Zegna kicked off Milan Fashion Week Men’s today with the virtual presentation of its Winter 2022 collection, designed by Alessandro Sartori.
The brand has recently entered a new era with a new visual identity titled: Our Road, and this collection firmly reinforces the Italian House’s journey from its beginning in 1910 to where it is today.
The Zegna road originates in the mountains and crosses Oasi Zegna, the free-access natural territory in Piedmont, Northern Italy. Known as 232, this road has been woven into everything the brand has done for the past 112 years and also defines this new chapter.
Beginning the new story with the Winter 22 collection Alessandro Sartori has set the tone for a new era of Zegna that holds its history at the centre but also looks deep into the future. “I keep looking at the world through the Zegna lens. The reality we live in today requires adaptability; it asks us all to be fluid. Translating this idea into clothing means building a language of shapes and textures that grows and consolidates over time, matching the needs of the moment. The notion of the hybrid is one I keep exploring because there’s progress in erasing staid categories”, says Alessandro Sartori.
The collection offers a contemporary silhouette that defines today’s modern man and takes into consideration the literal needs of dressing today. Function meets fashion with looks that are both comfortable and non-conformist.
Taking inspiration from the great outdoors, layering comes into play, while many pieces are adaptable, recognising the ever-changing environment of men today. Whether you’re relaxing in the mountains or heading to the office in the city, it is possible to have one carefully constructed wardrobe that applies to all areas of life as the lines of inside and outside is blurred.
The layering and the fusion of shapes and functions set the tone: trapeze-shaped coats are worn over taped, technical silk inner shells; ripstop anoraks are made of wool; fine leathers are cut into shirts bonded in cashmere, worn either alone or under blazers, while pullovers and thick jumpers are meant as outerwear.
The silhouette is fluid yet sharp, made of effortless sums of garments: tabarro coats and jackets, utilitarian jackets, parkas, anoraks and pullovers, trousers that taper at the hem. Collars, pockets and closures feature subtle details that bring movement to the surface making it integral to construction.
As is synonymous with the house’s desire to always be a leader in innovation and technology, an impressive array of fabrics including many #UseTheExistingTM designs re-work old materials in a new way.
Gabardine, scuba wool, technical silk, wool denim and the newly created Oasi Cashmere define the textures of layered looks that blend light notes of salt, frost white and slate grey with deep notes of ebony black and mahogany brown and accents of Zegna vicuna colour, vintage brass and aubergine quartz. The harmony of colours is broken up by a tie-dye and jacquard stripe that interprets the new Zegna signifier.
Padded, capacious bags, scuba boots and goggles add the finishing touch.