We reveal front-row highlights From Day One of the Fall/Winter 2023 shows at Milan Fashion Week.
Alberta Ferretti opened the week with an exploration of the elegance and richness of women. Her Fall/Winter 2023 collection “After dark blooms” continues the Italian designer’s exploration of the richness and complexity of female psychology, translated into clothes designed to become objects of affection, tools of expression, and extensions of personality. With a colour palette of reds and rich blues, looks comprise strong, elegant silhouettes, for the bold and powerful woman who knows who she is and who she wants to be. These are looks for power-dressing, combining masculine and feminine elements as slip dresses are paired with wide-brimmed hats, sharp-cut tailoring sculptural heels and impeccable suits.
ETRO’s Fall/Winter 2023 collection by Marco De Vincenzo takes a journey back to the House’s roots, portraying the bohemian seventies style in new ways with layering and a mix of fabrics that work perfectly together. Titled “ETRO Radical” looks at new ways of constructing outfits, delving into the history of the brand but also writing a new chapter. The roots of Etro are in fabric and print: tartans, cravatteria motifs and, of course, paisley, all of which can be seen throughout the latest offering, but perhaps not as we have seen them before. There is a psychedelic element, with clashing prints and long billowy materials. Fringes dance along the hem of chunky polos and scarves, while applique gives argyle knit a three-dimensional charm.
Fausto Puglisi’s latest collection for Roberto Cavalli celebrates old Hollywood glamour and the DNA of the brand. Channelling retro feminism with a touch of vamp, Puglisi touched on archival references and gave them a modern-day twist.
“It all started with Delfina. There’s a chicness but a perversity to the way she twists FENDI, which is what I love.” said Kim Jones of his Fall/Winter 2023 collection for Fendi. He is of course referring to Delfina Delettrez Fendi, who became the designer’s muse for this season’s collection. Jones looked at how she wears her extensive FENDI archive and the ways she epitomises elegance in a chic, understated way. A clean silhouette is given a playful twist, often deconstructed, with the incorporation of menswear fabrics to create unique elegance. A monotone and pastel-hued colour palette is disrupted by flashes of bold pink and red. Swipe to see some of our favourite looks. “It’s deconstructed, but luxurious. There’s a little nod to punk, and my admiration for DIY, but moved on towards something chic,” explains Kim Jones. “The first day that Delfina walked into work, she was wearing blue and brown, and I thought she looked so great. There’s a chicness but a perversity to the way she twists FENDI, which is what I love.”
Stay tuned for more as it happens throughout the week…