On the bridge of the La Pausa liner last May, Karl Lagerfeld imagined a collection inspired by cruise ships. The silhouette is happy, thought out for travelling comfortably and with style, just as Gabrielle Chanel did.

Onboard the Flying Cloud, the yacht belonging to the Duke of Westminster, the designer liked to wear simple outfits, fine knitwear, pleated skirts and low-heeled shoes fastened with a strap – the Chanel Mary Janes. In block colour or two-tone, Mademoiselle would also wear them ashore, most often with light knits and mid-length skirts.

These shoes feature regularly in Karl Lagerfeld’s Ready-to-Wear and Haute Couture collections, each time in new previously unseen forms: precious or understated, with a single or double strap, flat or with a heel, according to the designer’s imagination.

For the 2018/19 Cruise collection, Karl Lagerfeld reinvents them as “children’s party shoes” to punctuate the looks of the collection. Imagined in silver goatskin, in white calfskin or embellished with sequins, and perched on a little heel, this new version brings elegance and femininity to a shoe long associated with children’s wear. With their rounded toe, they follow in the line of the ballerina, the emblematic Chanel shoe. The designer has also created a casual-chic sportswear version with a rubber sneaker sole.

Discover the 2018/19 Chanel Cruise collection in boutiques.

Originally launched in 2016, Louis Vuitton’s Horizon luggage range now has a new look in the form of Horizon Soft. The rolling luggage is the latest in luggage innovation and was designed by Marc Newson who is a true icon in the realm of design.

The Horizon Soft is created for the modern traveller with ground-breaking features including a thermos-formed 3D knit outer-shell with a double-sided jacquard that features Newman’s interpretation of the Louis Vuitton Monogram. The knit is fully fashioned in a custom made technical yarn that includes elastic and thermos-fusible threads, using a seamless knitting technology, a process that has been tailored specifically to the needs of Louis Vuitton. This one-piece knit is then formed to give it the shape.

It is given a water-repellent treatment to ensure it is practical for all climates. Cuts for pockets and zips are made with ultra-sound cutting techniques and the stitching is replaced with tape which is fused through heat setting.

Thanks to Marc Newman’s unique and stylish design, the Horizon Soft is lightweight yet strong and resistant. The trolley weighs just 2.9kg for the cabin size. The trolley is finished with an anodised aluminium extendable cane which has been relocated outside from within the bag, adding both structure and strength as well as increasing packing space. The cane handle is covered in leather for elegance and embodies the historic Louis Vuitton style.

Every component was custom-designed so not to mirror anything else on the market. This includes the aluminium 3-digit combination zip-pull lick system that is TSA approved. The lock comes in silver, champagne or dark grey. The two wheels have been engineered to be as silent as possible.

Newman spoke of the design: “This can be defined as disruptive simply because no one has done it; it’s innovation really… I’m a frequent traveller and like a lot of people I know I’m travelling nonstop so I know what I want my luggage to do and I don’t think I’m alone. Travel is so intrinsically linked to luxury, from the historical context to a functional context. The two just go hand in hand really.”

The rolling luggage collection is now in Louis Vuitton stores and is available in a number of colours and sizes.

For emerging designers it really does seem as though anything is possible in the UAE. The country’s outlook to dream big and achieve greatly is a concept that many creatives are inspired by when it comes to achieving their own goals.

Dubai in particular is a hub for fashion, the city’s malls, stores and constant immersion in the creative world make it the perfect destination for aspiring designers. The opening of Dubai Design District (D3) and the development of the Dubai Design and Fashion Council (DDFC) has created exciting platforms for creatives to develop and build their brands. The growing opportunities in the region are an inspiration to locally based designers. Here we hear from some of those who have built their brand in this country.

MADIYAH AL SHARQI

FOUNDER OF MADIYAH AL SHARQI

“We’re very grateful to have such an established and consistent market in the UAE. I think a huge part of that can be attributed to the fact that all of our production takes place in the UAE, based out of my atelier in Fujairah that has been creating the collections for 16 seasons. I’m so proud that we’re able to do that, and to maintain an international standard through local production with a highly skilled team. While we source all of our fabric, lace and embroidery from Italy and France, it has always been fundamental to the brand that the pieces are produced here.”

LAMA JOUNI

FOUNDER OF LAMA JOUNI

“After studying and living in Paris, I’ve found not only a home in Dubai but a great place to settle down and establish my ready-to-wear label and have all my collections designed and tailored here in my own atelier. The UAE’s diversity has allowed me to reach women from different backgrounds through my designs. It is the perfect location because it’s such a young, vibrant city that connects everyone through so many opportunities and platforms. Allowing young design talents like myself to grow our business.”

LATIFA AL GURG

FOUNDER OF TWISTED ROOTS

“The UAE is not only my home and my roots, but it’s my inspiration. It’s a place where the whole world is welcome, where different cultures come together to learn and grow. Twisted Roots was born from the idea of exploring and learning from different cultures and how this knowledge helps you grow. So it is only natural for my business to be based here. I am deeply grateful to be based in a country that wholly supports me and my business and enables me to reach out through support systems like the DDFC to not only the design community, but every sector.”

YAGO GOICOECHEA & RICCARDO AUDISIO

FOUNDERS OF TALLER MARMO

“The UAE has played an important role and was the launchpad for the growth and success of Taller Marmo. Fresh out of leaving Istituto Marangoni, we moved to Dubai to established Taller Marmo. We have a strong influence of Middle Eastern charm combined with European elegance in the stories of our collections – from the way we choose our fabrics to the signature silhouettes we design. Inspiration is drawn from the conversation between the nostalgia of the UAE’s past and contemporary culture, intersecting with exquisite Italian tailoring, making the UAE a vital part of our brand identity.”

ARWA AL BANAWI

FOUNDER OF ARWA AL BANAWI

“The UAE is my second home after Jeddah, Saudi Arabia. I fly back and forth between the two for work and family and the Dubai Design District is where I opened my showroom. It’s a beautiful engaging community that I am proud to have been a part of from the beginning.”

BASMA ABU GHAZALEH

FOUNDER OF KAGE

“For me the UAE is home. When I decided to start KAGE my business partner and I were living in Dubai and wanted to start a fashion label, so it made sense to set up our brand here. Dubai has provided the perfect launchpad to start and grow my brand. The Middle East is an important market in terms of international fashion. It’s an incubator for regional talent with great initiatives such as DDFC and Dubai Design District, which has now become the cities fashion hub.”

YASMIN AL MULLA

FOUNDER OF YNM

“We are so blessed, and fortunate to live in this beautiful country; where women take their chances in all aspects, and their voices are being heard. Growing up in the UAE is a privilege, a beautiful, and inspiring thing, as the rapid developments urge us to work hard to keep up and develop ourselves, and achieve our goals too. We are very driven in representing our country in a very optimistic way – as His Highness Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum’s famous quote says: “Dubai will never settle for anything less than first place” And that’s exactly what I am aspiring to. I want to be recognized globally as a successful designer and entrepreneur from the UAE.”

REEMA AL BANNA

FOUNDER OF REEMAMI

“For me the UAE is home. I was born and raised here and this is the country where I discovered my love for fashion and graphics. When I first started in 2010 there were very few ready-to-wear fashion designers and the community was so thrilled to see new creativity and talent. It’s the best country to have ever grown Reemami.”

NOORA HEFZI

FOUNDER OF NOORA HEFZI

“For me the UAE is a home away from home. I have been living here for the past 10 years so it was natural for me to set up my business here. There is so much support and help for small businesses and start ups that it makes the UAE the perfect place to start a business. I feel that UAE is a regional hub for all kinds of talents weather it is tailors, suppliers, or the media. They are all ready to work with designers and support them.”

SHAIKHA AMAL AL MAKTOUM

FOUNDER OF AZZALIA

“The UAE has always been very supportive to its own youth in any industry but as the UAE has been a number one tourist shopping destination the fashion industry started booming and overall the people here started being very aware with the latest fashion trends. The talents in the UAE started surfacing and supported by our blessed government. A whole fashion and design infrastructure was set to support these talents such as D3 dubai design district and DDFC dubai design fashion council. With the great support of our government I was given an opportunity to participate in a competition and win and got the opportunity to showcase my collections in London Fashion Week which gave me great experience and enhanced my brand profile. Moreover, our blessed leaders don’t stop they continue inspiring us to reach the upmost highest achievements and levels.”

Sheikha Amal Al Maktoum, Creative Director.

NADINE KANSO

FOUNDER OF BIL ARABI

“The UAE is a place of inspiration and dreams. I started Bil Arabi twelve years ago and I feel that the UAE was a big part of its growth, Itwas and still is a platform for new businesses , where things can happen. The UAE is not only home but also an Arab Nation we are so proud of.”

SHEIKHA MARIAM

FOUNDER OF MKS

“The UAE is home and my identity. It’s my first memory and my favorite story, my muse and starting point. My brand is a story I tell to the world and the UAE is the the basis of my story.”

WHILE THE REST OF THE INDUSTRY DESPERATELY TRIES TO FIND FOOTING IN A FAST-PACED DIGITALLY DRIVEN MARKET, MAISON ASSOULINE RETAINS THE GREATEST THING A BEAUTIFULLY CRAFTED BOOK CAN OFFER – TIME FOR ESCAPISM.

The first luxury brand dedicated to culture, Maison Assouline began with the belief that a book artfully crafted and highly considered in its visual content can open our eyes and minds. For over two decades, guided by their passion for knowledge, culture, and travel, they have extended their vision to create all that can be desired in a chic library, including lavishly illustrated books and special editions that become unique decorative accessories.

The founders Prosper and Martine Assouline brought their vision of a luxury escape to the Dubai Mall with the unveiling of their second store – the first can be found in London’s Piccadilly Circus.

On the adjacent terrace overlooking the Dubai Fountains, we sit down with Prosper to discuss their vision for the region and how brand is not going to be swept up in the digital world.

Why did you choose to Dubai to open your new store?

For me, Dubai has something really specific. If you look at the globe, it’s the middle of the world for me, so its strategic for one. Number two, our books are couture and the region is full of couture. And number three, there are 180 different nationalities living here, so I really wanted to try to find a place here.

Talk us through the design concept.

It’s a huge space, I wanted to make it small. So when I designed it, I divided it in three parts. I wanted to make it warm with browns and reds and gold. First part is the books, then there’s a bar and then cabinets of curiosity. I wanted the terrace to be an oasis, an extension of the room. I want the customer to stay here, buy all their gifts here, we have a private room to discuss creating your own book and library. There’s nothing like that in all The Dubai Mall, we are bringing a new experience.

Can we expect any exclusive items for the region?

We are going to do a lot of books exclusive for the region. We will have limited editions that you can only find here, we have antique pieces that are one of a kind that you can also only find here. I want to make this place more and more unique.

Assouline goes beyond books, talk to us a little bit about what else customers can enjoy at the store.

Number one, you can have breakfast, lunch and dinner. Number two, the idea of this store is to have more cabinets of curiosity so we will do a book on Ferrari and you can buy the collectable model, we are going to do a book on the top 100 Rolex watches and we’re going to find the best vintage Rolex. This store is alive and it’s unique. We will also have a collection of jewellery in bronze made by an artist, and Gucci created a collection for Maison Assouline that you will only find here.

While many focus on the digital platforms, how is the world of Assouline adapting to keep a loyal customer base?

I love digital, but we are focusing on the book being even more beautiful, made by hand, more exceptional. The more people are going to talk to me about digital, the more my books are going to raise in quality.

What makes Assouline books so special?

It’s made by the same people by hand, and we are talking about style, we are not doing books on everything. They all have the same ingredients; beauty, education and style. We do the books like movies, it’s not just pictures with text.

What books can we find on your coffee table at the moment?

All of these books, but I also love books from the 1920’s. I love manuscripts from 18th and 19th century, I love the book on architecture from the 19th century.

Why do you think designers want to work with Assouline?

For our savoir faire. They come to us for our distribution because as we don’t distribute everywhere. The most important thing is to deliver what’s promised. We refuse 90 per cent of the books proposed because we put our name on them.

What challenges do you face?

Finding the right people to continue to work in this quality who don’t want to go to digital. I always say to my people ‘we are artisans’ we are not a factory of books. Each one has to be perfect, each letter, each font. Also, to grow organically, to control everything, to be in the right place. Now we are here, next year we will be in China, in Japan, but it has to be in the same quality.

If we were to start our Assouline collection, which books should we add to our library?

I still have a lot of emotions with my first book La Colombe d’Or. It’s a small hotel in the South of France and it was made by an artist in the beginning of the last century. They have the biggest collection of modern art today and I decided to do a book on them. I took the pictures, my wife wrote the text and it was not to create a publishing company, it was to do a book together and I still love this book. At the hotel, they still sell 1000 copies every year and nothing has changed in the book, we printed it 20 times and never changed anything.

What is your idea of a contemporary library?

A cabinet of curiosities, it can’t be just books. We wanted to design the complete library. I designed the furniture, and not because I want to be in the furniture business, but because when you have a book you need to sit, you need flowers, you need glasses for drinks. I love objects, and you can leave with a book.

Any tips on how to best look after the books?

To take time, to try to understand what a book is. When I do a book, I don’t oblige you to read the text, I want you to look at it, to understand the reason, and invite you to come back to read the text.

How do you see the publishing industry changing over the next few years?

I don’t care, I’m not interested. I do what I have to do.

What books would you love to work on?

Each time I say something, it happens. I wanted to do a book on Farah Diba (Pahlavi), the Empress of Iran, and we just did a huge book on her, it was a big success, we just reprinted the book after three weeks. Now, I want to do the most beautiful book on Dubai and the region.

What is your ultimate goal for Assouline in the new year?

To survive. To survive in this quality, I don’t want to compromise.

CAROL SUKKAR, CO-OWNER OF HOME & SOUL, THE UAE BASED HOMEWARE STORE, SHARES HER FESTIVE STYLING TIPS.

Carol Sukkar brought her decades of design experience to establish Home & Soul, a unique home retail concept in the heart of Jumeirah. Travelling to all corners of the world, owners Carol and Wael Sukkar bring together carefully curated homewares that are handpicked from all corners of the globe. Selected with a unique client in mind, Home & Soul’s pieces are quite different from anything else you’ll find in the UAE and bespoke unique collection of pieces from such a broad range of sources makes it a desired destination for interior savvy customers. Home & Soul has a distinct style of understated and simplistic design that is carefully considered and defined. They also offer and in-house interior design service for those looking to re-vamp their living space.

With that in mind, this festive season Home & Soul presents a carefully curated selection of seasonal interiors and decorations. In line with their ethos of understated elegance, the festive collection features pieces that are minimal and timeless. A&E spoke to co-owner Carol Sukkar on how to achieve the perfect balance of happiness and playfulness this festive season.

What trends can we expect to see in festive decorations this year?

If you truly want a modern and chic look we love slim and sparse tree decorations with neutral and metallic coloured ornaments. By neutral, we mean those that match the decor of your house. It is best to use subtle-toned ornaments such as white, silver and gold.

What is a starting point when decorating your home for the festive season?

Of course, the Christmas tree. Once you have that in place it makes it easier to decorate everything else.

What are the festive colour trends for this year?

Silver and gold – both are very subtle but a nod to the festive season.

How do you feel about one-colour tree decorations?

I love the concept of monotone decorations on a tree, all the same tones especially metallic colors such as silver and gold work well.

Classic or modern?

Modern for sure, just basic white lights.

As an interior designer what is your pet hate?

Not mixing textures, shapes and sizes with the ornaments on a Christmas tree. Avoiding to do so can make the tree quite bulky and cause an imbalance leaving it cluttered and unappealing.

What is the one essential thing everyone should have in their home at Christmas?

A Christmas tree for sure – there’s nothing like having all of your presents under the tree.

How do you decorate your home for Christmas but ensure it doesn’t feel cluttered?

I like to keep it simple. Adding a lot of candles to my coffee table helps to create depth. I keep the dining table neat and simple with just a few twigs and candle holders. The entrance is of prime importance to me with a lovely decorated Christmas wreath at the front of our door.

What are you suggestions for people with small homes or an apartment?

Find the right place for the Christmas tree, it can be in one of the corners in your living room. Decorate both your coffee table and dining table and hang stockings on your children’s beds as it’s a great way of adding a Christmas touch to your home.

What do you personally do to decorate your home for the season?

I personally love decorating my Christmas tree. It’s a tradition every year that me and my family all help to decorate the tree – it really does get us in the festive spirit.

Where are you spending Christmas this year?

We are spending Christmas in Amman, Jordan this year with our entire family.

Our latest editorial shoot with a legendary watch brand marks their legacy and style as they strive to climb back to the top spot among the watch enthusiasts.

Go on a journey land, sea and air with Breitling’s key watch models, suited to any occasion or lifestyle.

Alicia wears: SUPEROCEAN HÉRITAGE II CHRONOGRAPH 44, BREITLING

Dress, Missoni at Robinsons

Cheyenne wears: SUPEROCEAN HÉRITAGE II B20 AUTOMATIC 46, BREITLING

T-shirt and trousers, Hugo Boss

LEFT IMAGE:

Alicia wears: NAVITIMER 1 AUTOMATIC 38, BREITLING

Top, Max Mara

RIGHT IMAGE:

Cheyenne wears: SUPEROCEAN HÉRITAGE II B20 AUTOMATIC 46, BREITLING

Shirt and shorts, Hugo Boss, Sunglasses, Cartier

Alicia wears: NAVITIMER 1 AUTOMATIC 38, BREITLING

Dress and polo neck, Max Maxa

Cheyenne wears: NAVITIMER 8 B01 CHRONOGRAPH 43, BREITLING

Polo shirt and jeans, Paul Smith

LEFT IMAGE:

Alicia wears: NAVITIMER 1 AUTOMATIC 38, BREITLING

RIGHT IMAGE:

Alicia wears: SUPEROCEAN HÉRITAGE II CHRONOGRAPH 44, BREITLING

Dress, Missoni at Robinsons

Alicia wears: NAVITIMER 1 AUTOMATIC 38, BREITLING

Dress, Etro

Cheyenne wears: NAVITIMER 8 B35 AUTOMATIC UNITIME 43, BREITLING

Shirt, Salvatore Ferragamo, Trousers, Hackett

LEFT IMAGE:

Cheyenne wears PREMIER CHRONOGRAPH 42, BREITLING

Blazer, Lardini at Robinsons, White shirt, Dunhill

RIGHT IMAGE:

Alicia wears: PREMIER AUTOMATIC 40, BREITLING

Red dress, Lee Matthews at Matches Fashion

Cheyenne wears: PREMIER B01 CHRONOGRAPH 42, BREITLING

Blazer, Lardini at Robinsons, White shirt, Dunhill

Fashion Director: Lindsay Judge

Photographer: Ziga Mihelcic

Hair and make-up: Emma Gambino

Models: Alicia and Cheyenne at Wilhelmina Dubai

Location: Sweden Beach Palace, Heart of Europe, Dubai

CEO of Breitling Georges Kern is rolling out his vision to take the watchmaker forward. Here he talks about the changes he has made since joining and what we can expect for the future of the brand.

Over the past year Swiss watchmaker Breitling has been undergoing a brand refresh. Under the guidance of CEO Georges Kern, Breitling has been on a mission to update its image, accelerate the product range and re-identify itself with the customer. Originally known for its pilot and aviation watches Breitling has been expanding to other sectors, but ensuring to keep the original identity of the brand, in a unique way. Since taking on the role of CEO just over twelve months ago Kern, who is known for his fresh and forward thinking way of working, has been extremely busy. Developing new products including the Navitimer 8 which launched last year, as well as the new Premier line which was unveiled just last month.

He has launched Breitling in China – a previously untouched market, as well as rebranded all existing retail spaces and opened new boutiques throughout the world. Kern was the visionary behind the latest Cinema Squad advertising campaign and developed the #Squadonamission concept – creating teams of influential individuals to fit each pillar of the brand. The Cinema Squad featuring Brad Pitt, Daniel Wu, Adam Driver and Charlize Theron is the latest to debut. Kern has a strong vision in mind for the brand and has being working hard to bring that to life, being involved in every aspect of the development.

On the occasion of our meeting with Georges Kern, he had travelled to Dubai – the final leg of his world tour – to open a new Breitling boutique in the Dubai Mall Fashion Avenue extension. The recently designed flagship store was created in Kern’s vision and takes on a loft apartment concept – incorporating the key pillars of Breitling – land, sea and air – and creating a welcoming atmosphere for the customer.  His new outlook sees Breitling becoming a more inclusive brand, rather than striving for the exclusivity that many luxury watchmakers are looking for. Kern sees this as a misconception and doesn’t want to limit the Breitling customer to any particular client – but instead wants to be inviting and welcoming to both existing and potential new customers. With this concept in mind we sat down to discuss the roll out of his vision and his plans for the future of the brand.

Today we’re here for the opening of the Dubai store, we notice a fresh feel and a cool look for the boutique, why did you decide to go in this direction of design?

The boutique reflects the new image of the brand. I think it is a huge mistake when luxury brands talk about exclusivity within their stores, I don’t think we should be exclusive, we should be inclusive and welcoming. I don’t think being exclusive is something that makes sense in current society – a time that has become more and more global and where everyone listens to the same music and has the same dreams. Exclusivity for me in the luxury industry means limited. I believe everything should be inclusive and we want to be a brand that welcomes everybody. In terms of the design of the store we never thought about it being masculine or feminine, we thought about cool or uncool. And that is what we have done with the loft apartment feel. It’s welcoming and cool. Of course it could be considered masculine but it is just as inviting to women.

Breitling wants to be associated with activities that people actually do and therefore be inclusive in everything we’re doing. You don’t actually drive a Formula 1 car for example, so we want to be associated with outdoor, relaxed sports and activities that people can actually relate to.

You’ve been on a global tour revealing what has been achieved for Breitling in the last year and also launching the Premier collection. How has this line been received across the cities and tell us how it came to life?

It’s been very good. I think it’s much easier for this collection than when we launched the Navitimer 8, because you have the context. You have the advertising campaign and the boutiques, everything comes together now. The Navitimer 8 was an ice breaker in a way, so it’s much easier for the Premier collection. It is even more complimentary to the range because it’s a totally new segment. Actually, I say it’s a new segment, we had it in the in the fourties so we’re going back to what we always had. It’s not an elegant watch it is an elegant sports watch. The sell-out figures are phenomenal since we started shipping it a couple of months ago .

What about the reaction in China – you recently launched there as a new market for Breitling?

It was very good. There is one particular picture where we [Georges Kern, Brad Pitt, Daniel Wu and Peter Lindberg] are taking a selfie and it went viral. This picture was used by everybody. And the fact the we have launched with Alibaba was the big bang that we needed. I think we can move in China much quicker than ten or fifteen years ago; because of digital, because the market is transparent and people know what’s going on in the US and Europe. Today you can reach out to people in a much quicker way.

2018 Breitling Gala Night Beijing Gala Dinner Breitling Squad on Stage. From left to right, Peter Lindbergh, Georges Kern, Brad Pitt, and Daniel Wu

The brand has had a recent facelift after many years of being perceived as rugged and daring. How challenging was it to keep the DNA of the brand yet venture into new offerings that will still be appealing to the existing Breitling customer?

I think they [the existing Breitling customers] feel good in this environment. It’s cool and different, but honestly it’s very much aviation just in a different way. The beauty of this concept and the concept of the advertising campaign is that you can easily plug in the former Breitling. I see this in the collectors clubs. I’m active in the three major Breitling collectors clubs online and they all love it. This is my biggest sounding board of customers and where I get lots of input from and what I’m hearing is that they love it. It’s not shocking, it’s just right.

In your communication you’re telling stories through the Squad concept you are using, to what extent do you think storytelling is still relevant today?

It’s fundamental. Today you buy emotions. I think all the technical aspects and quality aspects are a given and must be at that price point. I don’t think we would ever buy Chanel or Hermès simply because of the quality of the leather – this should be a given, and if it’s not then the brand has a fundamental problem. So it’s the same with watches. Above that you buy an image and a style and you want to identify with that specific brand. This is why we need storytelling; to create emotions. This is why we have our squads on a mission with Kelly Slater, Sally Fitzgibbons or Stefanie Gilmore wearing our waterproof watches. Or our partnership with Bentley, one of the most sophisticated automotive brands. It’s very much a bottom up storytelling approach than a top down brand approach. It’s more of a product driven approach. Everybody knows the brand. What they need to know now are the product lines and this is why we are now working so hard to build the stories.

Premier B01 Chronograph 42 with silver dial and black alligator leather strap

Why did you decide to develop the Squads rather than choosing one person to represent the brand and to what extent is it more powerful to deliver a message when you have a group?

For me there were two fundamental elements. First of all how do we differentiate? If you look at other brands you always have one person in the advertising campaign, but if you really go out and ask people who is associated with which brand, people will not know. I think the squad is very different. Coming from aviation and squadron flying it makes sense for us to have this squad concept. I believe in the idea of teams more than individuals and I think the campaign is infinite – three cooks can be a squad or three watchmakers can be a squad, you can have one woman and two men, two women and one man, you can have local squads – it really is infinite and that’s the beauty of the concept. It is totally different from what the others are doing and of course has that link to team spirit. Our hashtag #Squadonamission is becoming really well known and has become part of our corporate identity.

Breitling Boutique – The Dubai Mall

How was it working with the Cinema Squad stars?

First of all I was surprised how quickly Brad Pitt agreed on the concept. He’s being wearing Breitling for 15 years, he’s a pilot and he’s had many Breitling watches in his life, so he knew the brand. Secondly he loved the idea of a squad where he’s not the centre of attention. And then with Peter Lindbergh, they have been working together for a long time. I think he loved the diversity of the squads from the explorer to surfers etc. I met Brad for the first time in LA during the campaign shoot and then in China where he was fabulous. He was nice, helpful, engaging with people, very professional. He stayed late during the night and I think he felt at ease in the whole environment. He likes what we’re doing.

And what about Charlize Theron?

She is a very interesting, amazing and extemely talented woman. She won an Oscar, she’s a fabulous actress, she’s super professional and obviously beautiful and it’s a pleasure working with her.

Left to Right – Mohammed Abdulmagied Seddiqi, Mohammed Abdul Hamied Seddiqi, Georges Kern, Osama Ibrahim Seddiqi.jpg

Peter Lindbergh is obviously very fond of you and he summed up in a previous conversation that the brand to him is “Georges”. What is your take on the partnership with Peter and why did you choose him to bring the Squads to life?

This is my third time working with Peter. In my previous life I had two big projects with him, beautiful projects. We’ve always worked extremely well together. I call him and we talk and I explain to him my fundamental idea. And then I let him work because I know that he understands what I want. So I explained the Squad idea and that we wanted to have that feeling of action in a relaxed way. We did one elegant style shoot for China because they are more formal, and a more relaxed style for the rest of the world. It was a huge production, there were 30 or 40 people on the set in LA it was crazy. But it’s very easy, I know him, he shares the pictures, we talk about it. Of course he knows that I’m influencing the brand. I have a vision, I know what I want and I hope that we will see everything falling into place. The visuals, the boutique and the products are all fitting together. This is something that was in my head and you have to be confident, that once everything is done it works, and it does work and I guess this is why he [Peter] said that.

What is the challenge that Breitling faces today?

Speed. We have the concept which I think works and is very beautiful. Now I know that for physical reasons it will take probably 24 months to really roll out. And this is annoying because you want everything immediately implemented which is physically impossible. It’s been a process of a couple of months, we only took over only a year ago so it has been super quick, but still we are in an industry where things don’t happen quickly. When creating a watch you need machinery, prototypes etc. – it takes time. To build a boutique you have to have the design, the location, you have to build it – it all takes time. And that’s the point, our biggest challenge is to implement all of this as quickly as possible.

You recently created the Superocean watch with Kelly Slater and his brand Outerknown. How committed is Breitling to sustainability and is this something we can expect to see more of in the future?

Sure. There are two aspects of it, the first is that as a corporation I always believe that everybody should do the maximum he or she can do in their sphere of influence. If we at Breitling, which is a small company compared to the big players, can at least raise awareness and educate people I think that’s a great success. The partnership with Kelly Slater reflects how I see the relationship with our celebrities or partners. We want to do relevant activities with them. I recently did a cycling race with our triathlon squad and we support a charity called Qhubeka in South Africa that buys bicycles for children who sometimes have to walk for two hours to get to school. Some of them have to wake up at 4 o’clock in the morning (especially the girls because they have to clean the house etc.) and then they end up dropping out of school because it’s too much for them. This project is to bring one million more people into the schools and one million more educated people can change a country, all because of a bicycle that will get them to school in twenty minutes instead of two hours. So it’s a very simple charity but it’s very efficient and this is an example of what we can and want to do.

With Kelly, because of his company and because he’s so well-known with millions of followers, we can contribute through implementing the innovative material of the econyl strap to bring this message  across and raise awareness and this is what we want to do more of. We want to be involved with our squads and support what they are working on. So it’s not just advertising.

Breitling Triathlon Squad visited one of Qhubeka’s projects and were able to experience firsthand the impact of the charity’s work (Breitling CEO Georges Kern).

You mentioned the Coronation Double Century triathlon race in South Africa with the Breitling triathlon Squad – how was that experience and what did it add to you as a person?

I decided to do it because I’ve never cycled 210km before. It was one of the most beautiful races I’ve ever done and it was tough because I had just landed from China. I had to fly from Beijing to South Africa which was around twenty hours and then straight on the bike. But the guys pushed me up some of the hills so I achieved it with the help of my friends. I think I posted a picture when I was pushed by Vincenzo Nibali and Jan Frodeno. Vincenzo won Tour de France and Vuelta a España. Jan Frodeno is a gold medallist and won Iron Man twice – I don’t think there’s any man in the world who was pushed by these two guys of that level ever in history! I had cramps for 10 kilometres and they pushed me to the station where I could get a massage and eat. Otherwise I would have had to give up.

Breitling Triathlon Squad and Friends rode in support of Qhubeka at the Coronation Double Century in South Africa.

Obviously all the eyes of the industry are on you and the solid changes you have made, it is said that any product you touch turns literally into gold. In your opinion what are the prerequisites in creating a product or object of desire?

I think at Breitling we have lots of experience. We have a new team – I probably have one person from every watch brand. So we have a very senior, experienced team. The second point is that we have a phenomenal spirit – Breitling has this feeling that we are in a huge start-up company and people are happy and enthusiastic. For instance we have a picture of the team after our China event and everybody is happy because we are successful, we have a great project, we have a quick decision process, experience and this huge start-up feeling. We have supportive investors with CVC Capital Partners and most of the management are shareholders of the company which amplifies the whole feeling. So experience, spirit and I think lots of courage and imagination. Nobody is doing what we’re doing and this combination is working and will continue to work.

What can you tell us about what you are doing with the digital platforms?

We are definitely reaching out to a new customer base. The interesting thing is that the new products introduced this year are sold much more online than the previous lines are. We are rebranding and when we do it with online we reach people who were never Breitling customers before. Since then we have introduced two new product lines. This is what our customers  are in contact with and what we have advertised. So this is what they are seeing and what they want to buy. Online is helping us to reach out to a new, younger customer base.

The use of the right platforms is a very controversial topic, especially when it comes to influencers. What’s your take on using influencers and what is the correct criteria in choosing them?

The world is changing and influencers have, as the name suggests; influence. They post and they have followers and their communities etc. As long as it stays authentic and credible and is not totally commercialised, I think it’s a valid additional channel. You will see, like with traditional press – the good ones will get better and the superficial ones will lose traction. Which is normal. But it’s part of it because we are in a social media world where some of these influencers have hundreds and thousands of followers. But they have to be careful that they remain authentic, real and credible because everything is transparent and consumers are not stupid.

What is something you still aim to achieve at Breitling?

Be more successful and reach out to more people and get my message across. I think it’s a super-cool brand and I think all the elements come together very well. When people come to the boutique they will understand the brand and I am convinced that Breitling can be one of the biggest brands in the world – as we are already in the western world. If we have the same success in countries which we are now starting to be in like China, it will be phenomenal.

You are very interactive on your Instagram account that has over 32,000 followers. What or who are the pages that you like to look at on a daily basis?

I obviously follow all the guys we work with. I follow cars and some fashion brands, because this is inspiration to me. We did a couple of products that corresponded to what I’ve seen in the car industry in terms of colour combinations and materials. I tell my team; “travel the world with open eyes”. I look at all the boutiques and all the developments and it’s not tiring, I’m interested. It’s not a burden – I love it! And this is why I love this mall so much because you see the latest developments with all of these flagship stores that are the best of the best. If you walk through Fashion Avenue you see the latest of the latest which is amazing. I haven’t seen anything comparable anywhere in the world – not even in Shanghai. This is probably the best mall I’ve ever seen.

What is the motto you live by?

Enjoy the moment.

What book are you currently reading?

You will laugh but I’m actually reading the book of Jan Frodeno who is one of triathletes in our squad. He just published a book – he’s a very young man so it’s not a biography but it’s about how he started his career and I’m on the second chapter. When he came to ride with me in South Africa I knew that he was quite an amazing guy. I generally like to read biographies.

What do you say no to?

Many things! The older you get, the more you say no. Because you don’t have to make compromises. You cannot be overloaded with emails and meetings, so I say no to a lot of things. I say no to many meetings because I want to breathe. When you run a company and are in a way so visible people suck you up. I try to only do stuff I want to do.

Baselworld 2019 is approaching, what can we expect to see from Breitling?

A lot. We have phenomenal novelties. Inspired by traditional product lines. It will be great. We have more coming in the sports segment.

We know there are three thematic worlds of air, land and sea, what can you tell me about the offering on the professional line?

We are working on new novelties within that segment. Not for Baselworld, but for later in the year.

How would you describe Breitling in one word?

Give me two – Cool and successful

Interview by Lindsay Judge

All portrait images and video: © Ausra Osi

There is no denying Ingie Chalhoub has come to be one of the most powerful women in the Arab world. Not only does she own her own fashion label; INGIE Paris, she also heads up the Etoile Group which she founded and now serves as President and Managing Director.

Born to Lebanese parents in Egypt, Chalhoub grew up with a great love for fashion and all things creative. After graduating from university she went into business with her mother opening the first Chanel boutique in Kuwait in 1983. Chanel is still one of the many brands under the Etoile Group’s portfolio that now also includes Valentino, Tod’s and Ralph Lauren amongst others.

Over the years, the group has focused on nurturing partnerships with international luxury brands to deliver the ultimate shopping experience to the Arab clientele. Today with over 500 employees and more than 80 luxury brands in its catalogue, the Etoile Group is one of the leading companies in the region. Chalhoub has been described as one of the most “powerful Arab women” in the region, a “creative visionary” and “leading entrepreneur”. There is no denying the power and influence she has in the fashion industry in the region and also across Europe.

Earlier this year, Ingie, along with her husband Patrick Chalhoub, owner of the Chalhoub group, were awarded the prestigious Chevalier de la Légion d’Honneur – the highest civilian merit awarded in France. The award was to commemorate their commitment to promoting the French luxury industry in the Middle East. France is a country that is very close to Ingie’s heart as it is the home of her ready-to-wear brand INGIE Paris. Bringing together the two cultures of the Middle East and Europe, the label fills a unique gap in the market and allows Chalhoub to express that creative flair she has had since she was a child.

After waiting a long time for the right moment, INGIE Paris opened its first UAE store in the Dubai Mall Fashion Avenue extension earlier this year. In a rare moment of free time, Ingie talks to A&E on her legacy, the industry today and her plans for the future.

What can you tell us about the collections we see in store today?

Today you see the FW18 collection which is inspired by the leaves and colours of fall. Leaves were something that I wanted to replicate into different materials. The first outfit I was wearing today featured a leaf print that I created in a satin crepe and the whole idea was to link the theme of fall together in the materials, the prints and embroideries. You will see this throughout the collection.

What can you tell us about how INGIE Paris has evolved?

I like to challenge myself to find new ideas and become more feminine and appeal to international women. I want my pieces to become more couture looking with attention to the little details that make a difference.

You split your time between the UAE and Paris how does that impact your designs?

This is what makes my designs unique. I am living between two cultures and you can see this in the designs and also in my life. My atelier is in Paris where I have to go once a month. If I do not go my team comes here with the designs and we try everything here. I have to go as much as I can so that I can be involved in the process but it does become very hectic sometimes, especially when it’s close to fashion week. Sometimes I have to spend a lot of time in Paris to make sure everything is on track. Not only organising the show itself but ensuring that the whole story is replicated into the show. I have to make sure every single detail is right. The pieces go from one atelier to another so it is not easy.

How involved are you in the whole process?

I am involved from A to Z in every single aspect. It’s very hard for me not to get involved because this is my brand and my baby. It is representing the image that I would like to project.

Who is the INGIE Paris woman?

When the INGIE Paris woman walks into a room she wants to make a difference. She is an international woman who travels all over the world and wants something to wear from day to night that is multi-faceted. She is a businesswoman who is also creative and an artist. She is feminine and glamorous, modern and contemporary. She is a trendy person but she loves art. She is passionate and would like everything to look perfect and she cares about her signature.

Your pieces are very flattering on the body…

I have studied the body structure of a woman as well as skin tones and what looks good on the body – it is a real science. When you look at a woman you want to emphasise her beauty. I believe every woman has beauty inside and she just has to be confident. So it is my job to work out how to do that. The quality of the garments and production is also very important, things need to be done in the proper way.

Ingie FW18

How important is the retail environment in today’s industry?

I think retail is most important because it is an experience. It is where you can be taken care of and be pampered while at the same time you can touch the clothes. I’m a very sensual woman so I really like to touch. When I am selecting fabrics I touch everything. It is something that cannot be replicated by digital or social media. Of course you can cheat on colour or shape but you cannot cheat on how something feels.

What about runway shows, how important do you think they are in the industry today?

The runway shows are the image that you project. When you see a dress on the runway it is styled in a different way than in the store. You can go crazy and really have something completely different and aspirational. For my latest show I wanted the flowers that are on my dresses and in my embroideries to be replicated on the walls of the show. It was magnificent. Throughout the whole space you could smell the flowers. So the point I’m making is that the show is about the smell, the touch, seeing the fabrics move, you won’t get all this with social media. You won’t feel the emotions through a phone. At the end of the show we were all in tears because we were so happy. Living that moment through social media will never be the same as living it by really being there. This is why I would like more people to spend time living the moment.

What are your feelings on social media?

It is a very important tool if it is used properly. I believe there are a lot of advantages to it but there are a lot of disadvantages too. The limitation of social media, as I was saying before is that you don’t get to experience the touch and feel the emotion in the same way as you do in real life. Of course the big advantage is being able to access a huge quantity of people and to become known very quickly, but at the same time you have to target your audience and know how to be careful about it. You can tease them but if you give away too much then what more do they have to discover when they come to the store? I want to leave an element of surprise.

Why was it important for you to open this store in The Dubai Mall Fashion Avenue Extension?

The new extension of Dubai Mall was such an exciting project. I was waiting for the proper location before opening a store in Dubai and as you know I have waited for a long time. That was really because I wanted to make sure that I got the right location. The Avenue is so stunning it’s such a good feeling to be here.

What does the UAE mean to you?

One of my sons was born here so it really is a second home for me. I love the positive vibe, the people and their warmth. I love the climate – I hate the cold!

 

Who or what inspires you?

Honestly everything inspires me. A simple leaf or sunset. Wherever I go I feel like I’m inspired by so many things. I love watching people and how they dress up. Even the way they wear my own designs. Recently I was at a birthday party and I saw someone I didn’t know wearing one of my designs. I told her I was the designer of her dress and she was amazed. I loved how she was wearing it and this is something I love to see because often they wear it in a different way to how I would have imagined. This can be in the way they accessorise it or their style. This lady was so beautiful and the metallic dress she was wearing was so amazing on her. I love to see real people in my designs and that is inspiring.

How has your mother influenced your career and life?

My mother was an amazing woman. She was beautiful and she had an aura around her. She looked very much like Elizabeth Taylor who she loved. She was always elegant, always wearing top couture lines from morning to evening. Everything was perfect – her make-up, her hair, her styling, her jewellery. I was always looking at my mother’s style and she was very happy to have curves.

She gave me a lot of freedom and she taught me a lot of artistic ways. She encouraged me because she knew that I had an artistic flair. When I was eight years old I was stuck at home with an illness and I started spending time with my Barbies and making them clothes.

When I started to grow up she taught me a lot of techniques including how to sew and stitch. I also used to do pottery and painting. I was inspired by Leonardo Da Vinci when I went to Italy. So I have always been very artistic.

Everything related to arts I would do with my mother – visiting museums, galleries etc. When I graduated all I wanted was to work in fashion and we opened our first store together. My mother introduced me to fashion when I was a student. She would take me to exhibitions and would tell me; “try it, because on you it’s not the same as on the model. You have to feel it.” What she told me was very true – if you see something on a model and don’t try it yourself you’ll never understand how something fits.

What would be your advice to aspiring entrepreneurs?

People think that it’s easy and they tend to underestimate the work and time that is spent on it. Once you launch something you have to be ready to sacrifice a lot of things and put in a lot of time and effort. Of course it’s a long process. People tend to think that because of social media things will come quicker and more easily – yes they may, but they may not. So what I would really recommend is to be persistent and to make sure that even if you have challenges or difficulties in the beginning, don’t give up. Be ready for the fight.

How do you think the role of successful women in today’s society is changing especially in this region?

The change is tremendous. I’m very proud to see how many women are changing. His Highness is really pushing women forward and it is amazing. I am very proud of it and very happy because it is going where it should go. Doors are being opened for a lot of women and the country is embracing change and modernity. Dubai is setting an example to the rest of the region and to the whole world.

What is the motto you live your life by?

My motto is to get the beauty of women from the inside out. Making sure they have self-confidence and an aura around them that makes people turn their heads when they walk into a room.

What in your opinion are the secrets to success?

I think to achieve success, first of all you have to have a vision. Set your goal and persevere. Hard work is a necessity. You have to really know the amount of work and sacrifice behind it and be ready for the challenges and setbacks. Use those setbacks to bounce back.

What is one thing at INGIE Paris that you still want to achieve?

My dream is to have INGIE Paris go to the next level of becoming an internationally known brand sitting next to the top fashion houses in the world and keeping its unique heritage. That is my real goal.

AS WE CELEBRATE UAE NATIONAL DAY WE LOOK TO SOME OF THE DESIGNERS WHO SET UP THEIR BRANDS AND BUSINESSES IN THE COUNTRY WHERE THE SKY IS NOT THE LIMIT.

Dress, Azzalia at Thouqi.com

Shoes, Sergio Rossi Dubai Exclusive Collection

Necklace MKS Jewellery at Bloomingdale’s Dubai

Cape, trousers and turban, Taller Marmo, Boots, Sergio Rossi, Ring, Bil Arabi at Bloomingdale’s Dubai

LEFT IMAGE:

Shirt dress, Layeur at The Modist, Shoes, Sergio Rossi, Earrings, MKS Jewellery at Bloomingdale’s Dubai

RIGHT IMAGE:

Dress, Arwa Banawi

Dress, Noora Hefzi

Earrings: MKS Jewellery at Bloomingdale’s Dubai

Dress, Madiyah Al Sharqi, Earrings, Bil Arabi at Bloomingdale’s Dubai

Shoes, Sergio Rossi Dubai Exclusive Collection

LEFT IMAGE:

Blazer and trousers, Reemami, Shoes, Sergio Rossi Dubai Exclusive Collection, Necklace and earrings,MKS Jewellery

RIGHT IMAGE:

Shirt, shorts and turban, Kage

Dress, YNM

Shoes, Sergio Rossi Dubai Exclusive Collection

LEFT IMAGE:

Dress, Endemage, Earrings, Bil Arabi

RIGHT IMAGE:

Dress and Abaya: Twisted Roots, Shoes, Sergio Rossi, Dubai Exclusive Collection

Cape and trousers, Lama Jouni

Styling and Direction: Lindsay Judge and Charline Deek

Photographer: Ausra Osi

Hair and make-up: Emma Gambino

Model: Mia at Wilhemina Dubai

Location: Al Seef, Dubai

THE MODERN WOMAN’S COMBINATION OF STRENGTH AND DELICACY SERVED AS THE MAIN INSPIRATION, WITH SARTORIAL SHAPES AND PRECISE SILHOUETTES FOR FENDI’S 2019 RESORT COLLECTION.

Pink silk print dress with white broderie anglaise collar

By Fendi

LEFT IMAGE: Orange organza overcoat with broderie collar, Fendi Flip Regular

RIGHT IMAGE: Orange and Aquamarine ‘Allover FF’ shirt, Orange and Aquamarine ‘Allover FF’ pleated A-line skirt, Silver Cutwalk Boots

All Fendi

LEFT IMAGE: Blue silk print dress with pleated skirt, Silver Cutwalk Boots

RIGHT IMAGE: Laser cut multicolour overcoat

All Fendi

LEFT IMAGE: Orange and Aquamarine, ‘Allover FF’ shirt, Orange and Aquamarine, ‘Allover FF’ pleated A-line skirt

RIGHT IMAGE: Pink double-breasted overcoat with mink cuff, Silver Cutwalk boots

All Fendi

Orange organza overcoat with broderie collar, Fendi Flip Regular, Black nappa leather court shoes

All Fendi

Fashion Director: Eliza Scarborough

Photographer: Jenny Brough

Hair and Make-Up: Scarlett Burton

Model: Silke at The Hive Management

Videographer: Curt Taylor

AS YOU BEGIN TO PREPARE YOUR HOME FOR THE FESTIVE SEASON, WE TALK TO JOHAN KRIEL-JONES, CONCEPT MANAGER AT MARINA HOME INTERIORS FOR TIPS AND TRICKS ON HOW TO DECORATE AND DRESS YOUR HOME TO PERFECTION.

What are the rules you live by for decorating your home for the festive period?

First and foremost, you must always have fun. It’s the time of year when families are reunited and the year-end is celebrated. In my own home we start with the tree, this year we are decorating a contemporary Lushy White tree. We carry the theme of festive across our entire home, from the front door pine cone wreath to scented candles in coloured glass votives. Our little secret is to incorporate new beautiful decorations with some of the vintage pieces we’ve collected over the years.

What festive trends can we expect to see this year?

There are so many beautiful festive trends this year, it’s difficult to choose only one. Woodland Dreams must be the one trend that resonated with us the most. This contemporary trend; infuses snow frosted decor with rich dark tones, like navy blue, rich taupe, and gloss finished Lapis Lazuli pieces. It is easy to incorporate traditional pieces with this trend yet keeping it updated by using the new tones available in so many different decorations.

What are you tips for dressing a Christmas table?

Start by picking a theme for your table. Having a defined colour scheme not only makes the table look extra special but adds a polished look. If you’re not sure what style to go for, classic red, green or gold always adds a traditional look, while frosty silver and white looks cool crisp and fresh. Ensure your table is the centre of attention with a striking centrepiece. For a quick and easy touch, a festive wreath can sit in the centre of the table filled with candles. Pick sturdy pillar candles in varying sizes on a heatproof mat. Complete the centrepiece with short “conversation starting” decorative elements, that are fun and quirky.

What is the secret to ensuring your home doesn’t look too cluttered over the festive season?

As long as there are key focal points in your home then I believe there is never “too much” at Christmas. If you have a small space then choose a tree that is correct in scale and height. Style the tree to ensure it’s the focal point of your room. You can complement the rest of the room then by going sparingly elsewhere with decorations.

A fake tree or a real tree?

Green trees are a real Christmas staple and you can do whatever you want to them, making them as traditional or modern as you’d like. I love a real Christmas tree – the texture, smell, and fact that their shape is not always perfect is just beautiful. That said, faux is having a real moment and the quality of our faux trees are amazing. Living in our desert climate faux trees is the way to go, they are easy to install and pack away again. The variety and finish of faux trees are unbelievable and have undoubtedly become my tree of choice. And they look fab!

What tips do you have for the minimalist decorator?

When creating a minimalist Christmas setting, focus on only the essentials. I adore our traditional green Christmas trees, featuring simple white lights and a few snowflakes. While I love grand, elaborate trees as much as the next person, this look is calming and inviting without all the extra trimming. I especially like it paired with a simple evergreen wreath and a cosy faux fur throw, giving your living room a distinctly contemporary feel.

DISCOVER THE EXQUISITE PIECES FROM DIOR’S JEWELLERY AND HOROLOGY COLLECTIONS.

“Rose Dior Bagatelle” Rings, “Rose Dior Bagatelle” Earrings. By Dior Fine Jewellery

La D de Dior Precieuse. By Dior Timepieces

“Diorama Precieuse” Rings, “Diorama Precieuse” Earrings. By Dior Fine Jewellery

“Diorette” Necklace. By Dior Fine Jewellery

“Precieuses” Rings. By Dior Fine Jewellery

Rose des Vents Necklace. By Dior Fine Jewellery

La Mini D de Dior Satine Lapis Lazuli, La Mini D de Dior Satine Malachite. By Dior Timepieces

“Archi Dior” Rings. By Dior Fine Jewellery

La Mini D de Dior Satine. By Dior Timepieces

“Bois de Roses” Ring, “Rose Dior Bagatelle” Ring, “Rose Dior Bagatelle” Necklace. By Dior Fine Jewellery

PHOTOGRAPHER: THOMAS LOHR

Valentino are launching a Holiday bag to spread festive cheer this season. A Limited edition Valentino Garavani Rockstud Spike bag has been created featuring a poem by award-winning poet Yrsa Daley-Ward. The poem will be printed on the inside of the bag.

Available in a striking red, the bag makes the perfect festive gift with a unique personal touch. A limited edition number of the bags are available now in Valentino stores.

AS GUERLAIN CELEBRATES A MILESTONE ANNIVERSARY, WE REFLECT ON ITS PAST, PRESENT AND FUTURE.

There are few houses that reach an anniversary as great as almost two centuries, but this year fragrance and cosmetics brand Guerlain does just that as it celebrates 190 years.

A momentous milestone, the occasion marks almost two hundred years of creation for the French house. A family brand that has been passed from generation to generation Guerlain has an immensely strong family heritage that perhaps is what makes it as successful as it is. With over 1,100 fragrances created to date, as well as ongoing make-up and skincare offerings, Guerlain is one of the most recognised luxury beauty houses in the world today.

Archive image from the Boutique at 68 Champs-Elysées

Founded in 1828 by French perfumer Pierre-François Pascal Guerlain, Guerlain is one of the oldest fragrance houses in the world. The first Guerlain store opened on Rue de Rivoli in Paris and as the founder and first perfumer of the house, Pierre-François composed and manufactured custom-made fragrances with the help of his two sons, Aimé and Gabriel. At this time the French perfumer had no idea of the success that was to come.

In 1840 Guerlain opened a flagship store, on the prestigious rue de la Paix in Paris. This firmly made its mark on the Parisian fashion scene and allowed the house to reach a larger clientele. In 1853 Guerlain reached new heights with the creation of Eau de Cologne Impériale for French Emperor Napoleon III and his Spanish-French wife Empress Eugénie. This perfume earned Pierre-François the prestigious title of being His Majesty’s Official Perfumer. After this Guerlain continued to attract many high-society clients including Queen Victoria and Queen Isabella II of Spain. Thanks to the high quality and exclusiveness of its fragrances Guerlain could offer clients something unique with a truly personal service.

Jicky poster, 1935

With the death of Pierre-François in 1864, the house was left to his sons Aimé Guerlain and Gabriel Guerlain. The roles of perfumer and manager were divided between the two brothers, with Gabriel managing and further expanding the house, and Aimé becoming the master perfumer. This new generation went on to revolutionise the industry in 1889 by creating the first fragrance combining natural and synthetic ingredients. Named Jicky, the scent was the first described as a “parfum” and marked a moment in history allowing new fragrances to be created thanks to the use of synthetic ingredients. Aimé was also the creator of many classic compositions, including Fleur d’Italie in 1884, Rococo in 1887 and Eau de Cologne du Coq in 1894.

Empress Eugenie

THE BEE BOTTLE

 

“IN 190 YEARS, GUERLAIN HAS TAKEN ROOT IN OUR MEMORIES AND SPREAD ITS WINGS ALL AROUND THE WORLD.”

Laurent Boillot, CEO of Guerlain since 2007.

 

Continuing the family tradition the reigns of Guerlain were handed down to Jacques and Pierre Guerlain; the sons of Gabriel. This third generation saw some of Guerlain’s most iconic perfumes. With Jacques Guerlain as the master perfumer he developed fragrances including Mouchoir de Monsieur, Après L’Ondée, Mitsouko, and Shalimar (Guerlain’s flagship fragrance). Once again the role of master perfumer was passed through generations with Jacque’s grandson Jean-Paul Guerlain taking over as the last family master perfumer. In 1994 the Guerlain family sold the house to LVMH. Jean-Paul Guerlain worked alongside other perfumers from 1994 who were brought in to support the brand. Jean-Paul Guerlain retired in 2002, but continued to serve as advisor to his successor until 2010.

In 2008 Thierry Wasser was named the in-house perfumer. The first perfumer not to come from the Guerlain family, Wasser was Swiss born and worked closely with Artistic Director Sylvaine Delacourte to further Guerlain’s cosmetics offering as well as fragrance.

For Guerlain, the bottles and cases have always been a key part of the brand’s aesthetic. Above all they are objects of art, inspiring craftsmen to achieve the wildest technical feats. The Shalimar bottle even obtained first prize at the International Exhibition of Decorative Arts in 1925 while many other fragrance bottles and cosmetic packaging’s have become unique icons for the brand.

THE ICONS

Jicky (1889)

Jicky was a ground-breaking fragrance when it was created by Aimé Guerlain in 1889. The fragrance was the first to use both synthetic and natural ingredients in its recipe. The quadrilobé bottle evokes an alchemist’s bottle and owes its name to its stopper carved from a solid block to obtain a four-lobed shape.

Eau de Cologne Impériale (1853)

Pierre-François-Pascal Guerlain composed Eau de Cologne Impériale for Her Majesty Empress Eugénie, wife of Napoleon III. It came in a bottle decorated with a myriad of bees hand-gilded with fine gold. Charmed by this creation, the Empress bestowed upon him the coveted title of Parfumeur Breveté de Sa Majesté, Royal Perfumer.

Crème à la Fraise (1840)

One of the first avant-garde skincare products, Crème à la Fraise. Presented in a white porcelain jar the cream was designed to moisturize and freshen the face. The pot was decorated with the Guerlain emblem of the “woman with flags”.

Ne M’oubliez Pas (1870)

In 1870 Guerlain created its first lipstick, an original invention consisting of a stick housed in its own tube. The idea came to Pierre François Pascal from a cousin of his that made candles. The gracious object was made using scented pink candle wax. Presented in a rechargeable case with a retracting mechanism, Ne M’oubliez Pas became the first modern lipstick in history. This then became the inspiration for the fragrance of the same name that was released by the house in 2016.

Mitsouko (1919)

One of the few fragrances that has remained available since its first introduction in 1919. Mitsouko was created by Jacques Guerlain. Its name is derived from the French translation of a Japanese female person named Mitsuko.

Shalimar (1925)

Created by Jacques Guerlain, Shalimar was the first oriental fragrance from the brand. Inspired by the love story of Emperor Shah Jahan and his love for Princess Mumtaz Mahal for whom the Taj Mahal was built. The scent was the first of its kind and was considered unique because of the complicated concoction of ingredients. The bottle was the first time Guerlain partnered with baccarat on a fragrance bottle.

Terracotta Powder (1984)

Guerlain’s Terracotta range was created in response to the trend of tanning. Inspired by a trip to the heart of the desert, it captures all the reflections of the sun and lights up the complexion with an instant natural healthy glow. It has become a modern icon of Guerlain’s history.

FLACON TORTUE SOUS CLOCHE

TODAY AND THE FUTURE

To celebrate the 190th anniversary Guerlain has joined forces with Baccarat to create a unique piece. Master Perfumer Thierry Wasser has created a celebratory fragrance that features the house’s bee icon. Guerlain has a decades-long partnership with the fine-crystal glassware manufacturer. Baccarat has worked on designer bottles for fragrances including Quadrilobé and Shalimar. The two houses have shared a passion for beautiful objects and the desire to keep unique know-how alive.

To continue the collaboration Guerlain and Baccarat are releasing carefully crafted pieces in the Exclusives family. Showcased in unique creations such as the Eternal Bee or the rerelease of Guerlain’s iconic bottles, Baccarat crystal magnifies the perfumer’s art. Bespoke Fragrances, a long-standing service provided by Guerlain, are also presented in crystal Quadrilobé bottles.

ABEILLE AILES ARGENT, VOL DE NUIT, GUERLAIN BACCARAT

The celebratory fragrance combines Double Absolute concentration with contemporary top notes of orange, orange blossom and almond with a more traditional Guerlinade in the base notes, featuring benzoin tincture, sandalwood and ylang-ylang. A special edition of the fragrance is encased in The Eternal Bee and is created in a limited number of pieces, all of which are numbered.

THE MAISON BOUCHERON SUPPORTS THIS YEAR’S ABU DHABI ART FAIR AND PRESENTS ITS LATEST HIGH JEWELLERY COLLECTIONS.

This November The Maison Boucheron partnered with the Abu Dhabi Art Fair. For the first time the fair welcomed a French High Jewellery House on the occasion of its 10th anniversary. In keeping with its free spirit, Boucheron highlighted its innovative know-how at this internationally known cultural event which took place from 14th to 17th November.

Boucheron showcased pieces from its latest High Jewellery collections. The Nature Triomphante collection celebrates 160 years of Maison Boucheron. This collection pushes the limits of High Jewellery by using cutting-edge scientific techniques paired with the ancestral expertise of the House’s expert craftsman. The collection is a tribute to the beauty of nature and the free spirit of the Maison.

THE FINEST WOOL THE WORLD HAS EVER KNOWN AT LORO PIANA’S UNIQUE INSTALLATION.

To celebrate its arrival in the region and the opening of its Dubai Mall store, Loro Piana presented a unique installation, dedicated to the world’s most beautiful wool; The Gift of Kings. The installation celebrated the most luxurious wool in the world, as discovered by Loro Piana.

Presented under the patronage of H.H. Sheikha Lateefa bint Maktoum bin Rashid Al Maktoum the installation celebrates the rare Gift of Kings wool, which is used by Loro Piana to produce its luxury pieces. Working directly with breeders in Australia and New Zealand, Loro Piana sources this fine rare wool to ensure the pieces they produce are of the most luxurious quality. The Gift of Kings measures around 12 mircons in diameter and is only available in tiny quantities. A precious and refined selection of the wool is produced each year.

The installation, which was open to the public last month, was held in the sky garden of the Dubai Opera House, with picturesque views underneath the Burj Khalifa – a luxury destination for a luxury fabric. Resembling a dreamy ethereal cloud, the sculptural installation conceals secret chambers that offer visitors a glimpse into the secrets of this rare wool and its journey from raw fibre to woven fabric that is the pride and joy of Loro Piana. “Above all, The Gift of Kings is a declaration of our deep respect for the natural world and the beauty that comes from it – a value that has led us to this collaboration.” Said Fabio d’Angelantonio, CEO of Loro Piana.

The installation, which has been created exclusively for Dubai, celebrates the excellence in the world of wool. To reward the leading woolgrowers, Loro Piana created The Record Bale award. The award is presented to a rare wool that breaks all previous records for finesse, producing a wool of such high quality that is like no other. This exhibition allowed members of the public to experience the wool in its raw state. “Loro Piana is about touching the product, and the exhibition is allowing visitors to touch the wool and experience it first hand.” said d’Angelantonio, The wool was produced in 2014 by Robert and Pamela Sandlant in Australia and measures 10.3 microns in diameter – finer than most cashmere. Each record holder is preserved in its raw wool form until the time a new record is broken. When that happens the wool is ready to be spun and woven into fabric.

Loro Piana has collaborated with Dubai-based artist eL Seed who created a unique artwork that enveloped the Gift of Kings installation. The artist is known for his intricate and captivating compositions of traditional Arabic calligraphy fused with street art. This combination of ancient craft and modern vision resonates perfectly with Loro Piana’s philosophy, blending unique heritage, skilled workmanship and innovative textile technology.

The new Loro Piana store is now open at The Dubai Mall.

AS THE YEAR OF ZAYED COMES TO A CLOSE, A&E REFLECTS OF SOME OF THE ICONIC HAPPENINGS THAT HAVE CELEBRATED THE LIFE OF THE FOUNDING FATHER OVER THE LAST TWELVE MONTHS.

Sheikh Zayed bin Sultan Al Nahyan

2018 marked one hundred years since the birth of the late Sheikh Zayed bin Sultan Al Nahyan, the Founding Father of the UAE. To commemorate the occasion, His Highness Sheikh Khalifa bin Zayed Al Nahyan declared that 2018 would officially be known as the Year of Zayed. The past twelve months have seen celebrations, initiatives and events that have honoured the founder and celebrated his legacy and impact on the UAE. The Year of Zayed involved people of all ages, backgrounds and nationalities to celebrate the diverse communities we have living in the UAE, bringing everyone together to celebrate in a vast range of ways.

LOOK UP

A Guinness World Record was broken for the largest aerial projection in the sky. The record, set by Wasl Asset Management Group involved an 300ft aerial screen floating above the Dubai skyline. It was towed across the sky by helicopter, with a second helicopter projecting a short film about The Year of Zayed. The video used a combination of augmented reality tracking and live mapping. The presentation started at Skydive Dubai and passed across Dubai, over Zabeel Park and hovered over The Dubai Creek, before heading back to its original point. The screen could be viewed from as far away as three kilometres during the ninety-minute journey.

Sravya Nagalakunta, Grand Winner – The Indian High School, Dubai

ZAYED PAINTING CONTEST

The Zayed Painting contest on 31st March marked the end of a 12 day art exhibition. Aimed to strengthen the objectives of the Year of Zayed Foundation the exhibition featured works of art from children from over 100 schools across the country. The competition which was backed by Emirates Global Aluminium invited students from schools to create art pieces. Over 13,000 students took part. Chosen paintings from each school were selected to be displayed in a twelve-day exhibition where a panel of judges selected three winning art pieces. The top three prize winners were Sravya Nagalakunta from The Indian High School, Dubai (Grand Prize Winner); Joel Thompil from GEMS Winchester School, Jebel Ali, Dubai (2nd Prize Winner); and Maria Hana from The Pearl Academy, Abu Dhabi (3rd Prize Winner).The winners were awarded a cash prize and a crystal plaque, while ten finalists also received a special gift pack as well as having their artwork published in a book.

Founders Memorial

THE FOUNDER’S MEMORIAL

As an everlasting tribute to the late Sheikh Zayed bin Sultan Al Nahyan a memorial was inaugurated at the Abu Dhabi corniche showcasing an installation suspended from a 30-metre high cube. The installation was designed by Ralph Helmick and was a three-dimensional portrait of Sheikh Zayed. Named The Constellation, the piece is made up of 1,327 geometric shapes, suspended on more than 1,000 cables. The 30-minute inauguration ceremony which took place on April 22nd 2018 featured a 40-strong choir performing Allah Ya Dar Zayed, as well as arrangements of other traditional songs. The unveiling was attending by their Highnesses Sheikh Mohammed Bin Rashid Al Maktoum, Vice President of the UAE and Ruler of Dubai; Sheikh Mohammed Bin Zayed Al Nahyan, Crown Prince of Abu Dhabi and Deputy Supreme Commander of the UAE Armed Forces, and many other distinguished guests.

Zayed Happiness Van launch

THE ZAYED HAPPINESS VAN

A Happiness Van named after Sheikh Zayed Bin Sultan Al Nahyan began travelling the country in May. Visiting labour accommodations and camps, the Zayed Happiness Van has been handing out gifts to workers. The Dar Al Ber Society launched the van in honour of Sheikh Zayed’s contribution to bringing communities together and the legacy he has left behind for future generations. Using the tagline “because everyone deserves to be happy,” the van visited its first destination in Al Quoz where hundreds of workers queued to receive charitable goody bags containing food and snacks. Other items including shoes and fabric were also among the gifts that were distributed by volunteers. There was also a quiz that saw three workers winning vouchers including an air ticket home with Air Arabia.

Etihad Airways launches unique aircraft

SKY HIGH

Emirates dedicated ten of its fleet of aircraft to the late Sheikh Zayed with a specially designed mural on the aeroplanes. Five Airbus 380s and five Boeing 777-300ER planes were chosen for the project which has seen the message spread all around the world as the aircraft have travelled the globe this past year. Each bespoke design covered an area of 480 square metres on the A380 and 312 square metres on the Boeing 777-300ER. The designs took a total of 119 days to install. Meanwhile Etihad Airways unveiled their own aircraft displaying a unique design in memory of The Founding Father. The plane was launched under the theme of respect and was used for the sole purpose of conducting humanitarian flights for charitable organisations.

Zayed Sports Tournament

ZAYED SPORTS TOURNAMENT

The annual Zayed Sports Tournament was dedicated to the Founding Father of the UAE. The event is organised by the Armed Forces Officers Cub & Hotel and took place during the month of Ramadan. The tournament honoured the late Sheikh Zayed’s keen sportsmanship and his legacy of engaging communities. The Tournament featured nine different sporting activities. Over 2,750 athletes took part, participating in sports including basketball, football, shooting, swimming, judo, chess, volleyball and more.

Words of a Leader book launch

FOUNDING FATHER BOOK LAUNCH

The Department of Culture and Tourism – Abu Dhabi released a book titled “Words of a Leader – Sheikh Zayed Bin Sultan Al Nahyan.” The book was released to mark the birth centenary of the late Sheikh Zayed. Translated from Arabic it is also available in English, French, German and Spanish. The book contains a carefully curated selection of quotes from the Founding Father that celebrate his life. The quotes highlight the inspiration and leadership he gave to others.

YEAR OF ZAYED PERFUME

Saleh Al Hammadi Emirati owner of fragrance store Perfume Bay designed a perfume that would mirror the incense used by the late Sheikh Zayed. The formula is created from pure Oud and subsequently became the best-selling perfume in the store.

GET INSPIRED BY THE LATEST GIFTS AND ACCESSORIES FROM BURBERRY’S FALL/WINTER COLLECTION.

LEFT IMAGE:  The Small Leather D Bag, The Small Metallic Leather D Bag

RIGHT IMAGE:  The Leather D-ring stiletto

ALL BURBERRY

LEFT IMAGE: The Small Metallic Leather D-ring Bag, The Small Leather D-ring Bag

RIGHT IMAGE: The Leather D-ring Slingback Pump

ALL BURBERRY

LEFT IMAGE: The Medium Patent Leather Pin Clutch

RIGHT IMAGE: The Leather D-ring Slingback Pump

ALL BURBERRY

Fashion Director: Lindsay Judge

Photographer: Henry Pascual

THE THIRD EDITION OF DIOR LADY ART CELEBRATES FEMALE ARTISTS FROM AROUND THE WORLD.

Dior Lady Art returns, this time under the guidance of Creative Director Maria Grazia Chiuri. At Maria’s request this edition of the project saw only female artists chosen to reinterpret the Lady Dior Bag. Each of the eleven women were given the opportunity to create their own interpretation of the iconic bag which would represent their image and style.

First created in 1995 the Lady Dior Bag possesses the quintessence of the Dior spirit, its signature codes and savoir-faire. Its architectural lines are punctuated with charms in tribute to the good luck talismans Christian Dior was never without. The bag brings together beautiful materials to create a piece that is both timeless and daring at the same time.

The daring aspect comes from the ability to reinvent this bag and that’s just what the eleven chosen artists are doing with the Dior Lady Art project. Chosen for their unique style the ladies bring together different generations and different nationalities, with artists being chosen from as far afield as Colombia, Turkey. China the United States, France and Japan.

The artists were given the freedom to choose the fabric, colours, protective charms embroideries – every aspect of the bags in order to create something that reflected the imagination of each artist and fits in line with their aesthetic universe. Each artist chose a very different way to interpret the bag with a play on colours, materials, prints, textures – all keeping the bag’s aesthetic but giving it a unique twist.

Olga de Amaral © Greg Bleakney