Dubai Fashion Week (DFW) began this weekend, setting the pace for the Ready-to-Wear Autumn/Winter 2025-26 season.
Indonesian label TOTON debuted at Dubai Fashion Week for FW25/26
From Zeena Zaki’s exquisite opening to Velvety Couture’s architectural homage, the runway at Dubai Design District (d3) became the canvas for a rich tapestry of couture, creativity, and cultural storytelling.
Day One
ZEENA ZAKI
Zeena Zaki launched the week with a masterclass in modern femininity. Flowing gowns, precision tailoring, and vibrant hues dominated the runway, each look exuding an effortless balance of grace and power. Her signature aesthetic—sophisticated, confident, and timeless—cemented her as a mainstay of the MENA fashion scene.
TOTON
Indonesian designer Toton Januar, presented by Makeover Indonesia, brought a deeper narrative to the runway, interweaving heritage Batik craftsmanship with sustainable innovation. Using upcycled textiles and unexpected materials like paper clay, the collection offered a thoughtful reflection on resilience and cultural identity.
MANEL
MANEL’s much-anticipated debut at DFW was an elegant nod to the designer’s Parisian roots. The ‘Paris Day to Night’ collection, designed for the modern cosmopolitan woman, blended velvet, jacquard, Chantilly lace, and satin in a palette inspired by Parisian winters. With an innate ability to transition seamlessly from daywear to evening attire, MANEL’s designs embodied refined opulence.
Closing the first day, Angelo Estera transported audiences through time and geography, drawing from his journey across Moscow and the Silk Road. A deep, regal palette of red, black, and gold underscored the collection’s fusion of Russian and Eastern elements, culminating in a mesmerising, silk-draped gown that encapsulated historical grandeur.
Day Two
The second day saw an exciting interplay between innovation and heritage, as new and established names captivated the DFW audience.
NIF GLOBAL LONDON SCHOOL OF TRENDS
NIF Global, in collaboration with the London School of Trends, spotlighted emerging Indian designers, showcasing 40 meticulously crafted looks that bridged luxury with sustainability. Richly embroidered textiles and handwoven techniques brought a cultural depth to contemporary silhouettes, affirming Dubai’s role as a global incubator for fresh talent.
Paolo Sebastian
Australian couture house Paolo Sebastian made its DFW debut with an intimate presentation of ethereal gowns. A symphony of illusion tulle, intricate embroidery, and fairytale influences transported onlookers into a dreamscape of masterful craftsmanship.
Victor Weinsanto injected his signature theatrical flair with ‘Cauchemar in the Kitchen’, an irreverent, Parisian-inspired collection that wove Maxim’s restaurant motifs into a haute couture fantasy. Art Nouveau embroidery and a carefully curated neutral palette grounded the playful aesthetic in timeless sophistication.
ANTOINE KAREH
Antoine Kareh’s ‘The Guardian Shadow’ collection was a striking meditation on light and darkness. Flowing silhouettes and layered contrasts captured the movement of shadows, adding an almost poetic depth to couture.
Velvety Couture
Closing the night, Velvety Couture paid homage to architectural genius Zaha Hadid, reinterpreting the flowing lines of the Heydar Aliyev Center into a breathtaking monochrome collection. Chiffon, taffeta, and velvet echoed Hadid’s organic forms, while intricate embroidery mirrored the precision of her architectural designs.
