woven into refined volumes of majestic demure, where each silken thread is a moving ode to elusive beauty. Dramatic capes of crystalized crepe and velvet dentelle add an impressive layer, wrapping matching gowns in enchanting mystery.

Pearl drops and gilded bees buzz through untamed fields of embroidered foliage and into suited gothic statements of versatile strength. Wispy blush feathers swish and sway with glittering sequins in playful fantasies of near transparency. 

The show closed with a captivating bride whose glistening gown in blush pink is a symbol of excellence.

This collection celebrates the highest level of beauty and captures such iconic moments across generations.

Virginie Viard’s Fall/Winter 2023-24 Haute Couture collection for Chanel was inspired by the chicest of Parisian women. Taking a cue from the ultimate French muse Vanessa Paradis, Viard painted a portrait of the contrasts of a sensitive yet bold Parisienne.

“Playing with opposites and contrasts, with nonchalance and elegance, is like standing on a line between strength and delicacy, which, at CHANEL, is what we call allure,” she explains.

In this sense, the collection features many contrasts, sharp, masculine suits in soft feminine hues, masculine-inspired overcoats, diaphanous blouses belted over flat-pleated golden tweed skirts, precious vest tops, pin-striped trousers and men’s waistcoats, a long black chiffon dress of infinite lightness, painted eyewear and two-tone Mary-Janes.

The collection plays with the codes of CHANEL, rigour and asymmetry, using discreet colours and vibrant shades, assurance and discretion.

The show was presented on the riverbank of the Seine. “If we’re in Paris,” she adds, “and this time we’re in Paris itself, on the quayside. The street and the colourful paving stones call for both sophistication and simplicity.” Said Viard. Crowds looked on as models paraded across cobbled stones that had been hand-painted pink – yet another nod to the juxtapositions between hard and soft.

“Handing down emotions, bringing the most unlikely elements together, doing things your own way, just dreaming.” Added Viard in the show notes.

The Giorgio Armani Privé Fall/Winter 2023-24 collection “Le temps des roses” pays homage to the red rose; a symbol of romance, love and life.

Giorgio Armani plays with this iconic symbol in various ways, reinterpreting it in oversized blooms, embellished petals and sculptured shapes that don’t compromise on the romanticism of this universal motif.

Mysterious roses are presented in glossy lacquered textures, embossed on surfaces in a pattern adorned with graphic black and brilliant accents of gold. The entire parade offers an iridescent glow as models shimmy down the runway.

As with many of the Italian designer’s collections, the Far East strongly influences this offering thanks to Mr Armani’s fascination with this region of the world. A journey from the oriental world to the modern West through elongated silhouettes that sway and capture the essence of couture with every movement.

The rose is repeatedly seen across looks that epitomise the brand’s DNA. Sharp geometric lines highlight the designer’s sense of precision, while soft accents offer a sense of feminine romanticism. Cropped jackets, long skirts, fluid trousers and floor-length dresses skim the body and sculpt the silhouette.

In accessories are slim and elegant with pointed toes and higher than we have seen in the past. Many also feature a rose motif at the toe or mesh detailing.

The final look saw an unconventional bride dressed in red with rose decorated glistening bodice. She is undeniably elegant yet bold and powerful.

Tamara Ralph returned to Paris Haute Couture Week this season with her debut collection from her new namesake brand, Tamara Ralph.

The Fall-Winter 2023-24 collection, which was presented in Paris on July 23rd 2023, symbolises the journey the designer has been on over the past few years. It represents the place she is at now as a designer and a woman, with strong, empowering femininity at the heart of the designs. Fresh from the show in Paris, we talked to Tamara about this new chapter and her vision for the future of the brand.

Tamara Ralph FW23 – Look 09

Firstly, welcome back! Tell us about the journey you’ve been on over the last couple of years and where you’re at today.

Thank you! It was a journey that taught me a lot in business and my personal life. I had a beautiful daughter, which was a lovely experience. She’s our world. I wanted to take the time to regroup and look at the future, how to do things differently, and how to take my creativity forward.

We saw the reveal of your FW23 Haute Couture collection in Paris yesterday – tell us about the main themes and inspiration behind this collection.

It was really lovely to be back in Paris with my team. It was a great experience, and we loved working on it. The collection drew on many of the experiences I have been through in the last couple of years. My work has always been very feminine, but some of my experiences made me stronger as a person and allowed me to grow as a designer, and I wanted to highlight that with this collection. I wanted to show feminine strength in the collection, a bolder, more mature side. To highlight this, I took very feminine elements and presented them in harder materials. Roses in metal, to create armour-like structures within the dresses, for example, almost shield-like elements, but done in a very elegant, graceful way, with refined detail. Taking metal work and encrusting it with pearls, or taking roses and making it into metal and covering it in stones, really hardening these feminine elements but keeping them very rich.

Tamara Ralph FW23 – Look 06

Tell us about some of the colours used in this collection. 

The first part of the collection starts with classic black-and-white looks. I think my designs have always had a very elegant, classic aesthetic, so I wanted to start with the purity of black and white with these classic pieces. It then evolves into a raspberry red which is quite a passionate colour, before moving into feminine gelato shades. We have a beautiful peppermint tone and a soft candy pink. Mixing these soft colours with classics combines the femininity and strength that the collection is about.

What has the feedback been like so far?

We have had incredible feedback from the press and clients alike, so it’s been a very busy but wonderful twenty-four hours.

Tamara Ralph FW23 – Look 11

And we saw you had your daughter with you at the show…

When you become a mother, you gain a different purpose and perspective, and my daughter has been instrumental in giving me strength for my next chapter. She is a huge part of me, so sharing this with her is amazing.

Who is the woman that you’re designing for now?

She’s someone who knows herself and has strength. She’s bold; she knows what she wants; she’s fearless, but at the same time elegant and graceful.

Tamara Ralph FW23 – Look 10

What else is in the pipeline for your brand?

We’ve got some exciting announcements coming next year, including some amazing collaborations we’ve been working on. These will set the foundations of having a lifestyle offering from the brand. Couture is obviously the heart of what we do, but I want to push my creativity outside of that and look at other ideas and categories that sit beautifully within the brand’s story and the luxury sector but give a wider offering outside of fashion. We can’t share too much at the moment, but we are really looking forward to it when it launches next year. 

Tamara Ralph FW23 – Look 25

Read the full interview in the upcoming September issue of A&E Magazine.

Dior’s Fall-Winter 2023-24 Haute Couture collection depicts Artistic Director Maria Grazia Chiuri’s ideal of couture and celebrates the power of women throughout time.

Each design underlines the sartorial elements that can be described as archetypal, such as the tunic, the peplum, the cape and the stole – timeless, iconic pieces redesigned in contemporary ways, yet not forgetting their origins.

There was a sense of royalty or divineness to the collection, pieces inspired by iconic women who have ruled and still rule the world. From goddesses to royalty, this was reflected in the model selection and lineup, each feeling somewhat mystical and otherworldly.

Presented in the Musee Rodin in Paris, the colourful landscape paintings of artist Marta Roberti formed the backdrop for the show, complementing the neutral colour palette.

The collection features neutral tones – white, beige, silver and gold – with a sense of purity, while a pillar silhouette paired with flat shoes gives a sense of understated beauty or beauty without trying. With each look, the Artistic Director perpetuates the cult of the goddess and reinterprets the founding emblems of Antiquity.

Chiuri’s mission to promote the strength of femininity was once again highlighted through this collection, illustrating its strength and fragility, which supports and sustains the community we form. Recalling the past, it guides us towards a vision of the future endowed with sensitivity and essential attention to detail.

Schiaparelli opened the latest edition of Paris Haute Couture Week today with a show that highlighted the close connection between the worlds of fashion and art.

The Fall Winter 2023-24 collection by Daniel Roseberry once again highlights the brand’s firm position as an inspirational leader in the world of Haute Couture, with iconic looks that set the tone for a season of glamour and elevated chicness.

Architectural silhouettes, extreme embellishments and a fascination with the human body were once again at the forefront of Roseberry’s designs, as well as the use of exceptional materials and a sense of freedom and fluidity.

Roseberry was inspired by a quote by American philosopher and author Ralph Waldo Emerson that read: “Every spirit builds itself a house; and beyond its house, a world; and beyond its world a heaven. Know then, that the world exists for you: build, therefore, your own world.”

Immersing the audience into the world of Schiaparelli, Roseberry offered a more “organic, more sensual and more impromptu” collection than last season, finding freedom in separates such as a white shirt, pants, puffer coats and knitwear basics. “I wanted to make an impossible wardrobe – impossible not because it’s not wearable, but because it’s so extraordinary, a Surrealist’s interpretation of a woman’s essential closet.” Said Roseberry in the show notes.

The idea of surrealism was reflected by art pieces presented around the show space, once again highlighting the brand’s close connection to the art world. Each piece in this collection is somehow inspired by an artist – from a woman’s body with brushwork inspired by Lucian Freud, to mirrored mosaic pieces inspired by the work of sculptor Jack Whitten, as well as a leather cigarette box that trims a ball gown skirt is a homage to Sarah Lucas, and the deep blue pebble-like beads and powder that cover a multitude of surfaces are a nod to Yves Klein.

Surrealist artist Salvador Dali is also a key inspiration for this collection. His sunrises give birth to a multitude of vibrant colour degradé’s, as well as Matisse and Lucian Freud, whose homes and residences inspired various elements of the collection, including the dramatic chaos of painterly brushwork on an oversized white laminated puffer. “This collection has been so heavily inspired by the agony and ecstasy of creation—but still offers clothes for a woman to love for a lifetime.” Said Roseberry.

In accessories, the new Schiap bag is set to be a season icon, presented in a hand-painted and alligator version, as well as being decorated with wooden beads of the signature ‘trapunto’ technique echoed in white strands of plaster beads and bugle beaded measuring tapes.

The toe shoes return this season, this time with a “barely-there” appearance, with the Maison’s signature measuring tape running up the bag of the leg.

Again, art is a huge influence in jewellery. Giacometti’s monumental sculptures are reinterpreted here as skinny drops of stone-capped gold, and Claude Lalanne’s beloved mouldings inspired massive brooches and cuffs. There are also wooden jewels which marks a first for the maison.

“Going into the unknown, when creative expression and fame feels available to any and all, at least for a moment, we wonder: What can break through? For our Maison, it is the power of design, the power of our artisans, and the power of the human hand at work.” Roseberry finished.

Assouline presents a new book dedicated to the legacy of the Expo 2020 Dubai’s UAE Pavilion.

This impressive falcon-shaped structure became an icon of the country’s Expo thanks to its awe-inspiring architecture and fascinating content. Commissioned by the UAE Ministry of Culture and Youth and situated in the heart of the landscape of Expo 2020 Dubai, the UAE Pavilion invited visitors to discover the UAE as the Land of Dreamers Who Do.

© Smith & Foulkes:Nexus Studios for the UAE Pavilion Expo 2020

It told the story of the country’s past, present and future, and its ability to always look forward while honouring the past. The Pavilion featured an immersive experience that showcased technology innovation and heritage.

© Katerina Premfors for the UAE Pavilion Expo 2020

Now for the first time, a book is honouring the legacy of the Pavilion, allowing readers to return to that memorable year and rediscover some of the highlights. It invites readers to once again experience and immerse themselves in the beauty, simplicity, and natural diversity of the UAE. Ambition and humanity; authenticity and openness; optimism and resilience – these are the values underpinning the story of the Land of Dreamers Who Do and embodied within this exceptional volume.

© Smith & Foulkes:Nexus Studios for the UAE Pavilion Expo 2020

“Land of Dreamers Who Do” offered a visitor experience that engaged the senses, which included the creation of two bespoke scents used at specific points, bringing the narrative to life by evoking scent memories of the UAE. Each book has pages imbued with “Desert of Dreams,” one of these signature scents, giving readers a unique insight into this special encounter with the spirit and character of the UAE.

© Katerina Premfors for the UAE Pavilion Expo 2020

Available at Assouline outlets in the UAE. RRP 760AED.

Looking for a last forever accessory or a statement bag to get you through the summer? We reveal the latest bags to carry, wherever you’re travelling.

Michelin star chef Chef Akmal Anuar arrived in Dubai from Singapore with his decade of culinary experience, ready to shake up the UAE’s restaurant scene with his disruptive dining concepts.

With his own style and identity, the Singapore-born chef was the Head Chef for over seven years at the famous Iggy’s Restaurant in Singapore. He was recognised in the prestigious World’s 50 Best Restaurants, securing the 26th position in 2012 and voted No. 1 restaurant in Asia. While at Iggy’s, he cooked for famous dignitaries and celebrities, participated in exhibitions and culinary competitions, and displayed his culinary skills alongside legendary chefs like Tetsuya Wakuda of Tetsuya’s Sydney and Massimo Bottura of Osteria Francescana, to name a few.

In late 2016, he established 3Fils in the Jumeirah Fishing Harbor, subsequently awarded a Michelin star and becoming one of the UAE’s most talked about restaurants. Most recently, in a joint partnership with Sunset Hospitality Group, Chef Akmal founded Goldfish Sushi & Yakitori. This dining concept introduces the authentic taste of Japan in a laidback, contemporary environment. The restaurant has been listed in the Gault & Millau guide and has just been awarded the Michelin Bib Gourmand. We find out more. 

Tell us about the concept of Goldfish Sushi & Yakitori. 

At Goldfish Sushi & Yakitori, we blend authenticity with modern influences, giving diners a true taste of Japanese flavours in an unpretentious, relaxed atmosphere. We source the freshest prime seasonal ingredients flown in directly from Japan and use both simple and traditional cooking techniques to amplify the unique tastes of our dishes. 

Goldfish was born in 2021 in collaboration with Sunset Hospitality Group during the height of the pandemic. The UAE opened up quickly compared to other countries and made great progress during that time. Discussions on establishing Goldfish with SHG started in 2020. After several meetings and a site visit, there was instant chemistry, and we shook hands to seal the deal. Today, we’re incredibly proud to see Goldfish enter its third year of successful operations.  

What do you think the restaurant offers that you can’t find anywhere else in the UAE?

We prioritise having seasonal, fresh ingredients to ensure our food quality is superior. Another aspect that truly sets us apart in the market is our commitment to remaining accessible and simple. This approach is the main cornerstone of our brand; we want to welcome everyone to enjoy authentic, high-quality Japanese food in a comfortable setting. 

Tell us about some of the highlight dishes and what inspired them.

My love for raw dishes has inspired me to create the popular and best-selling dishes we now have at Goldfish. We have a variety of them on our menu, with some of the stand-out favourites being the Yellowtail Carpaccio and Bluefin Tuna with truffle. 

While our selection of Sushi are winners, our clay pots are a must-try. Embracing the traditions of Southeast Asian culture that deeply resonate within me, these pots represent our culinary artistry. To round off the authentic experience and for a visually appealing presentation, we bring the final touches to the dish right at the guests’ tables. The Mushroom Claypot, Wagyu Hambagu Claypot and Chilean Claypot are our signatures, however, we do often have unique clay pot additions to the daily special’s menu. 

The restaurant has just been awarded the Michelin Bib Gourmand – what does this mean to you?

Being awarded and recognised by the Michelin Guide for two years in a row means the world to me and my team. This is a solid validation for our work and commitment. Some team members have been working with me since 2016 and have demonstrated strong passion and dedication to their craft; their remarkable work deserves to be celebrated. 

Tell us about your wider portfolio of restaurants and ventures. 

I like disruptive concepts and often feel the urge to make people uncomfortable with my ideas. It pushes me to be different and creative. I don’t follow the norm so much. My career has never been about monetary gains; my driving force is finding purpose and creating a dynamic impact as I navigate toward the future. This year I am tightening loose ends and infusing a fresh vibrancy into everything I do. 

In 2019, I set up White Rice Consultancy, offering food and beverage consultation, concept creation, brand management, and joint ventures with projects now underway in the UAE and in Singapore. Among the ventures also undertaken is Chie, a Mediterranean restaurant I manage inside the House of Wisdom in Sharjah. My most recent project is 11 Woodfire, the one-Michelin-starred restaurant which opened in 2022. 

What is your biggest achievement so far? 

The biggest achievement has no measurement. I am blessed and very grateful to be where I am today; being surrounded by my family in Dubai, doing what I enjoy most, and living a comfortable life. Establishing multiple restaurants and operating alongside a team of great people is undoubtedly a great achievement worth celebrating. 

How do you think platforms such as Michelin and World’s 50 Best arriving in the UAE positively affect the country’s hospitality industry?

Such platforms and their influential presence in the region are generating a profound impact on the hospitality industry. They serve as a catalyst, motivating restaurants across the country to innovate and elevate their creations. As a result, stronger competition will eventually fall into place, taking the industry to new heights.

What do you think is the secret to sustaining a successful restaurant in the UAE today, especially when there is so much competition?

I believe the secret is simple: unique brand identity and superior quality.

How does the UAE compare with the industry in Singapore?

The UAE is ever-growing and is a hub for innovation and growth; it attracts visitors from around the globe, given its strategic location. Singapore has strong competition within its culinary scene, however, in terms of scale and spending power, the UAE has its own differences.

What first fuelled your love for cooking?

I was born into a family of hawkers and would often help my parents at the stall. Growing up in this environment fostered a deep love for food within me and inspired me to become a Chef. I took my passion to a profession in 2000 when I landed a job in a French restaurant called Les Amis in Singapore. 

What is your favourite dish to cook? 

I am a 3-4 ingredient guy when it comes to cooking. I choose the best ingredients for the meal, considering what affects its texture and flavour the most. A simple bowl of short-grain rice with a fried egg and furikake can take someone straight to heaven. It’s one of my favourite dishes to prepare.

What is something you would still like to do in your career that you haven’t done yet?

One aspiration that remains close to my heart is to establish a platform dedicated to empowering underprivileged individuals who have not had the opportunity to start their way in the industry. I envision creating a space where these aspiring talents can receive the necessary support and guidance to pursue their passion. I want to work hand in hand with a non-profit organisation to turn this vision into reality and create a more inclusive industry. 

Where do you like to eat when you eat out in the UAE?

I enjoy eating in my restaurants or at home when my wife cooks. Besides that, I enjoy visiting new restaurant openings when I find the time. It’s a way to stay connected with the evolving dining scene.  

What is the professional motto you live by?

Stay sincere in your beliefs. First, never promise or do something for someone when it doesn’t align with your truth and intentions. It’s better to say no than to disappoint. Second, never be a slave to yourself or to something that doesn’t fulfil your beliefs. Remain true to yourself, and you will find purpose in everything you do. 

Hublot’s new Big Bang Unico Sky Blue celebrates the colours of summer with an impressive blue ceramic developed in-house by the watchmaker.

This 42mm watch represents new horizons, exploration and a world of dreams, making it the perfect accessory to take you through the summer months. The dial reveals the column wheel of the HUB1280 manufacture calibre, a self-winding chronograph movement with a 72-hour power reserve.

As its Unico manufacture movement gently tracks the easy passage of time, the Big Bang Unico Sky Blue evokes a sense of brightness and timelessness. The white luminescent hands and indices, which appear suspended, mark the hours spent in joyous reunions. The watch was developed using the brand’s unique processes to produce this exclusive colour and unrivalled comfort.

This high-tech material is hypoallergenic and adapts to the temperature of the skin. Lightweight and ultra-resistant to oxidation and scratching, it is the perfect companion for all your summer activities. The new Summer edition of the Big Bang Unico comes with a Velcro strap with a sports fastener and its iconic lined natural rubber version with a titanium deployment buckle for those long evenings under the stars.

Available in a limited edition of just 200 pieces.

With the Eid Al-Adha holiday on the horizon, an extended six-day weekend for many UAE residents, we round up some of the staycations to try if you plan to stay in the UAE for the upcoming holiday.

25Hours Hotel Dubai One Central

25Hours Hotel Dubai One Central offers the ultimate urban staycation this summer, inviting guests to enjoy a relaxing city break. This trendy hotel which overlooks Dubai’s Museum of the Future, is perfect for the style-conscious traveller, offering a quirky take on an urban property. The hotel features an array of rooms with unique colourful interiors following the history of the UAE, ranging from the Bedouin rooms to the Artist Village Suites. The Glamping rooms have curated design elements like portable sound systems and analogue telephones, adding a unique touch to the design. The largest Artist Village suites are a kaleidoscope of colours with patterned tiles, quirky artwork, seating areas, dual showers and roll-top tubs. For something extra special, the Hakawati Suite is the hotel’s Penthouse accommodation, with a private bar, with a terrace overlooking the Museum and a sheikh-sized bed.

The hotel has numerous award-winning outlets, from Latin American rooftop bar Monkey Bar and German Biergarten Ernst to Indian Tandoor Tina and Nomad Day Bar – operated by Nightjar Coffee. Hotel facilities include a panoramic pool, state-of-the-art gym and the Extra Hours Spa – playfully encouraging guests to make the most of that elusive 25th hour.

The hotel’s ‘Summer Surprises’ package includes various benefits, including 30 per cent off room rates, breakfast included, credit to spend in F&B outlets and other special discounts.

The Westin Dubai Mina Seyahi, Dubai Marina

The Westin Dubai Mina Seyahi is offering a summer staycation experience for all the family. The resort’s summer deal includes breakfast and dinner at Mina’s Kitchen for two adults and two children (up to 14 years). This resort has much to experience, from the adults-only Bussola Mare Beach Club to the kid’s Jungle Bay Waterpark. If the heat is too much, The Westin has a number of food and beverage outlets, from traditional Italian dishes at Bussola to five-star grills as BABA and, for the real foodies, beachside dining at Fish Taverna.

The hotel has also recently undergone a transformation, with the conservatory being the perfect meeting point for guests and friends. The art deco interiors make this one of the most visually aesthetic properties in the UAE.

Caesars Palace, Dubai 

Located on Bluewaters Island, Dubai Caesars Palace combines the best of a beach escape with an urban city break, offering a fresh take on the Dubai experience with celebrity chef-helmed restaurants, five temperature-controlled outdoor pools and two beach clubs, where adults can create lasting memories in a relaxed and refined setting. Encompassing a 500m private beach with unobstructed views across the Arabian Gulf the hotel offers luxury rooms, suites and apartments with sleek, contemporary interiors and private balconies. From relaxing at the well-appointed Qua Spa to enjoying live entertainment and indulging in a variety of alfresco dining experiences, Caesars Palace Dubai expertly caters to the unique desires of each individual guest.

For the upcoming Eid holiday, the resort is offering a special deal for residents and UAE Nationals, including savings on rooms and suites, complimentary breakfast, spa credit and more.

Waldorf Astoria DIFC, Dubai

Waldorf Astoria DIFC is an urban retreat, perfect for those looking for a tranquil escape from city life but who want to travel only a short distance from home. The perfect location for exploring Downtown Dubai, The Dubai Mall and some of the city’s best restaurants in DIFC. The hotel features a relaxing rooftop pool and spa to unwind and treat yourself to some well-deserved “me time”. The chic rooftop lounge St Trop is also perfect for relaxing and enjoying the awe-inspiring skyline views.

For a lively dining experience, head to Bull and Bear, the signature steakhouse inspired by the iconic Waldorf Astoria New York original. Decorated in a sleek and tasteful style, this is the perfect spot to savour the incredible menu that offers an imaginative twist on the legendary meat eatery. And remember to try the iconic Waldorf Astoria Afternoon Tea in the Hotel’s Peacock Alley lounge and bar.

W Abu Dhabi – Yas Island

If you’re considering heading to the capital this summer, W Abu Dhabi is the city’s most stylish hotel. Perfect for a girly weekend or a couple’s retreat, there’s plenty to explore and enjoy! Nestled amidst the UAE’s entertainment hub’s vibrant energy, this hotel is in the perfect location for exploring some of the city’s most exciting landmarks. Step into a realm of indulgence as you relax in stylishly designed rooms boasting breathtaking views of the marina. Take a dip in the infinity pool, where the rooftop deck invites you to unwind and sip refreshing mocktails.

Indulge your palate at the hotel’s exquisite restaurants, tantalizing your taste buds with a fusion of global flavours. With its prime location, world-class amenities, and unparalleled service is a great way to spend your summer.

Rosewood Abu Dhabi 

Embark on an extraordinary 360-degree staycation as Rosewood Abu Dhabi joins forces with the esteemed Saadiyat Beach Club. This exclusive partnership seamlessly merges the coastal allure with urban opulence, enveloping you in a sensory symphony of leisure and luxury. From now until 30th September, bask in the elegance of Rosewood Abu Dhabi while immersing yourself in the breathtaking beauty of Saadiyat Island’s pristine beaches. Begin your day with an exquisite breakfast at Aqua, before heading to the allure of Saadiyat Beach Club. The Club features temperature-controlled pools, steam rooms, saunas, and a refreshing indoor plunge pool. Unwind further in the indoor jacuzzi or find solace on the shaded terrace, basking in the sun’s gentle caress. Retreat to Rosewood Abu Dhabi as the day unfolds, or visit the Galleria Mall for a shopping experience. Finish your day with a choice of seven outstanding restaurants and bars, or visit Sense Spa, an oasis of rejuvenation.

The Summer Beach Escape package includes complimentary entry to the luxurious Saadiyat Beach Club for each guest for every day of their stay at Rosewood Abu Dhabi. Guests will also receive a reduced room rate, including breakfast, plus they can enjoy 20% off the exquisite culinary offerings within the hotel, 20% off at the beach club food & beverage, and 20% off Sense, a Rosewood Spa®.

One of Britain’s most renowned chefs Heston Blumenthal OBE, has opened his concept restaurant Dinner in Dubai with an impressive selection of extraordinary and surprising dishes inspired by the flavours of The United Kingdom, dating back as far as the 13th century.

Blumenthal, who is known for his out-of-the-box cooking and creative concepts, began his Dinner concept in the United Kingdom in the late nineties after becoming fascinated by the historical tastes of his home country. With an “Alice in Wonderland” approach to presenting his dishes, combined with the Tudor dining experiences, he created an experience that guests will not forget in a hurry. Now for the first time, this unique concept has arrived in Dubai, and it really is as extraordinary as it sounds!

The original Dinner concept was created after years of research. Blumenthal became fascinated with historical dining and wanted to find a way of modernising it, offering guests a sense of the past, present and future through the flavours, presentation and style of the dishes. He began by studying 14th-century cookbooks such as those by the royal chefs of King Richard II; he worked with food historians, tapping into the world of the British Library and the team at King Henry VIII’s Hampton Court Palace to create something completely unique.

Located at the awe-inspiring Atlantis The Royal, Dinner overlooks the hotel’s Skyblaze fire and water fountain show. Upon entering the restaurant, guests will be greeted with the scents of frankincense, wood smoke and leather, creating a sensory atmosphere. Guests enter the restaurant via a panelled room where Victorian-style animal sculptures are built into the wood. As the entry door closes, a concealed automatic sliding door opens to reveal the restaurant and show kitchen, as well as the showpiece installation, ‘The Dinner Escapement’ (clock).

The menu, now available at the Dubai location, is an edible history through storytelling in the form of highly modern dishes inspired by a gastronomic insight from the past. We don’t want to give too much away. Still, some of the menu highlights include “Meat Fruit (c.1500)”, which appears to be a Mandarin but is actually an artistically disguised chicken liver parfait when it arrives at your table. It is regarded as one of Dinner by Heston’s most iconic dishes and is inspired by a traditional medieval dish called Pome Dorres or “apples of gold”; Dinner’s contemporary version of the dish features velvety chicken liver parfait disguised as a mandarin and is served with sourdough and requires three cooks on the cold larder station to work five hours every day to make.

Another highlight is the Salamagundy (c.1723), which is Dinner’s contemporary version of a 17th-century salad dish that features layers of smoked confit chicken, warm slices of beef bone marrow, pickled walnuts, braised salsify with bitter leaves and finished with freshly grated horseradish. Furthermore, the Powdered Duck Breast (c.1846), is an incredibly complex duck recipe, highlighting the level of work and detail that goes into each dish on the menu. The dish was inspired by a recipe for “Garnish of braised cabbages” in the 1846 edition of The Modern Cook by Charles Francatelli and comprises sous vide duck breasts paired with duck hearts and pickled cherries, with braised red cabbage and a red cabbage fluid gel. The word ‘powdered’ is an old term or phrase for ‘brined’ (which was a great way of preserving meat before refrigeration was invented); the team ‘brine’ the duck first with herbs and spices to add flavour to the meat.

And you cannot visit Dinner without indulging in an impressive selection of desserts. Guests are invited on a sweet discovery of the 19th century with the Tipsy Cake (c.1858), as well as the Liquid Nitrogen Ice Cream Trolly (c.1901), inspired by the work of Agnes B Marshall, a 19th-century culinary entrepreneur.

“I’m excited for guests to experience Dinner Dubai; although similar to Dinner in London, the Dubai venue has something extra special that our London guests won’t see, a giant pineapple escapement, which is the magical centrepiece of the restaurant, that also provides a functional element, turning the rotisserie which has roasted pineapples on it. Pineapples, historically, were unbelievably expensive; they were seen as unbelievable luxury… and so ours will signify adventure, exploration and discovery; Atlantis The Royal and Dubai were the perfect locations for Dinner outside of London, I like the idea of the juxtaposition of the old and the new, historically inspired recipes reimagined with modern techniques; so there’s the old and the new, housing it in an incredible new building; Atlantis, on the sea in Dubai.” Said Heston Blumenthal OBE.

Dinner by Heston Blumenthal is open daily from 6pm – 11pm. To find out more or to make a reservation log onto www.Dinnerbyhbdubai.com or call + 971 4 426 2444. @dinnerbyhbdubai.

Created by tashas founder Natasha Sideris and inspired by her Greek heritage, Avli by tashas has fast become one of Dubai’s most popular dining destinations.

The elegant interiors and home-style Greek dishes make many of Dubai’s resident’s regular visitors to this stylish restaurant. Avli perfectly combines elegant-rustic interiors with a homely feel, creating an atmosphere that keeps guests revisiting time and time again.

Green Salad

And now there are even more reasons to visit as the luxury eatery launches a new mouth-watering business lunch menu.

Taking you on an Athenian getaway during your lunch break, the new menu features a carefully curated selection of dishes that blend Greek flavours and a balanced Mediterranean diet.

Chicken Souvlaki

Developed by Avli by tashas’ Head Chef, Vlassia Anagnostou, this fine-tuned menu focuses on Athenian flavours and textures with a modern spin, with key ingredients used carefully selected and sourced from Greece to ensure a truly authentic taste.

Beginning with hot and cold mezze, some of our menu highlights include the Tuna Carpaccio with tomato sauce, preserved lemon oil dressing, the Calamari Salad, and the Spanakorizo Arancini.

Tuna Carpaccio

When it comes to main courses, there is a delicious selection on offer, including classics such as the Chicken Souvlaki served with Greek fries or traditional Moussake. The Red Snapper with grilled courgetti is also a must-try.

Don’t forget to save room for dessert, of which the Peach Pavlova and the Daktyla are a delicious sweet ending to your meal.

Daktyla

Location: Unit C-01, Ground Floor, Gate Village Building 9, DIFC, Dubai, UAE.

For reservations: Phone: +971 4359 0008, Email: info@avlibytashas.com

Our pick of the newest fragrances will whisk you away to the joy of summer.

Sisley Les Eaux Rêvées

Sisley’s new fragrance collections comprise six scents, each, in turn, fresh, floral, warm and spiced. These olfactory odes to nature express this imaginary place where inspirations collide, join together and become one – the inspirations of different generations of the d’Ornano family, the creators of Sisley. New to this collection, Eau Rêvée d’Hubert evokes the Geranium that Isabelle d’Ornano has pruned a thousand times. It is named in memory of Hubert d’Ornano, Sisley’s founder. Isabelle d’Ornano wanted this olfactory creation to open with the robust and original scent that arises when you rub the velvety leaves of her famous Pelargonium Tomentosum.

Dior La Collection Privée Dioriviera

Created by Francis Kurkdjian, Perfume Creation Director – Parfums Christian Dior, the new Dioriviera fragrance captures the spirit of the South of France’s home of perfume, Grasse, during the rose harvest. Surrounding Dior’s Château de la Colle Noire, the scent of roses during the harvest period is irresistible, addictive, defined and delicate. “The inspiration for the Dioriviera fragrance came to me suddenly in Provence, amid a field below the La Colle Noire estate. The southern sun was shining, the May roses were in bloom, and a warm breeze blew through the leaves of a majestic fig tree, my sole companion.” Said Francis Kurkdjian. “This magical moment was seared into my memory, and in that very instant, the desire to create a perfume arose.” He added.

Acqua Di Parma Arancia La Spugnatura Limited Edition

Acqua Di Parma celebrates a rare and precious citrus essence with its new limited edition fragrance. Traditionally used only to obtain the most precious essence from bergamot fruits, La Spugnatura is an antique extraction method practiced by a few artisans in Italy. This summer, the Maison explores the age-old technique on a different citrus fruit, the Arancia Vaniglia orange, to craft a new-limited edition scent.

Loewe Perfumes Paula’s Ibiza Fragrance Edition

As part of the annual Loewe Paula’s Ibiza collection, the brand has decided to create two perfumes that capture the essence of a Mediterranean island, a homage to the summer spirit that defines the Ibiza mindset in music and culture. The original LOEWE Paula’s Ibiza EDT is an irreverent composition, with beachy notes of mandarin, driftwood, frangipane, sand lily and patchouli oil while the LOEWE Paula’s Ibiza Eclectic EDT is hedonistic and wild with notes of orange flower absolute, jasmine sambac, incense, sandalwood, and musk. Both feature delectable gourmand notes of vanilla and coconut

Les Parfums Louis Vuitton Pacific Chill

This summer Louis Vuitton is transporting you to America’s Pacific Coast with the new Pacific Chill Cologne Perfume. Created by Master Perfumer Jacques Cavallier Belletrud, the latest scent offers a cool, purifying vibe with an ethereal, fruity mist and floral depth. The feel-good fragrance captures a sense of well-being, vitality and the pleasures that come from the light of a new day warming the skin. This scent is designed to uplift the mind, body and spirit and offer a fresh, warming sense of balance.

Q By Dolce&Gabbana

Q by Dolce&Gabbana was crafted by perfumer Daphne Bugey in Italy using exclusively the highest quality raw materials selected according to the fine fragrance criteria. The woody, fruity Eau de Parfum opens with the quintessentially Italian and tart Sicilian Lemon, revealed alongside luminous Blood Orange and glowing Jasmine petals. The delicious crunchiness of an irresistible scarlet red Cherry at the heart delivers a stunning contrast between the fresh and addictive zesty lemon. Tangy and sweet at the same time, these notes contrast perfectly while being complemented by creamy Heliotrope. Sharing commonality with K by Dolce&Gabbana, this perfume also builds on a fiery and sensual cedarwood base, amplified by the delicate sophistication of musks.

Elie Saab Elixir

The House of Elie Saab is introducing a new line of fragrances this summer, exploring the most sensual facet of femininity. Elie Saab Elixir creates a captivating scent that celebrates the sensuality of women, a symbol of absolute femininity. Perfumers Aurélien Guichard and Jérôme Di Marino came together to create this fragrance, a sumptuous oriental floral bouquet whose every facets evoke the haute couture creations. At the heart of the fragrance is the Cedretti iris, a variety that blooms in the cedar region of Lebanon. This is combined with the “love accord” of iris and topped with Lebanese Neroli and Italian Mandarin. To finish, a carnal accord, with amber and balsam tones of Myrrh and Benzoin, warms the note while a vanilla and musk accord unfold the infinite sensuality of this fragrance.

Brunello Cucinelli Pour Femme and Pour Homme

Brunello Cucinelli has revealed its first foray into the fragrance world with two new scents for men and women. In collaboration with EuroItalia this exciting new venture celebrates the culture of beauty and crafts that the brand has been cultivating for many years. The women’s fragrance offers up sweet chestnut, citruses (bergamot, mandarin, and orange blossom), pink pepper and prestige woods, among other notes. While the men’s fragrance lends voice to the essence of cypress harmoniously balanced by spicy juniper and other refined ingredients such as angelica, black pepper, clary sage and ginger.

Roja Parfums Isola Blu

Roja Parfums has launched an exquisite new fragrance capturing the scent of an endless, sophisticated summer in the Mediterranean. A five-star summer vacation has been captured in a fragrance by the British perfumer, and it will have you excited for the coming months. With just one spritz of this sophisticated citrus perfume, you’ll be transported to an endlessly beguiling summer by the sea. Key notes include citrus fruits such as lemon, lime, and apple combines with coconut, freshly cut grass and pink pepper. This captivating perfume is available in a limited number of bottles.

Words by Sheikha Majda Jaber Humoud Al Sabah, philanthropist, entrepreneur, and founder of Houna Initiative. 

According to a 2022 survey conducted by McKinsey Health Institute, nearly two-thirds of employees across four prominent GCC nations – Kuwait, United Arab Emirates (UAE), Kingdom of Saudi Arabia, and Qatar – have reported symptoms of poor mental health. In recent years, the relentless pace of modern life has captured millions of individuals in cycles of stress and burnout. Fuelled by a societal norm that glorifies constant productivity and trivialises self-care, the pressure to keep pace is undeniably intense.

Sadly, this mindset contributes to a toxic culture of neglecting mental well-being, thus exacerbating the silent crisis of mental health. Further emphasising on this upsetting reality, the survey also revealed that one in three GCC respondents reported burnout symptoms and struggles with physical health conditions. Based on these alarming stats, it has become clear that the necessity for widespread intervention has never been more pressing.

As we grapple with these unsettling findings, it’s vital that we turn our attention to effective solutions. Nowadays, we often underestimate the power of the outdoors and overlook the necessity of maintaining a connection with nature. Studies have actually shown that connecting with nature can significantly reduce stress hormones, increase feelings of happiness, and enhance overall well-being. The gentle warmth of the sun, the rustling of leaves in the wind, and the songs of birds perched on trees can, in their own quiet ways, coax our minds to shed their worries and find a sense of calmness within.

One might argue that our region’s scorching summer sun can limit our options when it comes to physical activities and being outdoors. However, while that might be true, there are plenty of alternatives to explore! Think an early sunrise yoga session, a short afternoon walk or an evening dip in the water; all these activities are potent catalysts in harmonising our body and mind. Let me tell you how.

More ‘feel-good’ hormones.

Engaging in outdoor activities such as walking, swimming, cycling, or hiking triggers the release of endorphins – our body’s natural mood lifters. These ‘feel-good hormones’ enhance our mood and serve as a natural counter to stress and anxiety. The result is not merely a healthier body but a state of enhanced mental well-being – a transformation that resonates at the core of our overall health. In fact, according to a study published in The Lancet Psychiatry Journal, people who engage in physical activity have 43.2% fewer days of poor mental health than individuals who don’t do any form of exercise.

Improved sleep

The ripple effects of physical activity and natural light exposure extend well beyond immediate mood enhancement and stress reduction. A key benefit, often overlooked, lies in their potent influence on our sleeping patterns. Engaging in physical activities and bathing in the glory of natural sunlight work in tandem to regulate our circadian rhythms – the internal ‘clocks’ that dictate our sleep-wake cycles. Irregular sleep patterns can lead to irritability, mood swings, and an increased risk of developing mood disorders such as depression and anxiety. Actually, a 2021 study found that participants were 2.5 times more likely to have mental distress when getting less than 6 hours of sleep on average compared to those with efficient sleeping patterns. Hence, quality sleep is not merely a luxury; it’s a health pillar that is as vital as balanced nutrition or regular exercise. In the realm of mental health, its significance is even more pronounced.

Cognitive stimulation

Engaging in different outdoor activities stimulates the brain and keeps it active, thus aiding in increased creativity, improved memory, enhanced problem-solving skills, as well as nurtured positive thinking and self-talk. Science also suggests that spending time outside can replenish depleted energy circuits. In fact, one study found that hikers were able to solve 47% more puzzles requiring creative thinking than other individuals. This cognitive stimulation immediately affects and improves our mental agility, allowing our bodies to cope with stress and anxiety.

Nurtured self-confidence

Embarking on different and new outdoor adventures, whether it’s harnessing the rhythm of the waves when surfing, savouring the patient thrill of fishing, or navigating the vast expanses with sailing, broadens our perspectives and enriches our life experiences, thus facilitating a robust sense of achievement that in turn bolsters our self-esteem – a key driver when it comes to our mental wellbeing. Cultivating self-confidence not only increases positive self-perception and reduces negative self-talk and self-criticism, it also strengthens our resilience and ability to overcome challenges and setbacks. Thus, as we welcome the warmth of the summer, let’s seize the opportunity to dive into new outdoor activities. By doing so, we are enriching our skillset and indulging our adventurous spirit and nurturing our mental health in a significant, sustainable way. In this pursuit of novel experiences, we find pleasure, passion, and peace of mind.

Self reflection

As the vibrant hustle of the world yields to the leisurely rhythm of summer, we find ourselves in the embrace of a slower pace, giving us the precious commodity of time. This seasonal shift can serve as a vital catalyst for reflection and introspection, an invitation to look inward and re-evaluate our paths. Carving out time in nature and embracing the outdoors can open doors to profound self-discovery. The serenity and calmness allows us to gain perspective on our lives, to assess our goals, values, and relationships with fresh eyes. We can explore what truly brings us joy, what challenges us, and where we might need to implement changes for a more fulfilling life trajectory.

The rising tide of mental health concerns within the GCC region is a stark reminder of the dire need to address this largely silent epidemic. While the reasons for this escalation are multifaceted and complex, the solutions may lie in simple acts that bring us back to the heart of our innate human nature. Embracing the outdoors can serve as a powerful tool in fostering mental well-being. The tranquillity of nature and the dynamism of physical activity synergistically harmonise to create an atmosphere that encourages the release of stress, improves mood, enhances sleep, stimulates cognitive function, bolsters self-confidence, and fosters introspection.

For the Bulgari Mediterranea High Jewellery 2023 collection, Lucia Silvestri wanted to get out of her comfort zone when it came to the choices of stones, colours, shapes, and designs. She took inspiration from worldwide to create a universal collection that will appeal to women from all walks of life. Silvestri joined the House of Bulgari when she was just 18 years old and has worked extremely closely with Gianni Bulgari for decades. She credits him for much of her knowledge and success; his vision inspires this collection. We find out more.

Tell us about the three verticals of this collection and some of the unusual stones you have worked with in these high jewellery pieces. 

When I was very young, one of the first lessons Mr Bulgari taught me was not to be shy with colours. Every time I start a new collection, I remember this sentence, and with the Mediterranea High Jewellery collection, I had the opportunity to move out of my comfort zone when it came to colours and stones. I thought about Africa, for example, the colours, the spices, the landscape and beauty of this region.

What is your favourite piece from this collection?

This is one of my favourite necklaces, and I met the client who bought it yesterday. When I designed this necklace, I started with the gems. When I saw the three Mandarin Garnets, I felt they had a fire inside them, they also made me think of the sun, and I felt they had to be combined with something very light. This is the first time we have used Citrine in high jewellery, which is out of our comfort zone, but they matched perfectly for this necklace. This necklace combines the cultures of Morocco and Venice, the architecture, and motifs that you can find in both locations. I was inspired by the spices and the desert when I created this piece. The Mandarin Garnet is a stone I wanted to work with for a while, but ten years ago, no one wanted to buy this stone. We at Bulgari started buying and using it in high jewellery, and now everyone wants it! I actually regret that I didn’t start using it sooner. The final touch came in the form of Onyx. For me, this necklace is spectacular, even from the back.

MUSE OF ROME

What is another special piece you can tell us about?

It’s difficult to say, but, this piece, Muse of Rome, is special to me because I followed the stone’s journey. When I first saw this emerald, it was not completely cut, it was just polished a little. The owner called me and asked for my suggestion for the cut. They had seen it as a faceted stone, but I told them this stone was too sweet to be faceted; there was something inside it that I felt could only be seen if it was cut into a sugarloaf. So, the cutter and the owner followed my suggestions, and I followed the cutting step-by-step. In the end, we have this beautiful sugarloaf with rounded corners, which makes all the difference. It’s over 200 carats, and it was a challenge to set such a huge gem in a contemporary way. You can wear this necklace in a modern way, and the eye is immediately drawn to this gem. It is very versatile because you can wear it in several ways. I love the fact that the artisan followed my suggestion about the idea of this necklace, but especially because I’m very close to this emerald; it makes it very special for me.

What has been the best comment you have received about this collection so far?

The best comment came from Mr Bulgari; he said: “Very good job!” I’m still crying about this! This was the best recognition I could have, and I told him he was my teacher.

What is a lesson you learnt from him that you cherish? 

I remember he told me: “Don’t buy a stone if you don’t know how you can use it.” So, from the beginning, when I was just 18 years old, I started to develop my creativity based on that point. He told me not to buy stones just because they are beautiful but to buy them because I could imagine them on a ring, necklace, etc., before I even made that purchase. I learned so many things from him, but this will remain in my mind forever.

What message would you send to your clients and friends in the Middle East?

I think women in the Middle East are Bulgari women. I can’t wait to share my creativity, the new colours and how I have gotten out of my comfort zone. We have explored so many cultures this year, so I expect to receive their feedback on the collection.

As one of Lebanon’s most successful wedding planners, Toni Breiss has created the perfect day for some of the region’s most influential couples.

His passion for perfection has seen him reach an impressive level of success with his events and weddings company Level Toni Breiss which is recognised all around the globe for its world-class luxury events. While Toni’s business began with a core focus on Beirut and Paris, he has since branched out, organising events and weddings across Europe, The Middle East, and The United States. He prides himself on only producing the best of the best for his clients, with each event or activation unique in its own way. Toni has gone from strength to strength over the past 20 years, with celebrity weddings, VIP events and even luxury brand consultancy on his portfolio. Now, as his biggest wedding ever is set to take place this season, we caught up with him to find out what’s next on his journey to success. 

Lake Como wedding

Tell us about your company and where you are at today.

We have been in the business for 20 years and are very pleased with our progress. Our company is expanding, and the scale of our events is increasing, which presents new and exciting challenges. Some of our events are now more global and international, which is very motivating and exciting. We have also expanded our work beyond Europe, Lebanon and KSA, into the extended MENA Region. We are also very proud to be working in the USA. Our agency specializes in creating unique and irreplicable designs for events, not just weddings and hotel openings but a vast range of luxurious events, including the Joy Awards in KSA, which is equivalent to the Emmy Awards for Arab countries. We have also opened a branch in our company specialising in consultancy for luxury brands, specifically those looking to open new boutiques and we are currently doing this for two high-end brands in the Middle East.

What first inspired you to get into the world of weddings and events? 

I love working on weddings and events because I am passionate about creating beautiful concepts. I enjoy seeing my ideas come to life and I love to see how a place can be transformed into something completely different. Everything we create is custom-made and unique. We have a love for remodelling an entire space into a new and full experience that captivates guests, transporting them into another world of beauty, that is what sets us apart.

Lake Como wedding

Tell us about your work in the Middle East and what clients expect from their events and weddings here.

The Middle East is one of our biggest markets. Many clients in the Middle East expect uniqueness and originality. They expect great new ideas, and they like to experiment with new choices of materials. It is a challenge because Middle Eastern women are very knowledgeable and have great taste. We are here to create new, fresh, and luxurious experiences that meet these expectations.

What are some of the biggest wedding trends for this year? 

I would say there aren’t too many specific wedding trends these days, if you are hiring a big designer, they are supposed to set the trends, not follow them. It’s not about flower types or colours, we design the trend for each event based on the style of the bride and groom, the colours we decide to play with, the tradition, and the period we are in. It’s about transforming the venue to make it look contemporary and unique, and it must be a new idea. 

You have worked with many interesting clients and celebrities – what have been some of the highlights? 

We are grateful to have had the chance to work with many high-profile clients. We have created weddings that cover 6000 to 7000 m² for hundreds of guests, and currently, we are building a wedding from scratch in Cairo to accommodate over a thousand guests in a ten-thousand-meter square area. We also had the pleasure of working with Tiffany Trump in the United States. Her wedding was very American-style, intimate, elegant, and refined. While we have worked with reputable families, the importance for us is not who they are, but rather what we can create for them.

In this issue, we are talking about success – in your opinion, what is the secret to success? 

The secret to success is hard work. You always must be present and hands-on, no matter how big your team is. You must be the first to arrive and the last to leave. You have to be passionate about your work and follow up on everything enthusiastically.

Is there anything that you have changed about your business since the impact of the pandemic?

Many things have changed. My mentality has changed, and we are now focusing on bigger and more challenging projects. The era has changed, especially our client’s demands. The sizes and timelines of weddings have also changed, and “living the experience” is becoming more and more important. Our internal organisation has evolved too, with people working differently but with the same passion and same productivity. Post-COVID, Zoom meetings have replaced in-person meetings, even many of our clients opt for online meetings although we might be available at the office. Hybrid work has become common, and we have had to adapt to these changes.

Working in events can be a stressful business – how do you keep calm when things get hectic?

I try to stay organised and centred as much as possible because I am the leader of everything that’s going on in a wedding or event. This means managing the progress with the production team, creative team, office team, florist team, caterers, photographers, and more! I manage my stress level so that everything stays smooth, and nothing gets out of control.

Tell us about yourself – how do you like to spend your time when you’re not working?

I like to relax and recharge my energy. I spend time with friends and family, which is very important to me. I also like to travel and to work out.

Tiffany Trump wedding

What is the biggest lesson you have learned throughout your career?

Be patient. VERY patient.

What piece of advice would you give to young entrepreneurs or others looking to start a business in the events industry?

Starting a business in the events industry can be a very long and exciting path, but it can also be exhausting. You need to have the will to fight day and night for it: even if it looks glamorous, behind the scenes it’s very tough. To succeed in this business, you need to put a lot of yourself out there.

What is the professional motto that you live by?

“You have to achieve success because you should not achieve failure.”

Who is someone that has inspired you throughout your career?

I mainly get inspired by anything that’s beautiful. It could be a piece of art or a beautiful nature scene. I also get inspired by many fashion designers and architects like Jerome Ville and Zaha Hadid. But my main inspiration remains beauty, anywhere I see it.

What else is in the pipeline for you for the rest of the year?

As we speak, we have a huge wedding under construction in Cairo, literally under construction as the venue for it is being built now! Then later this year, we have huge destination weddings, several boutique openings, and four-day weddings which include several events pre and post-wedding, one of them is in production in Spain right now. We also have a couple of luxurious events coming up. Follow us on social media to discover them!

As the summer approaches, we round up the latest looks for men and women to be seen in wherever you’re heading for the coming months.

Photography: Ziga Mihelcic
Styling & Direction: Lindsay Judge
Models: Kate at Fashion League & Borja at Signature Element

Hair & Makeup: Sophie Leach
Location: Mandarin Oriental, Jumeira

 

CHANEL

 

T-SHIRT: BRUNELLO CUCINELLI, SHORTS: BOSS

 

CLOTHING AND ACCESSORIES: LORO PIANA
HER SHOES: EMPORIO ARMANI
HIS SHOES: TOD’S

 

MOSCHINO

 

RALPH LAUREN
BAG: EMPORIO ARMANI

 

SWIMSUIT: ERES
HAT: LORO PIANA

 

VILEBREQUIN
EYEWEAR: CARTIER

 

LOEWE
SHOES: ANCIENT GREEK SANDALS

 

DIOR

 

TALLER MARMO
SHOES: CAROLINA HERRERA

 

CELINE

 

ETRO
EYEWEAR: CARTIER

Born in London in 2013, Thameen is a quintessentially British brand with a twist. With a history in the craftsmanship and beauty of fine perfumery, the brand has remained in its home city for the past ten years, stocked exclusively at Selfridges.

But that has all changed. After David Crickmore became CEO, the brand implemented a new global strategy, expanding worldwide and setting up a global distribution network including Western and Eastern Europe, North and South America, Asia and the Gulf countries. Under Crickmore’s tenure, Thameen will bring to the fragrance industry and international markets a forward-thinking British semantics with a purposeful spirit adapting to an ever-changing landscape in perfumery.

To reposition and re-tell the brand’s story, David enlisted Christopher Chong’s knowledge, who has assumed the role of Brand & Artistic Director at Thameen. He brings over a decade of experience from the celebrated fragrance brand Amouage and will oversee all rand and fragrance developments moving forward. As the brand launches its latest perfume, we learn more about the vision and why we can expect to see a lot more of Thameen in the future.

Take us through the universe of Thameen and the brand’s DNA and focus.

Until recently, Thameen was exclusively available in Selfridges, London, for ten years, tailoring for a specific demographic. It was slightly under the radar but still a very respected brand. Then the pandemic hit, and of course, the department stores couldn’t operate, so the brand started to think outside of their traditional points of sale and outside of London. At that time, one of my former colleagues was brought in to consult and advise the company on restructuring the brand to become a much more international brand. They started with the sales team, then worked on the logistics, and that’s when they came to me!

We did a lot of quite a harsh auditing of the brand. The CEO asked me what I thought; he didn’t ask me to join them at this point; he just wanted my opinion. And I was very honest. I highlighted the negative points, but outside of that pool of negativity, I told him there was a lot of positivity and potential. The brand message needs to be clear, and the great thing is Thameen was still relatively unknown, so we had room for improvement. I told them they needed to rethink their strategy to reach a wider clientele and align with the brand’s message. To share the story of the history, the creative process, the artistry – Perfume, after all, is about emotions, and if you can’t tell that story of emotion, then no one will buy the product. And that’s when he asked me to join! At first, I was hesitant, but eventually, I did, and the rest is history!

What’s your global vision for the brand?

When I thought about the brand, I realised it was still relatively untouched; it needed guidance and moulding to take it to the next level, and that’s where I came in. Rebooting a brand requires elements that are outside of my control. I can bring in the best photographer, perfumer, etc., but it also needs the brand to be in the right place at the right time, which was the moment for Thameen. The name “Thameen” means precious in Arabic; I wanted to capitalise on this, especially since this is a British brand with a foreign name. At a time when diversity was such a relevant topic, this was where my story began as I felt this unusual name allowed the brand to connect with the millions of people out there whose heritage may not be connected to the place, they are living in. There are no genuinely diverse British perfume brands out there now, and that is the space Thameen is going to fill. I wanted to create a positive and inclusive image that embraces everyone. In short, this is my vision moving forward, to take the best parts of the brand and make them even better.

What about the packaging and visuals that signify the brand?

I want to show the world that part of diversity is authenticity, and so I, therefore, want to show them the real juice of the fragrance, so I kept the bottle the same, but I removed the Thameen blue from the glass, used a frosted glass and put the blue into the lettering instead. We also chose to use silver on the lid. It’s very classy and simple.

Then we looked into the logo and simplified it to create something relatable and instantly recognisable. We devised a logo based on British heritage but modernised it. We adapted a British Cypher to create a scripted “TT” representing our heritage and how it is important to the brand, but we are taking it forward.

What can you tell us about the fragrances themselves, both the current lines and the new products?

When I began working at the brand, there were two collections: the Sovereign and the Treasure collections. These will remain, and we have worked on some new additions. I call myself an “artist in residence” because I come to Thameen with a lot of artistic and emotional baggage – it’s not like I’m starting from the very beginning. I decided the strongest thing Thameen can have is to bring my artistic energy and experience to the brand and create this new artistic partnership.

We have developed a new collection that is a style I have never worked on, and the brand has never had before. The Britologne collection is a collection of colognes that pay respect to British perfumery but also give it a modern twist. For me, cologne is generally quite boring – it’s quite aromatic, citrusy, and herby, it’s not long-lasting, it is usually five to ten per cent concentration which for me is not enough. My style is to have a fragrance with longevity, with many elements to it, so it’s strong, loud and captivating. I want the fragrance to tell a story throughout the day. So I decided to recategorise the fragrances as Cologne Elixir. The core structure is a classic cologne structure; then the elixir is the playful part that gives it a twist and originality. To create that longevity, we had to pump up the concentration to 25 per cent, which is exceptionally high, and then we made sure each fragrance had the classic base with a twist. So it’s a hybrid fragrance.

We are launching the new collection in three drops, and it tells the story of London’s Covent Garden, which in my opinion, is the centre of London. People go there to meet friends, to go to the theatre, for shopping, restaurants, it’s the lively centre of London, and it’s also the location of Thameen’s head office, so I wanted to pay tribute to that. So this year we will launch the Covent Garden trilogy consisting of three perfumes. Each one is so unique I decided to launch them each individually throughout the year to give them the time and space to be enjoyed and appreciated. I want to make sure customers are aware of launching too many perfumes at the same time, and I want them to have time to enjoy and discover each one individually.

The first fragrance was Fanfare. For this fragrance, I was inspired by Covent Garden Flower Market and musicals such as My Fair Lady. I engaged Bruno Jovanovic, who is a dear friend, to interpret this into a fragrance. It’s very unexpected and unique. He captured not just the flowers from the flower market, but he added a lot of lemon, orange blossom, because of the citrus ingredients typical of a cologne. So he turned the flower market into a fantasy that will make you want to dance all night.

What about the second fragrance launching this month?

For the second fragrance Bohemian Infusion, I’m taking the world to the Piazza in Covent Garden. For 400 years, this place was a working market, but it is now a heritage site. I took inspiration from the late 18th century and the Edwardian Period when there was a very daring, colourful and expressive scene in London, and I wanted

to capture this spirit. I engaged perfumers Maurice Roucel and Alexandra Carlin for this fragrance. They wanted to work with the idea of the art concept Chiaroscuro. This concept plays with natural light and shadows in paintings, film and photography. We applied this concept to the construction of the fragrance. Combining brightness and darkness together, they used very specific ingredients to mimic this. So for the cologne structure or the light, we have ingredients such as grapefruit, Petitgrain and blackcurrant. Then we start to move into the shadow side with Artemisia and Myrtle. Then we have rare Longoza berries. When all of these combine, it gives that light and dark effect.

How do you think Thameen London is appealing to clients in the Middle East?

I want to push the brand’s olfactive boundaries and always challenge and move forward with what we offer. The Arab customers are the most knowledgeable and daring in perfume, so I think we are a perfect fit for the brand.

What is the proposed retail strategy globally and here in the region?

We already started actioning the retail plan worldwide, so things are happening quickly. We are now present in all GCC countries. We teamed up with Chalhoub Group, and we are within department stores across the Middle East and our first standalone store in Riyadh. We are also now in many markets in Africa, North America, Europe, and Asia, and now we are infiltrating into new markets. We are stocked in a lot of independent stores in America. So it’s happening very quickly!

I can also reveal that we will soon have a standalone store opening in Dubai Mall, with the official opening coming in September. And then eventually we will open a standalone store in London.

What is something you would like to do with the brand that you haven’t done yet?

I want to take it to the level where we are recognised globally, and I want Thameen’s name to be mentioned whenever people talk about perfume. I would like Thameen to become the benchmark of artistic perfume.

What do you think is challenging with the fragrance industry today that you would like to see change?

There is no originality. Brands must do their own thing and stop following other people’s success stories. Just because something worked for another brand, doesn’t mean it will work for you.

What is the professional motto you live by?

You are never at the top of your game. Every day is a learning experience; you can always learn something from someone.

What’s the first fragrance you remember from your childhood?

Chanel No.5. It was a gift that my father gave to my mother when I was four years old, and I was fascinated by the smell and the bottle. It took me out of reality into a world that is perfection.

How would you describe Thameen in one word?

Progressive.

What message would you send to our readers and fans of the brand in the Middle East?

Come and discover more about the brand because it speaks to you as an individual.

This summer, I want readers to take time to engage with new technological advancements because, by September, the world will have changed again due to the fast-paced movement of technology today. There is no avoiding it, so it’s better to be prepared than to be unprepared and surprised. Author Jeremy Rifkin wrote a book called “Zero Marginal Cost Society”, explaining how anything technology touches becomes free of charge. All things that previously came at a cost, from music to photos to communication, are now free of charge due to technological developments becoming available.

Next, we will see transportation and energy production becoming free, as has already happened with communication. A man called Salim Ishmail drove from Miami to Toronto in 2021. At this point, 15 per cent of the drive was automated. Then, six months ago, he made the reverse trip from Toronto to Miami, and 80 per cent of the drive was automated. That was possible because, during the drive, he stopped off and charged his car for free. And so, in this way, transportation is becoming free; electric vehicles are making this possible. Yes, you have to make the initial investment in your car, but when it comes to charging, you will not pay for that service as you go along. And next will be energy production and usage.

Besides all these free products and commodities, the big thing going free now is services. And this affects all of us. By services, I mean experts, lawyers, nutritionists etc.; all of this is or will soon be available to us for free. So all of the skillsets of professionals will be available at no cost. In a recent interview Sam Altman, CEO of Open AI, was asked: “What’s your business model for making money from Open AI and Chat GPT?” And his response was: “We don’t know yet; we will ask Chat GPT when we think we are ready to ask it!” So services are going in such a direction that the owner of Open AI doesn’t know how to monetise his own platform. To the point that he is going to ask his own technology for the answer! Now think about all the services that are or will be coming out of Chat GPT. Your brain does not have that same capability.

To understand this process, there is a concept called the Six D’s: Digitised, Deceptive, Disruptive, Demonetised, Dematerialised and Democratised. The first D is Digitised; everything in this world is translated into a digital concept. Then it becomes Dematerialised, which means products or services that were previously physical are now available virtually. The third D, Deceptive, is the most important. The Deceptive phase is the part that catches us all out. As humans, we are so focused on today that we are not thinking about how technology is coming and is going to change everything. Then we have the Demonetised phase, followed by the Disruptive and finally, the Democratised phase, meaning that these free services can be accessed by anyone, not just those within a particular category. And this process is currently happening in every industry.

We must also reassess how we engage with technology as humans. People of a certain age will think certain technological advancements are extraordinary and others are not. For example, anything that was invented before we were born, we believe it is normal. Someone under the age of 35 would not think that electricity is a massive technological advancement. The same goes for televisions or telephones because these things have always been part of our lives. But if you talk to a 35-year-old about the latest computer or AI, they are much more likely to become overwhelmed. Why? Because, as humans, we find it challenging to deal with change or anything that is introduced as new. We see this with parents not wanting their kids to be too into technology or gaming, and this is because they don’t understand it. Actually, technology and gaming are the future for these children.

So, we all need to consider this over the summer period. Think about how much time you or your family are spending in the future. Are you exposing yourself and your family to what’s coming? Are you ready to unlearn to relearn new skills that will be required in the future world? If the answer is no, it’s time to start engaging with it.

Human skills and engagement are not being disrupted. Those things will still be around, and their value will increase, but we need to consider adding value to how we work. And suppose we are stuck in the deceptive phase, and we are over 35 years old; in that case, it’s a perfect storm for you to disengage with anything new because you don’t know how to add value in this new world because of your age and you are forced into the defective phase, and you can see things happening overnight.

So for people who fall into this category especially, take the time to relax but engage this summer. The more you engage with the future, the more scary it will be, but the more you will be able to move forward. So enjoy your summer break but make sure you keep engaged, and then you can come back to a world in September that will be completely different again, so at least you will be prepared.

Since its inception in 1992, Bell & Ross has been striving to be different. This bold brand arrived on the scene and shook up the watch industry, which at the time, was highly saturated by long-lived watch Maisons. Founded by college friends Bruno Belamich (Bell) and Carlos A. Rosillo (Ross) the company began producing square watches that became their signature style, inspired by the instruments found in aircraft cockpits. Bell & Ross has found its firm place in the market over the past years and while it is still a relatively new brand its strong identity and instantly recognisable design have made it increasingly popular around the world, including in the Middle East.

This year the brand took part in the Watches & Wonders fair in Geneva for the first time. Bell & Ross presented three new novelties enriching its current collections. The BR 03-93 GMT BLUE is an instrument watch with duel time reading continuing the brand’s voyager approach, the BR 03-92 DIVER WHITE BRONZE evokes the glorious hours of the first underwater explorations with a modern flair. And the BR 05 Green Gold with a green dial represents victory. Here we find out more about the new timepieces as well as what’s in the pipeline for the brand.

Tell us about the recent Watches & Wonders presentation and what were the key takeaways for the brand this year.

Last year was an opportunity for us to see how the salon works and to understand if it was interesting for our company to participate. For this edition, we were happy and honoured to be part of Watches and Wonders Geneva. It was a unique opportunity to present our 2023 novelty to journalists as well as our loyal and new dealers from around the world. For our first time participating in Watches & Wonders, we wanted to mainly focus on the new core range which launched at the end of last year: the BR-X5. It is a great honour for us to enter the very closed “club” of Manufacture movements. Kenissi has created a movement specifically for us, with a power reserve of 72 hours, a large date window and a power reserve indicator on the dial. With this new range, we are moving significantly upmarket. In addition, it was essential for Bell & Ross to enrich its core range with new versions such as the novelties unveiled in Geneva: the BR 05 Green Gold, the BR 03-92 Diver White Bronze and the BR 03-03 GMT Blue.

Carlos-Antonio Rosillo

Tell us about the Diving line at Bell & Ross and how it is positioned.

The BR 03-92 Diver is the first square diving watch created by Bell & Ross. It was designed especially for professionals and meets the international standards governing diving watches. Bell & Ross has had in-depth expertise in underwater matters since 1997 when it released the Hydromax, its first diver’s watch. With this model the brand achieved a world record for perfect watertightness to a depth of 11,100 metres, made possible by perfectly filling the case with a patented transparent fluorinated oil: a major innovation. Ten years later, a second diver’s watch emerges, with the BR 02 collection dedicated specifically to the underwater world. With its barrel-shaped case, this family of watches is immediately recognizable. Technically speaking, the BR 02 is equipped with a helium decompression valve and an ultra-resistant domed sapphire crystal: essential elements for saturation diving. But not all Bell & Ross Diver’s watches are round. As of 2017, Bell & Ross took on a new aesthetic with the arrival of the BR 03-92 Diver model. Part of the BR 03 family of instrument watches for professionals and civilians alike, in true watchmaking fashion, it perfectly reinterprets the functionality of fighter plane dashboards, featuring the signature ‘round within a square’ case. Above all, like all the instrument watches in the BR 03 family, the BR 03-92 Diver are conceived and designed as professional quality tools for divers. In order to meet their expectations, it complies with international standard ISO-6425, which states that a “diver’s watch” is a “watch designed to withstand diving in water at depths of at least 100 metres and equipped with a secured measuring system”. Underwater, the indices must still be visible at a distance of 25cm in the dark. A diver’s watch must also be magnetic-resistant, shock-resistant and, of course, resistant to salt water. Complying perfectly with all these demanding specifications, the BR 03-92 Diver is an underwater instrument worthy of its name according to Swiss standards. In 2018, Bell & Ross added a remarkable new variation by cutting the 42 x 42mm square case in bronze: a material historically linked to the maritime world. This is a family that would go on to see great success, welcoming several new releases each year. It included models in steel and bronze, with red, green, blue and even black dials… Some collectors sought to own every version. This year, the BR 03-92 Diver White Bronze joins the elegant and athletic line. Paired with a pearl white dial, the bronze case of the new BR 03-92 Diver White Bronze, evokes the glorious hours of the first underwater explorations with a modern flair. It’s a new chapter in the Bell & Ross nautical odyssey.

The BR 05 Gold Green is a stunning watch, what can you tell us about the choice of green on this dial, as well as the brand’s gold watch offering?

The new BR 05 Green Gold is the third link in the gold family, its case is made entirely in gold. The different models in this collection are characterised by a distinctive colour on the dial. The green on the BR 05 Green Gold evokes victory. It’s the colour of trees – more precisely, that of the fir or spruce tree. On the new BR 05 Green Gold dial, the green shade takes on a luminous, sparkling tone. The painted metal plate that serves as the base of the dial has a sunburst effect, changing colour when tilted. Depending on the reflections hitting its surface, it varies between an almost fluorescent shade all the way to dark bottle green. The depth of this unique colour is obtained thanks to the numerous coats of tinted green varnish.

Bell & Ross is a brand that creates experiences around its products – what can you tell us about this and how do you connect with clients and create a community feel around the brand?

Since the beginning, Bell & Ross aims to create useful timepieces that become tools in the hands of professionals working under extreme conditions. On-board instrumentation has always been the key to entering the Bell & Ross universe. The universe in which we immerse our customers is essential. Through our story and our universe, we create a strong link and an emotional connection with them. We are attentive to the request and desires of our customers, for example, the launch of the BR-X5 range allows us to respond to a request from customers looking for a Manufacture movement. We also differentiate ourselves thanks to our original and identifiable design. We have a great community at Bell & Ross, a community of enthusiasts who have a great interest in each of the company’s models and we are delighted to maintain this strong link with them. We have also managed to build a large community thanks to our various partnerships with the Patrouille de France for aviation, Alpine for the F1 and Tara Foundation around the oceans. We find the three pillars: Air, Land and Sea that speak to a large community.

Tell us about the new BR 03 GMT – what is different from the previous GMT watches?

With the new BR 03-93 GMT BLUE, an instrument watch with dual time zone reading, Bell & Ross continues its voyager approach with a colourway that’s rare, elegant, and subtle. The previous BR 03_93 GMT had a black dial with a black and red two-tone bezel. This year Bell & Ross opted for the blue colour of the sky. A new version to meet a wider audience!

How would you assess the watchmaking industry today?

The Manufacture is a must-have, the creativity makes the difference and the brands who have an icon have a powerful strength.

What else can we expect to see coming for the rest of the year, particularly in the Middle East – can you give us a sneak peek?

As we do every year, we will introduce watches in our key categories: aviation, city, and instrument watches. Through the shapes, sizes, colours, materials, and functions, we will evolve our collection. Without forgetting, of course, the introduction of novelties within the framework of our partnerships such as the Patrouille de France for aviation, Alpine for car racing and maybe we will introduce something with our new partnership; Tara. We are also developing our new high-end collection of the BR-X5.

What is something you would still like to achieve with the brand?

Our plan for the coming years is to consolidate our BR-X5 range and strengthen our partnership with Kenissi. We would like to continue to develop our international presence and maintain our icons (BR 03) and our best sellers (BR 05) to meet our customers’ expectations.

Tell us about your passion for watchmaking – what do you look for from a timepiece?

Form and substance with the design, the engineering, and the watchmaking manufacture.

What is the professional motto that you live by?

Our tagline is: “From the cockpit to the wrist”. In the quest to create the ideal utilitarian watch, we broke traditional watchmaking codes in 2005 with the simple idea of turning a plane’s cockpit into a wristwatch. I think the strength of our company is our very strong DNA, a Bell & Ross watch is immediately recognisable, and we have from the beginning marked a very strong identity. More than a concept, this motto always reminds us of our origin: to create timepieces perfectly suited for professional use.