For decades, Givenchy has stood as the epitome of Parisian elegance, its legacy rooted in the refinement of founder Hubert de Givenchy’s timeless aesthetic.
Sarah Burton
Founded in 1952, the house, which became synonymous with the effortless sophistication of Audrey Hepburn, revolutionised couture by blending architectural precision with an innate sense of ease. Now, in a pivotal new chapter, the Maison welcomes Sarah Burton as its creative director—an appointment that will surely signal a return to craftsmanship, heritage, and a future-forward vision.
A History of Elegance and Innovation
Established in 1952 in Paris by Hubert de Givenchy, Givenchy was built upon the principles of purity, structure, and innovative femininity. Hubert de Givenchy’s close collaboration with Hepburn not only immortalised the brand on the silver screen but also cemented its status as a beacon of understated luxury. The house flourished under his direction, championing the ‘separates’ concept—allowing women to mix and match for an effortlessly chic silhouette.
As the years passed, Givenchy evolved under various creative leads, from John Galliano’s brief tenure to Alexander McQueen’s rebellious edge and Riccardo Tisci’s streetwear-infused aesthetics. More recently, Matthew Williams brought a modern, industrial-inspired take to the label, incorporating hardware-laden designs and a utilitarian attitude. Yet, as the house sought to reestablish its couture roots, Sarah Burton emerged as the perfect heir to Givenchy’s legacy.
The Arrival of Sarah Burton: A New Dawn
Best known for her transformative work at Alexander McQueen, Sarah Burton has long been revered for her ability to intertwine tradition with modernity. Her 26-year tenure at McQueen, where she served as creative director following Lee McQueen’s passing, cemented her reputation for blending meticulous tailoring with poetic, emotionally charged narratives. Under her direction, the house became known for its structured yet ethereal designs, fusing historical references with contemporary innovation.
At Givenchy, Burton’s arrival marks a return to the house’s original codes: precision, purity, and an unwavering dedication to craft. Her affinity for sculptural silhouettes and masterful draping aligns seamlessly with the legacy of Hubert de Givenchy, promising a renaissance of classic elegance. With her expertise in couture techniques, Burton is set to breathe new life into Givenchy’s haute couture division, ensuring that the artistry of the past is not only preserved but reinterpreted for the modern woman.
Reviving Givenchy’s Past for the Present
Burton’s debut collection for Givenchy was highly anticipated, with fashion insiders speculating on a return to refined tailoring, romantic gowns, and a heightened focus on fabric manipulation. The Spring/Summer 2025 women’s collection which debuted in March saw a revival of the house’s signature elements—exaggerated shoulders, crisp monochrome palettes, and strong hourglass silhouettes—reimagined through Burton’s singular, contemporary lens. “To go forward, you have to go back to the beginning. To me, that’s about the atelier. It’s the heart and soul of Givenchy,” the designer said in a statement ahead of the show.
Burton’s inspiration came from a collection of Hubert de Givenchy’s patterns that were recently discovered in a hidden cupboard at his home in Paris while it was being renovated. The brown paper packets proved to contain calico patterns from his 1952 debut collection, which he showed to the audience packed into his atelier. For Sarah Burton, it triggered a tangible connection with her own way of working: on the stockman, in fittings, between the studio and the atelier.
“It’s my natural instinct to go back to pattern-cutting, to craftsmanship. To cut, shape and proportion. It’s what I feel, how I work, and want to do.” Said Burton in the show notes. “ I want to address everything about modern women. Strength, vulnerability, emotional intelligence, feeling powerful or very sexy. All of it.”
Starting from the body up – from the imagery of the studio stockman, stamped GIVENCHY 1952- the rhythm of her collection evolves around tailoring, merging and counterpointing masculine techniques with feminine shapes. Through salons stripped back to their original beauty, a sense of powerful femininity is constructed, re-cut, played with, and enjoyed from all angles from a woman’s point of view.
Symbolism and atmosphere flow through the precision of modern couture-cut silhouettes. With strong shoulders and an hourglass waist, the definitive line of jackets and coats and two types of trousers walk in counterpoint with the free experimentation of shapes that happened in the studio. Bolts of fabric are spontaneously poured as backless dresses or tied as a skirt. Incendiary female-gaze sexuality charges covered-up fronts with bared backs and rivets the eye to the kick in the back of a black leather pencil skirt.
Echoes of Hubert de Givenchy are caught but not replicated. The Chantilly lace dresses are scissored-up to micro length, elongating the body. Fifties foundations take a provocative turn in bullet bras. Bracelet-length sleeves and cocoonbacks are captured in coats and jackets. His scarves and bows are translated into graphic, exploded leather scarves, knots, and the airy organza neckline of another Givenchy classic – a white shirt that acts, for today, as a dress.
In accessories, shoes, jewellery and bags are designed as objects of desire. Couture gestures are materialised in frou-frou tulle mules, twisted ribbon sandals, curvaceous cone-heel fetish pumps, ‘naked’ cutaway satin-strap heels and slice-toe ballerina flats. Patent leather square-toe loafers and masculine round-toe slippers walk with tailoring; high-heel latex sliced-toe boots zipper up the back and hug the calf. The Pinch and The Facet, two styles of bags, iterated as clutches and shoulder bags, with jewelled, and micro-metal evening clutches.
In an era where fashion houses often chase trends, Burton’s appointment is a testament to Givenchy’s commitment to authenticity. Her vision speaks to a clientele that values artistry over hype, seeking timeless pieces that transcend fleeting moments. By marrying Givenchy’s storied past with her own legacy of innovation, Burton is poised to restore the house to its rightful place at the pinnacle of French fashion.
