Dior presented a collection rich in history and heritage with its Cruise 2025 offering. Maria Grazia Chiuri and her team took inspiration from Scotland, mirroring Monsieur Dior’s first presentation in the country in 1955.
For the occasion, the brand returned to Gleneagles Hotel in Perthshire, the same location from almost 70 years ago, hosting VIP guests, and immersing them into the world of the brand. The collection was presented in the beautiful gardens of Drummond Castle, taking inspiration from the surroundings, history and heritage of the country.
The brand’s connections to Scotland date back as far as 1947, when Christian Dior named a haute couture ensemble Écosse, meaning Scotland in French. In 1951, he presented his spring-summer line in Perthshire, where he returned in 1955 to reveal 172 models wearing the collection at a charity ball held at The Gleneagles Hotel. Following that, in 1960, Christian Dior London – the House’s English subsidiary – staged a fund-raising show for two organisations at Scone Palace.
The Dior Cruise 2025 collection features symbols and motifs from Scotland, beginning with the unicorn and thistle which provide an unprecedented variation of the Millefleurs motif. These symbols are transposed into heraldic embroidery, recalling the savoir-faire of this exceptional technique. A map of Scotland adorns some of the models in this cruise line, sketching cartography of collaborations and cultural encounters deployed specially for this défilé, such as the tribute to tartan. Photographs from the spring-summer 1955 presentation are transformed into prints or employed as appliques on the edges of kilts or pea coats, in a kind of cinematic montage.
The looks merge contrasting elements, including the diverging textures of velvet and lace dressing the contemporary equestrian. Certain silhouettes feature exaggeratedly wide sleeves which, on white shirts, appear under little dresses with gathered skirts and bustiers resplendent with embroidery. The latter can be found on several dark, iridescent pieces that are sometimes adorned with pearls. Lace collars, in their turn, brighten up the black.
Also used in very light materials, tartan is the common thread running through this veritable celebration of the kilt, whether made directly in Scotland or reinterpreted. Not to forget dresses conceived in diverse lengths, as well as coats and capes with large hoods. Rain boots come and go. Small jackets adopt the grey of menswear fabrics and the iconic Bar jacket sports black velvet Brandenburg buttons.
This same velvet magnifies an evening gown, the fitted bust of which emphasises the oversized skirt. Feathery woven fishnet metamorphoses into long, lightweight dresses, embracing the mauve hue of nostalgia.
The collection was presented alongside an exhibition of the pieces and a brief history of the brand’s connection to the region. The show attracted international celebrities including Jennifer Lawrence, Anya Taylor-Joy, Lily Collins, Geri Halliwell and more.
