These are the best looks and highlights from the Haute Couture shows in Paris earlier this year.
Giorgio Armani Privé
Giorgio Armani Privé revealed a collection entitled “Haute Couture en Jeu” (Haute Couture as play). The show notes described the collection as “Armani in its open embrace of different cultures and the joy with which it transcends boundaries to explore distant worlds.” It was undoubtedly a collection which revelled in delight. Key details included froth of lace, delicate embroidery, finely crafted appliqués and the twirling of thin braids that adorn the hair and graze the shoulders.
It was a wholly imagined journey from West to East: kimono-like robes, full skirts, mermaid dresses, petite bodices, long jackets and trousers that narrow at the bottom and airy and voluminous dresses. There was also a blend of exquisite aqueous tones – pale pinks, jade green, soft blues, gold flashes, midnight and royal blues – illuminated by the sparkle of embroidery, dematerialised by the weightlessness of lace and enhanced by the opulence of jacquard.
Indeed, as the house said in the notes accompanying the collection, “fashion is undoubtedly a serious matter for Giorgio Armani but can also represent play, evasion or a moment of suspension. Especially with haute couture, a space in which the designer can indulge in unexpected bursts of creativity.”
Dior
Classic cuts and a muted colour palette took centre stage for Maria Grazia Chiuri’s Haute Couture SS24 collection for Dior. The creative director explored the plurality of textures, supported by Isabella Ducrot, who created the show’s scenography. Both the collection and Ducrot’s creations centred upon the bewitching theme of “aura”.
As the show notes explained: “Like a bewitching Ariadne’s thread, the notion of “aura” infuses the entire Dior haute couture spring-summer 2024 collection dreamed up by Maria Grazia Chiuri. Exploring the plural beauty of textiles, the Creative Director has initiated a captivating, inventive dialogue with Isabella Ducrot, who conceived the show’s scenography entitled Big Aura: twenty-three disproportionate silhouettes are arranged on a grid of irregular black lines recalling warp and weft. A symbol of the aura and uniqueness suffusing each haute couture piece.”
Chiuri was also inspired by Dior’s iconic 1952 gown “La Cigale”, a sharply structured piece, which was originally created by the house’s founder, reinterpreting it for the new Spring 2024 season. Across the collection, there were also coats with imposing collars, wide skirts revealing exaggerated cut-outs, layering, pants, and jackets. Meanwhile, certain garments were in velvet, including a sumptuous feather cape paired with a dress in embroidered double organza. Despite moments of theatre, the collection overall was elegant, understated and very Dior.
Chanel
For Chanel’s latest haute couture collection, the house’s creative director, Virginie Viard, was inspired by the world of dance, and in particular ballet. The collection also marks 100 years since the house’s founder, Gabrielle Chanel, first designed pieces for the Ballets Russes of Léon Bakst and Sergei Diaghilev.
“I often think about dance; it’s an important theme at Chanel,” Viard said in the show notes. “The House is close to its institutions, to its choreographers and dancers, and we create costumes for the ballet. I have tried to bring together the power and finesse of bodies and clothes in a very ethereal collection, composed of tulle, ruffles, pleats and lace,” she continued.
Viard also paid particular attention to the humble button in this collection. Discussing this focus in the show notes, the house said: “The button eases the opening and closing of a garment. Thanks to buttons, women could rid themselves of everything that had prevented them from moving freely. Gabrielle Chanel treated buttons with the utmost respect. Like a jewel, it adds a touch of daring and sparkle to the unique allure of which she was both theorist and artisan.”
“A symbol of emancipation, Viard takes this jewel-button into the world of ballet and dance. Here, fashion, music, theatre and painting come together as physical poetry and, touched by grace or wonderment, the performers briefly escape the laws of nature,” the notes continued.
Across the collection, there were down jackets in tulle and hoods, while there were also references to contemporary culture, for example, through the style of heels presented in the show. There were transparent short straight skirts, long dresses, jumpsuits and capes embellished with embroideries depicting draperies, bows, illusion tulle pockets, lace belts, sequins, braids and flowers.
In another nod to the world of dance, the pieces in the show were also worn over white ballet leotards and tights. “For me, dance evokes all these stories and emotions that are close to my heart, and that I take such pleasure in handing down and recounting,” said Viard. The result is a passionate, heartfelt examination of Chanel’s past while unbuttoning the house’s steps into the future.
Schiaparelli
Schiaparelli opened couture week with an outstanding surreal-inspired collection. Jennifer Lopez and Zendaya were both in the FROW at the spectacular Schiaparelli show, as creative director Daniel Roseberry put forward a smart, Surrealism-filled theatrical collection.
His latest work confidently showcased the spirit of Schiaparelli, which the house’s founder, Elsa, established nearly 100 years ago at the height of the Roaring Twenties. However, this collection looks to the future of Surrealist design, as much as its epic history. There were metallic cyber-styled designs, a robot child carried on the catwalk and playful, futuristic shapes. Schiaparelli is most at home in the theatre of Couture Week, and this collection rooted home that point.
Vinyl materials juxtaposed with lush velvets, while oversized volumes were set against corsets. It was very much a collection of contradictions, which so perfectly matched. “
Of legacy and the avant-garde, of the beautiful and the provocative, of the earthbound and the heaven-sent. But as art (and nature) teaches us again and again, the things and ideas that seem diametrically opposed to each other can also combine to make startling
chimaeras, objects composed of familiar parts that, when united, create something unexpected and new.” The show notes read.
With this experimentation in creativity, Roseberry has surely reached new heights with this collection.
Valentino
For what turned out to be his final haute couture collection for Valentino, creative director Pierpaolo Piccioli, created a collection that’s deeply rooted in modern life and the needs of women today. Titled “Valentino Le Salon,” the brand’s Spring/Summer 2024 offering explored a “space of expectation and wonder, where dreams become realities through its specific rites and rituals,” according to the show notes.
Honouring tradition while also offering a new proposal of course, the collection honours both timelessness and modernism. Piccioli experiments with key pieces of the modern wardrobe. Considering every item individually but bringing them together in perfect harmony. Contrasts of colour and texture in every garment may at first seem jarring, but when see together, are so perfectly in shape with each other. “Outfits become paradoxical, colliding pragmatism and fantasy, differing volumes, abstract sensation. They evoke a freedom of expression synonymous with a love of true fashion.” The show notes said.
Contradiction is a running theme this season and that is particularly true for this collection which sees so many contrasts throughout. “Contradiction is inherent in Haute Couture – simplicity is complex, spontaneity the result of carefully considered gesture.” The brand said in a statement.
Piccioli also paid tribute to the home of couture and the Salones of Place Vendôme which traditionally became a melting pot for the world’s rich and famous. The show space was a recreation of one of these salons in a bit to capture the ambience of the past but bring it into modern times. A true reflection of how haute couture can be both modern and timeless.
Fendi
Fendi celebrates duality and futurism with its latest couture collection by Kim Jones. Discussing the house’s latest collection, Fendi’s artistic director of womenswear and couture said: “I was thinking about Karl Lagerfeld’s futurism with Fendi… In the collection, there is humanism at the heart of this future; there’s the body, the silhouette within the silhouette, the person and the handwork of the couture. The collection is about structure and decoration, where the two become indivisible. I wanted an idea of precision and emotion at once.”
Throughout the collection, there is a dialogue between what the house describes as the dualism of “poetry and reality.”
“From simplicity in geometry to the primal pull of croco, a ‘human futurism’ travels through the collection, conflating constants of the past to make the present and the future. Here structure becomes decoration and decoration, structure,” the notes which accompanied the collection said.
The collection began with a new, ‘Scatola’ silhouette (meaning ‘box’) and ended on the same, precision geometric pattern cutting.
Meanwhile, rich materials were used throughout the collection, from the finest cashmere and vicuna yarns to elevated rib knit dresses elegantly swaddle with knotted ‘Shibari’ harnesses integral to the silhouette.
The FROW included multi-award-winning actresses and Reese Witherspoon, along with Reese’s daughter, Ava Phillippe.
Elie Saab
Elie Saab’s Haute Couture Spring Summer 2024 collection Desert Rose revealed a tapestry of enchanting, feminine pieces across 64 looks. Feathery flowers, dazzling embellishments and silk designs took centre stage in his latest show. The designer is always proudly rooted in the Middle East region, with this collection inspired by “the magic of Marrakesh and of the mystery of the desert rose.”
Lavish textures combined with exquisitely sculpted lines capture the beauty of Marrakesh. Inspired by the sunrise in the city’s old town, pastel hues of blush pink chiffon and lilac blue crepe combine with warm glimmers of crystal rays. He imagines the sunrise through sandstone tulle passages, illuminating gilded coats woven from intricate metallic knits, silk thread tresses, and ornately engraved porticos. Magnificent archways open onto hidden courtyards with luscious canopies of feather flowers that sway into gradient capes, and dew-kissed florals that glitter and glisten across organza. Vibrant mosaics grace cascading fountains in organic motifs of curve-tracing corsets and twisting halter necklines that flow into colonnade skirts with illusions of layers.
The pulse of the city resonates through the lively street as the evening begins its ripple and pleat into shimmering lurex contours. Opulent aromas of amber and sandalwood linger in the air like sensuous satin that generously drapes into sweetheart necklines and an hourglass embrace. Dazzling constellations of sequin fringe cape sleeves and sinuously beaded mermaid tails trace an ethereal light trail to a veiled oasis. In the hidden heart of the casbah, the mythical Desert Rose materialises. Glistening golden foliage harmoniously arabesques into a royal bridal train that forever fades into a mirage of whispered time.
Giambattista Valli
For his Spring 2024 haute couture collection Giambattista Valli celebrated the beauty of followers. Guests arrived to a show space that was scattered with bouquets of roses and those same flowers could be seen throughout the collection which opened with a velvet body suit, edged with delicate white roses.
When flowers weren’t literally present, their volume, lightness and colours could be felt within each look in the collection. Shapes were sculpted through draping, pleating, and layering, while fabrics were placed with an air of lightness.
Tulle and taffeta had a huge comeback in this collection as they created oversized shapes that caught the air and lifted as they glided down the runway with long swishing trains.
Fresh roses were pinned into the model’s hair to complete the look.
Zuhair Murad
Lebanese designer Zuhair Murad showcased a mesmerising collection as part of Paris Haute Couture Week. Dubbed “A Tyrian Arabesque” the incredible collection features a mix of Arab, Roman and Greek influences.\
Pieces were constructed with meticulous detailing, including embroidery, metallic touches and beaded fringes. Murad was also inspired by the ancient people of Phoenicia for his collection, who lived in what would become modern-day Lebanon and who traded across the Mediterranean Sea. References to these seafaring people could be seen throughout the collection, as well as the on-set scenery.
Jean Paul Gaultier
Jean-Paul Gaultier invited Simone Rocha to make her haute couture debut for his eponymous fashion house in Paris this week. Rocha is known for presenting a subversive, sometimes dark take on femininity and womanhood – and she did not disappoint with her collection for Gaultier, which also took into consideration the codes of the house which the founder first established with the opening of his house in 1982.
Each season, a guest designer takes to the helm of Jean-Paul Gaultier, to reinterpret the founder’s spirit for a new season of haute couture. For this season’s collection, Rocha brought Gaultier’s playful provocativeness to the collection, through her own lens of femininity, the duality of which was presented through the craftsmanship of haute couture.
Rocha is the golden child of the fashion industry. She launched her eponymous fashion house when she graduated from Central Saint Martins 14 years ago.
There were nods to classic Gaultier pieces (think Breton stripes and sailor hats) mixed with influences from her own heritage (the Irish designer discovered that the founder had used traditional Irish crochet in his archive, which she brought back for her own collection with the house).
There were also Surrealist touches, such as earrings shaped like dangling garter belts and footwear with feathers and pearls. Overall, it was a creative, playful collection, which won over the crowd as well as Gaultier himself.
Tamara Ralph
The Tamara Ralph Spring/Summer 2024 Couture collection illustrates the evolution of the designer’s inspired new journey with her eponymous brand, anchored by the notion of time and its innate transcendence. “I am delighted to return to Paris for my sixteenth season of couture, and my second season under my namesake brand,” Tamara said at the time of the show. “Starting anew, and on my own terms, has been an incredible experience, and I continue to feel both honoured and joyous that I am able to do what I love most and share my passion with the world.”
The second collection in the designer’s new chapter of the brand very much embodies her new vision. It is “centred around the notion of bold femininity and uncompromising strength – whilst revealing new dimension and growth.”
The collection features bold, unapologetic designs that ooze femininity and glamour. Classic wardrobe staples are given a shake-up with feathers, embroidery and embellishment. The beauty if in the details with floral designers and hand-sewn messages appearing throughout. These looks will surely be coming to a red carpet new year this year!
Georges Hobeika
Maison Georges Hobeika put forward a Couture Spring 2024 collection which celebrates Arab women from across the region. The house described it as “a special love letter to the women and the culture that shaped them and still inspires them today.” The collection references “the glamour and beauty of Middle Eastern women, the joyful and creative aspects of the region’s culture, and the sense of compassion and care displayed throughout the Orient.”
The design duo behind the collection – co-creative directors Georges and Jad Hobeika – were inspired in particular by childhood nostalgia and the spirit of the ‘50s, ‘60s and ‘70s and the parties from the era. There were references to the glamour of Beirut in the ‘60s with models taking to the catwalk with coiffed hair, and an air of joie de vivre – as the house describes it “as if stepping out of the salon on their way to a party.”
Tunisian model Myriem Boukadida opened the show, stepping onto the runway in an incredible fuchsia and red sequined ensemble. The collection included playful details and colourful silhouettes throughout, capturing the spirit of the Arab world and providing a much-needed lens into the region’s fashion history and the people it represents.
Georges Chakra
The Georges Chakra Couture Spring/Summer 2024 Collection is a celebration of the extraordinary within the ordinary. Seamlessly blending the common with the mystical, veiled in surreal elegance, inviting viewers to explore the magic embedded within the realms of reality.
It features bold colours from pink to gold to red, reminiscent of a sunlit sky. Materials are full and flowing, creating volume and texture and thus ensuring that each of the gowns is a show-stopping piece.
Many of the looks feature metallics panels or areas, reiterating the magical mood associated with this collection. Each look has been perfectly designed to make an impact that won’t go unnoticed.
Tony Ward
Tony Ward’s Spring/Summer 2024 haute couture collection Golden Ratio celebrates the beauty of the colour gold. With a collection of evening looks that range from metallic silver to rich golden hues, the brand celebrates the royal hue with dresses in organic forms of pleating spirals, bold proportions and timeless shapes.
This season marks ten years of shows for the Lebanese couturier who made his Paris debut in 2014 and with that in mind, he wanted to recognise the golden force that brings us all together.
“With each curve and line, we pay homage to this ratio that shapes the chaotic beauty we witness around us.” The designer said in the show notes.
“Geometrical patterns are translated through intricate embroideries, nature’s divine allure, dancing threads replicating the human harmony, explosions of shapes unified into three-dimensional artwork, intersection of different forms & volumes, statement Edwardian sleeves, layers of un-matched materials…” He adds.
Rami Al Ali
Rami Al Ali’s Spring/Summer 2024 Couture collection, is a mesmerising ode to the enchanting world of Bedouin heritage. Each of the 30 pieces resonates with the soulful nostalgia of Al Ali’s cherished childhood memories, weaving a narrative that unfolds as a celebration of the demure elegance, mystique, and allure intrinsic to the Bedouin lifestyle.
The offering effortlessly moves between elegant full-length dresses, refined midi-length designs, captivating off-the-shoulder ensembles, impeccably tailored creations, and a breathtaking bridal masterpiece. The collection showcases a seamless fusion of sheer silks, organza, muslin, tulle, liquid satin, and Gazar, choreographing a graceful interplay of textures that captures opulence and refinement with elegance. The central theme revolves around the concept of lightness, intensified by the airy quality of these fabrics, enhancing the delicate essence of each garment. Every vigilantly placed stitch serves as a testament to the evolution of signature couture techniques, telling a story of craftsmanship and innovation that transcends the ordinary.
A refined colour palette, inspired by the Bedouin’s desert sanctuary, unfolds as a rich tapestry of sandy beige, deep brown, suede, soft pink, maroon, copper orange, and black. Carefully chosen hues create a sophisticated undertone that embodies timeless refinement. Diligent workmanship further contributes to the collection’s ethereal essence, elevating each piece with an aura of understated elegance.
