Maison Margiela became synonymous with avant-garde fashion and radical deconstruction. stands as a pillar of innovation and mystery in the fashion world.
From its founding by Martin Margiela in 1988 to its current incarnation under John Galliano, Maison Margiela has consistently defied conventions, reshaping the boundaries of fashion. We delve into the rich history, pioneering designs, and influential figures that define this iconic couture house.
In 1988, Belgian fashion designer Martin Margiela founded his house, Maison Margiela, alongside his business partner Jenny Meirens. A graduate of the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp, Margiela worked under Jean Paul Gaultier before venturing out on his own, exploring the deconstructed style that was becoming popular in Europe in the eighties. Margiela began working out of his Paris apartment before opening an unmarked store in Paris soon after.
His brand quickly became known for its conceptual approach, emphasising anonymity, deconstruction, and a challenge to traditional fashion norms. There was a unique sense of anonymity to his designs. The garment’s labels were simple blank white pieces of fabric, for instance, sewn in to signify the brand. Distinct product ranges were given numbers as signifiers in no particular chronological order.
Margiela’s designs would shock and surprise audiences, and New York Magazine described the brand’s early shows as “perhaps more like art happenings than the thematic and operatic productions ‘80s Paris fashion is known for.”
Margiela himself remained quite anonymous, not bowing at shows, only taking a few interviews and insisting that all media was handled collectively by his design team. Many in the fashion media contended that the anonymity was a publicity stunt, although Maison Martin Margiela asserted that Margiela’s anonymity was a reaction to an overly commercialised fashion industry.
In 2002, Maison Margiela was acquired by the OTB Group, a holding company led by the owner of Italian fashion label Diesel, Renzo Rosso. In December 2004, Maison Martin Margiela moved into a new headquarters in an eighteenth-century convent in Paris’ 11th arrondissement. In 2006, the brand was invited by The Chamber Syndicale in Paris to showcase its first haute couture collection, a ground-breaking moment for the brand which showed designs unlike anything previously considered as haute couture.
In 2009, Martin Margiela resigned as creative director of the house, leaving the anonymous design team to continue to design the label, with no single creative director in place. At the time, CEO Giovanni Pungetti stated that “we want to stay avant-garde and provocative, but without a new creative director. It’s a challenge. We know this. We will probably make mistakes, but the most important thing is to learn from them.”
This anonymous approach continued until October 2014, when John Galliano, Martin’s former mentor, took over as Creative Director. Presenting his debut collection in January 2015, Galliano brought his theatrical and opulent style to the house, blending it with Margiela’s deconstructivist legacy. His tenure has revitalised the brand, maintaining its relevance and innovation.
The Maison Margiela atelier in Paris remains unlike any other. Designers work in white lab coats, a practice that emphasises the collective over the individual. This choice underscores Margiela’s ethos of anonymity, where the focus is placed on the garments rather than the creators. This anonymity extends to the runway shows, where models’ faces are often obscured by masks or fabric, allowing the audience to concentrate solely on the clothing.
Under John Galliano’s leadership, Maison Margiela continues to push the boundaries of fashion while honouring the legacy of its founder. The brand’s latest collections blend Margiela’s iconic deconstruction with Galliano’s opulent sensibilities, resulting in a unique and contemporary vision.
The Maison Margiela Artisanal collection, which showcases the highest level of craftsmanship and creativity, remains a highlight in the fashion calendar. The brand’s commitment to innovation and sustainability ensures its ongoing relevance in an ever-evolving industry.
This season’s collection celebrated Paris and the beauty of haute couture and attracted celebrities such as Kim Kardashian and Kylie Jenner to its front rows. The sisters have become synonymous with the brand and its hourglass silhouette, reigniting an elegance and appreciation of the female form in fashion. Other celebrities such as Rhianna, Miley Cyrus, Zendaya and Kanye West have also been revealed as fans of the brand, often wearing its avant-garde creations.
Maison Margiela’s story is a testament to the power of innovation and the courage to defy conventions. From its deconstructed designs and anonymous atelier to its influence on contemporary fashion, Margiela’s legacy is one of enduring impact and inspiration. As the brand continues to evolve under John Galliano’s visionary direction, it remains a symbol of avant-garde fashion, maintaining its status as a true icon in the world of couture.
