Brunello Cucinelli AW17 women’s collection: Urban Explorer

Natalie Hanson   |   14-03-2017

Exploration is the watchword of the Brunello Cucinelli 2017 Fall Winter Collection. It is an itinerary that combines existence and appearance for women who live a city lifestyle and admire the still of natural landscape.


The dialogue between feminine allure and sense of functionality is articulated throughout the collection: each fabric, yarn and colour is created through a symbiosis between traditional craftsmanship and technological innovation, between natural and artificial. In the era of cultural interconnection, movement is summarised in a moment, contexts are contaminated, exchange becomes continuity and union.

Inclusive combinations merge different worlds and re-examine the codes of luxury in a contemporary spirit. Military references, such as monili rank stripes and combat boots are matched with precious embroidery and tulle skirts. Tailoring explores the informal world. Monochromatic animalier embroideries alternate with winter vintage details on pullovers and outerwear, complemented by glamour feathers and metallic highlights. The soft punk influences of leather and shearling biker jackets are mellowed thanks to delicate and dusty nuances.


With curiosity and amusement, the woman explorer blends, experiences and crosses through different places, achieving a new eclectic harmony of styles.


Plant-derived nuances diffuse a serene and relaxed spirit, through shades of beige, cameo, hazelnut and cumin. These tones acquire strength in combination with yellows, ochre, Oxford blue and cerulean azure, or become dynamic thanks to the energising touches of orange, tarocco orange and arbutus.


A comfortable and seductive palette runs between soft pink, mid grey and golden highlights. Brilliant details and metallic reflections illuminate the ranges of khaki and olive green, interrupted by the most urban greys or illuminated by winter whites that extend the delicate range of neutrals.


Nuanced, inviting and tactile, knitwear plays an essential role in all combinations. The texture is enriched with precious monochromatic animalier embroideries, or wispy and cloudy effects on English rib and jacquard knits. Cashmere bouclé, printed alpaca, macro sequins and fluffy mohair blend with irregular and soft tricot knits.


Heterogeneous fusions of colourful yarn alternate with vintage winter-styled patterns, scattered with sequins, fur effects and monili embroideries that, like thin silver wires, give sinuous movement to the knitwear. The sports world is explored through sensual, seductive and feminine allure. The new V-necks transform the proportions: accentuated at the shoulders, losing depth to gain charm and femininity.

Opaque surfaces and more traditional knits feature references to the military world in a precious key: feathers, sequins, silk ribbons, studs, badges and chevrons in monili elevate the degree of the lightest-weight knitwear.


Noble fibres create precious fabrics, featuring soft and smooth or compact and couture surfaces. Lightweight wool, cashmere, alpaca and mohair blend with sports cotton and new technical materials. Animalier embroideries, soft contours and shaggy effects evoke the natural world and confer a sense of femininity to formal surfaces and masculine designs.


In addition to colourful crêpe wool, tulle, satin and lamé, velvet plays a key role throughout the collection featuring several precious versions. In beaver, fluid, jersey or corduroy variations, velvet gives a luxurious aesthetic even to the most casual garments for everyday styling.


Jackets & Coat

Coats offer generous over-sized volumes or follow straighter, figure-hugging lines, drawn in with belts and enriched by wide lapels of double-breasted military inspired jackets. The trench is the must-have item of the season, in utility drill or soft alpaca, reversible in cashmere cloth or combined with inner fur vests. Iconic biker and bomber jackets add the fundamental note for more urban looks.

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Outerwear and parkas take advantage of the shiny appearance of synthetic fabrics, and simultaneously experiment the fluid and soft effects of alpaca and cashmere. Down jackets are enhanced by retro fashion shapes and by “broad” stitches, featuring accentuated collars or wrap-around hoods. Luminous details, flashes, brooches, belts and feathers ennoble even the most formal fabrics.


Trousers & Skirts

Sartorial tradition meets contemporary style through an important wealth of volumes, materials and combinations. Noble fabrics and the most habitual elements, oversized volumes and slim lines alternate to establish a dynamic balance in urban styling. Animalier embroideries, camouflage and “dazzling fall” introduce texture, sparkle and femininity onto the masculine patterns of houndstooth and checks for skirts and trousers.


Stirrup leggings and slim trousers in technical materials are inspired by the world of skiing and added to the collection of fluid active pants, featuring extra-large volumes and a spirit that transcends the seasons.

Double or coupled fabrics, such as crêpe satin and wool canvas give a “techno” and modern appeal to full and pencil skirts, featuring utility pockets. Denim, in the new lamé version, renews the proposal of greys and blue chambray with retro-styled stonewash and a new baggy fit.



Fluid and brilliant fringed monili, quilted velvet surfaces, golden reflections and precious fur details complement the dynamic and vital exploration of the collection thanks to unique and handcrafted accessories.


The new bags offer a valuable interpretation of military style, blending feminine shapes and materials with military colours and inspirations. Small and functional, the new city wallets mix shining, metallic and pearl-effect looks with bronzed and gunmetal shades. Small accessories in faceted metal add a technical reference to the mountain world.

Mountain, biker and long boots for daywear give way to open sandals with long sparkling fringes for the evening. The vital colours of velvet and the warm appearance of flannel are diffused onto male-inspired loafers and modern Chelsea boots. The precious embroideries and refined effect of pony leather complete the harmonic consonance of the collection.


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