Designing for a jewellery brand like Fabergé is like delving into a treasure trove of history. Born in 1842 the brand is one of the oldest jewellery houses in the world and its creativity has continued to inspire for generations.

Combining fine art with high jewellery and watchmaking, Fabergé has produced some of the most complicated, precious designs ever to be made and today, it continues to be inspired by its heritage, while at the same time remaining relevant for today’s consumer. Born in Finland, Liisa Tallgren grew up surrounded by creative influences and her love for art and painting soon developed into a passion for metalwork. In 2006 Liisa gained a BA Hons in Silversmithing, Goldsmithing and Jewellery which began her career in jewellery design.

Liisa joined Fabergé as their Designer in 2013. More than just a traditional designer Liisa is heavily involved in the full design process from initial concepts, through to technical drawings. An artist at heart, she also creates beautiful paintings of bespoke creations which are gifted to clients, offering a personal touch to her designs.

Fabergé has recently unveiled a one-of-a-kind Majesty Clutch Bag which is available exclusively at The Dubai Mall store. This exquisite piece is the first wearable object of its kind to be created by the house since 1917. Its opulent design celebrates the glamour and splendour of Fabergé’s rich heritage in a contemporary design. Here we discover more on this exceptional piece with Liisa Tallgren as well as the secrets behind designing jewellery for such a unique Maison.

Can you tell us about your vision and direction for the design at Fabergé?

My vision for Fabergé is to create jewellery and objet d’arts to the highest standard of design and craftsmanship, something that will be cherished by the owners for years to come.

How do you think your creative background benefits you when working for a brand that has such a rich history in creativity?

I went to a school where we didn’t have printed school books, instead we had to write the text and draw the pictures ourselves. I especially loved illustrating biology and art history. Drawing and painting always felt natural and those skills are crucial for communicating design ideas. Experimenting with different materials, such as wood or clay, helps me to understand three-dimensional volume and how the characteristics of each material affect the look and practicality of the creation.

What is an era or piece from Fabergé’s heritage they you are most amazed by?

The Imperial Lilies of the Valley Egg of 1898. The egg is decorated with pink enamel, the recipe of which has been lost over time and cannot be replicated at present. Pearls are presented as lilies of the valley and have very subtle diamond accents. The design as a whole is almost kitsch, but the combination of colours and textures is stunning and somehow makes it all work.

Tell us about some of the latest creations you have designed?

I mainly work on bespoke designs which are confidential. They vary in size and complexity but there have been a few especially nice pieces involving coloured gemstones and enamel recently. One of the highlights has definitely been the Game of Thrones Egg, which is a collaboration with the Game of Thrones costume designer, Michele Clapton. The egg is the most complex and precious piece we have made so far and it is amazing to see something of that calibre being made today.

Lilies of the Valley egg

What can you tell us about the Majesty Clutch Bag that has been designed exclusively for the UAE?

The Majesty Clutch Bag is a one-of-a-kind masterpiece and is the first wearable object of its kind created by Fabergé since 1917. This exceptional piece has been created from carved rock crystal, carved natural turquoise and teal blue guilloche enamel, all set in 18k yellow, white and rose gold and adorned with a multitude of gemstones including diamonds, pearls, yellow and pink sapphires, tsavorites, Gemfields Mozambican rubies and Zambian emeralds. This unique combination of materials plays with both colour and transparency to create a striking accessory that pushes the boundaries of design.

How do you think women in the Middle East resonate with Fabergé’s designs and brand DNA?

Fabergé’s pieces are appreciated around the globe for their timeless design and immaculate craftsmanship!

Romanov Necklace Sketch

Tell us a little about your creative process?

I sketch by hand until something I feel is worth developing emerges on paper. The next step is drawing a vector file which helps with accuracy and speed, and at that stage I draw multiple versions, always making a small difference each time, working with scale and proportions. Ideas come very easily and quickly but narrowing them down and refining them to a form that works in the real world is the tricky part. Sometimes the best design is something very traditional with a small twist in its details.

Can you tell us a little about the process when you are creating bespoke pieces for clients?

I rarely meet clients in person as they can be based anywhere in the world, so I receive all the details for requests from our lovely sales team. The requests are very different, sometimes clients want something very specific, in which case I need to follow instructions carefully or do research on their chosen theme. But it always starts with a hand-drawn sketch.

What is something you would love to design that you haven’t done yet?

A chandelier!

When are you at your most creative state of mind?

When I have had a cup of coffee and some chocolates!

Who or what inspires you the most?

Nature, gardens and people who make something out of nothing.

As well as designing, we know you do a lot of painting – tell us about this and how do the two complement each other in your role at Fabergé?

There is so much to learn about shapes and colours that the learning is ongoing, at least for me. Artists and designers often talk about the story behind an artwork with words, but I think shapes and colours also communicate by themselves. A shape can look happy or sad without a text that describes it, but like words, visual language can also deceive. These discoveries are what drive me to learn more about visual expression and the more I do it, the more I learn. This supports my design projects because good illustration skills are crucial for a designer, and so is understanding the overall feeling or atmosphere of an artwork or object. Painting and designing are similar but different enough to give a refreshing break from each other.

What else can we expect to see for the rest of the year and into 2022?

We keep a lot under wraps, but it involves colour and sparkle!

What is a decade or era throughout Fabergé’s history that inspires you the most?

What I admire the most in Fabergé before the revolution is the skilled enamel work, and the use of colour and the combination of textures in general, and the way materials were selected based on their beauty rather than just the value. Of course, the current decade is the most exciting in a way because of the freedom of expression that followed modernism and postmodernism and all the new techniques and materials that are available. The unknown can be scary but also exciting!

What is your favourite stone to work with?

I love working with a range of colours rather than just one, both precious and semi-precious. But, if I had to pick one it would be emerald.

Parisian jeweller FRED has opened its first boutique in Dubai, located at The Dubai Mall.

Founded by Fred Samuel in 1936 as a “Creative Modern Jewellery” FRED offers unexpected contemporary designs that have been unique and timeless since the beginning.

Fred Samuel has always had a passion for the Middle East. A passionate traveller who was interested in every culture he would scour the world for sources of inspiration. For many years he created pieces for the private collections of key figures in Middle East Royal families as well as VIP clients in the region.

The jeweller was passionate about bringing to life the dreams of his special clients. He said; “I remember one day a prince coming to see us with a piece of material from his daughter’s wedding dress. He asked us to replicate in a necklace the material’s golden embroidery design. The idea appealed to me enormously with the prospect of such fine craftsmanship! In my mind’s eye I saw the most decorative styles of cloth, imagining the intricate work necessary: rose-cut diamond or pear pearl, tallow-drop ruby or emerald-cut sapphire. Round, marquise, trapeze, baguette or square, I ran through the different cuts, each with its characteristic sparkle. Coming back to the prince’s order, in the end we recreated the motif on a gold necklace with brilliants accompanied by clip-on earrings, a bracelet and ring in the same subtle style.”

Over the years many impressive commissions have strengthened the jeweller’s relationship with the region and today, the brand opens its first store in Dubai. “The creative audacity and taste for celebrating life’s moments, both little and large, the joie de vivre so prized by the Maison FRED, are reflected in the refinement of a Middle Eastern art of living that is sun-filled and sophisticated”, explains Valérie Samuel, the Maison’s Vice President and Artistic Director as well as the granddaughter of the founder, Fred Samuel.

The boutique features architecture inspired by the French Riviera, a place that was close to the jeweller’s heart. With warm lighting it immediately feels like home and a sand-coloured façade features three large Mediterranean-style arches in pink gold.

Inside, the brand’s heritage is explored across the space. Two separate areas are dedicated to men’s and women’s jewellery featuring iconic collections, as well as coloured stones and modern interchangeable pieces.

The interior design of the store reflects the passion for sailing that Fred Samuel and his two sons had for many decades. Two pink metallic screens decorated with the FRED pattern open onto a lounge blending art with technology. Hung in the Maison’s signature blue, the space has a floor of sand-coloured travertine warmed by a rug depicting the sun’s rays. It is decorated with an original work by the designer and artist Vincent Darré.

The boutique is located at Fashion Avenue, The Dubai Mall.

November 10th 2021 was a big night for fashion as the CFDA Awards in New York honoured some of the industry’s biggest names of the year.

Zendaya took home the big prize of the night as she was given the Fashion Icon Award wowed in s red ensemble by Vera Wang, while Anya Taylor Joy was awarded Face of the Year while wearing a playful Oscar de la Renta look. Scroll down to see more of the best dressed men and women from the night.

Anya Taylor-Joy

Tom Ford

Cara Delevingne

Emily Ratajkowski

Zendaya wearing Vera Wang

Emily Blunt

We discover the beauty of Madrid’s most luxurious property.

For 110 years an iconic hotel destination has defined Madrid’s skyline. This year the Hotel Ritz Madrid, which is located within a stunning Belle Époque palace in the famous Golden Triangle of Art, has reopened as Mandarin Oriental Ritz, offering a new level of luxury combined with the timeless style that is synonymous with the Mandarin Oriental Group. After completing the largest renovation in the building’s history the hotel reopened in April 2021 with a new look that celebrates heritage and style. Renowned Spanish architect, Rafael de La-Hoz, and internationally acclaimed French designers, Gilles & Boissier, collaborated on the project, restoring the hotel with careful skill, resulting in the most sought after accommodation in the city.

On arrival you’ll be blown away by the elegance of this world-class destination, welcomed by the charm and warmth of this city, you’ll immediately feel at home. Modern architecture combines with traditional elements for a perfect fusion of old meets new. After being welcomed, make your way through the elegantly decorated hallways to your room.

Rooms & Suites

The hotel houses 100 rooms and 53 spacious suites ranging in size from 29 square metres to 188 square metres. Spread over the top six floors of the building the room’s décor has a classic feel with an Oriental twist. A soothing colour palette, luxurious fabrics and modern design accents make each room feel like home. Many rooms have impressive views of the city while some are overlooking the iconic Prado Museum.

All rooms feature state-of-the-art technology and luxury custom-made furnishings. Light is one of the most magical elements of these rooms with large windows designed to let as much daylight as possible flood into the rooms. Neutral tones also give way to a fresh light interior that has touches of home. For longer stays, two new suites are the epitome of elegance. The Mandarin and Ritz Suites are located in the turrets of the building, on the top floor and feature everything you need for an indulgent experience including a private balcony with beautiful views across the historical city.

Food & Dining

The hotel features five restaurants and bars designed and developed by Spanish Chef Quique Dacosta. Dacosta was previously awarded five Michelin stars for two of his restaurants and is widely regarded as one of the most exciting chefs working in Europe today. He brings his know-how and expertise to Madrid’s finest hotel through a wide range of dining destinations. The hotel’s signature restaurant Deessa is set in an impressive regal room; the Algonso XIII room with an outside terrace overlooking the Ritz Garden. The ultimate in opulent dining Deessa serves two extensive degustation menus, available for lunch and dinner.

Personally designed by Chef Dacosta the “Quique Dacosta Classics” and “QDRITZ Contemporary” menus showcase the finest in Mediterranean cuisine, using the best quality ingredients, presented in a modern, out-of-the-box way. We won’t give too much away as it’s better you have this experience first-hand but it’s not to be missed! Set underneath a stunning glass-domed ceiling, Palm Court offers two alternative dining destinations. Hall Alto is the perfect place for meeting friends and guests, while you relax and enjoy afternoon tea or a light lunch. While Hall Bajo is a more relaxed option offering a wide selection of classic dishes with a modern twist. And while you’re there make sure to visit the hotel’s numerous bars and lounges, perfect for catching up with friends or unwinding after a busy day exploring the city.

Spa & Wellness

No trip is complete without a relaxing spa day and you surely won’t be disappointed. A brand new state-of-the-art wellness centre is the perfect haven from the hustle and bustle of the city. The new wellbeing destination features an indoor swimming pool, a vitality pool, experience showers, a full fitness centre and treatment rooms offering a carefully curated menu of treatments focused on restoring your mind, body and soul. Designed by The Beauty Concept the spa menu comprises a selection of bespoke and holistic therapies that will leave you feeling in complete harmony. We highly recommend trying the Jet Lag body ritual if you’ve just come off a long flight, or for total relaxation, try the Calm and De-Stress Massage.

For more information visit: www.mandarinoriental.com.

Wilhelm Schmid, CEO of A. Lange & Söhne discusses the watchmaker’s latest limited edition timepiece and the future of the brand in the Middle East

On October 24th A. Lange & Söhne unveiled one of its most exciting timepieces yet. The limited edition The ZEITWERK HONEYGOLD “Lumen” timepiece is the latest addition to the brand’s ZEITWERK family which offers the most revolutionary technology and design concepts in fine watchmaking. With a new, cutting-edge movement this timepiece is limited to just 200 pieces due to its complicated movement which took years to create. As the timepiece debuted last month in Dubai, CEO Wilhelm Schmid was proud to share this new watch with the world after many years of development. A timepiece that pushes the boundaries of watchmaking and craftsmanship, as well as innovation and technology, this was a key moment for the brand. Here, we find out more about this key moment for the Glashütte watchmaker.

What can you share with us about the new ZEITWERK HONEYGOLD “Lumen” timepiece and how it represents the brand’s identity?

The Lumen concept developed very nicely over time because it gives even a traditional watch a very contemporary look. And for us, I think it’s a nice way of showing the movement from an angle that you usually don’t see, but at the same time, it is still protected. If you expose a movement to sunlight and the elements too much, there will be an impact on it and this is something we wanted to avoid. This is why we don’t do skeleton watches because we want to ensure our watches are protected so I think this is a nice way of doing it without having to deal with the negative implications. This is a brand new watch, it’s not just another ZEITWERK in another case or a different material. This is a completely new watch with a completely new movement from beginning to end.

Can you tell us a little about this and the process of developing this complicated movement?

There is a good reason that you don’t find these kinds of complications on the market very often. Over the last 15 years, we learnt that the control of power that you need to make large disks like these without damaging them is very difficult to achieve. We learnt a lot over the last ten years about this and that’s why eventually we started to address the topics that we could not solve in the beginning. Firstly, this watch has an extended power reserve of 72 hours so we have been able to double it. Secondly, watch collectors will know that the system of this watch is the same as the others in the collection in the way that you screw the crown, but on a large disk, it just feels so much longer. So we have a power adjustor and we also used a system so that activates not when you press the pusher, but when you release it. Because that momentum, we can define – it doesn’t matter how lightly or strongly you push it, the release momentum will always be the same.

You launched this watch on a very special date – tell us why October 24th is a special day for the brand?

The 24th of October is a very important date for us as it’s the date when we re-started the business. We were re-registered on 7th December 1990, but then there were four years of developing and producing the first four watches. Our first major launch was on 24th October 1994 and ever since then we have tried to bring out something special on this date.

Can you tell us about the choice of honey gold and why this is a key material for the brand?

Honey gold is a special material that we use only for limited edition watches. There is a very simple reason for this which I will try to explain. We know that our watches are actually used by their owners – we are not the kind of brand whose watches are locked away in a safe, living a protected life – most of our clients wear their watches on a daily basis. So eventually these watches come back to us for repairs as many clients prefer their watch to look immaculate. We can’t just polish the metal to remove scratches, because if you do that you will remove some of the material. So instead, we laser all of the dents and scratches with the same material that the watch is made from and then we polish what we have added on top. So essentially we laser on too much, then we polish it until it smoothes out evenly. By doing that you maintain the integrity of the case. This is already quite a complicated process with regular gold, but with Honey Gold, you cannot do this process in a normal environment, you have to do it in a controlled, oxygen-free environment and this adds an additional complication that is not easy to work with. So we therefore will never use honey gold on our regular watches, it is something that we keep for special edition timepieces only due to the complication of the aftercare.

It’s great to have you back in Dubai – can you share a little on what is in the pipeline for the Middle East?

I cannot recall a time when I saw Dubai as busy as this. Dubai Airport is one of the most efficient airports on the planet and to push that to its limit; it’s something that I’ve never experienced before! There is a buzz here which is amazing and a lot of things have been handled really well over the pandemic. I am looking forward to visiting Expo 2020 before I fly as well. The Dubai Mall store is one of our flagship boutiques and Dubai is a very important communication centre for us because we are seeing more and more great customers and collectors in this area and it’s a magnet for them because it is like a home from home. We don’t have a manufacturer in Dubai of course, but our boutique here in Dubai is the next best thing to Glashütte. We have people here from all over the world and that’s why it’s so important that we have consistency in our approach and to our customers and we get great compliments about that which makes me proud. Overall we behave like a family company and our values are very much family company values and I hope you and our clients can feel that. 

What was the feedback from the clients after they saw the new timepiece?

It was unbelievable. I think I will need a lot of time to answer all the emails and What’s App messages! But I’m not surprised because it is an absolutely beautiful watch. My team is busy dealing with all the requests that have come up over the last 24 hours and I am afraid that there are going to be many people who are disappointed because we have only produced 200 watches. 

How did this past year and a half affect the way you operate as a company? 

Firstly we defined what we do not want to change which is our way of watchmaking, but that opened up the willingness of the company to address change where change is necessary because the entire environment has changed. Our whole digital approach developed in a way I would have never thought it could. Not only because we adapted but also because our clients adapted and so the request for change was there. And I think the future will be formed of a hybrid. We want to stay close to our customers through physical events and meeting them in person, but at the same time, I am convinced that for many occasions we will use digital technology to connect with our clients and to stay close to and understand them. I think that’s the future. Some of our watches are already available online and this is really amazing for us. On the one hand, it is surprising but on the other hand, it’s a way of allowing us to connect to collectors who live anywhere in the world, even if they can’t always get to a store. I hope that we can create the same sort of relationship that we already have with our clients in this way because it’s not only the watch alone it’s the whole package.

How does a brand like A. Lange & Söhne continue to balance innovation while honouring its rich heritage?

I think we have the great advantage of having six different watch pillars and they all have a very defined design language. There is a very clear design laid out for each. We also realised that while we are traditional in the way that we produce our watches because they are made by hands, not by machines, the design language we use, even for the most traditional, classic designs is very modern and attractive to young people. If we talk traditional and you mean values, then yes, we have it. But if you say traditional and you mean design: I will challenge you. Because that is a perception and it may not be reality. However, we have to stay clean and precise in the way that we do it and stay true to the original DNA of each watch. You have to be compliant with any new iteration if you put it into a certain watch family.

You recently celebrated 20 years of the Lange 1 – what do you think makes a watch like this iconic?

The Lange 1 epitomises everything we stand for. It’s innovative, relevant, it’s useful, and it is so distinctive that you can recognise it from afar. And that’s why I think it will always be our best seller and why we don’t touch the original design.

How do you stay relevant for the young generations?

I always challenge this because I don’t believe that a feeling for quality, scarcity, craftsmanship, exclusivity or clear design is necessarily something that has to do with age. The question is how do we stay in touch with the younger people because they don’t communicate in the same way that the older generations did. So for me, it is a case of showcasing what we do on a stage that this younger generation is looking at to explain to them who we are. I still leave it up to them whether they like what we do or not, but if I don’t expose it, they will never see it and therefore it will never become relevant. If we expose it in the right way we will of course find that some people like what we do and some don’t, but at least we have made them aware and that’s something we have been working on over the last two years.

What is something that you would still like to achieve that you haven’t done yet?

There are so many things but I think there are three main challenges that I think will keep us busy for a while. A lot of our clients love wearing our watches because most people won’t know what brand it is. We create very expensive watches that people will admire but they will not have an immediate association with a brand and that is a real asset. But at the same time, we’ve realised that more and more people know about us. So the challenge is asking ourselves how we remain a secret, but at the same time share that secret with more of the right people.

The second challenge is that about 90 per cent of my staff work in Glashütte and most of our customers of course don’t live there. So the challenge is: how do we connect the world which is busy, vibrant, volatile and challenging, with Glashutte which is the absolute opposite? So we need to look at how we can build that bridge. And thirdly is the challenge of staying relevant for the younger generations which we already touched on.

Are there any changes overall that you have noticed in the industry since the beginning of the pandemic?

I think there are trends that obviously everyone is doing, but we tend not to follow trends. I also believe it’s time that we all meet each other again at a big watch fair so we can see what each other is doing face-to-face. This is my first international trip since March 2020 and I like to see what others are doing. As an industry, we are creating something desirable and we are all in it together so I hope to see my colleagues in person again soon. I have seen that some brands have come out of the crisis stronger than they came into it, but I also believe some have lost part of their identity. Let’s see what happens now as we are heading towards a more normal time and how that develops.

What is a message that you would send to your clients and friends in the Middle East?

I believe that our clients here have a great opportunity that hardly any other region has. The Middle East has these hubs in the form of shopping malls where you can walk around and see every brand that’s active on the planet, in one location. And I think that’s a great opportunity. I’m not aware of many areas on the globe where you have that huge presence and I would invite everyone to use that, go there, experience all the brands and see what watchmakers are doing. It’s a great chance for anyone who is interested in fine watchmaking to discover more about what brands are doing today.

ELIE SAAB has collaborated with RAK Ceramics to produce a collection of luxury kitchen and bathroom surfaces.

The debut range will be presented this week as part of Downtown Design.

As the two companies partner for the first time they bring together the finest in quality a vision of exquisite design, impeccable craftsmanship and uncompromising excellence in luxury living.

Beautiful finishes, elegant marble textures, classic and contemporary colour combinations are produced using only the finest raw materials and the latest technology.

Five collections are brought to life, encompassing: Glamour, Liquid Metal, Royal, Soft Lux and Travertinum.

Each of the collections is designed to inspire interior designers and architects to create unique, luxurious, and distinctive living environments, and this first foray into the world of ceramics will be yet another beautiful brand addition to the world of ELIE SAAB.

Elie Saab Jr, CEO of ELIE SAAB Group: “Collaborating with RAK Ceramics broadens the scope of our product offerings and extends the brand’s DNA by introducing another way of luxury living and translating the heritage of ELIE SAAB’s signature with our distinctive style combining contemporary and timeless. We are working towards offering our clients and brand’s enthusiastic a 360-degree experience of ELIE SAAB lifestyle”.

Abdallah Massaad, Group CEO, RAK Ceramics, commented “We are proud to have collaborated with Elie Saab and his team to create a truly remarkable tiles and bathroom collection which raise the bar in terms of ceramic design and manufacturing.” He continued, “RAK Ceramics and ELIE SAAB share a vision of exquisite design, impeccable craftsmanship, and uncompromising ceramics excellence, and we look forward to creating more products in the future.”

The ELIE SAAB Bathroom and Surface Collections are available exclusively through RAK Ceramics.

For more information, visit www.eliesaab.rakceramics.com

From 15^th November 2021 Balenciaga will launch the Hacker Project series, a collection of products that reinterprets Gucci’s iconic codes.

Not a partnership but instead coined a “hack” this unique project first saw a collection of cross-branded looks that bring together the DNA of Balenciaga and Gucci.

The Hacker Project will launch with a series of Balenciaga pop-up and pop-in stores covering 74 physical spaces around the world.

The pop-up stores will include special activations and exclusives that transform the area, as well as featuring ready-to-wear pieces, bags, accessories and cases.

Some of Balenciaga’s signature architectural elements such as logo-shaved carpet, velvet stage curtains, and weathered metal will be reimagined for the launch, while carpets and curtains are etched with a classic Gucci all-over print, but with double-Bs subbed in for double-Gs.

Aluminium displays are stained with acid to mimic scrubbed graffiti. Store windows are tagged in the graffiti style with “GUCCI.”

See the collection globally in stores and pop-up boutiques from November 15^th 2021.

Since creating her brand Akillis in 2007 Caroline Gaspard has always gone against the rules. Her unconventional jewellery design and bold choice of stones have led to Akillis redefining the concept of modern jewellery.

Combining the finest materials with French know-how and out-of-the-box innovative techniques, Gaspard has created a line of instantly recognisable jewellery pieces. Many of her designs are unisex and can be worn in several ways for many occasions, making them versatile as well as unique. An adventurer at heart, Caroline’s unisex designs are both daring and unconventional. She takes inspiration from unexpected objects around her and turns them into beautiful, elegant jewels.

The brand’s latest collection “Tattoo” continues Gaspard’s exploration into unusual sources of inspiration with pieces mirroring the image of a tattoo on the skin. The collection is a tribute to the tattoo artistry of the Maori culture who traditionally defined themselves with symbolic tattoos on their skin. The collection features second-skin pieces that make a bold statement. Here, we meet with Caroline Gaspard to discover more about the latest collection and the plans for Akillis in the Middle East.

What has been happening in the world of Akillis over the past year?

We took advantage of the lockdown period to fine-tune and launch our new website and e-commerce platform in May 2021. We also continued to work on the expansion of our iconic collection Capture, with the launch of a thinner version called Capture Light. And we introduced new styles to our famous Bang Bang collections. On the business side, we worked towards increasing our distribution in the Middle East, with the opening of a “shop in shop” in Dubai Mall later this month, and two new openings in Doha and Kuwait in a few weeks time.

Can you tell us a little about the new Tattoo collection and why you decided to introduce this collection to your offering?

With the Tattoo collection, I intended to create an outstanding collection. It began with an idea aimed at the younger generations who are looking for something that truly speaks to them. To enhance your personality, what could be more natural than a tattoo? A jewellery tattoo touching the body, fashioned like lace to reveal the skin through sparkling strokes of calligraphy.

We know you are very daring in your designs – what inspires you the most and where do you get the ideas for your jewellery pieces?

I love to get inspiration from everyday life experiences. The people I meet, the trips I go on, different cultures, landscapes, atmospheres and feelings. I can also be inspired by the shape of a stone. From these initial inspirations, I then introduce the Akillis rock spirit.

What is it about the Maori culture that interested you?

During my travels to Polynesia, I was captivated by the Maori culture and the heroism of the warriors. They distinctly called to mind the great Greek warrior Achilles; the brand’s namesake for nearly 15 years. I enjoyed playing with the graphic style of the tattoos where the sharp lines comprised of themes like harpoons and shark teeth, tempered by the soothing roundness of waves. Together, they are Ying and Yang, peace and peril, a duality that lies at the heart of the brand.

What do you think women are looking for from jewellery today?

Women today are confident, and dare to show their true personalities. They can be fashionistas, mothers and businesswomen all at the same time and they want jewels that express this dichotomy in their personality.

Can you tell us a little about the choice of stones and colours used in your collections and what is your favourite stone to work with?

When I first saw Paraiba Tourmalines, I fell in love with them. I really believe that stones have powers. Tourmalines have energising properties that bring a sense of peace and well-being. It’s instantaneous – as soon as I see and touch these stones I feel positive vibes.

Tell us about your creative process and when do you get most inspired?

Each step of the process is very important and exciting for me: from the moment of inspiration, where an idea starts germinating, to delving into the execution of building the pieces and seeing how my vision comes to life. The whole process is inspirational and filled with learning.

After a difficult 18 months – how do you think women are looking to the world of jewellery and what do you think women want from jewellery today?

I believe jewellery and high jewellery should be worn every day. I am not a fan of jewels that are left in a safe and worn only for special occasions. Women especially, the new generation, are really into mixing jewellery pieces with casual clothing. It allows them to convey a message and assert themselves.

What in your words, makes Akillis unique?

My goal in founding Akillis was to create a resolutely modern and disruptive jewellery brand. I love the notion of unisex jewellery: partners should be able to share their favourite pieces. I wanted to bring jewellery into a new age, an age in which the French jewellery tradition would embrace ultra-modern design while pushing back technical limits as far as they can go.

How important is sustainability at Akillis and what steps have you taken so far in this field?

Of course, we pay extreme attention to the materials we use. Our diamonds are guaranteed by the Kimberley Process for example. We are also on the verge of completing our RJC certification that will attest to our complete responsible attitude to both sourcing and manufacturing.

Can you tell us a little about Akillis in the Middle East and when can we expect to see you back here?

The Middle East has always been a market of interest for the brand. In fact, the second largest sector of clientele at our Parisian flagship store are Middle Eastern customers from Dubai and Saudi Arabia. Akillis has been rapidly growing in the region over the last three years and it is the second region in terms of sales volume after Europe. We are now dealing with some of the biggest companies from the GCC who are selling our collections in the UAE, Bahrain, Qatar, and very soon Kuwait and Saudi Arabia. We had our first high jewellery event in the region last April in Dubai, which highlights our investment and focus on this region. I am planning to come back by the end of November to attend an event where Akillis is nominated in seven categories.

What else is in the pipeline for the rest of the year?

We recently launched a capsule collection in collaboration with Jitrois. Jean-Claude Jitrois and I cultivated our common ideas of paradox and proposed a partnership to create a collection of opposites. The iconic styles of the Jitrois house have changed their look where elegance is seen from a new angle: Ethno-Rock. We are also working on new collections which will hopefully be ready by the end of this year. These projects are still under consideration but will remain faithful to the spirit of the brand and its aesthetics.

What are the personal and professional mottos that you live by?

My main motto is to go beyond my dreams and always dream bigger as everything is possible in life if you work for it.

What is something you would like to achieve that you haven’t done yet?

We are working to increase the brand awareness of Akillis, and are keen to gain the same recognition in the Middle East, as we have in France.

What is a message you would like to send to your customers and friends in the Middle East?

Thank you for your support and love for Akillis. Please continue to express your own personality through our jewellery. Akillis has a lot more coming up for you. Stay tuned!

As Expo 2020 Dubai completes its first month, we discover some of the luxury brands showcasing their latest designs and activations on this global platform. 

Cartier

The Women’s Pavilion in Collaboration With Cartier is a platform dedicated to celebrating the talents and successes achieved by women all around the world. With the tagline “when women thrive, humanity thrives”, an exhibition titled New Perspectives aims to recognise and celebrate the central role women have played throughout history. The impressive Pavilion offers a journey through time and around the globe, highlighting some of the most notable moments in which women have paved the way for future generations and shown their strength and capabilities. Opening with a movie by Lebanese Oscar-nominated Film Director Nadine Labaki, guests are then invited to discover some of the biggest achievements by women throughout history. The Achievements room shines a light on women’s positive impact on the world and educates them on the incredible capabilities of women from all walks of life. The Challenges room looks at some of the sadly realistic factors that are still holding women back today and addresses some of the ways we can work towards eradicating these restrictions. Then, as guests are invited to head upstairs they will find an immersive exhibition curated by French actress, screenwriter and director, Mélanie Laurent. This journey showcases the stories of women from all around the world as they navigate through their personal experiences. The second section invites visitors to discover a virtual reality film, showcasing stories of women, known and unknown as they face the world. A second smaller exhibition section houses rotating exhibitions curated by various Emirati artists.

The final area; the Majlis will open up the stage to successful women over the course of the coming six months. This space will play host to women (and men) to engage in constructive and solution-oriented conversations on women’s empowerment. These conversations will be hosted throughout the coming six months with over 150 sessions in total taking place until the end of March 2022. The Pavilion will open conversations around women’s equality, gender balance, women in Arabia, business and innovation, arts and culture and so much more. Registration is available for many of the events with both in-person and remote attendance via Zoom on offer.

Bulgari

At the Italian Pavilion, Bulgari will be hosting several initiatives. For the entire duration of Expo 2020 Dubai, the Italian Pavilion’s restaurant will be managed by Il Ristorante – Niko Romito of Bulgari Resort Dubai. Visitors will get the chance to taste great Italian classics from the restaurant’s iconic menu interpreted by Michelin-starred Chef Romito in a contemporary way. Taking inspiration from the dining venue at Bulgari Resort Dubai, the space is designed with a purely Italian style, giving visitors a taste of Rome. Throughout November and December, a menu will be designed around the key ingredient of truffle with a selection of delicious dishes on offer throughout the day. 

Simone Lingua

The brand also has a cultural exhibition within the central section of the Pavilion featuring a fascinating mix of jewellery and contemporary art by artist Simone Lingua. The Sotiria installation — named in tribute to Sotirio Bulgari, the company’s founder — extends over 150 square metres. As a tribute to Bulgari, the artist has chosen to identify the concept of beauty with the most brilliant of precious stones: the diamond. Composed of seven suspended “necklaces”, the work evokes the gems’ perfection through 63 blown glass icosahedra, ablaze with infinite brilliance thanks to a prism of internal light. Each “diamond” is placed inside a chromed dome, which multiplies its reflections. A spy mirror is interposed between the diamond and the viewer, conceived to disappear and become transparent once backlit.

In celebration of the UAE’s Year of the 50th creations from Bulgari’s Jannah collection will also be exhibited at the Pavilion as part of special patronage projects. Launched in 2020, Jannah celebrates the shared values ​​and rich common heritage between Rome and Abu Dhabi and is the first-ever collaboration between the Italian jewellery Maison and a member of the royal family of the United Arab Emirates, Princess Fatima Bint Hazza Bin Zayed Al Nahyan. There will also be a number of workshops and activations held over the six months, celebrating arts and culture and highlighting Italian craftsmanship.

Dolce&Gabbana

Dolce&Gabbana is celebrating Italian excellence also at the Italian Pavilion. Under the Pavilion’s theme, “Beauty Connects People” Dolce&Gabbana has designed and created a special installation that celebrates Italian artistic heritage while offering a unique experience to the visitors of the Pavilion. An architectural structure with baroque forms, typical of the architecture of the eighteenth-century gardens of Southern Italy and reflective of Dolce&Gabbana’s brand identity is located close to the flourishing botanical garden of the Pavilion, interacting with its colours and inviting guests to relax in their beautiful surroundings. The structure is covered with 1200 finely crafted and hand-painted majolica tiles by Sicilian master potters with floral interweaving, bougainvillaea fronds, citrus fruits and bucolic landscapes. Following the tradition of craftsmanship, which draws its tools from nature to create true works of art, each tile is made from a mixture of clay and Sicilian lava stone powder and decorated with natural colours obtained from mineral oxides.

The space celebrates the concept of Made in Italy and the importance of sustaining traditional crafts, something with is of huge importance to the Italian brand. The installation aims to be a symbol and testimony of the skills of Italian art masters in all their fields of action. They are a priceless intangible heritage, repositories of knowledge and skills that risk being lost forever, in a distracted and superficial age, if not enhanced, encouraged and communicated to the new generation. The brand has also created uniforms for 60 students who are volunteering around the Italian Pavilion throughout the duration of the event.

Rami Al Ali

Dubai-based designer Rami Al Ali has partnered with architect Carmelo Zappulla for Expo 2020 Dubai’s Design and Crafts Programme MENASA, to share a joint story through an exclusive window display. Zappulla, founder and executive director of the award-winning international studio External Reference, specializes in urban design, architectural and interior design, and exhibition design. This project sees the architect creating a new installation in collaboration with the designer. Al Ali used his penchant towards craftsmanship to create intricate hand embroidery that covers the tips of Zappulla’s 3D Installation with the use of organic shapes. Al Ali’s work aims to create a visual journey that emphasizes the evolution of crafts in the region while modernising it to appeal to today’s generation.

Al Ali uses his work with Zappulla to provoke a new perspective while highlighting the breadth and vibrancy of the country’s contemporary design scene. Bridging the gap between past and present to honour the creative culture of the region. The embroidery on the installation is a juxtaposition of traditional UAE crafts, incorporating materials such as natural fibres from palm frond used for weaving, Talli (traditionally used for embroidery), Sadu (a form of Bedouin weaving), and cotton fishing nets. Embracing the natural colour palette of each raw material, the designer creates a collage of shapes. Each element is abstracted to take on a new form – branches, flowers and petals are constructed to reflect elements of the designer’s couture line. Every aspect of embroidery is constructed by hand to deliver a high couture standard. The installation took a total of 375 hours to create and used 1520 meters of material to execute it. The exhibition along with a series of commemorative hand-crafted boxes produced by Al Ali are available to see and purchase at the MENASA Boutique located at the Rove Hotel at Expo 2020 Dubai. 

Lacoste

As the official partner of the France Pavilion Lacoste is offering an immersive experience in a space that features the brand’s iconic codes as well as the Made In France collections within an exclusive pop-up boutique. A made in France polo shirt which has been specially designed for the event is exclusively available in the pop-up store, inviting visitors to come and discover the best in French savoir-faire. The staff of the France Pavilion are also dressed by Lacoste in specially created uniforms. To support Lacoste’s presence at the Dubai World Expo, the brand’s eight stores located in the United Arab Emirates, have adopted the codes of the World Expo pop-up store reflecting the DNA of the brand and celebrating its heritage.

Expo 2020 Dubai has given the French brand a chance to showcase its heritage and its unique know-how. Created by tennis icon René Lacoste in 1933, the brand has stayed through to its French roots for almost a century. René Lacoste established his workshops in Troyes, French knitwear capital, to design the first iconic polo shirts in piqué cotton. Since then, the company has continued to produce in these same workshops and employs more than 2,200 people in France, from design and production to operations and distribution. At Lacoste, they contribute to promoting French know-how internationally.

Kiehl’s

Skincare brand Kiehl’s has opened its Expo 2020 Dubai boutique to visitors offering the latest products as well as some expo limited edition exclusive products. Located in the Jubilee Park District, the pop-up boutique is an ode to sustainability, innovation, and service; a true celebration of the Expo 2020 Dubai values. Customers will be able to enjoy and shop a limited-edition “Kiehl’s Loves Dubai” Expo 2020 Dubai collection, have access to exclusive launches available only at the Expo boutique, and experience the core values of Kiehl’s in exciting new ways.

“Kiehl’s has a longstanding heritage of supporting our environment and the local communities in which we serve.” Said Chahine Khadiga, General Manager L’Oréal Luxe, GCC & Levant. “Together with Expo, we are proud and humbled to showcase both our Local and International initiatives; whether its supporting children with our long-term partnership with Al Jalila Foundation for Children, our recycle and be rewarded worldwide & local operations, our new refillable formats, our 100% recyclable furniture in our stores and most recently our partnership with Emirates Nature – WWF”.

In a partnership with Qatar Museums, Dior brings its Christian Dior: Designer of Dreams Exhibition to the Middle East for the First time.

Now open at the M7 Creative Hub in Msheired, Downtown Doha the global exhibition showcases a selection of archival looks from throughout the House’s history.

Furthermore, in a first for the region, the showcase also features ensembles bellowing to the private collection of Her Highness Sheikha Moza bint Nasser, a long-standing client of Christian Dior Couture.

©Nelson Garrido

To the rhythm of a new scenographic narrative designed by Nathalie Crinière, the exhibition, specially conceived for Qatar and curated by Olivier Gabet celebrates nearly seventy-five years of creative passion, punctuated by captivating haute couture dresses and works from the collection of the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris.

©Nelson Garrido

“The exhibition Christian Dior Designer of Dreams has captivated audiences around the globe with its stunning design and breathtaking fashion creations. Qatar Museums is pleased to present a special presentation of the exhibition in Doha, in collaboration with Dior and the Musée des Arts Décoratifs. Qatar Museums gives special thanks to Place Vendôme for their generous support as the presenting sponsor of the exhibition,” said Her Excellency Sheikha Al Mayassa bint Hamad bin Khalifa Al Thani, Chairperson, Qatar Museums.

©Nelson Garrido

“Christian Dior was a true visionary,” Her Excellency Sheikha Al Mayassa continued, “so it is especially meaningful to us that Designer of Dreams is the first major exhibition to open at Qatar Museums’ M7, a creative hub that supports Qatar’s burgeoning fashion and design industries. This inspiring space provides a platform for local talent and supports aspiring and established creative entrepreneurs in Qatar to realise their ambitions.”

The exhibition’s design evokes the iconic 30 Avenue Montaigne; the home of the House in Paris inviting guests to enter and discover creations by each of Christian Dior’s successors: Yves Saint Laurent, Marc Bohan, Gianfranco Ferré, John Galliano, Raf Simons and Maria Grazia Chiuri. Christian Dior’s iconic Bar jacket is also on display, a piece that featured in his first collection in 1947.

©Nelson Garrido

Moving through the exhibition the toile room is a tribute to the savoir-faire of Dior’s ateliers and promotes the excellence of the petites mains.

The beauty of world cultures is showcased in the Dior Around the World section reflecting cultural references for each country represented, for example, Middle Eastern-inspired stained-glass windows by Philippe-Joseph Brocard.

©Nelson Garrido

In the heart of a garden recalling Monsieur Dior’s love of flowers, looks are enhanced by delicate embellishments or poetic prints, presented alongside embroidery by Rébé and precious botanical works dating from the 15th to the 19th centuries.

Continuing this journey, the J’adore fragrance universe is exalted by a cascade of golden raindrops composed of 3,000 perfume bottles in a creation by the artist Liu Jianhua.

The Diorama window, revisited in pastel shades, dialogues with an installation specially created for this exhibition by the artist Joël Andrianomearisoa, entitled Les Saisons Imaginaires and made from a thousand upcycled Dior silk scarves.

Reflecting Christian Dior’s fascination with art, more than fifty Lady Dior handbags have been reinterpreted for the Dior Lady Art project, granting painters, sculptors, and designers carte blanche to transform this emblem according to their artistic vision – an accessory that owes its iconic status to its extraordinary ambassador, Lady Diana.

©Nelson Garrido

Visitors can also admire one of the Princess of Wales’ outfits, alongside looks that have been worn by celebrities including Charlize Theron and Jennifer Lawrence.

In the final gallery, guests will discover an enchanting encounter between virtuoso evening gowns and a series of haute couture ensembles belonging to Her Highness Sheikha Moza bint Nasser.

The exhibition is part of the ongoing cultural legacy established as part of the Qatar-France 2020 Year of Culture, an initiative celebrating the longstanding ties between both nations.

As part of his Fall/Winter 2021 collection for Givenchy, Creative Director Matthew M. Williams introduced key new accessories for men and women that offer a bold contemporary look, while perfectly embracing the House’s DNA

4G Handbag

With its architectural lines and distinctive look, the new 4G Handbag perfectly embodies William’s new codes for the house of Givenchy. With its sharp symmetrical lines and a bold attitude this bag which first debuted in the Pre-Fall 2021 collection, present the perfect design codes that Hubert de Givenchy made synonymous with the brand, paired with William’s contemporary vision for the house. To achieve a sleek, graphic shape, Williams worked with Givenchy’s expert craftsmen to select the finest, full-grain box calfskins. Its leatherwork offers the finest in savoir-faire with sleek attention to detail.

The bag’s clasps are designed using a highly technical process with carefully selected hardware materials. The bag comes in two styles; a flap bag and a chain bag. The 4G flap bag comes with an elegant removable strap that can be adjusted by its metal brackets to be worn on the shoulder or across the body. The 4G Chain bag features the house’s new custom-made G-link chain in silver or gold which can be adapted as desired. Each back features an interior with several pockets in various sizes. The 4G bag is available in a number of colours including black and ivory as well as seasonal shades including avocado green, baby pink, red and dark khaki. Special finishes include an all-over 4G monogram effect, achieved through high-frequency debossing on leather for a 3D effect. A design in snake-printed lambskin creates a highly realistic impression of exotic leather; while a version in dark emerald green python with gold hardware is also available.

Cut-Out Bag

The futuristic Cut-Out bag has been introduced in new versions for the Fall/Winter 2021 season. The distinctive V-shaped accessory is now available in padded, grooved lambskin, inspired by vintage car seats. This unique treatment is achieved using an intricate process of high-frequency wave techniques to bring a new attitude to the bag. It also features the new silver-finish G-Cube chain; an emblematic hardware signature developed by Matthew M. Williams for Givenchy.

For the first time, a longer cross-body G-Cube chain is also presented in order to enhance the versatility and wearability of the bag, according to each woman’s preference. The Cut-Out in padded leather is available in mini and small sizes, in padded matte lambskin (black) or patent leather (lilac). It is also available in smooth box leather with a subtle glossy sheen, in black and chestnut.

Givenchy Venture

For men, the Givenchy Venture is a new highly adaptable accessory that offers both style and versatility. Two backpacks and belt bags can be worn according to each individual’s taste and needs. The backpacks can be worn on the front or back of the body, while the belt bag doubles up as a cross-body piece. Inspired by a professional runner’s backpack this piece is fitted with a hardness and zip-off pouch that can be replaced by the larger belt bag.

They have also been designed in a way that makes it possible to add other item’s such as Givenchy’s new water bottle, as well as securing other essentials like a blanket when needed. This new set is available in black nylon as well as a number of modern versions that can be used to create a mix-and-match look. The belt bag comes in nylon or croc-embossed leather.

The winners of this year’s Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève awards were unveiled this weekend, celebrating the finest in watchmaking from around the world.

This year’s event marks the 20th anniversary of the concept which recognises contemporary watchmaking excellence and creativity with 19 awards handed out to those who have excelled in various categories over the past year.

The ultimate ‘best in show’ distinction, the “Aiguille d’Or” Grand Prix, was awarded to Bulgari for the Octo Finissimo watch, while other brands including Audemars Piguet, Chopard, Louis Vuitton, Van Cleef & Arpels and Zenith also scooped some of the top awards.

Dubai Watch Week was awarded the Special Jury Prize for its commitment to watchmaking in the Middle East.

The 2021 nominated watches, including the 18 award winning watches, are on display at the Musée Rath in Geneva until November 14, 2021 as well as the 20 watches that won the “Aiguille d’Or” Grand Prix between 2001 and 2020.

The 2021 award-winning watches will subsequently be presented during Dubai Watch Week, from November 24 to 28, and then in Paris from December 2 to 5.

Octo Finissimo, winning watch of the “Aiguille d’Or” Grand Prix 2021

See the full list of winners below:

“Aiguille d’Or” Grand Prix: Bulgari, Octo Finissimo
Ladies’ Watch Prize: Piaget, Limelight Gala Precious Rainbow
Ladies’ Complication Watch Prize: Van Cleef & Arpels, Lady Féerie Watch
Men’s Watch Prize: Grand Seiko, Hi-Beat 36000 80 Hours Caliber 9SA5
Men’s Complication Watch Prize: MB&F, LMX Titanium
Iconic Watch Prize: Audemars Piguet, Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin
Tourbillon Watch Prize: De Bethune, DB Kind of Two Tourbillon
Calendar and Astronomy Watch Prize: Christiaan Van Der Klaauw, CVDK Planetarium Eise Eisinga
Mechanical Exception Watch Prize: Piaget, Altiplano Ultimate Automatic
Chronograph Watch Prize: Zenith, Chronomaster Sport
Diver’s Watch Prize: Louis Vuitton, Tambour Street Diver Skyline Blue
Jewellery Watch Prize: Chopard, Flower Power
Artistic Crafts Watch Prize: MB&F, LM SE Eddy Jaquet ‘Around the World in Eighty Days’
“Petite Aiguille” Prize: Tudor, Black Bay Ceramic
Challenge Watch Prize: CIGA Design, Blue Planet
Innovation Prize: Bernhard Lederer, Central Impulse Chronometer
Audacity Prize: Louis Vuitton, Tambour Carpe Diem
Horological Revelation Prize: Furlan Marri, MR. Grey Ref. 1041-A
Special Jury Prize: Dubai Watch Week

Pierre Hardy, Creative Director of Hermès Jewellery discusses House’s latest high jewellery collection.

With a vision of recreating the human caress on the skin, Hermès Creative Director of Jewellery Pierre Hardy presented a delicate and modern collection that seamlessly flows and moves with the body as it glides through the air.

The Lignes Sensibles collection features graphic lines and elegant geometric shapes, offering a modern approach to high jewellery. This free-spirited collection clings to the body as though it’s a second skin, moving with grace and elegance. Consisting of necklaces, bracelets and brooches the collection embraces light which is captured through the unique composition of the pieces. Gemstones and metals merge with the skin, offering a sparkling appearance. Unusual hand jewellery is a highlight of the collection with cleverly designed pieces that resemble gloves. Softness shimmers in flowing lines, creating an impression of sparkling skin. Giving form to the invisible, a discreet dream is brought to life by emotion. Here we discover more about this special collection with Pierre Hardy, Creative Director of Hermès Jewellery.

This collection is driven by patterns inspired by circuits, grids and lines. Are you offering a pathway through life? 

I was inspired by objects that are used to listen to the body, such as the stethoscope, which allows you to hear sounds and vibrations that are otherwise imperceptible to the ear. I wanted to transcribe these interior areas, to sketch their design on the skin. I see these lines as radiating out from them. I like the idea that you can choose a different anatomy, reinvent an intimate sensory system, like a wave that is made visible and given form by jewellery.

Your work gives off an interior rhythm connected to the cadence of proportions, to alternating positive and negative spaces, tell us about this approach…

The entire collection is oriented towards intimacy. I have tried to mark the passage between the interior and the exterior: the pieces of jewellery that I create are like small organs that emit sounds. They are subtle pulsations that form a connection with the invisible. Often, with jewellery, “sound mingles with light”, to quote Baudelaire. But this collection is quite silent, the pieces are discreet, both in weight and dimensions.

The softness that characterises the collection is also found in its colours – what can you tell us about the choice of colours and stones? 

I wanted to use a range of gemstones in colours that are close to the tones of skin. I looked for flesh colours, shades specific to the complexion, the lips, or the iris. I looked for cloudy, milky materials to become one with the skin. In my previous collections, the link with the body was achieved through metaphors, such as the chain. Here it is direct: the jewellery is closer than ever to the body itself. The pieces fit closely around the finger, around the neck, around the wrist. I wanted to return to this symbiosis: to be at one with the skin.

Your designs also showcase light… 

In paintings, I like details of tears, droplets and pearls on which light reverberates. In the same way, pieces of jewellery are accents that catch the light and reflect it. They are like chakras, the body’s energy points defined in ancient India. In my own way, and without any form of mysticism, I have sought to reinvent these sensitive areas that the light glides over, producing impressions of beauty.

Is there a sensual alchemy at work in the bejewelled lattices that make up your jewellery? 

I was thinking of the effervescence of certain emotions, of the abandonment to pleasure. The pieces sit in places that are connected to desire, creating an eroticism that inevitably reinterprets the body. I had a very gentle movement in mind, and if there is alchemy, then it lies in the power that the pieces have to transform the skin on which they lie into a more radiant material.

Were you thinking of movement within your collection? 

Yes, in my mind the material is constantly changing, and the collection follows this progression: it goes from the most tangible to the most immaterial. My combined passion for anatomy and dance led me firstly to consider bones: the wrists, and the beauty of bone structure. That then brought me to the idea of a circuit, droplets and expression – to the limits of the body.

Your hand jewellery is highly original. Does it draw on a specific imaginary world? 

Working produces some unexpected images. There is a universality of forms that escapes me. Above all, I am passionate about inventing new forms of flexibility that allow the hand to remain free and the fingers to bend. I have sought to create a system of veins, like a flow of water trickling through fingers. I would love jewellery to be alive.

The Contre la Peau necklace is a universe in itself – can you tell us a little about the creation of this piece?

Unusually, I didn’t do a sketch for this piece. Instead, I had a strong intuition for a fluid and flexible texture that would envelop the neck like a caress. By working with meshing, we sought to create a fabric in metal. And we discovered that we had created the microscopic structure of skin, with its triangular micro-wrinkles. We had made skin, in metal, gold and diamonds. I think we got close to an absolute because there was no predetermined form, it just happened by feeling, the sense of a second skin.

Even the rings seem to be inhabited by a sense of tenderness?

The whole collection resembles a caress. The necklaces are as soft as arms around the neck. I wanted the rings, too, to be at one with the body, and not simply a gemstone placed on a finger. I sought osmosis with the hand.

Can you tell us about the geometry in the pieces?

Geometry is inherent in all of us, art merely reveals it. I love that the body holds so much symmetry; it is a wealth of mechanisms and articulations. The jewellery that I create attempts to bring to the surface these inherent facets of the human body, and to exalt them.

Hélène Poulit-Duquesne, CEO of Boucheron discusses the new high jewellery collection and the plans for the jewellery house in the Middle East.

As one of the oldest jewellery brands in the world, Boucheron has a rich heritage and an impressive catalogue of some of the most forward-thinking jewellery pieces ever to be made. Since the beginning, the jewellery house has been dedicated to innovation and continuing to constantly push the boundaries of creation. Under the guidance of CEO Hélène Poulit-Duquesne, the brand’s Creative Director Claire Choisne, continues to find new, out-of-the-box ways to create high jewellery pieces while at the same time having a strong dedication to sustainability and transparency for its clients.

With the Middle East as a key region for the brand, Boucheron is planning to roll out its new boutique concept over the coming months, starting with the new Al Faisaliah store which recently opened in Riyadh. This, along with the recent La Maison exhibition which also took place in the city, is strengthening the brand’s presence in Saudi Arabia, as well as the Middle East as a whole. As Boucheron launches its latest high jewellery collection Holographique, we meet CEO Hélène Poulit-Duquesne to discuss the latest pieces and the plans for the jeweller in the region.

Hélène Poulit-Duquesne

We recently visited the La Maison exhibition in Riyadh how was this received and what can you tell us about Boucheron in the Middle East?

We have been working on increasing our visibility in Saudi Arabia as it is a country that is key in the region and key for Boucheron. As you know, we just opened the Al Faisaliah boutique which features the new Boucheron store concept and it is the first boutique with this concept in the region. And then, of course, we had this beautiful exhibition. We recently decided that it was the right time to have a reset on who we are. We wanted to reignite the storytelling behind the brand as we have moved forward quite a lot in the last five years and I think that our clients in KSA were really happy to have this event happening in their country. And we were super happy to have it taking place in Riyadh.

We loved seeing the heritage pieces on display and we realised how they are still so relevant today…

Yes, that is very true and this is why it is so interesting for Claire Choisne to reinvent them when she is working on the high jewellery collections. The purpose of our collections is to use our history to inspire new pieces and we have come to realise that a lot of our archival pieces are super relevant today. It’s nice for our clients to see part of our past because we were quite surprised that especially in Riyadh, even though the brand is very well known, it’s not as well-known as other French high jewellery brands. People tend to forget that we were the first jeweller to have a boutique at Place Vendôme in Paris and there is a long history behind us. I have been in the industry for many years so I am familiar with the history surrounding the brands and at the end of the 19th century, there were only two key jewellers: Cartier and Boucheron. So it’s nice to tell clients our story because they don’t always know the incredible history that we have. When clients come to Place Vendôme and see our flagship boutique that’s when they truly understand our history. Since the recent renovation, we have a full library where all of our books are on display and you can understand how rich and incredible our heritage is. I think it’s a given today that customers what to understand and experience the history and also the craftsmanship and know-how of what we do.

Tell us a little more about the new store concept and the image that you are starting to roll out across the world?

All of the stores in the Middle East have always had a super-elegant design, the history of this concept came from a classic, typical French hotel. I think the brief was good, but the way it was executed was quite cold. Everything was very white and in my opinion, too clinical. Something that’s very important to our company that comes from its history is that we want to be a human company. Frédéric Boucheron, the founder of the brand was a warm, incredibly friendly person and I couldn’t feel this warmth in the previous boutique concept. I wanted our clients to be welcomed like friends so that they feel at home when they come to our boutiques and that’s what I believe we have achieved with the new design. We worked with three different architects, one for the Place Vendôme store and two young talented architects for the international concept. The brief was the same and the young architects took inspiration from the renovated Place Vendôme boutique and exported this same idea to our stores around the world. There are key aspects of the new concept including the green marble and the white stone which are typical of French architecture, and even in the way we accommodate the clients is very unconventional. All of the architects suggested that we have a round table, which is something that you do not find in any traditional jewellery concepts. Historically, all tables within jewellers were rectangular because they were originally used to trade and deal stones. So it was important for people to be face to face when they were doing these deals. And this is something that has stayed in the industry ever since and that’s why in most high jewellery boutiques you see these kinds of desks. But I don’t want our friends and clients to feel like they are in a trading company, I want them to feel like they are part of a family and when you sit at a round table, you immediately feel at home. I like to invite our clients to come into the boutique for a cup of coffee and a chat and have the chance to experience the friendly environment.

Secondly, I didn’t want every boutique around the world to be the same. I have travelled all over the world and in many cases, you see the same concept in every destination and you could be anywhere in the world. We wanted to avoid this and to ensure that every boutique is different. So all of the VIP areas are different and it’s been very fun and creative for us. We decided to buy antique pieces and to have them in every store around the world so each one is unique.

Can you tell us a little about the new Holographique high jewellery collection – the vision behind it some of the highlights and what this collection means to the brand? 

Claire Choisne, Creative Director at Boucheron loves to work with very pure colours – white, black etc. – but with this collection, I wanted to push her out of her comfort zone to experiment with colours. What I love about the way Claire works is that she doesn’t do anything in a traditional way. The classic way of working with colours on high jewellery would have been to select green emeralds or red rubies, or blue sapphires as many brands are doing. But Claire decided to work with light; because light includes all colours of the spectrum. She didn’t want to select specific colours but instead, she wanted to have all of them incorporated in some way. She found two ways to create a holographic effect like what you see in nature, in rainbows etc. The first is by using the opal stone as it intrinsically integrates all the different colours. It’s a stone that we love at Boucheron and you will see that there are many opals in this collection and they create a super interesting holographic effect. And then secondly, the team worked to find a technical solution to get a similar effect on the high jewellery pieces, especially on the rock crystal. It’s a very interesting way of doing things but myself and Claire have exactly the same way of thinking. We love to put a twist on the norm, to do things in a non-conventional way and try to find out-of-the-box solutions. 

In your opinion, what are some of the highlight pieces from the collection? 

The first most impressive piece would be the betta fish set, because of the incredible stone. Before the lockdown, in February 2020 I went on a trip with Claire looking for stones and we found this magnificent opal. Then the second piece would be the Holographique rock crystal set because this was the first set that has been designed by the team. What I love about this design is that in the last five years moved jumped from the traditional way of doing things in high jewellery to designing pieces without any drawings. Claire and her team designed the Holographique set by cutting slices of plastic to create a mock-up and I have been looking at that mock-up for two years. Every time I saw it made from plastic I have been wondering when they would make it for real, and so to see it finished now is really amazing and I love it. 

How does Boucheron continue to push the boundaries in innovation and balance this with traditional craftsmanship and honouring the heritage of the brand? 

Our founder Frédéric Boucheron was very innovative from the beginning. So when it comes to respecting the past, innovation is part of our DNA, so we feel that we have a duty to continue to innovate. We don’t want to be a brand that is stuck in the past because if we are just replicating what was done by Frédéric Boucheron there is no progress to the brand. So we feel that we still have to innovate and look at new techniques and we always want to feel that our founder would be proud of us. In fact, I am very close to Alain Boucheron who is a fourth-generation member of the Boucheron family. When I joined the company I wanted to meet him so I could get to know more about the brand from its family. Alain had been running the company for years so I met him and we became quite close. I show him pretty much everything we are working on and he is a great fan of what we’re doing. When we presented him with this high jewellery collection he said “Frederic would have been proud of you”. And this is precisely what we are trying to achieve. We want to innovate not just so we are innovative, but to ensure the progression of the brand and to push the boundaries of high jewellery. We are working in a very traditional industry and we want that industry to move forward and for us to be an example to others. Because we want to progress doesn’t mean that we want to destroy the past – it’s actually the opposite – we dive into the past to have the brand progressing on a creative level. The second very important thing is that while we love to innovate, it is never just for the sake of it. We are not a tech company. We innovate to sustain poetry, emotions and the dream and vision of Claire. So if we want something from a piece and we don’t need any innovation, we don’t do it. When we use unusual materials and techniques it is usually related to sustaining the dream. 

Can you give us any insights into what we can expect coming up in the Middle East from the brand?

In the Middle East we have many different partners and the top priority today is to convince them all to renovate our boutiques. It’s a region that is extremely important for Boucheron, and it’s probably the region in the world where our clients understand the brand the best and I’m very proud of that, as it’s not the case everywhere in the world. But I do feel a little sad because while the brand is well understood and our sales in the region are tremendous, we want to accommodate our clients in our new concept. So the top priority is to renovate the network of stores in the coming years. 

What can you tell us about sustainability at Boucheron?

We’ve been working very hard on that subject for the last five years and it is a very high priority subject at Boucheron. Last year we appointed our Chief of Staff to handle the responsibility of sustainability within the organisation and I made it a priority at the President’s level. I want everyone in the company to be involved in the subject overall. For jewellers, the main aspect of sustainability that we can try to control is the raw materials as this is 90 per cent of the impact that we have on the environment. Five years ago we set a goal to achieve 100 per cent of sustainable gold in our products and we have now achieved that. And we are working on the sustainability of stones which of course is very important but it is a little more complicated than with gold. There are two different aspects related to stones. The first is diamonds and the second is coloured stones. When it comes to diamonds the industry has been moving quickly over the past few years and I think now there is an understanding that we have no choice but to ensure the traceability of diamonds. It’s becoming a given and I think within the next ten years all brands will be working with traceable diamonds. We started to work on this last year and we now have eleven diamonds in our Place Vendôme boutique that are fully traceable and then all of our made-to-measure solitaire rings are now featuring traceable diamonds. From next year we will have a project to ensure that all of our diamonds will be traceable so each piece will come with a certificate giving clients all the information on where the diamonds came from starting with the mine and the rough stone, through the full life of the diamond. This will be a big milestone for us. 

Then we have the subject of coloured stones which is a lot more complicated. There are thousands of mines in many different countries, some of them are very small and in fact, the stones that we are using at the Place Vendôme level are probably 0.5 per cent of the total stones that are extracted. So it’s very difficult to create a full supply chain with these stones for the time being because we select so few from so many different mining systems. Fortunately, the entire industry wants to move forward with this and we now have a group of high jewellery brands who are working together on the subject. In the meantime, each time we can find a stone that does meet our criteria and is beautiful and traceable, we will buy it. And on semi-precious stones, we have been working hard on Mother-of-Pearl. All of our Mother-of-Pearl stones are coming from one location in Australia which is a full-traceable, totally green way of sourcing the stones. So step by step we are developing different ways of sourcing stones. 

 What is a message you would send to your clients in the Middle East?

A big thank you. I am very proud of the clientele that we have in the Middle East so it’s a really sincere thank you to our clients for understanding our brand so well.

On 2nd November 2021 Fashion Trust Arabia presented its latest edition of the FTA Prize which celebrates and supports exciting new design talent in the region. See some of the VIP and celebrity guests of the night below.

Natalia Vodianova

Sabrina Elba

Gillian Anderson

Julianne Hough

Coco Rocha

Abdel El Tayeb

Irina Shayk

Joshua Jackson

Alexa Chung

Adriana Lima

Pierpaolo Piccioli, Creative Director at Valentino

Stephen Jones, Milliner

Mo Al Turki

Amina Muaddi and Virgil Abloh

Carine Roitfeld

Fashion Trust Arabia hosted its third annual FTA 2021 Prize on 3^rd November 2021 in Doha, Qatar.

With a star-studded guestlist including international and regional celebrities, press and VIPs the glamourous event, which took place at the National Museum, saw this year’s five winners announced on the evening.

FTA Founder Tania Fares welcomed guests alongside Her Excellency Sheikha Al Mayassa bint Hamad bin Khalifa Al Thani, Chairperson of Qatar Museums and Co-Chair of Fashion Trust Arabia, under the Patronage of Her Highness Sheikha Mossa Bint Nasser.

The winners were selected by the FTA Jury which this year included the likes of Virgil Abloh, Zuhair Murad, Pierpaolo Piccioli, Natalia Vodianova, Lorraine Schwartz, Elie Saab, Alexa Chung and more.

Twenty-four candidates presented their collections during a judging day at the M7 culture space in Doha. After discovering the collections which covered various different categories the final winners were announced during a gala event yesterday evening.

This year’s winners are:

• Zaid Affas, Ready-to-Wear designer winner
• Alia Bin Omair, Jewellery designer winner
• Port Tanger (by Bilal Fellah,) Accessories designer winner
• Benchellal (by Mohamed Benchellal,) Eveningwear designer winner
• El Tayeb Nation (by Abdelgarder El Tayeb), Franca Sozzani Debut Talent Award
• A New Cross (by Agustin Nicolas Rivero), Guest Country Award

Each winner will receive financial support of up to $200,000, and benefit from an extensive mentorship program with key FTA partners. This includes a special partnership with retailer MATCHESFASHION, which will be stocking exclusively on its website all FTA 2021 winners, in addition to providing business mentorship.

Find out more at www.fashiontrustarabia.com

Gucci showcased its latest collection designed by Alessandro Michele with an impressive runway show on the Hollywood Boulevard Walk of Fame.

The Love Parade collection was a tribute to Hollywood and saw many of Hollywood’s finest turn out to join the celebrations.

In the show notes the designed described his memories of his mother working in the film industry and the stories she told him of the incredible outfits she used to see.

“There was the alabaster paleness of Marilyn Monroe and her diaphanous voice. There were the black satin gloves of Rita Hayworth and Veronica Lake’s velvet hair, as well as the bewitching allure of Rock Hudson and Kim Novak’s dizzying transformative power. Everything felt like a fairy tale.” He said.

He spoke of how he dreamed of Hollywood as a young boy living on the outskirts of Rome and he wats to celebrate this dream in the best way possible; on the iconic Hollywood Boulevard.

Not surprisingly, the Love Parade collection offered all the glitz and glamour you would expect from a Hollywood inspired collection.

Dazzling details, luxe materials clashing prints and bold embellishment echoed the golden years of film.

Lace detail dresses and ruffles gowns looked as though they had been taken straight from the Oscars red carpet.

While the classic Gucci suit, inspired by the brand’s Tom Ford era, made a return for both men and women in various colours and fabrics.

There were accentuated shoulders, bold layering, unexpected materials and clashing prints – as if they had been taken straight from an Old Hollywood movie.

Film stars including Jared Leto, Macaulay Culkin, Miranda July, and Jodie Turner-Smith appeared on the runway in the latest looks, while a star-studded front row including Gwyneth Paltrow, Dakota Johnson and Miley Cyrus seemed suitably impressed.

The 115 look collection captured the timelessness of classic Hollywood and gave us all that moment of nostalgia we need.

See more below:

Yesterday evening (November 2^nd 2021) Chanel presented a re-show of its Cruise 2022 collection in Dubai.

The Parisian house showcased the collection with an impressive show inside a purpose-built structure beside Dubai’s Creek Harbour.

Following the runway show, guests celebrated at a star-studded after-party which featured a performance by John Legend and Faouzia.

The collection which was designed by Virginie Viard was presented in a setting draped in beige fabric, punctuated with shadows and projections of olive branches, echoing the atmosphere of the first show unveiled last May at the Carrières de Lumières in the village of Les Baux-de-Provence, in the South of France.

The silhouettes evoke the simplicity and poetry of Testament of Orpheus, made in 1959 at the Carrières de Lumières by the poet, draughtsman, playwright and filmmaker Jean Cocteau, who was friends with Gabrielle Chanel. The atmosphere of the film inspired Virginie Viard to create a very sharp collection, with a distinct two-tone colour scheme, playing on the monochrome contrasts of the 60s, rock and punk.

Chanel ambassadors Penélope Cruz, Caroline de Maigret and Soo Joo Park attended the show along with the actors Sofia Boutella, Tara Emad, Ruba Zarour and Keean Johnson, the singers Faouzia and John Legend and the musician Kungs.

The CHANEL Cruise 2021/22 collection is now available in boutiques from November 3rd 2021 in the Middle East and from November 9th in the rest of the world.

Panerai has announced a new limited edition timepiece created in honour of the celebration of the UAE’s 50th anniversary that will take place on 2nd December 2021.

Combining the finest in Swiss watchmaking and Italian heritage the new Luminor GMT Spirit of the Union (PAM01971) pays tribute to the UAE and the brand’s strong relationship with the Emirates.

The watch’s P.9010/GMT calibre alludes to the history of the UAE: a green GMT hand and rubberized crown recall the colours of the national flag, as does the shimmering black sun-brushed dial, while an engraving on the caseback reads “Year of the Fiftieth” in English and Arabic. Even the reference number—PAM01971, refers to the date of the UAE’s founding half a century ago.

The watch is accompanied by 4 rubber straps, red, green, white & black, as a recall to the nation’s flag and a black alligator strap as an elegant finishing touch for the watch.

Available in a limited edition number of just 200 pieces the Luminor GMT Spirit of the Union is available exclusively at the Panerai boutiques in the UAE.

Dior’s Cruise 2022 collection combines elegant gowns with nautical elements for the perfect blend of winter wear.

See more of the collection below in our recent editorial shoot.

Beige Coat
White shirt Off White Bermuda “Dior Book Tote” in Gold Star embroidery “D-Zenith” Low Boots
All Dior

Beige Coat
White shirt Off White Bermuda “Dior Book Tote” in Gold Star embroidery “D-Zenith” Low Boots
All Dior

White Jacket Black and White sweater White Shorts Black “Dior Vibe Zip Bowling”R’ Bag “Diorriron” Low boots
All Dior

Dress Necklace Beige “30 Montaigne” bag
All Dior

Coat
Black Bustier
Blouse
Bermuda
Silver “Dior Vibe Zip Bowling”R’ Bag “Diorriron” Boots
All Dior

Black and White Sweater
All Dior

Black and White Sweater
White Bermuda
White “Dior Vibe Classic Bowling” bag White “D-Zenith” Low Boots
All Dior

White Sleeveless Shirt Off White Sleeveless Blouse White Bermuda White “D-Zenith” Low Boots
All Dior

White Sleeveless Shirt
Off white Sleeveless Blouse
All Dior

Long Multicoloured Dress
All Dior

Photographer: John Rowley

Styling and Direction: Lindsay Judge

Hair and makeup: Lisa Valencia

Model: Chiara Pasetto
Location: Mandarin Oriental Lago Di Como

Under the direction of Kim Jones and Kim Kardashian West, Fendi and SKIMS debut a collection that brings together the DNA of both brands and offers a capsule wardrobe for today’s modern woman.

Drawing upon sketches from an archival FENDI collection first presented by Karl Lagerfeld in 1979 which placed a focal point on twisted tube tops, pop colours and tight sashes, FENDI x SKIMS combines the focus on fit and form SKIMS is known for, transporting into both the past and present of the FENDI universe.

Fendi x Skims dress Baguette Bag Fendi First Shoes

“The idea for the collaboration came about when my team and I were sitting around a table at the studio in Rome,” explains Kim Jones. “Suddenly, all the women went silent and started looking at their phones. I didn’t know what was going on, but they were waiting for the launch of the new SKIMS collection. It was then that I thought: let’s do something together.”

Both FENDI and SKIMS have a cultural power very different from each other, but equally as strong,” said Kim Kardashian West. “We share a desire to push boundaries, think differently and challenge convention which is why we found so much common ground collaborating on this collection together.”

Fendi x Skims crop top Fendi x Skims trousers Fendi First sunglasses Fendi O’Lock mono earring Fendi Peekaboo bag

Discover more of the collection in our latest editorial production…

Fendi x Skims leather dress Fendi First clutch
Fendi O’Lock Mono Earring

Fendi x Skims bodysuit Fendi sunglasses

Fendi First bootie

Fendi First shoes

Fendi First sunglasses

Fendi x Skims bodysuit Fendi x Skims jacket Fendi Pendant
Fendi Touch bag

Fendi x Skims bodysuit Fendi x Skims jacket Fendi Pendant
Fendi Touch bag
Fendi trainers

Photography: Abdulla Elmaz
Styling and Direction: Lindsay Judge
Hair: Jamilla Paul using Authentic Beauty Concept Makeup: Manuel Losada

Model: Taina at Signature Element
Location: Ritz Carlton, Ras Al Khaimah, Al Wadi Desert

The collection is launching November 2 with a dynamic Pop-Up in Dubai Mall’s Fashion Catwalk rotunda, as well as in select stores in the region on November 9. 

Valentino will unveil a Haute Couture Abaya collection in Qatar this week in line with the occasion of #QatarCreates.

The fifteen abayas will be revealed within a special installation that will feature the Valentino Des Ateliers Haute Couture collection and twelve artworks that have inspired it.

The exclusive collection created by Artistic Director Pierpaolo Piccioli mirror the House’s Haute Couture collections and are created by the Maison’s expert ateliers.

The abayas are presented in vibrant colours and have long and layered silhouettes. The virtuosity of the workmanship dissolves in ineffable, effortless lightness.

The exclusive abaya collection will be available on private appointments starting from the 31st of October until the 5th of November 2021 at Doha Design District.

Last year, when the world was in turmoil, Pomellato brought joy with the launch of its first high jewellery collection.

Named La Gioia, meaning “joy” in Italian, the one-of-a-kind pieces took the brand’s unique style and DNA to the next level with a collection that allowed freedom of expression and elegance that resonates with the modern woman. This year, La Gioia returns with a second collection that is a love letter to the past, with a contemporary and sustainable twist. Divided into two chapters the collection defines the constraints of time and puts sustainable practices at the heart of each jewel.

In the first chapter, Pomellato creates one-of-a-kind pieces using beloved jewels from its own archive to make new designs that combine elements of the past with modern-day style. Archival pieces are reworked into contemporary jewels and given a second life. The second chapter is a high jewellery take on the house’s rich history of iconic chains and sautoirs. The collection celebrates a return to life and represents the key values that the brand holds dear to its heart. To find out more about the latest high jewellery collection as well as the brand’s future in the Middle East and its continued dedication to sustainability, we talk to CEO Sabina Belli.

Tell us about the second LA Gioia high jewellery collection and the vision behind it?

The high jewellery collection’s name “La Gioia” means “joy” in Italian and I think this is a really good place to start because when we were first thinking about this collection we considered the world at that time and everything that was happening with the pandemic and we were convinced that after such a terrible, historical moment for the planet, people would need something to rejoice about when we got back to “normal” life. This project was born in a moment when people were completely locked down in a very negative and scary mindset, and we at Pomellato, wanted to encourage them to think about joyful things and give our customers reasons to rejoice when we bounced back from the pandemic. And so, that is when we decided to launch a line of high jewellery, mainly consisting of unique pieces, but with a very strong concept that each of the pieces was very much inspired and in line with Pomellato’s strong aesthetics. It’s a combination of wanting to give people reasons to rejoice and expressing the most joyful facet of the brand. As well as amplifying and giving a more opulent and rich vision of our evergreen symbols, and finally, giving our goldsmiths and amazingly talented and exceptional artisans the possibility to express themselves through one-of-a-kind pieces.

Using pieces from the archives is something that has never been done before – tell us how this idea came about and what is the importance of it?

That is also very important to us when thinking of new ways to express Pomellato. With this collection and all our collections, we wanted to be extremely compliant with the rules around sustainability, respect and ethics. So something that came to mind was to give a second life to some of our archival jewellery pieces by revamping and redesigning them in a new way that reconsiders the way they can be worn. We have earrings that have become a necklace for example, and a pendant that became a brooch. Some of the pieces we already had in our archives and some we located through our partners and friends of the brand. It was a really interesting experience.

We know that it also highlights the brand’s commitment to sustainability – what can you tell us about that and the continued efforts at Pomellato to be a sustainable jewellery brand? 

We have been taking sustainability into account from day one because we have always been very concerned and worried by the fact that we operate in one of the least transparent industries in terms of its stones, so we wanted to make sure that at least where we can be, we are 100 per cent ethical. So our gold and diamonds are now totally certified and completely traceable, and there is a very clear blockchain so, in these fields, we are now 100 per cent ethical.

It’s more difficult when it comes to coloured gemstones because there are fewer certifications available, but having said that, we want to make sure that we are breaking ground on this, so we have been working on a couple of partnerships related to beginning this journey. We have been testing working with a specific mine for Lapis Lazuli to see how this works. There are so many layers to the process and it is very complicated. The most important part is to make sure that we have the traceability to at least go back as far as possible in the different players of the market to make sure that each of them is behaving in a compliant way. Particularly related to the wellbeing and safety of the workers across the supply chain.

The second part of the collection embraces freedom and creativity – how does this highlight the brand values of Pomellato? 

Even though we are much smaller than the big players in the market, we have a very recognisable style. We have very specific aesthetics and this was taken into consideration when we began to imagine the high jewellery collection. The project started by with a vision to create an even more impressive, opulent, and rich version of what already exists at the brand. So, for example, Vincenzo Castaldo our Creative Director started one design from a single stone from the Nudo collection and created a cascade of Nudo that took the design to the next level. He also took one very classic, iconic chain and created an incredibly versatile multicoloured version of it. So it was a question of carte blanche and total freedom for Vincenzo to express himself and it was quite fun compared with when we are creating ready-to-wear jewels as there are a lot more constraints related to price and the sourcing of the gems etc. but here there was more of the freedom to create fireworks and not worry about anything and it became a fabulous burst of creativity.

What do you think women are looking for from high jewellery today?

Most women around the world do not have a red-carpet occasion to attend in their regular lives. So what they are looking for is something that is accessible and wearable, even though it’s a precious piece. A piece that you could mix and match and wear even with a very simple sweater for example. It doesn’t have to be something that could only be worn on the red carpet. And also, I think they are looking for pieces that are timeless. You don’t want to own a piece of jewellery that screams 2020 and then, five years later, it’s dated. So there is this idea of mixing everlasting aesthetics and style with something that is also very approachable and intimate, and you want to wear it, because I think there is nothing more frustrating than having jewellery that’s kept in a vault.

Happy 20th anniversary for the Nudo collection – to what do you attribute the success of the design that has become an icon of all icons? 

Twenty years of age is in some ways very young, but in jewellery years it starts to become significantly old and it allows something to be categorised as a classic or iconic piece. Of course, we know that all major brands have an iconic timeless piece, and I think that if you look at what all these pieces have in common that’s when you discover the attributes of what makes something an icon. They are pieces that never go out of style, year after year you still feel they are relevant. And on the brand side, the owners make these iconic products constantly relevant. They don’t let them age badly. There are continual updates and tweaks to these iconic pieces and that is something that is very much needed in ensuring something becomes iconic. And that is what we have done with Nudo because we have constantly tweaked it and added pieces. We have many different sizes, colours and designs and it is constantly being reinvented. The latest collection is called “Chocolate” and it features a stone in a unique shade of brown. We have another capsule called “Gelé” which looks almost like frosted sweets and candies, so we like to play with it. One other very typical characteristic of an iconic design is that if you have one, you want another one! It becomes something that you want to collect. With Nudo you can stack the pieces, you can wear them in so many ways and mix and match the styles and colours together and that’s something that’s special about the collection. And one final impressive characteristic of Nudo is that it started as a ring, just a  stone on a simple design that didn’t distract from that stone, and now it’s been reinvented in so many ways which gives it a very versatile character.

What can you tell us about Pomellato in the Middle East?

We are always extremely attracted to the Middle East because it’s a region where women are very sophisticated, they have good taste, they know what fashion means and they love to pamper themselves. Dressing up is very important to women in the Middle East and their beauty is perfect for wearing jewellery because their beautiful features enhance the jewels. We have always dreamt of becoming a brand of choice in the Middle East and we are now proud to be distributed in Dubai, Abu Dhabi and Doha, and we are expanding little by little. We have a very nice store in The Dubai Mall.

We know that supporting women is something very important to you as a person and to the brand – what is in the pipeline in terms of projects on that front?

This is still a very important mission for us at Pomellato. Being a brand for women and having so many women who buy our products for themselves we feel very close to them. We have chosen to express our voice on the issue of domestic violence. It’s unbelievable that still today, one in three women in the world is a victim of domestic violence in some form. So we want to create awareness of this through two strong pillars. The first is to show women that there is the possibility to find freedom and escape the situation and to not consider themselves victims, but rather survivors. And then secondly, we need to educate men because if there are women who are victims of violence, it’s because there are violent men. So that needs to be stopped. No matter the culture, location, etc. – it is something that we need to raise our voices on. Through lockdown the number of women who were being subjected to domestic violence was shocking and for many of these women, the one escape they have is being able to leave the house to go to work and so in that situation things became difficult. Furthermore, the consequences of a woman being in a situation of violence also reflects on the children and the next generations because we know that children can be influenced by the behaviour, they see around them. Unfortunately, the number one problem with this situation is that women feel that they cannot speak up about it as there is such a strong social taboo, so we need to act as soon as possible and give women the possibility of speaking up and not be ashamed.

“Gioia” of course means “joy” in Italian – what brings you joy?

There are millions of things that bring me joy! Travelling was something that did but of course, that hasn’t been so easy recently. But I think I am someone who can be very joyful when something has been done and finished before moving on to the next thing. The very feeling of there being a before and after and the after bringing a visible solution rejoices me a lot.

What is something you would like to do at Pomellato that you haven’t done yet?

I still would very much like to convince the new generation that being a goldsmith is a great professional choice. This also has to do with convincing their families that the work of hands can be a beautiful thing. Craftsmanship is something that belongs to our culture and this excellence in producing things with your hands is such an incredible skill. I would love to make sure that there will continue to be goldsmiths in Italy across future generations.

What is the motto you live by?

“Life hasn’t done anything that human beings cannot survive”. And “There is a solution to everything, provided that you want it.”

What is a message you would send to your clients and fans reading this conversation?

I am getting more and more sensitive to the value of things. Not the financial value – yes money can buy all, but if you think of a jewel that has been made by hand, by someone that owns a technique that is so unique, that for me, has an amazing value and it should be recognised. A piece of jewellery has the added value of the human touch and I think that’s what sets it apart. I think that humans should go back to the real value of things and this is something that I want customers to remember when looking at Pomellato.

By Lindsay Judge

Salvatore Ferragamo is giving new life to some of its materials with a special “upcycled” capsule collection.

The limited edition “Salvatore Ferragamo Icon-Up” collection features 300 shoes and accessories that re-use some of the House’s iconic prints and materials.

The latest collection marks the Italian House’s latest phase in its journey towards promoting a more circular economy by reusing and giving new life to materials that would previously have been cast away.

Each design within the collection is unique, utilising products and materials recovered from the brand’s stock, including shoes, accessories and printed silk, reimagined by their Creative team and manufactured by highly specialized local artisans and in-house Manovia (the brand’s historic prototyping and manufacturing unit) young craftspeople. A celebration of vibrant colour and striking prints, proposing this season conscious wardrobe staple.

The capsule collection represents the brand’s core values of innovation and craftsmanship, strengthening Ferragamo’s positioning as a pioneer in circular creativity.

Remaining true to its ethos, Salvatore Ferragamo Icon-Up blends contemporary design with repurposed materials, giving a second life to iconic pieces from the Fashion House.

Available exclusively at farfetch.com

Emirates Literature Foundation and Seddiqi Holding have launched the region’s first global standard mentorship programme for aspiring writers.

Titled First Chapter, the ELF Seddiqi Writers’ Fellowship will be free to successful applicants and will identify and nurture emerging writing talent, elevating it to an international standard and bringing it to global attention.

The ELF Seddiqi Writers’ Fellowship

Throughout the year-long programme writers will gain access to one-to-one mentorship with industry experts and international authors including top crime writer Mark Billingham; Yrsa Siggodottir, the Queen of Nordic Noir; Shahad Al Rawi, the youngest writer to ever make the Arabic Booker Prize shortlist; and one of Kuwait’s most celebrated writers, Taleb Al Refai.

There will also be a number of exclusive workshops from international authors including Ian Rankin and Alexander McCall Smith. The programme will also provide introductions to international agents, editors and publishers.

Applicants are invited to apply online and a total of 10 successful candidates will be selected for the inaugural course. The successful candidates will be a mix of English and Arabic writers. As the project grows, a mutually supportive writing community of alumni will develop that continues to nurture the writers after the programme has been completed, with ongoing support.

Hind Abdul Hamied Seddiqi, Chief Marketing and Communications Officer, Seddiqi Holding

We are honoured to establish a platform that is set to advance locally-based writers and literature, effectively growing the creative writing community in the UAE and the region. Seddiqi Holding seeks partners who pioneer development across the community, and we are proud to catalyse this initiative in partnership with Emirates Literature Foundation. The program is designed to nurture talent in the UAE and aid in the development of their craft; by connecting them with pillars across the global literary sphere.” said Hind Abdul Hamied Seddiqi, Chief Marketing and Communications Officer, Seddiqi Holding.

Ahlam Bolooki, Festival Director of the Emirates Airline Festival of Literature

“This is a truly unique opportunity – a global-standard mentorship programme which is a dream for any aspiring writer. It is a key objective of the Emirates Literature Foundation to create international opportunities for local writers, and thanks to this far-sighted partnership with Seddiqi Holding, this fellowship will be a key milestone in that journey. Our hope is that over the next five years, this fellowship will create a notable pool of authors based in the UAE, with audiences all over the world,” said Ahlam Bolooki, Festival Director of the Emirates Airline Festival of Literature. “The writing scene within the UAE and the Arab World is not as developed as it is in many other parts of the world. We know there are many within the region who have fascinating stories to tell, but just need to find their voice, and the right way to tell their stories. Through giving these diverse writers access to internationally recognised experts, providing guidance and advice, we hope to equip them to compete on a global platform. Anyone serious about their writing career should jump at the chance to be part this fantastic platform for new writing.”

For more information and to apply for the Fellowship, visit https://www.elfdubai.org/en/first-chapter-writers-fellowship

After last night’s spooky evening celebrities have been revealing their fun, fabulous and downright creative Halloween costumes on social media. We handpick some of our favourite looks.

Hailey Bieber as Britney Spears

Lizzo as Yoda

Kendall Jenner

Chrissy Teigen

Kris Jenner

Katy Perry and Orlando Bloom

Taylor Swift

Ariana Grande

Under the patronage of Her Highness Sheikha Manal bint Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum, President of the UAE Gender Balance Council and President of the Dubai Women Establishment, Expo 2020 Dubai and Cartier welcomed esteemed guests to Al Wasl Plaza to celebrate the official opening of the Women’s Pavilion at the global event.

The impressive pavilion is dedicated to celebrating women’s significant contributions to society and recognising the incredible achievements and capabilities of women from around the world.

The event was inaugurated by Her Excellency Reem Al Hashimy, UAE Minister of State for International Cooperation and Director General, Expo 2020 Dubai; Her Excellency Mona Ghanem Al Marri, Director General of the Government of Dubai Media Office and Vice President of the UAE Gender Balance Council; and Cyrille Vigneron, President and CEO of Cartier International.

HE Reem Al Hashimy © Saï – Stéphane Aït Ouarab 2021

French politician Christine Lagarde addressed the audience, reminding them of the impact women can make when they are put in positions of power and influence. Inaugurating the event, Her Excellency Reem Al Hashimy said: “The UAE has placed gender equality and women’s empowerment at the core of its ethos since its founding, recognising the immense potential of women to contribute to the nation’s rapid advancement – a belief that is echoed globally as crucial for sustainable development.”

“We will soon mark the beginning of another 50 years of prosperity for the UAE, and we are emboldened by the stories of Arab and Muslim female trail-blazers from centuries past and present, brought to life in Expo 2020’s Women’s Pavilion. Challenging misconceptions and stereotypes, Expo 2020 reinforces the critical role of gender equality and women’s empowerment in safeguarding the future of humanity and our planet – and we welcome the world to engage with the Women’s Pavilion, reminding us all that every person has a role to play in the journey ahead.”

Cyrille Vigneron, President and CEO of Cartier International added: “The path to gender equality is a long path and the worst thing we could do is regress. All countries are moving in their own way but we also see regression when it comes to gender equality. We have to move forward from wherever we start, and that’s a place to rejoice and celebrate.”

Womens Pavillon Cartier Ceremony 2021 by Saï – Stéphane Aït Ouarab 2021 – Luxury Makers-57

The four artists commissioned to curate and design the Pavilion, Laura Gonzalez, eL Seed, Nadine Labaki and Mélanie Laurent along with ‘Friends of the Maison’ Monica Belluci, Vanessa Kirby, Ramla Ali, and Amira Casar, Yasmine Sabry, Fatima Albanawi, Dhafer L’Abidine, Fouz Al Fahad, Farida Khelfa and Elisa Sednaoui were also among the guests in attendance.

The Women’s Pavilion at Expo 2020 Dubai will remain open for the duration of the event.

Celine’s Triomphe line is a new signature of Celine that has been developed under Hedi Slimane’s direction.

A selection of accessories with chic designs are inspired by the curved chain surrounding the Arch of Triumph in Paris; a monument that first caught the eye of Céline Vipiana, the house’s founder in 1972.

The chain inspired a “double C” emblem that appeared on many of the brand’s accessories and ready-to-wear in the seventies and it has been resurrected by Slimane on the latest collections.

The Triomphe bag is now available in several sizes and styles, broadening the family to create a large collection of elegantly understated pieces. For the Fall/Winter 2021 collection new updated colourways and prints add a fresh take on the collection.

Now available at Celine stores and online.

Hermès Beauty has unveiled three limited edition shades of its Rouge Hermès lipstick.

Rose Tamisé, Orange Brûlé & Rose Magenta are rich autumnal shades that will offer a bold long-lasting look this season.

Rose Tamisé is an atmospheric pink hue, as elusive and diaphanous as the evening mist or the shifting reflections of a rose on the surface of water, playing with light.

Rouge Hermes Edition Limitee AH 21 Rose Tamise © Studio des fleurs 2

Orange Brûlé is a smouldering, charismatic orange, like a harvest moon, a tawny glow in the depths of night. It shines out with contained yet powerful radiance.

Rouge Hermes Edition Limitee AH 21 Orange Brule © Studio des fleurs 2

Rose Magenta is a dense, intense, piercing pink, like a cry in the night. It envelops shadow in a fiery embrace, a star-spangled whirlwind of joy.

Rouge Hermes Edition Limitee AH 21 Rose Magenta © Studio des fleurs

The three limited edition lipsticks are encased in elegantly designed cases. Designed by Pierre Hardy, creator of Hermès Beauty objects and creative director for Hermès shoes and jewellery, the three objects feature a palette transcended by a collision of colour.

Each lipstick is refillable and available at selected Hermès retail outlets around the world.

Dior has opened a pop-up boutique and unique installation at Dubai’s trendy beach hangout Nammos.

Created in partnership with WASP, the installation features a unique 3D printed structure that has been made from natural materials including clay, sand and raw fibres.

This hi-tech feat pushes the boundaries of savoir-faire for the Italian manufacturer which for the first time, like a digital tailor, has designed a habitable structure in proportions never seen before.

The pop-up features beachside accessories and objects including deckchairs, parasols, cushions and bottles adorned with toile de Jouy, as well as a number of classic accessories from the house’s latest collections.

This seasons Dioriviera collection is presented in bold acidic hues and the Lady Dior Wicker baskets are must-have for beach season.

The unique concept store is now open at Nammos, Dubai.