For her Fall/Winter 2022-23 Haute Couture collection for Chanel Virginie Viard reimagines classic codes of the house and gives them a modern twist.
In a continuation of last season’s collection, the Creative Director is once again inspired by artists and friends of the house who allow her to expand and experiment further on last season’s Haute Couture offering. “The group of artists who surround me, made up of Xavier Veilhan, Sébastien Tellier, Charlotte Casiraghi and joined by Pharrell Williams and model Vivienne Rohner, allows for this. As does the Haute Couture.” She said ahead of the show in Paris.
As she often is, Viard was inspired by the House’s founder Mademoiselle Chanel and the statement pieces that have defined the brand for almost a decade. “In this new collection, there are suits, long dresses like Mademoiselle Chanel imagined them in the 1930s: fitted to the body even though they have strong shoulders here, and pleated dresses like the wedding dress for instance. And lace too, inlaid, reworked, not embroidered, but repainted. The palette consists of bright green, khaki, beige, pink, lots of black and silver.”
The colour palette is soft yet colourful with new shades of classic tweed, and some key monochrome looks. Round shoulders, square backs, embroideries with geometric shapes and patterns are a nod to the 1930s, while also looking back to the 1970s, they resonate with the constructivism of a very “graphic” décor.
“I also like to break the graphic approach with a natural look. The clothes remain light, feminine, designed to be worn. I can’t see myself doing it any other way.” Viard explains.
The presentation was also an opportunity to showcase the new Chanel High Jewellery collection “1932” which pays tribute to the first and only ‘Bijoux de Diamants’ collection created in 1932 by Mademoiselle Chanel. Many of the looks from this collection were paired with the diamond jewellery for an elevated effect.
In accessories, the T-Strap pumps made a return as well as cowboy boots which further paid tribute to the House’s link to the Étrier de Paris equestrian centre which was the venue for the show.